Spanien
Arcos, Los

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    • Dag 18

      Los Arcos to Logrona

      21. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      We were up early this morning to start off a big day of 28.5 km. After a terrible sleep I was happy to be up at 545 am and start walking 630 am with head torches on . The first part of the walk we were going at a great pace bur suddenly realised we were being eaten alive by mossies so although the sun was rising over the hills we could hardly stop to photograph due to mossie invasion on steroids. It was beautiful rolling countryside and we got to Sansol supposedly a pretty wee place but a mossie retreat +++. Not a long stop there as we came across another pretty town with super good coffee and the most beautifully baked fresh bread filled with omelets and tomate! Alot of the cafe employees have obviously been to a non charm academy of hospitality where you get grunted at and almost feel they are over us pilgrims making their days far too busy. Bur as long as the coffee is great we don't care.
      So on we went with some steep climbs but pretty countryside and new sown grass. Finally we came to Viana a beaut city with an old church and very medieval. We had an amazing lunch of garlic mushrooms on bread.
      So totally refreshed we set off for the last 11km.
      Luckily the rain had started to fall lightly which was far more pleasant then the relentless sun of yesterday. ⁸ So on and onand on we walked through the1 rioja wineries eating bunches of grapes.on the way. Logrona loomed in the distance but as usual the last few kilometers went on forever. Finally walking through the beautiful city of Logrona we found our comfortable hostel! The taking off of shoes at the end of the day and hopping in the shower is pure bliss!
      Who knew but there is a wine festival and the town is heaving. Unfortunately as responsible pilgrims ;we are not dancing.the night away but after a few drinks of the local rioja wine and tapas we are tucked up in bed. We have a 29 km walk ahead tomorrow so good sence prevailed
      . No blisters yet but.feet very sore at end.of day.
      It's amazing to think.that on the this walk all we focus on is our feet our muscles and where the next.good toilet and coffee will be??.
      Their is a lot of partying out so hope we get a good night's sleep
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    • Dag 8

      Estella to Los Arcos

      9. april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

      100 miles done. 400 to go. 20% of the way!!

      Nothing starts the day better than a chocolate croissant, a fresh squeezed orange juice, and a cafe con leche. I’m getting so used to this daily routine, I may start having to incorporate breakfast into my mornings back home.

      You know what else starts the day right? About a mile into my walk, I found the Fuente del Vino. Yes that’s right, a wine fountain! I dumped out my water bottle and enjoyed a pretty good tempranillo over the next few miles of walking.

      Chilly and windy today but I kept my sleeves rolled up because the wind felt amazing on my arms and face as I watched the wind blow through the tall grass around me. The wind was swirling and dancing and it was kind of a magical experience. No, I wasn’t high. Just enjoying the combination of the amazing scenery, crisp air, muscle exhaustion, and tempranillo running through my veins.

      Bryan and I have always dreamt of owning a wine bar. Today, I’m thinking that if we did, we would obviously then have to travel the world sourcing great wine from vineyards… and those travel expenses would be a business write-off, right?
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    • Dag 16

      Beetje schaduw

      17. maj 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      We wisten dat het na Estella zwaar zou worden, en inderdaad het valt behoorlijk tegen. Heet, asfaltwegen, veel stijgingen. Als we niet te veel hijgen hebben wel weer gigantische uitzichten. Als een hele brede vallei zie je links en rechts weiden. Wilde bloemen in de berm. Overwegend graan en maïs in de velden, af en toe wijn, olijfbomen of koolzaad. Maar heel weinig gelegenheid om onderweg te stoppen. Of steil omhoog zodat je niet wilt stoppen of steil naar beneden en dan ben je heel druk aan het remmen. En altijd aan de zijkant weinig ruimte en pal in de zon.Læs mere

    • Dag 11

      Day 8 - Los Arcos to Viana

      23. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      At a glance:
      Cultural highlight: ancient paintings on the roof of a church that was a ruin yet the paintings have survived amongst the rubble.
      Food highlights: red peppers stuffed with spinach and walnuts in a tomato sauce. And lentil and chorizo soup. Oh, and white asparagus on our lunch picnic boccadilla.
      Kilometres walked: 18.34k
      # of steps: 28,842
      Elevation gain: 150m but some of it was lost and regained.
      Our choice was to walk 28k or 18k. We chose (wisely I think) 18k. Trudy, however, felt she could walk the 28k. I replied that I could too but it wouldn't be fun.
      Trudy woke from a dream that she and Peter and others were at Barry Lortons who with Elvane who were hosting a potluck and neighbours and friends were bring food. Later today you got an email from Elvane that Barry had died. He had suffered from bladder cancer. Barry was one of those characters that make the world more interesting. Sad to not have him here.
      We have become immersed in the social life of the Camino constantly running into the same people. Today we had coffee with four Aussies, whom we met at Orison, on our first day. This evening we had dinner next to them. One of them Viv, originally from England, worked as a hairdresser on the Alaska cruise ships back on 1975. She worked for a hair salon that had salons around the world and ended up in Australia.
      Tristan, with whom we shared a room, is having foot issues but still walking.
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    • Dag 10

