Geoinformatiker. Etwas Banane im Kopf. Für jeden Spaß zu haben. Hauptsache raus ins Gebüsch. Read more Braunschweig, Deutschland
  • Day 30–33

    Rivers of cocoa

    December 5, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    At Matema beach I relax from this intense vacation. While driving here I notice dense forests of cocoa trees. Interesting! Yet another thing I have to investigate further 😏. Next to the road I ask a random mister "Hey, sir! You're involved with this cocoa?"

    I must have some kind of intuition for meeting just the right people. Baraka turns out to be a voluntary teacher, teaching young (orphaned) kids basics before they get into primary school: independence from "the system" and self-defense 😃! Prior to that, he has been village executive officer. He teaches me the fundamentals of coca processing and fetches fresh cocoa for me which I can try to ferment and dry myself. The white flesh around the beans is very tasty! Reminds me of "guanabana" fruits of Venezuela. Together we also find a mama who sells already fermented and dried beans to cooperatives, of which I acquire 2-3 kg. Fermentation of the beans takes around 7 days whereas drying requires 3-4 additional days in the current sun. Afterwards, the beans are ready for roasting and post-processing either into chocolate or powder with separated cocoa butter. The whole process is indeed extensively complex, involves a lot of time, heavy labour and many resources. If you tend to buy a bar of chocolate in Germany for less than a Euro, please ask yourself if this is a reasonable price? It can never be!

    Baraka invites me to stay for lunch with his family and we go hiking up the valley to Matema waterfall which is prettier than expected. It looks like a river of milk flowing down the rocks 🤤. Later, I visit the barber and get a new shirt tailored from Tanzanian kitenge by a nice old lady.

    The good thing about the rainy season is that you can spend a whole day just watching the game of weather. And this is what I do the following day (and night).
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  • Day 29

    Vehicle documents cleared ☑️

    December 4, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    After the crater hike I spontaneously decide to stamp in my new vehicle customs documents at the Malawi border in the afternoon. A really nice and forthcoming customs officer makes my day! Within little time and with much less fees involved than expected, I am ready to go. Lucky day 😁!Read more

  • Day 28–29

    Geothermal Firlefanz

    December 3, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I wanted to hike up the crater rim of Mount Ngozi to get a view on the inner lake already in 2021, but by then the weather didn't allow. This time I don't care. My whole previous week was nearly dry and thus, if now there is rain, fuck the rain.

    Arriving in the rainy evening 😅, I plan to quickly drive up to the informal campsite, which is to be situated in a forest clearing from where the trail starts. Surprise! This campsite apparently won the lottery and has been upgraded to a "Geothermal Project" site, meaning, it is becoming a 70 MW power plant soon (by February 2024). What the ... how is this possible? This is a damn natural forest reserve! Officially protected by documents, signatures and stamps! And I am supposed to pay 10 $ for it being "conserved"! My romantic dream of an authentic bush night, surrounded by pristine, juicy, dripping forest, vanishes in an instant. All these colourful machines of steel do not radiate any of the expected sexiness to me. But probably to the government. There is a guard who just shrugs at my comment and I simply drive back a kilometre along the access road to pitch my awning directly next to the road, at least being surrounded by this very forest of desire. This road is a dead end. Nobody will use it at night. Privacy guaranteed.

    Not. I prepare dinner, it gets dark, the rain stops, I sip on my red wine from Dodoma region and listen to the forest sounds when suddenly something huge drops from the heavens onto the road just next to my car. Woah 😳! I switch on my headlamp. A fat owl, grabbing something from the road! And up she flies on a branch opposite of me, starring at me. I politely switch off the light. Now is her turn of the night. I already had my fun. This is her forest. I better behave.

    Next, a motorbike appears, with three guys and three backpacks. The site supervisor, arriving Sunday evening to start his working shift of the coming week. He and his fellows sleep at the site in a wooden hut. He invites me for a chat in the morning. Next, an unlit random guy comes walking by, carrying a tremendously big bag on his head. Smiling and continuing. Strong guy! Finish. No more interruptions follow.

