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Vagabonding

8月 2022 - 6月 2025
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フォローするカレンダー共有死ぬまでにやっておきたいことリスト
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  • 旅行者Vagabonding

    Çatalhöyük

    2024年6月1日, トルコ ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Anyone who knows me also knows my gaps in historical knowledge. For me, a visit to a normal museum has to start with the basics: what is it all about? What time period are we in? What will I learn?

    When visiting the Neolithic settlement of Catalhöyük, my lack of historical knowledge does not limit my ability to learn much this time.
    Overarching geopolitical contexts simply don't play a role here and even if I were asked for a date, it wouldn't matter if my estimate was 1000 or 2000 years off. :D

    What amazes me is the timeline of human civilisations shown at the beginning of the museum. All the great empires are represented here - you read names like Sumerians, Hittites, (they were once mentioned in the Bible, weren't they?), the Egyptian pharaohs, the Han dynasty, the Mayans, the Merkel era ... but they are all far off in the ‘near’ past.
    In the photo you can see the orange ray that describes the civilisation that Catalhöyük built. The Sumerians follow a few thousand years later and then all the names of the others far behind. :o

    At that time, people began to settle down and combined the familiar methods of gathering and hunting with sedentary eating methods. Animals were domesticated and crops were cultivated.
    At the height of the settlement, several thousand people lived here. Remarkable, if one remembers that the total estimated world population at this time is around 5-10 million people.

    The town was made up of many rectangular houses and had no streets. People moved from one roof to another and entered the houses via roof hatches. The life of the settlement probably also took place on the roofs.
    (I think this could be an inspiration for modern urban planning - we've already lost the streets to cars, so at least we could open up the roofs to pedestrians ;) )

    Inside, there were lying areas, a fireplace and the first household items - people decorated their homes and painted the white walls with symbols and pictures. The houses were reused several times and stood for an estimated 400 years - in between, people may have moved and then taken the remains of the deceased buried in the ground with them - an unusual custom from today's perspective, but people wanted to be particularly close to their ancestors back then.

    Back then, people must have really fought against superhuman monsters, because the murals always had a scale on them. ‘Animals on the wall are bigger than they appear!’ :O

    Inspired by the millennia-old tradition of sleeping in solid walls, I also find four suitable walls to set up my bed in tonight.    もっと詳しく

    翻訳をご覧ください
  • 旅行者Vagabonding

    Konya

    2024年5月20日, トルコ ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    I've made it as far as Anatolia!
    From now on I'm further west than ever before. I've been to Turkey before, but only to Belek, a tourist centre. The holiday was nice, but there was absolutely no cultural exchange to speak of, because we spent our days at the breakfast buffet in the morning, by the pool in the afternoon and in the bar in the evening. Times are changing. 😊

    Just had a nice chat with Mohamed at the hostel reception. I asked him about the ingredients for breakfast and he looked deep into my eyes and then said in a whisper: ‘Breakfast is - he cleared his throat - and got even quieter - bad’. He said he couldn't speak out loud and nodded his head in the direction of the surveillance camera. I nodded knowingly and went on my way. I found my favourite breakfast at Sofi's around the corner - a delicious omelette with cheese and vegetables.

    There's a Turkish proverb that says: ‘May the pears fly into his mouth roasted.’ It means that someone is very lazy. I'm not that lazy when I sit and work for hours in Ümit's Té, but the dough rings still fly into my mouth when they're fried. Every day the seller comes round and brings them to the table. It's marvellous.

    Shortly before I leave, I watch the whirling dervishes of Konya. They belong to the Mevlana order, which was named after the mystic Jalāl ad-Dīn Muhammad Rūmī (1207-1273).
    He is one of the most important Persian-language poets of the Middle Ages and a central figure of the Mevlevi order, a brotherhood of Sufis.
    They try to reach ecstasy and transcendental states by performing gyrations. One hand is always directed upwards to receive the divine blessing and the other hand points towards the earth to distribute it. Today, however, nobody goes into ecstasy.

