Spain
Allande

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    • Day 28

      La Mesa

      May 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Day 28
      I actually overslept this morning, unbelievable, right, in a dorm, but felt so good when I woke up! The terrain was the hardest yet, with a huge ascent for the first half day, and a rain-wind storm at the top; tough going. But it was familiar mountainous walking, like the Alps perhaps, and I was alone ALL day ... apart from the moment I missed a turning, walked way down a forest path, and heard a voice shouting all sorts of things of which the only thing I understood was 'chica'! It was the forest ranger who had watched me wander off, came after me in his vehicle and gave me a lift back to the road. Rescued! Then I walked with an elderly Australian man for several miles until he stopped off at his accommodation; I sang my way downhill to my hostel. The cows are always intrigued when I sing.

      I was loving the patterns, tones and textures today. Fewer flowers but more lichen, moss and ferns. Loving the cloud, the sudden low visibility, the spit and blast of the changeable weather, the subdued light into the distant hills, the loneliness. Loved the ‘taixu’ tree. 1000 years old. Warm, there, safe.

      Just before bed I experienced a hostel classic. Three friends at one end of the 24 bed dorm opened the window, creating a draught; the two ladies beyond me but 4 beds away from the window area went to close it. Twice, both. Or was it three times. The 'Openers' objected, loudly, in bad English, the 'Closers' responded in similarly bad English, neither listening to the other of course, and no 'please can we... because..'. To and fro, voices raised, shouting, foreign incomprehensible aggression flying over my bed as each expressed their anger; the Closers went to get the Host who marched in and clapped it shut, muttering and tutting. The window-hoggers whose German I understood then worked out that if they lowered the external shutters the draught would be less noticeable, so plotted to open up again later ... which they did, I'm glad to say. Hostel muff is awful.

      It was a cartoon, would have been funny if it were not a really uncomfortable caricature of people's inability to treat each other as humans sharing the planet. Isn't it just like life? Sigh...
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    • Day 69

      Berducedo to Lugo

      July 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Down from the high plains to Bertucedo, followed by some big but beautiful days walking through Grandas de Salime, A Mesa, Fonsegrada, O Cadavo and A Lastra during which we left the principality of Asturias and entered Galicia.Read more

    • Day 39

      Colinas de Arriba to Berducedo

      June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      Today was one of the stand out days on the Camino Primitivo, as I took the Hospitales route which climbs into the mountains and features views in all directions. It's called the Hospitales route because it passes by the ruins of ancient pilgrim hospitals.Read more

    • Day 31

      J31 - Arrivée à Berducedo

      September 22 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Arrivé tôt (14 h) à Berducedo après 18 km. Malgré le brouillard au sommet, cette étape était magnifique !

      Le village est tout petit, quelques exploitations agricoles, quelques albergues. D'ailleurs, je suis dans l'une d'elles ce soir 😊

      J'ai discuté avec une californienne Megan, déjà croisée sur le chemin hier.

      Repas pèlerin à l'albergue: soupe de légumes, porc (assaisonné au chorizo, super bon en tout cas), tarte de Santiago (ma première cette année)
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    • Day 4

      Day 20 Tineo to Pola 426.6km

      October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Packed Albergue last night Very loud and inconsiderate people.... I won't get into details but I would not stay there again.

      I saw the biggest spider at breakfast😱

      Beautiful clear morning to walk. Again straight up the mountain. Took some great photos.

      Could hear the windmills whoosh as they turned.

      Lots of cows all wearing bells. No burros yet. Lots of sheep and goats.

      As you can see with my Garmin up and down all day. Love the countryside🤗.

      I did fall due to stupid gravel 😳But, I had on my knee support so it actually helped not to scrape it as badly. Darn! But in all honesty it is very rocky and tricky terrain due to the steep inclines and declines. It could have been a lot worse for sure.

      Pola is a very cute town. I have a rest day tomorrow so I am very happy to take it easy after a long day today. Also to rest my knee🍀🙏
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    • Day 5

      Day 21 Rest Day Pola

      October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Lovely peaceful sleep.
      Woke up at usual 530 but went back to sleep until 7am

      Came downstairs for cafe con leche and toast

      Spent the rest of the day journaling and catching up on correspondence.

      I can't believe how tired I feel.