    The morning hike develops as expected. Wonderful forest with Sykes's monkeys, many flowers and many spiders for breakfast, which like to span their webs across the narrow path. No rain! Shortly after 9 I arrive on top of the crater rim. Splendid view down on the lake, aye!! A few minutes after me this yesterday evening's strong guys appears. He comes up jogging, completely wet from sweat, greets me and jumps over the crater rim, down into the steep thicket. Wäh? Is there a path down to the lake 🤔? "Yes" he shouts from already far away. Okay, challenge accepted! I go after him and find myself rather climbing down 200 m, holding on roots of trees and crawling under branches, finally getting nicely dirty 🤓! Shortly before reaching the bottom he passes me jumping upwards again. Down there is less spectacular than expected. A lake, surrounded by a green wall. Time to climb back!

    In the worker's camp I talk to the guys, now 4 of them, and share my coffee. During me returning, this sporty machine guy went into the forest for felling some firewood trees which he now comes carrying on his shoulders (our European wood is nothing compared to this dense, heavy tropical timber!). I learn that he performs our crater hike every morning, sometimes twice a day if work allows 💪. He cannot sit still. While we talk, he begins chopping the wood ...
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  • Day 27

    Abandoned beauty of a road

    December 2, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I decide to take a "seasonal" side road for further surveying of these absolutely gorgeous mountains. Even after yesterday's heavy rains the seasonal aspect would not have been a problem because after a while the road deteriorates to a well-overgrown and thus stable single trail. Strange. You still see its attempt of wanting to be a "real road" but that must have been years ago! It is completely abandoned and I start to ask myself, why? I have to leave the car many times to assess the drivable surface ahead. According to the map, a bigger river crossing might cause troubles. But when I reach the bridge, it is still in top condition! Perfect spot for a lunch break.

    But then, behind the next hill I learn the "why". In a rather inconspicuous location the path has been underwashed. People have partly repaired the damage on one side with wooden trunks but the wood is very loose and slippery. Additionally, to the other side the "crossing" consists of soft soil which gives in when walking over it. Deeply underneath there is now a stream flowing. The whole crossing offers a width of 2 m and my car's track width is about 1.80 m. With the loose wood I have no room to maneuver. If one wheel slides off, the game is over and I get stuck in a place where nobody can help me out 🫤.

    Half an hour later a farmer appears and tells me that it will be impossible to cross with my car. Usually, locals say that everything is always possible and especially then it is not. Now I feel supported in my decision.

    I turn back and enjoy the challenging track, the pretty landscape of hilly farmland, the low clouds and even a distant glimpse on the lake which I did not notice when coming from the other direction! Yet again I found a wonderful and remote place where probably not many travellers have been before.
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  • Day 25–27

    Civilization

    November 30, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    No, I don't mean the computer game. I ... ehm ... stop! I *do* mean the computer game. "Civilization VI" to be precise, which features one type of game victory – "through religion" – where you send out missionaries and priests to convince other civilizations in the game's artificial world to believe in your word of truth.

    So, here I am, in a diaconical guesthouse, being successfully converted by two young German social volunteering ladies to be theirs now. I did not introduce myself as Jesus, by the way.

    In the afternoon, a local friend of them teaches us how to bake traditional wheat bread which withstands long journeys without moulding. He presents to us fancy whole-grain flour for which he first had to buy grains and then go to a mill. You cannot easily find it in shops. When mixed with water, it sticks surprisingly quickly (I am to some extent an amateur bread baking evangelist). We then bake it in a pot, wrapped in a freshly cut banana leaf and heated from both sides by charcoal. Great scent emerges! I get a full half of it, but the girls can keep the flour (they should breed a highly potential sour dough with it 🤤!).

    Previous to that, I already felt my stomach rebelling slightly. Something must have been wrong with my lunch in town. Now, after baking: lack of appetite, followed by extensive surveying of my accommodation's bathroom. Oh my holy mightiness, why do I deserve a *squat* toilet now? But, finally, all the training of my past bush days pays off. My thighs are steel and will probably not fit into my freshly tailored linen pants tomorrow.

    And here is where the yet untouched bread joins my game. With small sips of masala chai and chunks of this crunchy tastiness, I manage to cure my body back from shaking chills to the energy overdose required to compose these introductory lines of the Third Testament. And off I slide into the night.

