Spain
Tineo

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    • Day 4

      Day 20 Tineo to Pola 426.6km

      October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Packed Albergue last night Very loud and inconsiderate people.... I won't get into details but I would not stay there again.

      I saw the biggest spider at breakfast😱

      Beautiful clear morning to walk. Again straight up the mountain. Took some great photos.

      Could hear the windmills whoosh as they turned.

      Lots of cows all wearing bells. No burros yet. Lots of sheep and goats.

      As you can see with my Garmin up and down all day. Love the countryside🤗.

      I did fall due to stupid gravel 😳But, I had on my knee support so it actually helped not to scrape it as badly. Darn! But in all honesty it is very rocky and tricky terrain due to the steep inclines and declines. It could have been a lot worse for sure.

      Pola is a very cute town. I have a rest day tomorrow so I am very happy to take it easy after a long day today. Also to rest my knee🍀🙏
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    • Day 5

      Day 21 Rest Day Pola

      October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Lovely peaceful sleep.
      Woke up at usual 530 but went back to sleep until 7am

      Came downstairs for cafe con leche and toast

      Spent the rest of the day journaling and catching up on correspondence.

      I can't believe how tired I feel.

      I treated myself to a wonderful cabbage/ potato soup for lunch with Chorizo called Pote Asturiana. Wonderful.

      Met Avril she is heading down to Valencia due to rain forecast for the next week or so

      It was great catching up with her. She actually saw a snake today,! Also she was caught in a group of anxious cattle that had escaped out of their field. She got a great video😉

      So tomorrow is a huge day with the elevation climb over 1100 meters. Rain and wind are forecasted.....TBC
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    • Day 27

      Pola de Allande

      May 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Day 27
      Another day without the rucsac, and what a difference it makes to walking a long distance! Today was incredibly changeable in the weather, with no half hour constant: spitty rain followed by glowing warmth, and wonderful wind, then wet rain, gentle breeze, chop and change, and, at the very end, one half of the sky blue and the other covered in raincloud (two photos show this below). No rainbows, but I kept looking for them. Marvellous, all of it.

      It was lovely walking with Simon and Denise/NZ at several points, chatting about random all-sorts, as you do. It's very easy to be together for a short while with another pilgrim, perhaps meeting up at a cafe when you stop for a coffee, and then leaving together, but then to go your separate ways if someone needs to stop and put a coat on, or if your pace is different, or just because you wanna walk alone. Nice to not have to excuse yourself or be embarrassed. Everyone knows we all have to go at our own best speed and take breaks independently.

      I was playing my little fife at one point, wandering down an idyllic woody pathway, and failed to take a critical turning. Found myself way off the route, but at such a simple parallel distance from the right path, I thought, that I decided to brave cutting across the wood/ field/ fence/wall/ undergrowth/ stream ... a bit of a hack, to be honest, but I do like a challenge!

      Took another alternative path (shorter, and on purpose this time) and wandered around an abandoned monastery a little, but it felt a bit creepy so didn't stay long! My practice now with all the churches and chapels we pass is to try the door; mostly they are locked. Then I knock, to show I'm requesting entry! If the door is open - yesterday, unusually, there were three open churches, all explicitly welcoming pilgrims - I go in and kneel to pray briefly, or even lie down on the stone floor. Just a symbolic action of open-handedness, and open-heartedness (a bit dramatic, but no one else sees me so it's only me who finds it weird!). I want to keep reminding myself to welcome whatever offers itself to me on this Camino, without pre-determining what that should see or feel or sound or look like.

      I'm singing a lot when I'm on my own. Easy, fun, la-la-la, unambitious, funny how I can remember words of songs sometimes and not at all at other times. Lots of childhood songs coming up into my memory! When the road is rough and steep, glad that I live am I, I'll sing you one-oh.

      A nice short day tomorrow, 12 miles perhaps, but with a very big ascent at the start. Looking forward to it!
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    • Day 31

      Puerto del Palo 1150 m

      September 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Enfin après 8 km (et pas loin de 2h30), j'arrive au sommet de Puerto del Palo à 1150 m d'altitude. Là haut, il y a un brouillard à couper au couteau, et du vent ! Ça caille !!

      Je ne traine pas et entame la descente !Read more

    • Day 6

      Pola de Allande > La Mesa

      April 24 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

      The most amaaazzzinggg beautiful day up in the mountains which I just about lived to tell the tale of after huffing and puffing up 3 hours of straight uphills, lugging 2x jars of lentils to survive the next couple days of nothingness. Was super misty at the top but cleared on the way down yay!! Arrived to another great albergue nestled right amongst the mountains and had obligatory apple for pudding (lacking the cutlery tho, what am I meant to eat it with my hands like an uncivilised scumbag??)Read more

    • Day 38

      Tineo to Colinas de Arriba

      June 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      Today was cloudy and mostly cool. It started out a bit foggy, so I missed any views that there were leaving Tineo.

