Spain
Azofra

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    • Day 11

      Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

      April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

      149 miles walked. 351 to go.

      Do you miss carbs? Or, do you crave carbs but wish you could just gorge yourself without any added weight consequences? Have I got a plan for you! All you have to do is walk an average of 18 miles a day in the sweltering heat on the Camino de Santiago and you can eat whatever carbs you desire, and sweat out whatever beverages you fancy, without consequence!*

      Seriously though, I’m eating ALL THE THINGS and simply just have to in order to replenish my body with energy to be able to either recover from my walk, or prepare to conquer the next day. So, I’ve had more bread in the past two weeks than I’ve consumed in the past year. The hunger pangs are real, and this whole siesta time for businesses closing up shop in the afternoon and restaurants not opening until 8:30 is making me crazy! Imma bout to strap a loaf of bread to my backpack and open up shop on the Camino for those of us who need a carb fix.

      But that’s been the yeast of my problems (pun very much intended). Through training over the last several months and these first couple weeks of Camino walking, I’ve worn out my insoles. I thankfully found a sporting good store last night and bought new insoles and the difference is night and day. I think I may actually be able to pull off the 351 miles left!

      This is the point in the trip where everyone is showing off their blisters to one another. I’ve seen some gnarly ones… one the size of a silver dollar on the heel of someone. Another where the blister was long and wrapped itself around the top of the big toe and down between and below the next toe. Another had so many bandaids of his feet, you could barely see any skin showing. Ouch! I’m not able show off any battle wounds, cause I’ve got none. I’m holding up. For now.

      Carb loaded. Vino blanco filled. Sleep deprived. Till tomorrow…

      * Assuming some sense of moderation, but you know, whatever. You do you. You do the Way, your way.
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    • Day 17

      Navarrete to Azofra

      May 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      I had a great night’s sleep. Albergue el Cantaro was perfect.

      We are now in La Rioja which is a wine area. And there are vineyards everywhere. And rolling hills. So it’s been quite pretty.

      Stopped in Najera and bought some pastries to eat in the park along the river for lunch. It was very busy with lots of families out as it was Saturday afternoon. There was an interesting display of weapons and uniforms by the military, I think it was a recruitment drive.

      I am spending the night in the municipal albergue and all the rooms have only two single beds in each which hopefully will give me another good night’s sleep.

      Albergue Azofra
      23kms
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    • Navarrete to Alesanco

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Today was another early start about an hour and a half before dawn, after breakfasting on some things we bought in the supermarket.

      8km of walking found us in Ventosa where we found much needed coffee and croissants.

Today was cloudy so we were spared the hot sun after noon.

      Another 8km found us in Nájera where we stopped for lunch.

      So far we’d been walking almost entirely through vineyards, some of them very large, extending over the horizon. We noticed the older vines are very sturdy and self supporting.

      From Nájera it was a somewhat unpleasant 8km trudge on bitumen roads to our pensión in Alesanco. It is slightly off the Camino but it had a room available for us.

      We walked to the pub in the center of town and drank a couple of radlers (beer with lemon, like a shandy) at an outside table and watched the passing parade. It is a very rural town and there was a constant parade of tractors pulling big bins of just-harvested grapes to one of the town’s wine makers.

      Right on 7pm it seemed as though all the townspeople descended on the pub to chat, play cards, have a drink or a snack. We couldn’t find a restaurant open so made dinner with the pub snacks, called pinchos.

      Back at our pensión we met a young German couple with 12 month old child who are cycling the Camino with a tow-along baby carriage. They had started from their home in Leipzig. They told us they had previously ridden from Perth to Melbourne in Australia.
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    • Day 23

      On garde le meilleur pour la fin !

      May 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

      Chemin de Compostelle 16/40
      Étape #9 ´´Camino francés" De Hormilla à Grañón. Kilomètres parcourus: 27 km. Cumulatif : 447,1 km, 25,7 km de moyenne par jour. Étapes restantes : 23.

      Marché en ligne droite sur un chemin sans attrait pendant plus de 13 kilomètres, c’est interminable. Tout ça parce qu’il n’avait plus de place dans les albergues à Nagera. Alors nous avons dû nous dénicher un hôtel à Hormilla (détour de 5 km). Bref ce fut très long. Heureusement dame nature était avec nous (pas de pluie) mais c’était très froid (6h : 8c et à 11h : 11c).

      Une grande pause s’imposait à Santo Domingo de la Calzada pour manger et se réchauffer après 16,5 km de rando.
      Cette municipalité compte un peu plus de 6 000 habitants. La Catedral de Santo Domingo de la Calzada est assez impressionnante car sa construction a débuté au XII et fut terminée au XVIII siècle.
      Le dernier 7 kilomètres fut des plus agréable puisque l’on a fait connaissance de 2 français. Jacqueline de Lyon (74 ans) et Dominic de Dijon (64 ans).
      Ce dernier a été 38 ans dans l’armée Française. Retraité et mécanicien de maintenance aéronautique. Ce fut intéressant de l’écouter parler car il a vu des atrocités de différentes guerres dans certains pays. Le chemin lui fait grand bien comme il dit.
      C’est touchant d’entendre tout ça (photo). Jacqueline plus discrète mais ouf qu’elle est en forme. À peine 5 pieds le sac à dos aussi gros qu’elle et marcher autant.
      On a poursuivi la tradition en prenant de 2 bonnes bières. Un « food truck » super propre avec une espagnole qui essayait de parler français, sympathique.

