traveled in 19 countries Read more Elsfleth, Deutschland
  • Day 283

    Chandra Tal

    June 8, 2018 in India

    Chandra Tal is called 'The Moon Lake‘. When we’re standing there at 4200m, watching the scenery around us, we had no effort to imagine that this place could be detached from earth, so it’s a suitable name :) The turquoise water in this scenery is incredible, in whatever direction we turned our heads, we were amazed.

    As the path leading there is a one-way and not less rough than anything else here, we decided to keep our camp and bikes next to the river in Batal and hike to the lake and back. We were quite surprised how much we underestimated the effort to do this and luckily found a group of Indians who gave us a lift for a few kilometers on our way back.

    Back in Batal, the famous Tibetan couple 'Chachi and Chacha' were happy to see us again and well understood how exhausted and hungry we were, so they prepared us a simple but hearty meal.

    Batal is one of these villages which is only inhabited during the summer months, the few buildings consist of walls made from stacked rocks covered with a tarpaulin, there is no electricity, nothing but a rocky desert.

    Chachi and Chacha have been running their cosy Dhaba since more than 30 years there, their tranquility is contagious and they are true heroes for any traveler. They’ve received several awards and were honored by a visit of the Dalai Lama years ago. If there is an emergency, they are there to help, whoever gets stuck in Batal can sleep in their Dhaba and they make sure that nobody starves, whereby money is never an issue. They always try to keep provisions to feed 30 people for 10 days which helped a few dozen tourists to survive an unforeseen, heavy snowfall in summer 2010 which cut off the village. A first helicopter with provisions reached them after more than a week and evacuated the women and childs.

    After two nights of camping at the river, we left Batal well fed. Chachi and Chacha said ‘goodbye’ and wished us ‘good luck’ for the Kunzum La, so what could go wrong?
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  • Day 282

    A true dirt road

    June 7, 2018 in India

    Behind the pass, most people turn left to go to Leh in Ladakh on a paved road. We turned right to continue to Spiti - and the adventure began immediately. Some oncoming motorbikers warned us of the rising water levels. A few kilometers later we found ourselves within the icy waters of the first waterfall we had to cross, many more with knee-deep water followed and it somehow raised our fun factor to see how much more cars and even motorbikes were struggling than us.

    Actually you can’t call the ‘connection’ between Rohtang Pass and Kunzum La Pass (4550m) a road. It’s the only way, only open from June to September, and it’s just a horrible path. The little villages are abandoned most time of the year. Due to the icy crossings, the high altitude and the debris, our effort to move on was enormous, we needed a week to cycle the 100km. Sometimes the road turns into a river, sometimes it felt like bobbing from one rock to another.

    But we actually knew this before and we wanted this challenge, we knew that the area we’re going in is one of the most remote and disaster prone in the world, there is no network, not much food, no infrastructure at all. Shooting stones and landslides are daily fare. We were quite lucky when the ‘path’ became impassable after a massive landslide, just the day after we reached the last village before Kunzum La where many travelers got stuck then.

    After these few days, the beauty of the landscape, the remoteness, the silence, the starry sky, the thrill had already paid out in full. And there was a lot more to come up...impressions will follow :)
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  • Day 280

    Rohtang Pass

    June 5, 2018 in India

    The serpentines up there were countless and in the distance we could clearly see the road: A white snake (99% of the cars are white) meandering up the mountains, probably the highest traffic jam in the world (although they’ve limited the number of cars to 1200 per day). We could easily overtake them and luckily, the day we made the final climb was a Tuesday, so the road was closed for the public and only trucks supplying the population on the other side of the pass we’re allowed. We left our ‘base camp’ early and the road was ours :)

    The pass itself is rather unspectacular, but it’s the gateway to another world and the landscape changed dramatically behind: Rough mountains and unreachable, snowy peaks, we’re back in the Himalayas! And have never been so high with our bicycles...
    Hello Lahaul!

    A few Indians were up there though, wearing the funny old-fashioned snowsuits you can rent everywhere along the road since Manali. We were actually wondering for what, but when we reached Rohtang and continued for a bit we saw it: Indian tourists rolling from one side to the other in a few, grey remainings of snow, armed with selfie sticks and dressed with these awful suits. So funny to watch! This is what some of them came all the way from south India for, and some did not even make it to the pass because of traffic jam and lack of time - absolutely insane!
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  • Day 278

    Happy coincidence

    June 3, 2018 in India

    After Manali was out of sight, we patiently went from one accommodation to another but they were all booked, or the prices were off the roof. So we’re lucky to find the homestay of Barnet‘s family, booked out as well, but they offered us to pitch our tent in their beautiful apple and cherry orchard.

    Sometimes when we arrive somewhere, we have this feeling that an accommodation is going to be really nice and comfortable, like in this case, and it’s mostly because of the people. While still pitching our tent we already asked if we could stay longer.

