Hornillos del Camino

Here you’ll find travel reports about Hornillos del Camino. Discover travel destinations in Spain of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

22 travelers at this place:

  • Day27

    Now walking on the maseta

    September 18 in Spain

    This morning we left Burgos at 8 am, and have now started walking on the maseta- such a different world, and so beautiful. It was a 21.5 km walk along very easy gradient, though totally exposed ...the thunderstorm that was predicted for Burgos at 1 pm certainly hasn’t come here - it is cloudless and brilliant sunshine. We are in a small town Hornillos del Camino, in a very lovely casa rural, in an attic room - up to which the busy and delightful host, Samuel, carried both our bags! We have a sloping ceiling and a skylight...very cute, but I must be careful not to hit my head getting out of bed! We are both ecstatic because the wifi is GOOD!

    Now, to report from yesterday afternoon...we went to have our kindle time in the park, and out of the blue raindrops fell...we ignored at first, but it did become serious for about 15 minutes, so we took shelter in a delightful bar, where we had a glass of Rioja in Paul approved glasses!! Then, knowing the next day we started walking again, we went for dinner at 7 pm, the earliest available time! Not a spectacular meal, but we were sitting next to an English couple, who had interesting accents - he was Geordie and she was from Yorkshire....they have been living in Spain for the last 7 years, but we were amazed that they didn’t seem to have the basic elements of Spanish...asked for “vin rouge” (maybe thought it was “European”) or just spoke to the waiter in English...and difficulty explaining what size beer he wanted!! I think walking the Camino was a foreign concept to them! Pleasant enough otherwise!

    So we left beautiful Burgos, and not an unpleasant walk out of the city in the westerly direction, the industrial area seems to be mainly in the east, past the university and out into the countryside again, which gradually turned into the open undulating spaces of the Maseta. It was pretty relentlessly sunny, with occasional breeze, but we did find an oasis to have lunch - a group of shady trees where there is a well from which you can pump up very cold water....just what you need at that point. With tables and seats. Perfect. We had bought more cheese at Burgos and had apples and dates still.

    So we had strength for the last 5 kms or so to Hornillos del Camino. We had a very gentle rise, and saw it down the hill several kms away. Will try to add photos as this wifi may cope! Tomorrow another 20 kms to Castrojeriz.
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  • Day126

    Hornillos del Camino

    July 5 in Spain

    July 5th

    Today, we entered the Meseta (the flat plains on the plateau of central Spain) which is the section between Burgos and Astorga. The weather was perfect -not hot and there was a breeze that kept us cool the whole way to Hornillos del Camino. We will be on the Meseta for a few days. No shade, so we are hoping it stays cooler like today, otherwise we will break out the umbrellas ☂ for shade.

    Our albergue is very nice and welcoming with a lot of nice people staying here. Alan and I have our own room with twin beds 🛏. Yay for not having a top bunk!!! For dinner, the owners of the albergue made a huge paella dish for us with bread, salad, lots of wine 🍷and dessert. It was so good!

    The WiFi is horrible here, so not sure when this will upload. Tomorrow we continue on to Castrojeriz - another 13 miles. After tomorrow we will have gone 206 miles 😀.
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  • Day16

    Day 14. Hornillos de Camino

    September 18 in Spain

    After a day or rest, actually resting!! We've walked day 14 to Hornillos. I feel like today was one of my hardest days yet, so dry, the heat, the stones, the sun, the blisters resurfacing and the aches. But I'm here! I can tell myself I can do it and I can do it, exhausted but I can do it. The lovely hostel owner seen me struggle on arrival, pure exhaustion, she took my bag off my back, sat me on a big couch and fanned my down, never have I needed such a simple gesture so much and she new it! That's another point of this journey to help regardless of age, language barrier or finances. I will be forever grateful.Read more

  • Day20

    Up early and decided it was just too dark to try and find the yellow arrows that would lead me out of town so relaxed and enjoyed my breakfast - a banana and a sweet roll purchased yesterday.

    I did leave in the dark (got ansy), walked with an Italian for several miles and we helped each other find the directional arrows. Twice we had to ask as the direction was not at all clear. Es este el Camino? We stayed on track.

