Spain
Arroyo de Pozuelo

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    • Day 9

      Etappe 8: Logronio nach Najera

      September 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Um 7.45 starte ich in Logronio, noch bei Dunkelheit.
      Wieder standen fast 30 Kilometer an.
      Erst führte mich der Weg, durch einen Park und an einem Stausee vorbei.
      Später ging der Weg in eine breite Schotterpiste über, die an Weinbergen vorbeiführte.
      Nachdem wir Navarette durchquert haben, ging die Strecke fünf Kilometer an einer Autobahn entlang.
      Als dieser lästige Abschnitt endlich überstanden war, velief der Camino weiter Richtung Najera, durch kaum besiedelte Abschnitte.
      Hinter einem Hügel konnten wir Najera erblicken.
      In Najera angekommen, musste ich mir erst noch eine Unterkunft suchen, da ich nichts vorgebucht hatte.
      In der ersten angesteuerten Unterkunft, hatte ich Glück und konnte in der Albergue Puerta de Najera einchecken.
      Morgen geht's weiter nach Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
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    • Day 16

      Arriving in Najera

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      So I arrived in Najera with blue lips & sticky fingers. So far the "grape police" have not apprehended me in my undisclosed location 😇.I have not picked one single grape walking through the miles of vineyards on our Camino route. I believe strongly you shouldn't pick things that are not yours. Today was hot & I succumbed. Thanks Jim for ratting me out! However, the grapes were everything & more than I had hoped!

      Last night after I posted to our blog we had a lovely meal with our Camino friends in the restaurant of a 15th century hotel. Beautiful atmosphere & food was also delicious.
      Posada Ignatius https://posadaignatius.com/

      There is not a lot to say about our walk today. It was stunningly gorgeous and so many grapes 🍇 so little time...
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    • Day 9

      shorter day today to Santo Domingo

      April 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

      today was a shorter today, which was nice seeing as my last couple of days were on the longer side 😅😅 got to my town for the night at noon, which is about 2-3 hours earlier than when I am normally done walking. and then drinks w friends, while waiting for laundry - a nearly daily routine thus far 😂Read more

    • Day 11

      Etappe 8 - Nájera 2

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Angekommen in Najera gegen 12 Uhr. In vorhanden Pilgerherbergen wollte ich nach den letzten Nächten nicht absteigen. Brauche wieder eine Nacht für mich. Kleines Hotel gefunden: letztes Zimmer bekommen. Sauber und fein. Teile mir mit einem anderen Zimmer das Bad. Kein Problem. Wäsche gewaschen, hängt zum trocknen. Hoffe, dass morgen wieder alles trocken ist.
      Nach einigen kleinen OP 's an den Füßen bin ich zu einem kleinen Spaziergang aufgebrochen. Konnte noch einem Ehepaar aus Südafrika helfen, denn in meinem Hotel waren noch drei Betten in einem 9-Bett-Zimmer frei.
      Viele Pilger kommen jetzt schon mit ganz großen Blessuren an den Füßen. Sieht teilweise schlimm aus. Ich bin davon auch nicht ausgenommen, hoffe aber, dass ich morgen weiter kann.
      Trotzdem Nájera einmal Sitz der spanischen Könige war, ist dies kaum noch zu erkennen.
      Heute ist sie zur Bedeutungslosigkeit verkommen.
      Die Kirche bzw. das Kloster Santa Maria La Real bleiben das Kleinod der Stadt und sind für Spanien sehr wichtig.
      Mehr als die Hälfte der Bilder dieser Serie zeigen den prächtigen Bau. Fortsetzung folgt im Teil 2 dieser Stadt.
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    • Day 11

