Spain
Belorado

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    • Belorado to Santovenia De Oca

      September 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

      Leaving Belorado presented us with a reality check... we have 554 Kilometros to go! But looking back at our Gain, we've come over 200 Kilometros. The best thing we do is focus on the next proximate goal... such as the next pueblo where we can get a café con leche, for example.

      Tonight we stay a few Kilometros off the main "official" Camino at a muninciple albergue. But we are on the old original trail and will take it into Burgos tomorrow for a rest day.
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    • Day 14

      Belorado

      September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

      Almost 14 miles today. I sent my bag ahead again and walked with Carol. We were joined by Nessa, from San Francisco, and later on Joan. We're beginning to be the slow & injured walking club. We went thru a few small towns today and stopped in to see their churches.
      Carol, Joan and I are going to be walking together the next few days as well. We've planned out our next few days. I'm looking forward to taking a day off in Burgos.
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    • Day 16

      Belorado

      September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

      Well, the day started off with me taking Peg into the center of town to meet up with Carol from NC who she hiked with for the day and then getting an Americano, fresh OJ and a croissant for breakfast. Then I took a quick taxi ride before I started my 1 km walk into town😅. Oh, and Peg walked 22km and took all the walking photos along the way. My ankle is much better today and I am back to walking tomorrow.

      Buen Camino
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    • Day 19

      Belorado

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Dzisiejsza droga można powiedzieć prowadziła cały czas bardzo delikatnie pod górę w sposób falujący. Większość czasu przebiegała wzdłuż dość ruchliwej drogi odbijając na szczęście co jakiś czas do małych wioseczek. Nie będę wspominał wszystkich ale wspomnę tylko parę punktów. Mianowicie pożegnaliśmy się z La Roja i winnicami na dobre i weszliśmy do największego rejonu Hiszpanii Castilla y Leon, który będzie się ciągnął przez ponad 400 km. Zaczęły nam towarzyszyć przeogromne otwarte przestrzenie, z rzędami zasuszonych słoneczników.. przypominających złomowisko zardzewiałych pryszniców zwróconych w jedną stronę...
      W miasteczku Granon funkcjonuje przyparafialne schronisko gdzie obowiązuje zasada "Daj co możesz i weź co potrzebujesz".
      Piękny bardzo klimatyczny kościółek gdzie można zatopić się w myślach, a na przeciwko w barze należącym do peruwiańskiej młodej rodziny napić się pysznej kawy i soku pomarańczowego.
      W kolejnym miasteczku Viloria de la Rioja urodził się Święty Dominik. W miejscowym kościele jest zachowana chrzcielnica w której był ochrzczony a przy głównym ołtarzu jego figurka z relikwiami. Reszta drogi upłynęła nam na marszrucie w żużlowym kurzu, huku przejeżdżających ciężarówek odliczaniu ostatnich kilometrów... Na szczęście miasteczko Belorado i nasze miejsce zatrzymania okazało się bardzo klimatyczne i urocze. Mnóstwo kolorowych murali, piękny kościółek i gościnni gospodarze naszego hoteliku. Pięknie zakończony dość wyczerpujący dzień.
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    • Day 11

      Day 8 - A day of gratitude

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      “ A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” – Tim Cahill

      Day 8 - Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado - 23 km, 8.5hrs - over 36,000 steps!

      Today was a very good day. A day of gratitude, really.

      I started at 7:07 am in the pre-dawn light from Santo Domingo de la Calzada. As I crossed the bridge out of the city, I came upon another solo Perigrina, Linda from Colorado. We got to chatting and our paces were very well matched. We mutually decided to walk a ways together as sometimes it is nice to have company.

      Our first stop was the lovely little town of Grañōn. Here there was a refreshment stand and tables and chairs in a lovely copse of trees. They had instrumental music playing in the background and when we sat down, Hallelujah started playing. It just felt right to be there in that moment. We grabbed a drink and just sat enjoying the surroundings. We decided to keep on walking together and made our way to the next town, Redecillia del Camino. A short 15 mins stop for water and to look at our maps, and we were off again. I had a bed at Viliria de Rioja waiting for me, that I had booked the night before. When we got there, we both decided we would push on to Belorado together as it was the perfect walking day - cloudy, overcast and cool. Of course after the decision was made, it got warmer and warmer and the sun was trying its darndest to shine.