      Tomorrow is supposed to be the most difficult day of the Camino Primitivo. Typically, the stage is from Borres to Berducedo which is just over 24 km, but I'm staying in a great albergue in Colinas de Arriba which will make my walk tomorrow just 21 km. There will be no places with services (food, bathrooms) to stop for those 22 km.

      I knew that this albergue had a private room in addition to the dorms, and around lunchtime I sent them a WhatsApp message to ask if it was still available. It was and I'm so glad that I decided to go for it, because it's the nicest private room that I e stayed in on this year's Camino. And it has the BEST shower!
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    • Day 29

      J29 - Arrivée à La Estrella

      September 20 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 19 °C

      Mon hébergement (une pension) est en dehors du chemin (2,5 km en plus) près de La Estrella. En tout, j'ai fait 29 km aujourd'hui.

      Mais autant le matin a été difficile, autant l'après-midi s'est passée sans problème, même si ça montait bien.

      La météo ne s'est pas trompée : il faisait super beau, et en peu de temps, la pluie, forte, est arrivée. J'ai juste eu le temps de mettre la protection sur le sac, et je suis arrivé avant le déluge...
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    • Day 3

      Day 3 - Bodenaya to Borres

      June 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

      Tonight's update will be short.

      We can't say enough about our time at Albergue Bodenaya with Allison and Alberto. Anyone who walks the Primitivo should have the experience of staying with them.

      We also can't say enough about the views on the Primitivo. Countless times today we paused to soak in the landscape. The pictures we are sharing just don't do it justice.

      We are staying in the last town on the route before making the decision to take the Hospitales route or the Pola de Allande route to Berducedo. The goal has been to do the Hospitales route as it is supposed to be the crown jewel of views on this Camino. Unfortunately it looks like we are getting rain tomorrow and we may not get any views.

      The route we are taking doesn't have any support, meaning there are no towns, cafes, bars or stops until we are at the end of the stage. We have to carry all the food, snacks and beverages for the whole day. We also will be carrying a wet load of laundry that we washed when we arrived today but as the rain started shortly after we didn't get them dried.

      We will get up early to tackle the day, rain or shine. We are on the Camino and that is an incredible privilege.

      Ultreia et Suseia!
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    • Day 30

      J30 - Alto de Piedratecha

      September 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Départ à la frontale ce matin à 7h30 (la pluie est annoncée toute la journée, et des orages en fin de journée... En fait, ce sera différent !)

      Je remonte donc depuis ma pension vers le col de Piedratecha (au moins 200 m de dénivelé) sous une pluie fine.Read more

    • Day 26

      Tineo

      May 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Day 26
      My back was really badly in spasm last night, but this morning I felt well enough to walk, slowly, having sent my rucsac on to tonight's hostel by pilgrim taxi. It was tough in places, when I was feeling drained, especially when it was also raining. But remarkably the landscape felt really English today, and therefore kind of homely, with green green fields spreading out gently in every direction, woodland paths, stony and muddy, and almost every flower the same as at home: foxglove, daisy, dandelion, aquilegia, bugle, honeysuckle, bluebell, greater and lesser celandine, campion ... you get the idea.

      I met some great people, the slow ones who saunter along at the back end of the day's flood of pilgrims, like José Luis (apparently the most popular name in Spain, I've met three already) with whom I sheltered from the heaviest rain alongside Isabelle from France and the local magazine delivery lady. He made really nice jokes the whole time, the sort that make you really laugh because they are so silly, in Spanish-plus-hands; we were all made to feel as if we were part of some big warm huggy friendship thing together, in all spontaneity. My conclusion is that this man is simply fluent in communicating - the language being relatively irrelevant. Three weeks ago all I knew in Spanish was hasta la vista (didn't know what it meant) and vamos a la playa (only useful in some locations), but now I'm able to laugh at jokes and understand when someone is talking about the deeper meaning of the Camino. Jose Luis, that is, when we walked together a short distance later in the day; surprising, in a way, after all his joking around.
      Google translate helps when ordering food or wanting to take advantage of a two-for-one offer in the supermarket, otherwise I can now proudly claim to 'get by' in this language, mostly of course because of my Italian.

      I'm sending my bag on tomorrow as well. Hooray.
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