    What I find quite funny in Turkey is that I receive a text message from the government every few days. Sometimes it's congratulations on Mother's Day, Ramadan or sporting events, and once there was a request to donate blood and an invitation to a wedding.
    I didn't go to the wedding because I thought it was inappropriate to turn up without knowing anyone.
    I didn't go to the blood donation either. I have a big heart but there's always not enough blood in it. 😛    もっと詳しく

    翻訳をご覧ください
  • 旅行者Vagabonding

    Beyşehir

    2024年5月14日, トルコ ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    I've been eating apples with walnuts for a few days now. The huge mountain of food is slowly diminishing and I can also treat a few people to something healthy from Aunt Şükriye's food bag.
    The place to sleep in Beyshir is great. I drive here every evening and pass the dog packs that sound the alarm every time I appear on the horizon. Day by day, some of them become more trusting because they have realised that sometimes there is some cheese. One remains stubborn and continues to bark, while all the others scurry around me wagging their tails.😮‍💨

    Beysehir is home to the best-preserved wooden mosque. It was built in 1296-1299
    by Esrefoğlu Süleyman Bey during the rule of the Seljuks and is definitely worth a visit. The swallows liked it too, they happily chased each other in it.

    At night, my tent is lit up by a car headlight and I stick my head out of the tent.
    I don't understand the words and I can't make sense of the gentleman's intention. I offer to pack up my tent, which he firmly denies and gets out.
    He shakes my hand and introduces himself as Suleyman. After an invitation to çay, he drives on to the lake. It's funny - I suppose I would have been chased away in Germany.    もっと詳しく

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  • 旅行者Vagabonding

    A Day with Aunt Şükriye

    2024年5月12日, トルコ ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today I was invited for tea and more at breakfast. A friendly lady appeared behind me and spoke to me. She wanted to know if I wanted to come round for a cup of tea. Conveniently, she lived right next to the playground. So she was able to show me directly where I needed to roll to after breakfast. No sooner said than done - I was now sitting outside her house on a small bench. They had even laid out an extension cable for me so that I could work 😄 but I found it more exciting to talk to the family, watch the birds they had there and everything around me and let the day come to me.
    Instead of work, it's çay and entertainment today.
    Yasin takes a look at the bike and when I tell him that it needs a bit of repair, he won't let me stop him. 🛠️🔩The kickstand is fixed, everything oiled. The lamp, which has been broken for four months, gets a bracket.
    They won't let me spend the night in the tent and a friendly neighbour offers me an empty flat.
    Before I leave, Yanis and his mum come out of the kitchen with a large food parcel and strap it onto my porter. Fruit, sweets, walnuts (which is fine, I still have the hammer I was given), a bag and a rain jacket. 🥰
    Shortly before I leave, a pair of chicks hatch. Tiny, these little quails.

    I roll out of the city with Yasin - he on his Mondial, me on my bike. We take a look at his apple trees and I taste ripening almond kernels for the first time, which are still liquid in their green skins.
    He also has an apple cold store and we take a look at the huge cold rooms in which tonnes of apples are stored. He gives me a big bag of apples which I somehow manage to get on my bike and then roll off into the distance. I don't know how the bike carries it all, but it rolls.
    Gelendost covers about 20% of the Turkish apple requirement and today about 3000% of my daily requirement 😁

    I roll and roll and can hardly get the laughter out of my face at my first break. I manage to save about 100 bees from swimming and finally find my personal guardian angel Ramazan, who has stopped to make sure I'm okay and don't need any help. Germans are like brothers to Turks and he offers to help me with any problems, from finding my way around to official matters and difficult situations.

    I am not a tourist here, I am among friends.    もっと詳しく

    翻訳をご覧ください
  • 旅行者Vagabonding

    Sagalassos

    2024年5月9日, トルコ ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I'm standing on the Lower Agora, one of the city's main squares, and somehow I can't comprehend that this place was supposed to have existed thousands of years ago.
    The first settlements in this area date back to 8000 BC and Hittite documents point to a similar mountain settlement around 1400 BC. At the time of its conquest by Alexander the Great in 333 BC, the city was already in full bloom.

     People have lived, loved and hoped here. Children ran through these streets playing. Traders sold their goods, festivals were celebrated. All that remains are stones and broken pieces.

    I have visited a few archaeological sites but the size and condition of the site is impressive.    もっと詳しく

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  • 旅行者Vagabonding

    Hospitality

    2024年5月8日, トルコ ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I have not yet reached my stage for the day and am stopped on the road. I don't miss the invitation to meet Ali and his family and I'm already standing in front of the house and enter.

    Everything about the flat is exciting - after all, it's not every day that I get a glimpse into their private lives. As is usual in mosques, the entire floor is carpeted and shoes are left outside the door. The furnishings are sparse, in contrast to the usual European houses and flats, which seem overcrowded to me. Everything is very functional and it seems as if the practicality of things is decisive.
    The farmhouse dates back to an earlier time, as you can see from the small window frames.