      We made Villamayor del Rio and had yet another stop for refreshment. We were very hot and needed that break. The little Tienda (shop) here was awesome. They are a family from Panama and the owner is a baker. He made the absolute best ham and cheese croissant! I paired this with a sweet nectarine and bottle of water. Just want I needed for the last 6km to Belorado.

      Linda and I made Belorado at 3:40 pm - 23km, 3 rest stops and 8.5 hrs after we had left Santo Domingo de la Calzada. May have taken a while and we had sore feet / ankles. But boy, were we proud of ourselves!!

      We are staying at the Municipal Albergue El Corro. Up on the second floor of course. There are 10 of us in here 7 men and 3 women. Not one of us under 50 or 55 I would guess. I dubbed it the geriatric ward LOL!

      Linda and I went for a fabulous pilgrims meal - the best I have had so far. For €14, I had a tea before with meal, minestrone soup, lemon chicken and cheesecake. All homemade, all beautifully presented. Oh - and bread and wine - of course.

      I mentioned this was a day of gratitude. I have been thinking all day about so many things I am grateful for - today and on the Camino in general. So, here are some of them:
      • My silk sleep sack. Cost a bit but I love it! Feels like a bit of luxury but keeps me warm and so far, bug free
      • My walking poles that I purchased on arrival - I wouldn’t be able to do all these undulating hills - up or down - without them.
      • My awesome shoes - they are so far keeping my feet and toes happy. Quite the feat (pardon the pun) as my toes are not usually happy toes
      • The Buen Camino and Camino Ninja apps, and my Michelin Guide and condensed Brierleys guide - these all make it easier to plan my days.
      • My times to chat on What’s Ap with family and friends - love touching base!
      • My new Camino friends and family: Sabrina and Paula (who is likely heading off this Camino to do the Portuguese route instead); Nancy, Dave and Louie whom I miss already and how Linda.

      A day of gratitude and success fills my heart. Such a nice way to go to sleep.
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    • Day 13

      Etappe 10a - Villafranca 1

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Links und rechts des Weges gibt es immer einige kleine Sehenswürdigkeiten. Viele der kleinen Dörfer fristen ihren gerechten Schlaf, wenn nicht immer wieder Pilger das Dorfleben aufmischen.
      Heute geht die Pilgerkarawane viele Kilometer durch die Kornkammer Spaniens. Sehr hüglige Landschaft, abgeerntete Felder und hohe Stapel Strohballen.
      Noch eine Bemerkung zum Rucksack: es wurde immer wieder festgestellt, dass man nach einigen Tagen den Rucksack nicht mehr spürt. Richtig, denn ich "suche" ihn manchmal, d.h. ich spüre ihn kaum noch.
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    • Grañón to Belorado

      September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

      A short day today of 16km, to be followed by a rest day. We left our apartment as the sun rose a bit before 8am. Hiking shoes had largely dried out overnight. We found the “My Way” bar/cafe in the main street opposite the church, open for business so had some breakfast there. We’d also had dinner there last night. Good food. Place is run by a Peruvian family.

      As we left town there was luscious golden morning light over the path of the Camino we would follow. The rain had cleaned the air and mountains back behind us were very clearly visible, no haze. Also as we left a small fleet of fan powered paragliders took off from Grañón heading up the Camino. Weather was coolish so long pants and long sleeves, at least for the first 2 hours. Early in the walk we crossed over from the province of La Rioja to that of Castille-Leon. This is our 3rd and largest province.

      We stopped for fresh squeezed OJ, coffee and snacks at a “donativo” in one of the villages. You give a donation in exchange for what you eat. Then on to Belorado mostly on hard packed wide dirt track. Checked into our room in the hotel “A Santiago” and had some lunch. Later on a very good Pilgrim’s dinner for two of us; 3 courses, all substantial and tasty, and a bottle of red for 24€.

      Our rest day is to give our legs and feet a chance to complete their recovery from a few niggles. Last night’s hostel was not available so we have moved to Hotel Jacabeo in the centre of Belorado. It felt good to walk only 1km for the day. As we entered the town square several stall holders were setting up for the day’s market. We strolled around the still deserted old town until we could replenish essentials at the farmacia then returned to the square for coffee and people watching.