      So long farewell

      27. maj 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      Auf viederzen stage 7

      It was a lovely day
      the ground reasonably flat although we keep on discovering that there is no such thing as totally flat ground on Camino there are constant ups and downs even on small hills
      the temperatures were great
      I started off a little late than usual about 8:30 Inez was in the same albergue that I was
      so we started together and walked to Azquerta where she left to go ahead but Manuel showed up and Manuel and I walked together from that point all the wait until Los Arcos ...
      it is impossible to describe the beauty that we see in everything that we see...

      GOD IS GREAT!!!!!
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    • Dag 11

      Ain’t No Mountain High Enough…

      9. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      Estella to Los Arcos
      Day 8 - 21km

      We had another early start this morning with our first stop just a couple of kms out of town at the famous wine fountain. Unfortunately we were too early as it doesn’t start gushing wine till 8 😧. We pushed on regardless and had a lovely walk up the mountain. The views, again, were incredible and we had a nice breeze to keep us refreshed. We passed a lovely Spanish lady serenading us with a piano accordion along the path which was a treat to see in the middle of nowhere 😍 We were walking through wine country with lots of Vineyards and Olive trees. After a couple of coffee/lunch stops we arrived around 1pm at Los Arcos which is another quaint little town with lots of interesting streets. We were happy to relieve ourselves of our backpacks at our accommodation and after a freshen up we headed for the town square and had a well deserved jug of Sangria with a few other pilgrims. Early night tonight as we have a big walk tomorrow. 🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️Læs mere

    • Dag 9

      New plan

      8. august 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

      I felt a bit sad this morning waking up and being the only person left in the hostel eating breakfast at 730. Everyone else seemed to have left early to beat the heat. I made my way to the bus station to take the bus to Los Arcos and was heartened to see other pilgrims waiting. I started talking to an American girl who is also walking alone. She had to get her blisters treated because they had gotten so bad. Another woman was waiting because she hurt her knee on one of the descents. Another had bought new shoes and the shop gave her one shoe in the right size and one shoe in a smaller size. She had to cut a hole in her shoe to give her big toe more room because it kept pressing against the top of the shoe. Clearly I wasn’t alone in getting a bit beat up physically in the first week.

      I had a nice conversation with the American girl who agreed how hard it is not to compare yourself to other pilgrims and stay focused on your own journey. And how to decide what pain is tolerable and what pain needs to be listened to to avoid injury. It’s validating to hear that others are experiencing similar things.

      After taking the day to think, I’ve settled on a new plan. I’m going to take a bus for the next few days to visit Logrono, Burgos, and Leon. After Leon, I’ll take one last bus to Astorga and rejoin the Camino in Galicia for the remaining 260km. This will put me back in the mountains (which I love) and will give me ample time to do slower walking days and take rest days when I want or need to. If I get to Santiago a few days early, I’ll see if I can change my flight to have more time at home before going back to work.

      I don’t have the courage yet to cancel all those reservations I made for the rest of the trip, but I’ll do it soon. I’m going to pick up a sleeping bag in Logrono and do it the “pilgrim way” and either arrive at albergues (hostels only for pilgrims) and ask if they have a bed or make reservations a day or two in advance. I definitely learned in a big way that sometimes you really can’t plan for things, so I’m letting go of planning and taking it as it comes. I also underestimated how important the pilgrim community feels and I’m opting to stay in hostels and albergues rather than the comforts of private rooms to be able to connect more with people. I’m learning and pivoting as I go.

      (PS - I know this is a long post, but I was excited to spend time in the church in Los Arcos. It has one of the few Black Madonna statues on the Camino and I was excited to see it. If you don’t know the history of Black Madonnas, I recommend reading God is a Black Woman by Christena Cleveland. She did a pilgrimage in France visiting the many Black Madonnas there.)
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    • Dag 14

      Estella to Los Arcos

      4. maj 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      A very different countryside today. More mountainous and rugged looking.