    Victory? No. At midnight, some greater force (in my stomach) decides that the game of lunch digestion is not yet to be finished 🤢. But the following morning I rise again like a reborn!
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  • Day 23–24

    In Liunji I begin to understand

    November 28, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We arrive. She falls onto her knees, kissing my hand and thanking me for the ride 😅. I get introduced to Leo, the young security guy with the only village moped, and decide that staying here in the village could also be a nice option. But nobody speaks English. With hands and feet, the base of my intention is communicated. Still, I have to wait many phone calls until things proceed. I am handed the phone where – for the second time this day – a guy asks me about my purpose and tells me that I should have registered in the district office before coming to Liunji. What is going on here 🤔? I explain to him the idea of being a tourist and that his claim is ridiculous. How should foreigners know to register anywhere in advance? Finally, Leo leads me through fields of coffee bushes to meet the village's chief. A young, calm and fascinating person with authoritarian aura. I am granted permission to camp next to the dispensary.

    In the dark, during my dinner preparation, Oscar arrives on a motorbike. A talkative boy who – in a loose conversation – manages to interrogate me thoroughly, asking about every item around my car and … about my purpose of coming here 🙄. "I just looked on my map and thought that it might be beautiful here! I am innocent of whatever you accuse me!" Only now he tells me that he is the village's executive officer. With a mischievous grin he asks "And you are sure you didn't come here for the minerals?" 🤦‍♂️. So, that’s the reason for all this creepy suspiciousness in this mountain region!

    The following morning, we have an official gathering where I am supposed to be introduced to some other persons in charge. But nobody apart from Oscar and the ladies from around the small market square appear. I share my favourite Tanzanian coffee brew with them. In turn, I am asked if I wanted to try their "bamboo juice". For sure! A cloudy, watery drink, sour, sweet, slightly sparkling. The girls start to giggle. It contains alcohol! After a regular-sized mug I already feel dizzy and this is where I notice that the ladies are sharing a two- or three-litre plastic bucket of the same "juice" (Ulanzi). Alright, let's get drunk at 07:30 in the morning! This also explains why all the ladies in the previous villages where laughing and going wild when I jumped out of the car in search of lunch. By noon, they must have been thoroughly drunk already!

    Oscar turns out to be a splendid lad and spends half the day hiking with me around the hills and introducing me to the secrets of his village. I see the coffee tree nursery and get shown how they extract their bamboo juice. The first time in my life I see yams plants, we visit avocado, cassava, maize and beans farmers and I learn that they keep their cattle mainly for natural manure production. "It's much better than all artificial fertilizers" Oscar proudly states, pointing me to a pit where all sheep and goat poo is collected for later use on the fields. They also keep happily grunting pigs in wooden cages. After harvest, the coffee pulp is reused as fertilizer as well. Aye, what a beautiful place this is! Descending down to the lake is not an option anymore because a round-trip would take a whole day and massive cumulus nimbi are accumulating above us. My new family demands taking a picture in front of my mobile home and with a half-broken heart I continue my journey into the unknown void.
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  • Day 23

    Pass to Liunji

    November 28, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Another beautiful track up the Livingstone ridge with views along a juicy valley down to the lake. Should I camp here already? It's a bit windy and so I decide to descend in direction of the village of Liunji. Maybe I find a calm spot on the way? It turns out to be one of the most beautiful and crazy roads so far! So steep that I can only proceed with low range gears 1-3. In a corner, an older lady with a huge cabbage bag on her head signals to me that she would desperately like to get a lifti (taxi) down to the village. Hmm, I did not plan to go all the way to the village but, okay, I can still return. And this is where Liunji takes me in.Read more

  • Day 23

    No road to Makonde

    November 28, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    I try my best to get a glimpse on lake Nyassa. From top of the Livingstone mountain ridge the lake opens in front of me. Or, at least the misty sky reaches farther down than expected and blends neatly into the water, forming an infinite horizon. That must be it!

    Unfortunately, my attempt to drive down the incredibly steep slopes is boycotted by roadworks 🤷‍♂️.

    During the last days I noticed that people are different in this area. They are skeptical, don't approach me, don't try to talk to me. In one village after lunch an executive officer appears and asks me for my
    purpose of coming here. "Hmm, tourist? No purpose?" She isn't able to understand that I found myself in this place just out of intrinsic motivation. I should have registered in the district office an hour drive away from here. And I should have brought documents and permissions for moving around here. What the heck?
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