      Day 12. Najera

      May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Another day, another 27.8 kms, although it seemed shorter than that. I left Logrono at 7:30 am after the 7:00 am breakfast. I skipped breakfast yesterday morning to get a 6:30 start because of the long day. Breakfast is included every morning but has varying start times. Breakfast is generally a good meal here: scrambled eggs (sometimes), croissants, cheese, juice, lots of sliced meats, baguettes, cereal, yogurt, grains, and coffees from push-button machines.
      Some people have said that walking can be an appetite suppressant, but I was famished last night after not having eaten all day. I don’t eat and walk. When 6:00 came around I was looking for food, but restaurants around here do not open until 8:00pm, so I had a second beer with a group of friends. Beer is not an appetite suppressant . I then ate too many heavily salted nuts. When 8:00 pm came around we went to a Thai restaurant where I had pad Thai, but it was inordinately sweet. I was so hungry, I ate the whole thing, but didn’t feel great afterwards.
      I did wake up in the middle of the night with an upset stomach . This morning , true to form, I woke up at 5:30, got caught up on news and sports news, then had breakfast before getting on the road by 7:30.
      I have always reached my destination before 2:30; I’ve been always able to check in my room shortly afterwards, have a shower, then have my own little siesta until 4:00.
      Generally, I go out by 4:00 to connect with other pilgrims. It’s easy to I’d identify us by our limp. Tonight, I connected with Fran’s, a farmer from Hungary who had a rough first day, but is doing better, I also, met Hassan, originally from Brazil, but has lived in Florida the past 15 years. He was showing us new shoes he bought today after discarding his hiking boots that, according to him, caused the blisters. His 36 year-old son who is accompanying him feels that his father has “ feet like shit” and that’s the main reason he gets blisters. One of the cardinal rules of hiking is that you break in shoes BEFORE going on a long walk or hike.
      Has sad did share that his wife died a year ago, and that his 36 year-old son has been pushing him to do this. They will be meeting his 38 year-old daughter and 32 year-old son along the way where they will continue the walk together to honour their mother who, in Hassad’s words, “ was a good Christian woman.”
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    • Day 13

      Little Ole Wine Drinker Me (& Me)

      September 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Logrono to Najera
      Day 10 - 30 km

      We spent an another amazing day trekking through the wine fields ( vineyards). The grapes, mainly red, were ripe and definitely ready for picking ( in our professional opinion) 😏 and we had another day of spectacular views which meant we must of done some climbing, however it was an easy day ( although long…) on the Camino trail. 😍

      This morning, after waiting for the storm to pass, we headed off around 7.15. We walked through the centre of Logrono which was very impressive and after a coffee/ breakfast stop we started our long trek to Najera ☺️. After a couple of refreshment stops, and another busker on the path, we arrived in Najera around 3.30pm. Not one of our favourite stops this far, doesn’t have the same quaint feel, but enjoyed a couple of beers and wines and a nice salad. Looking forward to a shorter walk tomorrow.
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    • Day 10

      Day 7- Logrono to Najera

      September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      So today we ventured 28km from Logrono to Najera. Logrono is a very large city so took us a bit of time to exit the big city and get back to the countryside.
      So in the La Rioja region the soil is a red clay which apparently is great for growing grapes as they were everywhere today. I would guess 14 miles worth:)
      At this juncture there aren’t as many small towns we travel thru instead larger towns with more distance in between. Today a little less than halfway to Nájera was Navarrete. Has about 3000 residents and is the pottery center of the region. Would make sense based on the clay there! BTW red clay when it is wet is really soupy and sticks pretty heavily to shoes. We were lucky to avoid the rain but many puddles showed the thickness of the soil when wet.
      The views continued to be amazing along the way and we made good time as the terrain was easier today and the weather was perfect. not the hot afternoons that we had had. Looking at the weather app this may continue into next week as well!
      Nájera has about 8000 residents and dates back to as early as 923. It is known for the production of furniture. The town is nestled next to a mountain that has many caves throughout and has a very cool looking side that looks like jagged red rock!
      I think I will name today “ milestone day”
      We crossed over 100 miles walked( we are at 117.5) and we made it 7 days walking without any major injuries , a few blisters and tweaks of things but nothing major! Two good milestones to reach!
      Oops almost forgot to mention, a common picture on the Camino is one that is your shadow. You walk for hours “into” your shadow, got to admit it’s kind of cool!
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    • Day 13

      To Nájera

      September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      With walking so many miles each day, our muscles and joints tend to get sore or irritated. So, a big part of this journey is visiting the pharmacy (farmacia) for items to ease the discomfort. Earlier in our trip we needed some blister supplies and this time we asked the sweetest pharmacist for ibuprofen cream, hydrocortisone cream (for heat rash), and Fisiocream (natural arnica cream for sore muscles). She joked with us about us needing all the creams 😂

      In the USA, we can go in and get things like this right off the shelf, but in Spain you have to talk to a pharmacist who will then bring you the item(s).

      Today, we left Navarette before daylight, not because we had a huge day of walking, but because of the possibility of thunderstorms in the afternoon (which thankfully didn’t happen).