      I stopped at the infamous wine fountain in Irache and walked through miles of vineyards.

      The last 12kms were without towns to break up the trip which made it seem much longer than it was.

      Los Arcos is a small town and very peaceful. I was in early after an early start so was able to get a bottom bunk.

      I had the communal dinner here which was healthy and tasty. Lots of interesting people including Mike from Tasmania and a lovely lady called Rita from Belgium. She said she had a friend who lived in Sydney and it was Jenny Abraham!

      Albergue Casa de la Abuela
      22kms
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    • Dag 8

      Day 8

      31. august 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Today once again started off with a 15 - 20 min walk back to the trail before starting.. the weather is fabulous for walking at 8 am..still really warm but not sunny, probably why so many people start before that…My first climb out of Estella took me past a blacksmith’s workshop, I couldn’t resist a quick look around as he had some amazing and intricate things as well as larger stuff.. bought a tiny Camino shell to add to my rucksack.. next up was the “wine fountain “ I mean, who doesn’t want red wine at 8.30 in the morning 😳.. that said, I did decide it would be rude to pass without a taste 😂
      There was a slight variation on route choices just after here, I chose to go “up and over”rather than the slightly longer “around “ route. Glad I did as it went along some fabulous forest tracks and it was nice to be in the trees for a while as I knew there was an 11km stretch coming up that would have no shade.
      Once again I passed through wheat fields, olive groves and vineyards. The last couple of hours was walking on a really loose gravelly surface, which did become a bit uncomfortable..
      i arrived in Los Arcos in good time, so decided to chill out in the square for a bit eating my nectarines .
      A couple of Aussie guys I’d passed earlier invited me to join them a bit later when they arrived. They told me all about their Camino journey and how they were really struggling, but starting to feel like they’re getting fitter. They’re not doing the whole thing as they’re off to Tuscany in 10 days ( I’m only a lot jealous!! ) as I was leaving, they invited me to join them for dinner this evening… as nice as it would have been, I’m not prepared to walk an extra 4km to do so.. I’m actually really looking forward to eating alone tonight….
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    • Dag 23

      A calm walk to Los Arcos

      19. april 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Yet another beautiful day…and this time not many ups and downs, just one out of Estella, and one up to Villamayor de Monjardín, otherwise just even walks through these never ending green fields that we have been so wanting to see! Again it was cold, about 6° when we left, and took longer to shed another layer as there were many shaded areas, and also a lovely breeze. But it did get hot by the end, and I realise I have totally misjudged the strength of the sun…I had thought it is early spring, and it is even snowing a bit…but of course the longest day is June, and I have got sunburnt hands and legs, and even lips…I keep using lip balm but it doesn’t have sunscreen in it…I will have a visit to a Farmacia in Logroño and get some strong (and up to date!) sunscreen…

      So today was 22 kms according to Amr’s watch…mine was a bit less (21)…but less demanding, and through such gorgeous countryside…it is the day when leaving Estella we pass the Fuente del Vino where you can get vino (and agua) from the fountain at a monastery winery…not maybe the thing at 8.30am, but you have a sip to set you on your way! Even taking it fairly leisurely we arrived at Los Arcos at about 3 o’clock…so much quicker without hills. Found our hotel (we stayed here last time) and the bags were even in our room! Luxury! Then went to the plaza to have a beer, and found many others there and had a lovely unwind.

      Back to the hotel for downtime before dinner. Our hotel’s restaurant is closed at the moment, and he had directed us to a restaurant across the road. When we investigated at 3.30 it was all very quiet, except the bar, and I wondered if people would be out for dinner, as in the plaza everyone was snacking…so when we wandered over to the restaurant at 7.15 I wondered if we would be dining there alone…well we got there and it was full! We were told to wait, but a lone American saw our predicament and invited us to his table, so we got in…so much for dining alone!! The American was Eddie from San Francisco and was good company…he was the person who took our photo together at the Fuente de Vino in the morning, and we had a good dinner together. (Again €14 for 3 courses, wine and bread). I wanted to have the rabbit, but it had finished sadly…but had a delicious veal stew, starting with the bean soup…Amr had a trout. And we both ended with arroz con leche …yum…

      It is very good..the camaraderie is still there…we are getting to know people, and we all greet each other very comfortably..from many countries. We will lose Eddie probably as he is going straight on from Logroño where we arrive on Friday. There is an Austrian who we meet and greet..he always knows us and calls us Australia and Egypt, and we call him Austria…one day we will find out his name! I am glad the Camino warmth and support continues.
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