    Had a coffee in a small village as well as a neopolitan (chocolate pastry). It's amazing how great those things are after a few miles of walking.

    This was the beginning of the Meseta, the desert portion of the country. Not a lot to see but miles of rock and dirt. Local farmers must grow winter crops here as it does rain, but not now. Dirt looked very dry and the rocks were white. Spain must be the most rocky country around as the fields are just full if them, but even more on the Camino.

    A couple of long range pictures of the terrain with one looking into the town where I am spending the night. Expand the second picture for more pilgrims in the distance.

    I mentioned the challenge of finding the yellow arrows, but one location made it quite obvious. Biggest yellow arrow in Spain (well, perhaps not the biggest, but impossible to miss).

    I enjoy seeing the various bits of decoration on the buildings, etc. that are Camino related. In Hornillos the main albergue has a very attractive mural that caught my eye.

    Had a bocadillo at a cafe across the street from where I am staying and a beer for lunch. This will last until tomorrow, perhaps longer. They do know how to use up what we would consider stale bread, but when hungry, it cannot be beaten.

    Got an early am picture of the cathedral from the rear of it. Yesterday I approached it from the river and could not get a decent shot.

    This was a short walk today, but I recall when walking 13 miles was an ordeal, but not anymore. A couple of guys were walking with their dogs. Not sure whether man or beast was more tired.

    Dinner was with a Canadian, a South Korean, an Irishman, and a young man from Poland. The restaurant even had live music. This is what generates good memories.
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  • Day17

    The beginning of the Meseta

    September 3, 2016 in Spain

    The Meseta is the high central plateau of Spain, and is mostly treeless. I'm putting my hands free umbrella/parasol to good use here. I think that it takes about a week to cross. Someone could make a fortune selling these umbrellas here. Quite a few people I came upon while walking were jealous of my portable shade.

  • Day12

    Nachdem Burgos nicht so dem entsprach, wo ich gerne sein mag, hat es mich heute nach Hornillos verschlagen. Ein hübscher kleiner Ort, in welchem ich auch sofort eine Herberge fand, was schon mal lobend zu erwähnen ist. Sowas passiert eher selten, weil viele vorher reservieren und dann halt voll ist, wenn ich spontan zu ner Herberge schlurfe. Dafür bin ich so unabhängiger. Getroffen, habe ich heute nur neue Leute... Ein paar Engländer, wie immer Italiener und ausnahmsweise ein junges Pärchen aus Deutschland. In Hornillos eingelaufen bin ich allerdings mit einer Gruppe aus Kalifornien, mit der ich gleich noch etwas abhänge. Bei all dem pilgern, muss man ja schließlich auch was essen :-D.

    Link zur getrackten Tour mit mehr Bildern:
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  • Day4

    Nachdem die Wirtin extra nochmal jedem eingeschärft hat das die Tür erst um 06:30 aufgesperrt wird und bis dahin Nachtruhe herrscht...war es umso verwunderlicher das sich 4 Asiatinen um 5:30 bemüßigt fühlten alle zu wecken um dann bis 6:30 da zu sitzen und auf Auslass zu warten. Ich bin um 07:15 los und habe auf den ersten 3 klm 14 Leute hinter mir gelassen bis ich dann auf Paul (den Luxembourger) getroffen bin, wir sind dann die nächsten 17 klm gemeinsam gewandert. Ich bin dann in Hornillos eingekehrt Auberge 4 Bett Zimmer mit eigener Dusche und Toilette. Die anderen 3 Frauen sind Amerikanerinen. Paul ist noch 6 klm weiter, das war mir für den ersten Tag aber zu weit. Und ich hab ja Zeit und muss am 16.06 erst in Villafranca del Bierzo sein, weil die Liebe Doris mich ab da begleitet :-)))))). Die Herberge ist etwas teurer 15 EUR mit Frühstück, aber sie hat einen Garten mit Pool. Der einzige Deutsche hier kommt 12 klm vom Hahn entfernt ein unsympathischer Mensch ...da muss ich mich wohl morgen etwas früher auf den Weg machen um ihm aus dem Weg zu gehen. Ach ja Ankunft war um 12.01 hätte also von der Zeit her locker weiter gehen können. Es ist leider ziemlich warm, heute waren es 27 Grad...die Anderen erzählten das es letzte Woche teilweise 34 Grad waren...da stirbst du auf der Strecke und das Anfang Juni. Morgen Mittag soll es ein Gewitter geben und für die nächsten Tage haben sie 14 Grad gemeldet.....jeepiiii auf in die Meseta.Read more

