Campo das Cortes

We woke to a warm calm morning. Leaving Tony in his berth, Paddy and I headed ashore in the search of a supermarket to stock up with some provisions for today's breakfast and lunch.
When we arrived at the supermarket it was still closed so we wandered around and saw people coming down a narrow street carrying bread. We followed the trail until we came to what looked like an ordinary house but turned out to be the bakery. We got ourselves a few ‘Spanish’ sticks, fresh from the oven and for little or nothing, less than a euro each. We wandered back to the supermarket which was now open and got the provisions before heading back to the boat.

We left the marina at 09.40 and there was little or no wind so we motored slowly down the ria enjoying the scenery which reminded me of West Cork with the rocky outcrops and green fields.
At the mouth of the ria we hoisted the main and began motorsailing and once out in the open sea we unfurled the genny and with the engine off, peace reigned.
We first went north between Illa Ons and the mainland before heading north west to pass outside another island, Illa Salvora.
Unfortunally soon after, the wind changed direction and went on the nose so we had to furl the genny and motorsail.
At first we kept the main up until it became impossible to keep the sail full so we had to drop it and motor the remainder.

The wind began to increase but stayed on the nose so we weren’t able to use it. It was blowing 20 knots and increased to 25 knots as we had turned into the Ria de Muros e Noia. Unfortunally the wind also veered around and was blowing straight down the ria against us so we had to keep motoring.

We followed the north shore of the ria until we reached Muros, just around the first corner..
Paddy had been there a number of weeks before on his own boat and told us that we needed to call the harbourmaster, Pedro, on the vhf before entering.
Pedro was waiting for us and directed us to a berth before standing by to take our ropes.

We were all tied up at 18.15 after a fairly pleasant day even if we didn’t get to sail for long but we didn’t have much time to relax as the Spanish Customs arrived and ‘requested’ an inspection....and if we refused??

They were polite and professional and two went down below to search while one stayed with me in the cockpit and went through the yacht’s paperwork.
They seemed more interested in the paperwork than the search but then this was our third port in Spain since re-entering from Portugal and if we were carrying something dodgy, we wouldn’t be hanging around, would we?
Before they left they gave me a form to show to any other custom personnel that might wish to inspect us a second time.

I then had to visit Pedro in the harbour office to complete booking in as the customs had pulled rank, getting in first.
It turned out that the high season rates not surprisingly, began on the 1st of July and while they were reasonable, I would have thought that they would have been lower in order to attract more yachts in. The local authority have built the marina to increase tourism but it was only about 40% full while we were there. A pity as lower rates might improve things. Hopefully in the future more people will discover this part of Galicia as the local economy certainly looked as if it could do boost.

Paddy led us ashore on a tour of Muros (pop 8,700) which is a fairly small town stretching along the shore with high hills behind. A bit like Cobh but unlike Cobh the town doesn't climb up the hills and finishes just as they begin. It’s an old harbour town whose traditional economy is based on fishing and it looked as if it had fallen on hard times.

Paddy led us up and down every street and lane and I began to think that we'd be drawing maps for him and having an exam at the end of it. We eventually were allowed to think about food and went in search of a restaurant.
Normally we would look for the ones that locals go to but this time that didn’t work. We were left sitting for at least 10 minutes without anyone coming near us. I know they were busy but they seemed to be ignoring us and we were too hungry to wait any longer and left.
We headed a bit further along the shore where we found a restaurant that actually wanted customers and we ended up having a nice meal. The only downside is that they had the highlights of the F1 Austrian Grand Prix on a silent tv and the result was not what I wanted. Hamilton won.

While we were eating, Rohan an ex colleague of Tony and mine, rang to tell me he wouldn’t be joining us on the last leg across Biscay. His son had fallen off a garage roof and was in hospital. Thankfully his son has made a complete recovery in the meantime.
Rohan Murphy had arrived at my station a short time after me and we pounded the beat many times together. I remember talking to him about my plans to buy a yacht when I retired and of hoping to sail around the world.
Strange that over thirty years later that Rohan is now the more experienced sailor having a couple of transatlantic's to his credit.

We were late getting back aboard Eureka. We’re supposed to have an early start for Camarinas, which will be our last port before setting off for Ireland. Great preparation?

We wind is still blowing twenty two knots according to the instruments at the top of the mast but it's nice and sheltered fifteen meters lower down in the cockpit. Right, better get the head down and the zzzz’s started before tomorrow.

Leg 16 - 49 mls. Total 1665.Read more