    There is no furniture in the hallway - in contrast, in German hallways there is always a place for the landline telephone. Rural areas seem to have skipped this technological step and gone straight into the mobile phone age.
    There is exactly one socket in the wall in the corridor and as I will be using the translator many times today, I leave it charging. It's at chest height and the mobile phone cable doesn't quite reach the floor, so we leave it dangling and go into the kitchen.

    It has a square floor plan, an estimated 16 square metres, and I immediately notice the fire pit, which is actually in use. Next to it I discover a bag of animal dung to light the fire. In the corner are old paint buckets that now have all sorts of other contents. There is a small kitchenette with a washing machine and a sink.
    A few pictures of family members and ancestors hang on the walls and there is also a picture of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk - fitting, as he is regarded as the father of modern Turkey.

    We sit on the floor with a large tray of bread, butter, cheese, eggs and vegetables in the centre and enjoy our meal.

    Then we take Ali's electric cargo trike to his garden. He shows me all the fruits growing there and teaches me their names. We record a few videos for his social media channel.
    I'm encouraged to eat all the fruit. Everything tastes sour to bitter 😂 (especially the green almonds, of which I have only ever tasted the core in its final form).

    In the evening, I spend time with his father, who watches a bit of telly with me. Wow. I don't understand the language, but pictures are worth a thousand words. In Germany, some things are not shown in too much detail for good reasons, but for this news channel there's no stopping a motorbike accident being shown. The video is too short, the narrator hasn't finished yet. So it is shown again. Then again in slow motion.
    In case anyone missed it, the accident is shown again, enlarged and with a huge arrow so that nobody misses the impact. 😐

    Then the family arrives and we sit together on the floor in the large living room and eat. A large dining cloth is spread out again and there are lots of small bowls of goodies, bread and soup, vegetables and the familiar green almonds, which taste much better with a little salt.
    We have a great evening (especially with Cemi, the local imam, who could also pass for a comedian with his witty manner). 🤭

    I feel like part of the family - and as I lie in bed in the guest room, my eyes quickly fall shut after this eventful day.    もっと詳しく

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  • 旅行者Vagabonding
    1
    2

    The bee-eaters of Burdur

    2024年5月4日, トルコ ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Well, well - it can be fun in the big cities after all! Burdur definitely deserves a few more days of attention. The place I found by the lake is teeming with rare and common birds and is a beautiful piece of nature. Here I come across the bee-eater, which has long been on my ornithological wish list. A beautiful animal.
    Near the town hall, I enter Mustafa's café and find a great place to work and watch the local Rummikub games at the same time 😀
    Next door is Hassan's snack bar, which conjures up a delicious breakfast for me, and I have a great chat with him.
    A few days go by - I pack up the tent in the morning, eat breakfast, and commute to work in the city. I work there for a few hours, have a chat, pack up, do the shopping, and roll back to a spot by the lake.
    One day, Hakan, Hassan's brother, comes up to me and taps me on the shoulder. He holds out his cell phone to me and I read: "Aren't you tired?"
    He taps his cell phone again: "Why don't you go for a walk? There's a park over there. Take a break and after that, you'll have new thoughts again." Wow. I take this tip - and also his later tips
    for other places of interest - with thanks.

    Another day, Hassan and his son help me to organize a great tablet within a few hours. The next day, I sit down with the salesman who helps me set it up. We have a small breakfast with tea and while I familiarize myself with the device, he is available to answer any questions and reads a bit of my travel blog =D
    I haven't had such a relaxed purchase in a long time - cheers to this Ottoman business tradition.

    It's time for me to move on and Hassan wants to prepare another breakfast for me tomorrow. "I'll fry some meat for you." ( he knows I'm a vegetarian )
    I reply: "Okay - hide it under the eggs and in the vegetables" - and we both laugh.    もっと詳しく

    翻訳をご覧ください
  • 旅行者Vagabonding

    Short Stopover in Çeltek

    2024年5月1日, トルコ ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I've already swept past the café when I hear a friendly 'Merhaba!' from behind and, after a U-turn, sit down with the gentlemen drinking tea on the veranda.
    Among them is the muhtar, the head of the village community.
    We have an interesting conversation and at the end I take a nut hammer with me as a souvenir - the hospitality here is amazing!    もっと詳しく

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  • 旅行者Vagabonding

    Three days of Highlights

    2024年4月26日, トルコ ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The forest of Karamanlı is exactly what I was looking for: an oasis of peace, a patch of nature and not too far from the city. Today I set up camp for the next few days and will be working a lot again.