      I treated myself to a wonderful cabbage/ potato soup for lunch with Chorizo called Pote Asturiana. Wonderful.

      Met Avril she is heading down to Valencia due to rain forecast for the next week or so

      It was great catching up with her. She actually saw a snake today,! Also she was caught in a group of anxious cattle that had escaped out of their field. She got a great video😉

      So tomorrow is a huge day with the elevation climb over 1100 meters. Rain and wind are forecasted.....TBC
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    • Day 27

      Pola de Allande

      May 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Day 27
      Another day without the rucsac, and what a difference it makes to walking a long distance! Today was incredibly changeable in the weather, with no half hour constant: spitty rain followed by glowing warmth, and wonderful wind, then wet rain, gentle breeze, chop and change, and, at the very end, one half of the sky blue and the other covered in raincloud (two photos show this below). No rainbows, but I kept looking for them. Marvellous, all of it.

      It was lovely walking with Simon and Denise/NZ at several points, chatting about random all-sorts, as you do. It's very easy to be together for a short while with another pilgrim, perhaps meeting up at a cafe when you stop for a coffee, and then leaving together, but then to go your separate ways if someone needs to stop and put a coat on, or if your pace is different, or just because you wanna walk alone. Nice to not have to excuse yourself or be embarrassed. Everyone knows we all have to go at our own best speed and take breaks independently.

      I was playing my little fife at one point, wandering down an idyllic woody pathway, and failed to take a critical turning. Found myself way off the route, but at such a simple parallel distance from the right path, I thought, that I decided to brave cutting across the wood/ field/ fence/wall/ undergrowth/ stream ... a bit of a hack, to be honest, but I do like a challenge!

      Took another alternative path (shorter, and on purpose this time) and wandered around an abandoned monastery a little, but it felt a bit creepy so didn't stay long! My practice now with all the churches and chapels we pass is to try the door; mostly they are locked. Then I knock, to show I'm requesting entry! If the door is open - yesterday, unusually, there were three open churches, all explicitly welcoming pilgrims - I go in and kneel to pray briefly, or even lie down on the stone floor. Just a symbolic action of open-handedness, and open-heartedness (a bit dramatic, but no one else sees me so it's only me who finds it weird!). I want to keep reminding myself to welcome whatever offers itself to me on this Camino, without pre-determining what that should see or feel or sound or look like.

      I'm singing a lot when I'm on my own. Easy, fun, la-la-la, unambitious, funny how I can remember words of songs sometimes and not at all at other times. Lots of childhood songs coming up into my memory! When the road is rough and steep, glad that I live am I, I'll sing you one-oh.

      A nice short day tomorrow, 12 miles perhaps, but with a very big ascent at the start. Looking forward to it!
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    • Day 31

      Puerto del Palo 1150 m

      September 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Enfin après 8 km (et pas loin de 2h30), j'arrive au sommet de Puerto del Palo à 1150 m d'altitude. Là haut, il y a un brouillard à couper au couteau, et du vent ! Ça caille !!

      Je ne traine pas et entame la descente !Read more

    • Day 6

      Pola de Allande > La Mesa

      April 24 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

      The most amaaazzzinggg beautiful day up in the mountains which I just about lived to tell the tale of after huffing and puffing up 3 hours of straight uphills, lugging 2x jars of lentils to survive the next couple days of nothingness. Was super misty at the top but cleared on the way down yay!! Arrived to another great albergue nestled right amongst the mountains and had obligatory apple for pudding (lacking the cutlery tho, what am I meant to eat it with my hands like an uncivilised scumbag??)Read more

    • Day 38

      Tineo to Colinas de Arriba

      June 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      Today was cloudy and mostly cool. It started out a bit foggy, so I missed any views that there were leaving Tineo.

      Tomorrow is supposed to be the most difficult day of the Camino Primitivo. Typically, the stage is from Borres to Berducedo which is just over 24 km, but I'm staying in a great albergue in Colinas de Arriba which will make my walk tomorrow just 21 km. There will be no places with services (food, bathrooms) to stop for those 22 km.

      I knew that this albergue had a private room in addition to the dorms, and around lunchtime I sent them a WhatsApp message to ask if it was still available. It was and I'm so glad that I decided to go for it, because it's the nicest private room that I e stayed in on this year's Camino. And it has the BEST shower!
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