      We don’t really expect to see people we have met along the way because we are comparatively slow. But we did see Chris who we have crossed paths with several times and a French girl we had met in Torres del Rio. A quick chat and they continued on the Way. Chatting over coffee Chris and John realised they share a birthday.

      We have an early start and 27km to cover tomorrow so we got breakfast supplies from the supermarket before the siesta close.

      Feeling good after a rest day and good pilgrims dinner (low fixed price 3 course + wine) at the restaurant inside the Cuatro Cantones albergue. We shared a table and a good yarn with a Swedish couple from Stockholm. He is 75 and she 65. Going all the way to Santiago.
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    • Day 13

      Stage 12: Santo Domingo to Belorado

      September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      I'm not sure I can write about yesterday until I recover from today but don't want to get behind so here goes.
      Sunday (yesterday) was a long day- 22.9 km/14.2 miles, 43°-59°, took me about 8 hours because I stopped every chance I got for food, coffee, water or just to sit down and rest for a few minutes, to appease the grumbling ranks. Feet were expressing doubts about the current regimen but were somewhat reassured by the frequent breaks and a massage with a sample Lush cream bar that has survived in the toiletry kit. Arrived about 5:00 pm to the only place I could find a reservation in Belarado, the Albergue Cuatro Cantones, 4 floors of dorm rooms, a restaurant and a hang out lounge. Was in a bunk room with 5 other people, thankfully in a bottom bunk. Shower room was decent and they washed and dried my clothes for some extra euros. Dinner was great, the kitchen was a well oiled machine cranking out starters, main course and dessert for maybe 80 people? Rioja wine flowed freely. Then the futile attempt to get any sleep ensued, even with ear plugs. I am now convinced I need private accommodations the rest of the way, because without the restorative power of sleep, I won't be able to complete this pilgrimage. Decided on an easy day to Villafranca de Montes de Oca tomorrow, only 11.9 km/7.5 miles.Read more

    • Day 14

      Stage 13: Belorado to Villafranca

      September 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

      So I made it the 11.9 km/7.5 miles to Villafranca de Montes de Oca today, just barely- left hip has resigned, mid back is sulking and feet aren't talking to me. It took me about 4 hours in 44°-56°, shuffling and lurching like the walking dead. I need another layer for these cool mornings, a thin fleece or windbreaker. We are staying in bed this afternoon in my cute little studio apartment (maid service is lacking, had to make my own cup of tea.) Will venture out after siesta in search of dinner. Self administered Reiki for half an hour got left hip to calm down, mid back and feet have agreed to only minimally required effort the rest of the day. Another relatively easy day planned for tomorrow, 18.3km/11.4 miles to Atapuerca.

      P.S. Beyond the whinging, I keep coming back to the central reason for this trek- spiritual pilgrimage. I've wondered if I'm going to be like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz and find that I've had what I've been searching for within me all along. Even so, there is value in making the journey, in what I discover about myself, other people, the world, God. Most days I remember to touch base with Hour by Hour and The Pilgrim's Devotional, conveniently loaded in the Kindle app on my phone. And I like to think the handmade (by Susan Chloupek) Anglican rosary I'm carrying in a pouch near my heart is praying itself, like a Tibetan prayer flag in the wind, with every step. 🙏♥️
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    • Day 19

      Belorado - town of beautiful murals.. ❤️

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Spain is full of graffiti, the amount of it surprised me. I know, graffiti is everywhere. In States there is a lot of graffiti, where we live there is a lot. For some it's art, for some it's a kind of vandalism. Everyone can have their own opinion about the graffiti. But I'm truly enjoying Spanish murals. They see like a breath of fresh air between the graffiti. The town of Belorado so far was a true murals winner. To not miss some of it, you had to have eyes around your head... If you walk forward and not turn your head back you can miss a lot of beautiful murals. Just check for yourself. Some of the pics of the murals are also from Ages. They all just make my heart happy, they are beautiful ❤️Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Belorado, Bilforato, بيلورادو, Belfuratus, 09250, Белорадо, 贝洛拉多

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