Spain
La Catedral de Santa María de Astorga

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    • Day 8

      Country roads

      April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      After a mentally challenging day yesterday amd a long train ride. We ended up in Astorga and stayed in a wonderful place over looking the town square listening to the church bells and watching the two stroll by.

      By 630am we were off and back on the road. Felt good to shake off the tragedy of the past day and see the dawn of a new day. Along the trail we saw many pilgrims struggling physically and those just starting their journey. Each person has a story..... Today we are in Foncebadon a small village at the top of ridge in a converted convent.
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    • Day 7

      The Palacio Gaudi

      May 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

      Another Work by architect A. Guadi who was the principal of Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. After a side chapel of the Astorga cathedral burned down he was commission by the bishop to create an Episcopal home. Work progressed, but the Bishop passed away and the new bishop wasn’t the same type of manager and waffled. Gaudi was already working on the Familia, so they had to get someone else to finish. No bishop actually lived there and it’s now a museum for The Camino, Roman antiquities, and Gaudi. The original Cruz Ferro is there.Read more

    • Day 7

      La Cathedral de Santa Maria de Astorga

      May 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      Just over whelmed. Where Leon had the windows, this had the history. Amazing artistry, some by students of Michelangelo. There are artifacts from Roman and every era you could ponder. Not to mention seminal examples of Baroque, Rococo, and Romanesque styles. There is a substantial sliver of the true cross and is one of the most treasured relics.Read more

    • Day 24

      Etappe 20 - Rabanal 2

      October 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Der Weg aus Astorga nach Rabanal war weniger spektakulär - viele Kilometer unbefestigte Wege entlang von Straßen oder mitten durch mit Buschwerk versehener Landschaft .
      Eidechsen wechselten oft den vor mir liegenden eintönigen Weg, Grillenzirpen begleitete mich bei Temperaturen von um die 30 Grad.
      Nach El Ganso wurde der Weg dann ermüdend lang. Ein Teil des Weges hat dann einen Vorgeschmack auf Morgen gegeben - Geröllwege mit einigen Steigungen.
      In Rabanal bin ich in der Auberge La Sende untergekommen - acht Betten in einem Zimmer mit Dusche und WC für ca. 30 Personen. (Schmutzige Wäsche wird heute nur eingepackt und morgen in Ponferrada gewaschen.)
      Fazit des Tages: wenn Geist, Wille und Körper eins sind , kann der Mensch viel erreichen. So ging es mir heute.
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    • Day 37

      Astorga, dzień odpoczynku.

      September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Dzisiaj czekało nas tylko przeniesienie do ulubionego Hotelu Gaudi, w którym zatrzymaliśmy się również w ubiegłym roku, z widokiem na budynek, który wzniósł Gaudi dla swojego kolegi biskupa.
      Katedry tym razem nie zwiedzaliśmy w oficjalny sposób, ale byliśmy na niedzielnej mszy. Katedra jest imponująca, ale może nie aż tak jak ta z Leon czy Burgos.
      Tuż obok jest malutki kościółek pod wezwaniem Sw. Marty męczenniczki. Była ponoć bardzo piękna i po odmowie wyjścia za mąż za lokalnego dostojnika ten ci ją tak bardzo kochał ścial jej głowę i wrzucil do rynsztoku. Wierni wydobyli jej ciało i relikwie są przechowywane w kościele. Jest ona patronką Astorgi.
      No i teraz jeszcze jedna powtórka. W ścianie przedniej kościoła jest malutkie zakratowane okienko do którego aby zaglądnąć, trzeba się wspiąć po kilku schodkach. Tam można zobaczyć celę bez drzwi. Ponad okienkiem jest wykuty w skale napis: Pamiętaj jak byłam sadzona i być może Twój sąd będzie taki sam. Wczoraj ja , dzisiaj ty.
      Były tam więzione dożywotnio kobiety lekkich obyczajów.
      Później już troszkę spacerowaliśmy po starym mieście. Byliśmy w barze gdzie podają różne rodzaje Vermuth i jako zakąski przeróżne ostrygi, sardynki I małże, wszystko z puszek.
      Oczywiście należało również zakupić czekoladę z której słynie to miasto, jest tu mianowicie fabryka tego zacnego smakołyku.
      W hotelu mamy widok na budynek Gaudiego, także dobrze się tu wypoczywa i w przerwach na przebudzenie, jednym okiem zerka się na wyśmienitą budowlę. Jedynie o drobine za głośne się wydają dzwony z pobliskiej katedry, które z uporem co pół godziny uświadamiają wszystkim, która jest godzina...
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    • Day 29

      A day in Astorga

      October 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      If you have to stay put for a day then Astorga isn’t a bad place to be. A couple of great things happened because we were here. First of all, we met up with Clair, who we travelled with for almost 3 weeks. So nice to see her again. We also met someone who lives in the same small town in Manitoba (Souris) as my cousin!! And she knows him. That is one small world!
      I’m feeling better and ready to get back on the trail in the morning. We will see how tomorrow goes.
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    • Day 3

      Day 2. Bus trip and meet the group day!

