Llanes

Today’s walk was stunning, even under the threat of rain and its eventual arrival. I started the morning walking with my new friend Felix from Madrid, who was staying at the albergue just across the street. They told me they had a community dinner last night, and I got a little jealous. 🫤

We always miss what we don’t have. As I lay in my room last night all alone, listening to my sleep stories as I always do at home, I suddenly missed being in the albergue. I missed the sound of crinkling plastic bags, strange breathing noises, and someone’s obviously bright cellphone light. As I approach the halfway mark, I’m starting to realize that before I know it, I will be back at home. In my perfectly peaceful little California home, I will be wishing to be on the Camino, missing all the good and bad that accompanies it. The nights are long, but the weeks are short.

I learned a new phrase today that I’ve been using: “de vez en cuando.” Like, a girl should get a private room “de vez en cuando,” 😏 even if only because it makes her miss her Camino friends.

The walk was mostly along the coast, with gorgeous views of cascading coastal rocks and pristine sandy beaches. The geological features of northern Spain are some of my favorite parts of walking the Camino del Norte. You can see the uplift of the rocks and the layers of different rocks.

One of the best features of today’s walk was the blowhole. I stood at the top and could hear and feel it breathing below me. It was the most eerie feeling. I was both terrified and excited all at once. Feeling the transference of the ocean’s power to the earth makes you very aware of its ability to consume you. It would have been neat to watch it when the water was actually coming up through the blowhole. 😳

After walking along the bluff, the trail turned into a path through the eucalyptus forest and over a few rivers and streams. 😍 I walked with my friend Livio. Livio and I only speak together in equally bad Spanish. It’s a great friendship! 😂

We finished the day with another stunning ocean view and a descent into a small town named Cue. I think it should be renamed “Cute” because it was so adorable! 🥰

Tonight I am staying in Llanes. Llanes is a touristy fishing village today, but it’s been around since 1206. There is even a medieval tower still standing in town. It feels like at any moment, a group of swashbuckling pirates might come out of a bar on one of the streets, with a treasure map and set sail. 🏴‍☠️ The architecture is also gorgeous, and they have the same law in Asturias as in the rest of Spain: flowers in the windows at all times.

I think I have figured out the Spanish food system. 💃🏼 I have to plan my day so I arrive in town between 2:30 and 3:00. I drop off my bag at the hostel and then go out for lunch. I have a yummy and filling lunch, then fruit and maybe nuts for dinner. Today, I went to a cider house, which is traditional in this area. I saw people using these special cider-pouring apparatuses, which carbonated the cider for the table. I had cider-marinated chorizo and Fabada Asturiana. 🤤 I was such a happy pilgrim.

Not all of pilgrim life is wining and dining and strolling around town with helados. I also spent a good deal of time at the laundromat. If I ever move to Spain, I would get into the laundromat business. I can be the laundry Czar of Spain. 👑Ten USD to wash and dry a single load! For a moment, I thought maybe my clothes didn’t smell THAT BAD after all, and could go a few more days… but I don’t think the other pilgrims would agree. 🤢

More rain tomorrow. 🌧️ And I’m happy to be walking in it!Read more