    Barnet, his family and Sujeed the cook know every tree in Ladakh, Lahaul and Spiti, are full-blooded nature lovers and have probably climbed any peak in this region. Consequently, we had great conversations and they really raised our appetite to cycle through Lahaul and Spiti, our upcoming adventure :) On top of that, they run a rooftop café with a 360 degrees view of the surrounding mountains and amazing food. Thus, we left well prepared and well fed for the first hurdle on our way to Spiti, the Rohtang Pass, let’s go!
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  • Day 275

    Oh no, Manali

    May 31, 2018 in India

    We enjoyed lots of downhill, green tea plantations, little traffic and went down to Mandi where the heat overwhelmed us again. There was no other option, but from here on it would go only up, up, up.

    We chose a side road, slept in a temple for the first time and found the road flooded by the Beas river the next morning. A guy on the other side of the valley shouted that we should wait... The water level is controlled by a hydro power plant and after an hour we could continue.

    The further we went towards Manali, the more touristy it became, some whole villages seem to live from either whitewater rafting or paragliding.
    The booking counters along the road are all licensed and numbered, ranging to numbers higher than 1000(!). How can they live from that? We could count the rafting boats on the river on the fingers of one hand that day...

    Manali turned out to be our (negative) climax then: In fact, every Indian tourist we met till we got there, told us they would go there - and how beautiful it is... We were shocked when we found ourselves within a massive traffic jam in and around the dusty, dirty city. It was so overcrowded, noisy and just getting on our nerves that staying there was no option - after about an hour we probably had overtaken all cars again which had overtaken us earlier that day. Let’s scram!

    We should be lucky to find a lovely and peaceful place with a great host and great cook later that day and decided to take a rest day there :)
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  • Day 272

    Where the Dalai Lama lives

    May 28, 2018 in India

    We didn’t get the chance to see the Dalai Lama in person (which became quite difficult since his popularity has reached incredible dimensions), but he's omnipresent in McLeod Ganj anyway. Photos of him and his sayings, his texts, his books are everywhere, in any shape or size, in his temple, in the countless restaurants, cafés, shops, guesthouses and hotels.

    Most of the people living here are Tibetan refugees who worship their spiritual leader. They benefit from the booming tourism, enjoy the peace and freedom of this place, always smiling. But when they tell their moving stories about their escape from Tibet, we can feel that they miss their country, their home.

    While Silke was finishing her Vipassana, Hauke helped out at a local environmental project, supporting Tibetan women in a paper recycling factory, all handicraft, and definitely a great experience with the cheerful women.

    Otherwise, we recharged our cycling batteries with delicious food, even some Italian, and prepared ourselves for the upcoming weeks. After all, we still had grand plans for the last weeks of our journey...
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  • Day 270

    Vipassana Meditation

    May 26, 2018 in India

    A 10 day Vipassana meditation course is an individual experience for everyone, thus this post is written from Silke’s perspective. Hauke didn’t finish the course anyway because of too much pain from sitting cross-legged, meditation wasn’t possible anymore, so he quit on day 8.

    I had never done something similar before and these ten days were not holiday at all.
    No other activities were allowed, no talking, no phones, no reading, no writing, no music, no exercising, nothing. It was not allowed to walk out of the course boundaries. Men and women are separated during the whole time of the course (the longest time for us since we left for this trip, and the longest time we spent in one place). Basically everything that brings joy was prohibited. Sounds almost like being in jail, right? But as the Vipassana center of Dharamkot is located in the middle of a pine forest it feels not. It’s an absolutely calm and peaceful place, completely fenced off from busy McLeod Ganj, perfect to calm down your mind and learn a meditation technique.

    And what made it even more perfect were the great volunteers and assistant teachers. There was nothing I had to take care of. They prepared the meals, organized a laundry service and made sure that we students could solely focus on the meditation.

    Most of the meditation were group sittings in a large hall and a part of it in our rooms and the ten hours of daily meditation were quite challenging, both physically and mentally.

    Try to sit cross-legged just for one hour with a straight back without moving or stretching any parts of your body and you know what I mean. When I looked at the strong Indian women around me who were sitting there like little Buddhas, like rocks, it felt like ‘this is not fair’, but they’re used to it and us westerners are not. This is the physical aspect.

    Mentally it was demanding too, of course, as learning a meditation technique is hard mental work. Especially during the first days it was really hard for me to calm down all my thoughts. Quite often I found myself in a situation where my mind just kept on wandering away, sometimes for minutes before I realized it. Then I had to remember myself to focus on the meditation again.

    During the first three days, the meditation was all about focussing on the breath, a simple observation of the air flow in the area around the nostrils, nothings else. But it can be so difficult! And so frustrating, if you realize that you can not even control your mind for a minute to do this simple job!