  • Day6

    First day walking

    June 8 in Spain

    Finished our first day walking and it was absolutely beautiful. The sun and rain alternated but the temps were great for walking. This part of the Camino is the Maseta that some pilgrims don’t like but we all loved it. It was beautiful and green with fields of poppies. Laying down now with my feet up to see if it will help avoid swollen ankles.

  • Day17

    Day 12 - Granon Albergue

    August 29 in Spain

    The Granon Parochial Albergue is a joint venture between the European Volunteer Hospitalitero program and the local church. The volunteers man the Albergue using donations to provide year round lights,heat,water and maintenance for the church plus food for the pilgrims. Left over donations are placed in the coffers of the church. Into these dying little Spanish towns, the Camino has infused new life.

    Upon arrival I was warmly welcomed and sincerely questioned on how I was doing. This is a very important question on the Camino. So many people stumble into the first Albergue in town unable to walk another step because of exhaustion, heat illness, injured feet/legs, and the top disability- blisters.

    I was given well salted popcorn before I even took off my boots.

    This Albergue has a wonderful communal dinner prepared by the pilgrims staying the night ( I got to help with cooking-yay!) We made a beautiful soup of butternut squash and potatoes seasoned with nutmeg. That was followed by pasta topped by ratatouille. All dinners around here are accompanied by red wine.

    Our volunteer hosts always set an extra place at the table in case another pilgrim wanders in. Tonight that place was filled by a totally flattened pilgrim. In further spirit of sharing, the accommodation and food is paid for on a donation basis. The donation box is also left open in case someone needs cash to help them on their way. Pilgrims are asked to “give what you can and take what you need”. Very open handed.

    After dinner we all helped clean up and then headed through a secret passage in the bell tower into the choir of the church. The balcony was lit by candles and the alter of the church was fully illuminated. The hospitalitero led us in a time of thanksgiving for our Camino time and we then trundled off to bed.
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  • Day22

    The walk across the meseta is not what I anticipated. Frankly, it reminds me a lot of many areas of Montana. There are gravel roads traversing agricultural lands, rolling hills, arid plains, and distant mountains. It’s quite beautiful.

    Along the way I passed the ruins of the convent of San Anton. A very welcoming lady was still providing a bed and food for pilgrims at the ruins in the centuries-old tradition of the pilgrimage.

    Further on was Castrojeriz. I was due for a change in socks (blister prevention strategy) and started looking for a bench. On the way out of town was a fellow industriously raking up weeds in a little park on the corner. I asked if I could sit in the park and he warmly welcomed me with the tale of the meager production of the pear tree in his park. Only one this year. But, he insisted on sharing the pear and showing off his home next door; one typical of the style of the region.

    The older homes in Castrojeriz were built with a main room in front of a hillside. The front room of Leandro’s house had a sitting area with a waist to chest high hearth of two levels. A bit like a pizza oven. The main room also had a dining table and a kitchen area. He explained that everything was now modern with a refrigerator and dishwasher. From the front room, a stone lined passage led down into the hill behind the home. Although I didn’t see that area, it must include the bedrooms.

    Leandro, I believe, was a stone mason. He had renovated his family’s home and had also worked on the renovations of the ceiling of the Burgos cathedral.

    Leaving Castrojeriz and Leandro’s little park, I headed out of the bottoms to a hillside above. The grade up the hillside was 12% for about a mile. Going down the other side was 18%. From the top of the hill you can see windmills for miles. Judging by the numbers of windmills on the meseta of Spain, they must provide a significant portion of the power in this area. I spent a bit of time walking with a young man who is a renewable energy engineer in Italy. Claudio said that one windmill costs about 1.7million Euro and is made cost effective through tax incentives.

    The day ended in Itero de la Vega in a renovated old home which held four private bedrooms. What bliss, a quite respite from the lights, sights, and sounds of dorm sleeping!
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Hornillos del Camino

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