    Day 1
    I roll into town. According to Openstreetmap, the place is a wasteland - not even the streets are correctly mapped, not to mention the supermarkets, banks and restaurants. Perfect for me, as there's a good chance that no tourists will stray here.
    I mark a few important points on the map and look for a place to work. I quickly find a café in the centre, but it doesn't look quite right - it's almost a bit too new and I'm looking for something more shabby, some small place with two or three tables or something. Well, after all there are tables with Rummicub all over the room so I stay.
    The first Çay is quickly ordered and a table is placed against the wall with the power socket. Here we go!

    The heavy bike in front of the door is a real eye-catcher here and I watch the prospective customers with amusement from my vantage point.
    Every now and then I am greeted in a friendly manner, approached a few times and then invited for tea. At first we exchange only with a translator, then Mustafa joins me and we switch to English.

    People come and go and are briefed, followed by countless rounds of Çay. I feel really involved, almost like being with friends. In the evening, I give a little guitar concert and then explain that I'm going to disappear into the forest to spend the night, which is greeted with amusement by the crowd.

    Day 2
    I enter the café. Hamdi, the owner, is delighted and arrives with the first cup of tea. He asks if the night in the forest was good. 😄
    I work while Ali, the café owner's father, pushes his grandson around the room on his tricycle.
    In the early afternoon, most of yesterday's group are back again.
    The boys teach me a new version of Rummicub and one Çay follows the next (you have to know that the glasses are really small!).
    In the evening, I set off again - some of them start giggling again because I'm going into the forest - and one of them warns me about the wild boars. I take the warning in my stride and reply that I usually go through the forest singing so that the animals notice me. General laughter follows. 😄
    The sun has been gone for a while and I only reach the edge of the forest in the twilight. I can just see a few small ones and two fairly large shadows and hear the animals panting. 😨
    I slowly hurry backwards and continue to sing - for the pigs and myself.

    Day 3
    Today is anything-can-happen day. It's not something I decide - it just happens - the great experiences often come all together.
    Today I HAVE to do laundry. The trousers already smell a lot like a cuddled street dog and there are hardly any unworn textiles left.
    So in the morning I wash the clothes by hand, hang them up in the woods and drive into town.

    There, I am welcomed by Hamdi with the first Çay and get to work.
    The teacher Musa comes into the café and shows me round his school. He shows me the staff room, the meeting room and introduces me to his colleagues and then - the absolute highlight - to his class. The kids are just as excited as I am and are simply beaming. It's a great feeling to stand in front of such a group of young people. If I had more language skills now... that would be great.

    We are back in Hamdis Té. The clientele has changed once and new conversations arise. Mustafa comes by and we take a trip to the reservoir and skip stones.
    In the distance, you can see the cut-up hilltops that now characterise this region. Marble has been mined here for a few years now. Some companies have bought the mining rights and are now cutting the precious stone from the rocks - to the detriment of agriculture and the inhabitants.

    We sit back down at a table in Hamdi's establishment, the hub of activity here in Karamanlı. A new face joins the group: Mori, an energetic farmer, wants to show me his land - and off we go.
    We drive along the country lanes in his old Ford Transit and he tells me about the crops he grows and shows me how his fields are irrigated. He offers me a cigarette, which I refuse as a non-smoker.
    Musa explains to him in Turkish that I am also a vegetarian.
    I add: "Ben eğlencenin freniyim", which means something like:
    "I'm the buzzkill."
    We all laugh.    もっと詳しく

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  • 旅行者Vagabonding

    Beyköy, Turkey

    2024年4月20日, トルコ ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    I actually wanted to go to a different Beyköy, namely the smallest village in the region with only 25 inhabitants. The Beyköy I ended up in even has two cafés, making it far too urban for my taste. 😤
    I give it a go and order a çay while I make a note of my recent experiences in my diary.
    Ha! It takes less than 10 minutes before I'm involved in the first conversation. 👍

    "Bonjour monsieur" someone calls over to me. 😳
    In no time at all, I'm sitting at the next table and the Çay loosens our tongues. The conversation picks up even more speed when Ali, who lives in Stuttgart and speaks German, joins us. A short stay turns into a two-hour conversation and my desire to master the language better for my next visit grows 😊.    もっと詳しく

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