    At the end of the third day, we were taught the actual Vipassana meditation technique, which is about an objective observation of sensations throughout the whole body, simply put. If you can not even focus on your breath, how can you do that, for an hour or longer!? “Work continuously, diligently, persistently, objectively!”, to repeat S.N. Goenka ‘refrain’, or “work hard!”.

    I went through many ups and downs during this course, some sittings felt quite successful, some frustrating and I did not know how I was going to make it to the end of the course. But it is very important, and this is a crucial aspect of this technique, to see the things as they are, without craving, without aversion. It is what it is, some session are good, some are not, it doesn’t matter.

    However, somehow I did get through it, which made me realize that I’m much stronger than I think I am. After the long time in silence it was finally a relief to talk again, to get to know the people I’d been sitting in the hall and sleeping in the same room with for 10 days, to share our experiences. Thus, a long night was followed by an even more intense chatting during last meal the next morning :)

    What I learned as well is that happiness comes from within. I thought I already knew this, but I came to truly and deeply experience this at the course. I realised that despite what was going on at anytime, I could choose to be happy if I wanted to.

    Be happy,
    with much Metta,
    Silke
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  • Day 257

    Leaving the heat below

    May 13, 2018 in India

    Cycling on nice side roads with little traffic through the countryside was beautiful - from time to time we could even see snow-covered mountains in the distance. That’s where we wanted to go to escape the heat, it was our strong motivation, at this time temperatures had already reached 45 degrees in Delhi. In the end, we were a bit surprised how fast we had climbed up to Dharamsala, respectively McLeod Ganj. Was it really our fitness level or just the heat lighting a fire under us?

    And people are somehow different since we are in Himachal, more friendly, more relaxed, more up for good conversations, not just staring at us like they did in the plains. Thus, we really enjoyed our first time camping in India, with visitors of course, but they were nice, curious and wanted to ride our bikes.

    Did we already mention that we can’t get enough of mangos, melons and bananas? Not a single day passes without buying a kilo of mangos, till our panniers burst, yummy :)
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  • Day 254

    Let's take the train

    May 10, 2018 in India ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    We could write an article about the booking system, waiting lists and the numerous classes because this is where the adventure 'taking a train in India' actually starts. But we were lucky that our tickets got confirmed just in the night before the departure day and we could still reach the station (we had booked different trains from different stations on different dates to increase our chances of getting a ticket - Indian holiday season was starting and trains are booked months in advance so that you usually end up on waiting lists).

    But how to take bicycles on an Indian train? We had heard different stories: Book it as luggage and put it in the luggage cart, book it as freight so that it would travel on a different train, just take it with you in your cabin. The first two options were not possible at the minor train station we had chosen, the staff there appeared helpless. We didn’t like these options anyway, so we had to go for the last one (which is not allowed...).

    Waiting at the station became endless, we got there around noon to check it out, the train was supposed to depart in the late afternoon and we were still sitting there in the darkness, our bicycles prepared (handlebars turned, pedals removed to make them as slim as possible), our panniers stuffed into rice sacks.

    And then the thrill began: With more than 5 hours delay, the train arrived (not only the Deutsche Bahn has timing issues... although the Indian railway network is the largest in the world, with trains traveling for days in one direction, what are 5 hours then?). We had exactly 2 minutes, there were no lights at the station, we had to find the right cart, running, a hustle and bustle everywhere and then we found it, maybe a minute was over, maybe more? While Silke was shouting at the guys who were hanging out in the entrance to help her getting the bikes and bags in, Hauke had to run back to get the big rice sack (it was too much to carry it in one run). When Hauke reached the sack, the train started to move, „Run, Forest, Run!“. Silke was keeping the door open when the rice sack flew in first, and after that Hauke.
    We’re complete, we made it, we’re on board, yeah!

    Solely the conductor was not amused... but what could he do? Thus, he guided us to our beds (!) and after a while our excitement decreased and we dropped off to sleep...

    We woke up in another state, hello Himachal Pradesh! We decided to jump off the train one station before our final destination because a large lake appeared on our map nearby, and doing so, we also avoided another Indian metropolis.

    Taking a train in India is a remarkable experience, especially overnight in an air-conditioned sleeper class, and without bicycles... But now we know how to (not?) do it :)
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  • Day 253

    Namasté India!

    May 9, 2018 in India

    Crossing the border into overpopulated India was quite easy. The first days of cycling were characterized by smooth roads, intense heat, bad air quality, chaotic city traffic, disgusting smell of burning piles of trash, cows and pigs crossing the road. And to be honest, the only thing that whetted our appetite was the amazing food and the beginning of the mango season :) But it became better and better...more impressions will follow.

    By the way, we’re in the mountains of Himachal Pradesh now, at the place where the Daila Lama lives, going to do a meditation course and will be back online in 10 days.

    See you soon :)
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