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    • Day 35

      Day 32

      September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Left Fonfria just after 6.30 a.m., arrived at Samos at 1.30pm.
      Pitch black, cold, misty, and the path at times very uneven with rock slabs (bloody dangerous) for the first hour. 6 degrees when we left.
      It has been a long, hard day, with more rough paths and rock slabs, and the weather certainly didn't help.
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    • Day 13

      Walking Day 9 to Triacastela

      June 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      Walked e 14.2 miles today back down the mountain we walked up yesterday. It was quite cold early. We didn't get cafe or breakfast until about 9:30 when we came across a bar to serve us. I had delicious huevos y tostadas. I was walking into a small farm village, and to my surprise, un toro gránde was headed straight for me. He swayed he head and long horns, i think to designate how much berth he should be granted, he came to about 12' from me and then turned left into his barn. I remember reading somewhere in the guide books that toros get the right of way on the Camino. It was apparent on this section of the trail that the livestock use the trail as well. Shortly after that, I came across a girl and her herding dogs guiding cattle across the road and across the Camino. Today we enjoyed many spectacular vistas but i have to watch the path because a misstep could be a very long fall. Then we descended into the village of Triacastla. We found the group from Australia that we dined with 2 nights ago at the cafe as we entered the villageRead more

    • Day 43

      Soleil levant !!

      May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      6h45 heure de départ le on respecter leurs engagements de terminer le dernier 150 km pour respecter l'objectif ultime St - Jacques de Compostelle (Santigo).
      De toute nationalité le langage est devenu universel vers le but commun.
      La descente fut douce sur un chemin bien balisé avec des vues imprenables des montagnes, même si j'ai essayé d'en prendre des photos.
      Nous avons décidé de prolonger notre parcours de 9km et de s'arrêter à Samos.
      Notre dernière portion du trajet était traditionnelle et invitante, le chemin bordé très souvent de remparts de pierre, d'arbres matures pour nous protéger du soleil une brise fréquente, le chemin nous a rappelé qu'il y avait des montées fréquentes et que rien n'était pour devenir plus faciles.
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    • Day 38

      Taxi from Linares to Fonfria

      October 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      We bravely walked another 3.3 kms and the heavens opened up, the wind blew insanely hard along the ridge top, and there was sleet (just over 4000 feet at that point).

      When we reached the next village, we took refuge in a little market / café. We ordered hot coffee and used Google translate to ask the woman working if she could call us a taxi to our destination town, still 9k away.

      We arrived and our hosts have the Woodstock stoked!
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    • Day 29

      Day 26 - O Cebreiro, O my!

      October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      “We live in a fast-paced society. Walking slows us down." - Robert Sweetgall.

      Day 26 - Las Herrerias to Fonfria - 19.8 km (8 on horseback)

      Today was the day we face O Cebreiro - 8km uphill about 700 for elevation gain - 7% grade approx. Before I even started my Camino, I had no plans to walk this. I am obviously collecting experiences in this trip and therefore today I got to add a new one. I ascended O Cebreiro on horseback. It was a great experience and I have no regrets. We passed many, many pilgrims who were making the trek, and I did wish (for a few minutes) that I had at least attempted the climb on foot. Then we would round a corner and see yet more uphill and those thoughts soon disappeared! 😂. The ride was almost 2 hours long over steep and rocky terrain. The views over the fields and forests were stunning. I can not believe the farming that goes on, on the mountains. Most impressive!

      When we arrived in O Cebreiro, it was off to the local bar with Victor (the horse guy) and the 3 ladies I rode with. We (unfortunately) ended up being there for 1.5hrs. Wine, lunch, chatting. Full bellies with amazing Galician garlic soup and a French omelet with chorizo. Delicious but filling.

      I took a quick look around the town with a lady named Annette who rode up with me and who is also staying in Fonfria as I am. We had decided to walk together to our albergues. The delays in leaving meant we didn’t leave town until around 2pm and we still had 12km to walk after this!

      Then the walk. Shoot me. Hill and valley, hill and valley. We were both dragging our asses. Walking quite fast on the straightaways but otherwise slogging up hills and down. The lunch was certainly part of it. I was full and felt like I’d be better rolling down the hills! We took a wrong turn too and likely walked a good 1/2km out of our way. A local stopped to point back up the hill (yes, up the bloody hill) to say we were not on the Camino. So we slogged back to the marker and got on the right path again.