      September 9, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      1. I saw my first Camino direction sign
      2. St James in the triangle shaped under the lamb
      3. Our restaurant for lunch
      4. Beautiful view
      5. Meeting room, dinner room at the Manor house we are staying in. Cass fervenza. We are now at our starting point and start our walk tomorrow morning! So excited!Read more

    • Day 8

      The strangeness of ancient times

      May 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

      Between the façades of Iglesia San Esteban and Iglesia Santa Marta is the Celda de las Emparedadas, the small square opening between the churches (Cell of the Walled), an irregular space with a window open to the street of the Camino route, is a rare testimony to the medieval custom of urban hermits (in this case, women) being walled up for life in a small cell. The cell could be constructed next to a church or cemetery, in hospitals and monasteries, in bridges or city walls, in the middle of a city or in its suburbs. On many occasions, it had a small window open to a church and another to the street. In the Middle Ages, more women than men chose this voluntary confinement, which presented almost a luxury compared to life in a cloister. The confinement began with a farewell to the world, a liturgical ceremony with the Office of the Dead, and entry into the cell whose door was then walled up. (Brierley describes this as a “cell which housed the city hookers,” and www.artehistoria.com says [translated]: “This cell was used to lock up those women of bad morals.” However, most other sources say the women were locked there by their own choice and remained there until death, devoted to prayer and penitence.)
      In the case of this cell in Astorga, outside contact was reduced to a narrow, barred window overlooking the street. Pilgrims passing through Astorga, on their way to the Cathedral, established a relationship with them and gave them food through that window. The Latin inscription above the window says: “MEMOR ESTO JUDITII MEI, SIC ENIM ERIT ET TUUM. MIHI HERI, ET TIBI HODIE EX ECCLESIASTES,” [which translates: Remember my condition because this will be yours. I yesterday, you today. From Ecclesiastes]. Another window connecting to the chapel of Iglesia Santa Marta (to the sanctuary, when the old church that existed before the 18th century was reversed from today), allowed the women to observe the sacred offices and mass.

      The Plaza Ingeniero Eduardo de Castro is in front of the Palacio Episcopal. In the Plaza Ingeniero Eduardo de Castro is a modern, green colored sculpture commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Junta Profomento Semana Santa Astorga (1908-2008). It’s shocking for an American to see a statue with hooded figures. Turns out the Ku Klux Klan appropriated the use of hoods and gowns, apparently having completely misunderstood what was going on. The hoods are used by members of fraternal religious organizations generally called Cofradías. These groups, closely monitored by religious orders like the Franciscans and Dominicans, wear the pointed hoods which was a practice of the penitent flagellants. Flagellants were people who in order to atone for sin, would wear open backed shirts and scourge themselves with various whips and other mortification devices. They wore the hoods because they did not want to draw attention away for the religious penitence that they were practicing. So the hoods indicated a person seeking forgiveness for sins. Later teachers (possibly in religious schools) used pointy hats to indicated a child who needed to change their ways. So you might correctly conclude the The Klan in America are dunces.
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    • Day 24

      Etappe 22

      February 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      Astorga nach Foncebadon
      Meine Laune wird langsam besser. Nachdem der Start in die 22. Etappe noch beschwerlich war, konnte ich ca. ab Kilometer 12 und nach einem Kaffee sowie einer Kas Naranja (das spanische Pendant zu Fanta) beschwingt und motiviert wandern. Die Schmerzen an meinen Füssen und Achillessehnen wurden weniger und das hat mir tatsächlich eine gehörigen Motivationsschub verpasst. Vielleicht half auch die hochprofessionelle Verklebung meiner ledierten Füsse gegen die Schmerzen. Wie schön, dass ich mein Abenteuer wieder geniessen kann😍
      Gut dass mir an diesem Tag nicht bewusst war, das eingshöriger Aufstieg vor mir lag😄das Ziel der Etappe, Foncebadon, liegt derart hoch, dass die letzten paar Kilometer Schnee lag, damit habe ich nicht gerechnet. Aber es war wunderschön endlich wieder Berge zu sehen und von der Höhe aus über das Land schauen zu können! Es fühlte sich ein kleim wenig nach der Schweiz und dem schweizer Bergen an.
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    • Day 35

      Camino Day 25: Órbigo to Astorga

      September 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Total Distance: 18km
      Step Count: 32.3k
      Blisters to date: 2
      Tortillas to date: 21
      Injuries: shin splints

      After some jewellery shopping in the morning (yay! for beautiful gold Camino mementos), Lukas and I set off to Astorga.
      We took the scenic way (as you should) even though the day before we’d paid an extra 8km penalty for it! This was the first day we actually walked together.

      After León, we had entered into the third phase of the Camino: the spiritual phase. We were also getting much closer to Galicia and the landscape was starting to turn very green! The contrast to the plains was incredible!

      I spent most of the walk enjoying the new scenery and talking with my lil bro, a smart, sweet and very funny cookie.

      About 6km before Astorga, we came about “La Casa de los Dioses”, a zen like place with lots of food available to pilgrims and passers for a donation (camino magic ✨). They even had Vegemite which Lukas didn’t like 😆

      We ended up chillin’ for a while there and walked the last few Kms. Jorge was already in town when I got there so I left my lil bro with a plan to where we’d meet up again the next day.

      Jorge was on a mission to pamper me the whole day (as I was still living the pilgrim life) so he took me out to lunch, dinner and a few drinks. He also brought me some more of his mom’s anti inflammatory ointment for my shins and a sweater which would save my life this evening and during many cold nights ahead! 🧥

      We walked all around town and spent the loveliest of days together! We also realised we’re terrible tourists and took a few random snaps around midnight before we called it a day. One of them was actually at the Cathedral, a historical artistic monument of this beautiful town which we’d visited earlier. ⛪️

      Running on Spanish time (where everything happens after 8pm!) was a bit of a struggle for pilgrims who tend to get up early but today, being somewhat sleep deprived was for a good cause 😊
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    La Catedral de Santa María de Astorga, La Catedral de Santa Maria de Astorga

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