      En résumé, cette journée s’est terminée sur bonne note positive.

      Buen Camino
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    • Day 70

      Fazit der 10. Woche

      May 28, 2023 in Spain

      Wie schnell doch die Zeit vergeht. Ein rechtes Stück haben wir schon geschafft. Ich glaube es bleiben noch ca. 650 Kilometer bis zum Ziel.
      So vieles geht einem durch den Kopf auf diesem langen Weg. Gestern habe ich noch über die Pilger Wortdeutung geschrieben. „Das Heil suchen“ das sagt man doch heute nicht mehr habe ich gedacht, oder doch; die beiden Fotos zeigen zum einen den Blick nach vorne, den blauen Himmel und der Blick nach hinten die Gewitterwolken. Ich bin HEIL- froh liegen die Wolken hinter uns. Ich bin HEIL-froh ist der Regen erst am Abend gekommen. Nach wie vor hoffe ich wieder HEIL nach Hause zu kommen. Dann hoffe ich alle wieder HEIL vorzufinden.
      Die vergangene Woche hat mich mit dem Vergebungsweg auch sehr beschäftigt. Angenehmer ist der Weg des Weines, zum Essen in Frankreich gibt es fast immer Wein, im Moment immer ein Glas Rioja, ein wunderbarer Geschmack.
      Allen wünsche ich eine genussvolle Woche.
      Roland
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    • Day 13

      Loving the weather

      August 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Such a different day today- started in the streets of Logroño at 5:30 with the drunk arguing teenagers sitting all around the place, on the footpaths, bus stops, benches. From that moved into beautiful vineyards, with a fiery red sun into industrial blue metal producing factories- incase you thought it was all idyllic 🙃 and then into a rocky moon scape kind of area. Decided I didn't like the town I was meant to finish in so got Cait researching hostels in the next town so I would push through. Who doesn't love a hostel with a foot pool!!! 😘 Wether is crazy here 20 degrees lower tomorrow than yesterday!! Huge day today 34.66km but so much better in the cooler temp. Had dinner with a French lady I've being seeing on the track, you get HALF a bottle of wine with your 3 course pilgrim dinner- not fancy but cheap. Had to leave it at the bar cos I'm a walking tomorrow baby !!👣👣👣🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️Read more

    • Day 16

      Day 13

      September 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Left Azfroa 6.50 am arrived at Granon 1.50 pm.
      21ks
      As usual, we left in the dark and, at the beginning, very little signs to show us the way, but we made it. It was a low steep climb on an overcast day. Once we reached the top, the terrain was rolling. Had a bit to eat at San Domingo before carrying on. Found a pharmacy and got something for my hayfever.
      This part of Spain must be where they grow Sunflowers for everybody. They are everywhere.
      We are both tired, so we have decided to lie in tomorrow, so the alarm is set for 6.30 am instead of 6 am.
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    • Day 11

      Santo Domingo de la Calzada

      September 1, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Wunderbarer Abend mit wunderbaren Menschen in einer wirklich tollen Herberge gestern Abend! Ergo auch gut geschlafen und ohne meinen Rucksack 33 km gegangen und intermittierend furchtbar gehinkt. War aber gut zu ertragen, so dass ich wohl morgen nochmal meinen Rucksack verschicken werde. Sonnenbrille verloren, dafür konnte ich eine neue Sonnencreme kaufen. Mehr habe ich noch nicht verloren :). Heute Nacht sind wir in einem alten Zisterzienserinnenkloster untergebracht: 21:45 h auf dem Zimmer sein, kein elektrisches Licht in unserem Zimmer, Internet nur im Garten (!), nette Atmosphäre! Landschaftlich kommen wir gerade aus den Weinbergen heraus in eine sanft hügelige Ackerbauregion. Morgen ist La Rioja auch durchwandert und Kastilien und Leòn liegen vor uns. Es ist auch hier eindeutig zu trocken.Read more

    • Day 12

      Buena etapa

      Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      Hoy ha sido una etapa más fácil. Solo 21Km, más o menos plano, y el terreno era un camino bien visto. El pronóstico del tiempo era lluvia, pero ha salido un día soleado, aunque bastante frío y con viento frío. Quizás venía de esta montaña nevadaRead more

    • Day 15

      Azofra

      March 29 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 9 °C

      A damp day, walking through drizzle. The first part to Nâjera went alongside a highway and vineyards. After crossing the Nájera river, the path went up the valley through more vineyards and olive groves.

      Spent the night at the municipal albergue at Azofra. Two to a room, no bunk beds!!

      [Day 11, 22 km walked, 198 km from St Jean Pied-de-Port, 586 km to Santiago.]
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