      Despite what my little Michelin book says, this whole section is not flat or gentle, until after Alto de Poio - 9km from O Cebreiro. I should have looked at the elevation on my trust apps instead. It shows a much truer picture. Honestly didn’t think we would make it to the albergues before dinner (usually 7/7:30) as the hills were never ending. We got to the top of a bitching hill at Alto de Poio and celebrated with a glass of wine and a lovely view of where we had come from.
      Still another 3.3km to go and we were searching for a taxi! None in sight though, so off we went. Rest of the walk was mostly flat-ish, so we made better time. It was actually the best part of the day! Although we were walking above a main road, the trail was shaded for a good stretch and the smell of pine forest was soothing. We finally rolled in to Fonfria at 5:40 - about 3.5 - 4 hrs after we left O Cebreiro, including our 1/2hr break at Alto de Poio. Not too shabby but man, I just wanted to check in and sleep for a week!

      I wasn’t interested in the pilgrim dinner today so sat at the Albergue cafe and had pre-packaged and microwaved pasta bolognaise for dinner. I didn’t even care at that point! Dessert was amazing - a local soft cheese (with chestnuts which are everywhere here), drizzled with honey. I am not even a cheese person, but this is a local specialty so I decided to give it a try. So freaking good! The coolest thing is, the woman who made the cheese was sitting two tables away, drinking coffee with friends. She had just brought in a freshly made wheel of this cheese, for tomorrow.

      Can’t wait to crawl into my sheets and go to sleep. Tomorrow is a new day and it’s mostly downhill, which brings a whole new set of challenges!
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    • Day 29

      Etappe 24 - Fonfria 2

      October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Habe jetzt eine kurze Pause in Fonfria eingelegt. Mittagessen besteht heute aus Reis und Muscheln - mal etwas ganz anderes.
      Da nun noch Dauerregen eingesetzt hat, beschließe ich in der Alberque A Reboleira mir ein Zimmer zu nehmen.
      Bedingt durch den Poncho, bin ich nicht nur außen sondern auch innen völlig naß.
      Alles hängt nun im Badezimmer zum trocknen, ich versuche Schlaf nachzuholen und gehe heute Abend mit den anderen Pilgern in der Auberge in den Rundbau zum Pilgermenü.
      Setze meine Wanderung morgen mit hoffentlich besserem Wetter fort.
      Heute Nachmittag kam die Sonne wieder hinter den Wolken hervor.
      Gerade gab es ein leckeres Pilgermenü. So viel Alkohol (Bier und Wein) wie in den vergangenen Wochen habe ich noch nie getrunken.
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    • Day 27

      Albergue A Reboleira

      August 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      This albergue is so good! It is very large, not in terms of number of beds, but the different spaces that we can use, indoor and outdoor.
      Many known people here: Jan, Klaus, Theresa, Nelly (I succeeded in getting the 2 French girls to meet, yay!), Carlos, Sibila and even Frédérique, the Belgian lady who was walking with her daughter (the daughter now returned home and the mother keeps walking alone). Plus many new Italians and others I never met before.
      Jan found a guitar again, but wasn't the only player today.
      We had dinner at the round building with the straw roof.
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    • Day 25

      Albergue (the best on the Caminos)

      August 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      The best albergue on any Camino, hands down. Vegetarian and gluten free dinner, amazing(!) hosts, and it’s so comfortable and warm, I don’t want to leave.

      Outside a thunderstorm rattles the landscape, inside laughter and happiness. A true mountain hut feeling of warmth and shelter.Read more

    • Day 22–23

      Day 21 Trabadelo - Fonfria

      May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      30.1 km (627.6 km from the start). 2320 Calories. 39000 steps. 6t 10min on the road. 5.7 km/h

      Great hostel last night. Family owned (with 3 kids and 3 dogs). Total chaos but extremely friendly. Super clean rooms and fantastic home made dinner.

      Unfortunately - 9 other pilgrims came from Austria, Germany and Holland - and they all spoke German. No pilgrim solidarity - I thanked our hosts for nice dinner and my fellow pilgrims for nice company - some irony was used 😂

      Today stage was BRUTAL. Third highest mountain on Camino was on the menu - and what a challenge it was. 1329m going up and 622m going down. The ascent was extremely demanding and sometimes even dangerous.

      Anyway - I walked 5.7 km/h - my body is well oiled machine and I am taking last 5 days without any issues. Still an amazing experience
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    • Day 34


      September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      It was wonderful to arrive at our accommodation. I had booked a private room, a girl needs some luxury to celebrate 🍾 a birthday, even if a little late. I also treated myself to a massage, what heaven.
      Tonight, we had a community meal, much better than anything else we have had.
      I'm looking forward to snuggling down into my cozy bed.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Fonfría, Fonfria

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