      We then spent the whole morning walking by rolling fields of grapes and climbing up in elevation before descending to the town of Nájera. SO many grapes!!!🍇 It was a cooler day and it felt nice to arrive in a town and not be so tired and drenched in sweat. My heat rash took a break today - hooray!

      Before checking in to our room, we sat under the umbrellas near the river visiting with Katrina from New Zealand (until she went on a search for a good food place), Hermione from Berlin, and 5 Americans. Then we just relaxed in our room figuring out some places we want to stop later on our walk.

      A little Nájera history: An impressive complex of caves are located on the cliffs of the mountains above Nájera.  These caves were actually man-made even before the Roman colonial period, over three thousand years ago 😳 when Celtic invasions created much instability and insecurity.

      Tomorrow, we walk to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
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    • Day 12–13

      Logrono to Najera

      September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      Well, first a confession: I'm just now emerging from a cranky, hangry phase. That, combined with the fact that Najera is just not as well preserved or charming, has colored my view of this stage. It was long (18 miles). It was vineyards as far as the eye could see, which is lovely but somewhat monotonous (I know, Camino hell!). And we had no pilgrims walking with us because many of our new friends had scheduled rest days in Logrono.

      Our midday break was in a charming town called Navarrete (pop. 2,900), where we did as in Spain and partook of a small Radler to speed us on our way. A 16th century Church of the Assumption there was stunningly ornate. Its wooden floors had me wondering why they dared have real votive candles (in addition to electric ones).

      We walked three hours from there through Rioja country. Finally re-encountered the Belgian couple who has stayed at many of the same hotels as us and got their names: Bruno and Marie Martin. Also snapped a pic of our Italian friend (who speaks no English), Rogelio.

      After arriving very tired and hungry in Najera, we found our accommodations somewhat lacking, the town somewhat ghost-y, and where there was action there was no real food. Hence the hangry spell. Found something to tide us over then picked up pre-packaged cano de lomo (more cured pork) and cheese and fruit for our breakfast and headed back to the *penthouse apartment* that is not anywhere near as nice as it sounds. Two plusses: the hosts provided a free bottle of local wine (variety unknown as they private-labelled it, but plenty decent), and it has a rooftop terrace with a view of the cliffs that are a backdrop of the town.

      Crankiness aside, we remain grateful for the chance to see how differently people live--and maybe by the end of the trip we, too, will enjoy four-hour lunches and dinners that don't start till 8 pm!
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    • Day 19

      Logrono to Najera

      September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      After a very lively noisy night outside our windows we blearily got up and set off again in the dark for another long long day of walking. People of Logrono were still partying from all the wine festival celebrations and the street cleaners were out water blasting the streets.
      It seemed quite a mission to get out of the city but it is a very pretty city , with a big river and is the capital of LA Rioja . It is a big university town, hence the feeling of being in party central!
      We finally found our way out of the city and it was pleasantly cool. We walked through more wineries helping ourselves to the bunches of grapes as hasn't had breakfast. After about 12km we walked into Navarette high on a hill (of course) . The boys had hearty bacon and eggs and us girls had delicious croissants which we felt we thoroughly deserved. We all felt a bit weary today so we just plodded along clicking off the kilometers.
      As you walk you do meet different people and today was Pamela from Indiana wearing a short skirt with huge strong legs! Lots of interesting chat with her, then a young Sth Korean boy who had terrible blisters so gave out advice on that problem. It's amazing how simple life becomes on the Camino, Rather then worrying about the leaders debate or the rugby world cup we are focusing on where the next cafe and toilet will be and what the state of our feet are. I must say I am very proud of my bunion afflicted feet! They do the job and none of our 8 feet have blisters!
      So on and on we walked with a headwind but at least it was cooling. They were harvesting the vineyards by hand and so lots of activity. We lay beside a vinyard and rested for awhile having nuts and lollies for lunch plus more grapes!
      Finally after a long hard slog through some not so pretty scenery we walked into Najerra with a quaint old town section where we are staying and it's so lovely and quiet! As we sat at a bar having a beer on arrival, Jane and I were laughing at our appearances of the delightful socks and sandal look ,but did we really care after walking 29 km ( 44,000 steps) , not at all and boy the beer tasted good! Off out soon to dine by the river and feeling rather hungry.
      I hope the awful weather in the South stops and the Warriors win! The rioja wine awaits!
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    Arroyo de Pozuelo

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