Spagna
Mansilla de las Mulas

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    • Giorno 28

      D24: El Burgo Ranero-Mansilla delas Mula

      10 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

      Mileage: 12 miles
      Altitude gain: 171 feet
      Altitude loss: 502 feet
      Weather: cool, partly cloudy, and breezy. Pretty much perfect
      Total mileage: 287 miles

      I slept well in the room I ended up having to myself at the albergue. I stopped at the restaurant where I had dinner last night (veggie burger!) and had apple tart and a coffee before heading out. Another meseta day - many miles of the same scenery, but lovely weather and a flat trail made it a relatively easy day.

      I had a nice conversation with a Spanish man and when I told him I didn’t have a reservation tonight, he indicated worry for me. I *hadn’t* been worried about it before then, but then I started, and made a hotel reservation from the trail. (It probably would’ve been fine!) By the way, after our conversation, this man came back to ask me where I was from, and when I told him the US, he complimented my Spanish. !!

      The hotel is across the street from a park where children have played futbol all afternoon. It’s nice to see kids! Not all of the villages seem to have this sort of vitality. A quiet but nice day.

      1. The trail has had regularly spaced sycamore trees alongside it starting late yesterday and then throughout much of today. Counting them would’ve been quite the meditation exercise! The trees outside of El Burgo Ranero were dressed up.
      2. and 3. Most of today looked like this.
      4. There was sometimes an obviously planned forest between fields. I thought of them as “Dance Break!” Lovely to sit amongst the trees on my morning break.
      5. This guy was going backwards with his pack. Don’t know his story but it made for some nice variety. That dog was all business.
      6. and 7. The scenery got a bit more varied in the last few miles.
      8. Since I couldn’t check in to my hotel when I arrived, this is what I did. No regrets.
      9. I love this kind of detail in the villages. This is on a door of a rather dilapidated building that’s for sale.
      10. In Mansilla de las Mulas
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    • Giorno 29

      Day 25: Mansilla to León, part 1

      11 giugno 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      Mileage: 13 miles
      Altitude gain: 492 feet
      Altitude loss: 354 feet
      Weather: cool, partly cloudy, perfect
      Total mileage: 300 miles!

      I awoke to a sleepy Sunday morning village, so I headed out without breakfast. The guidebook suggested I consider taking a bus and skipping a hard and potentially dangerous day along the highway, but I was pleasantly surprised. There was some walking along the highway, but most of it wasn’t on the shoulder (which is what I had imagined). Also, I accidentally ended up doing this walk on a Sunday, so the traffic was very light.

      Today was the last day on the meseta, so accordingly there were lots of fields until the outskirts of León. The last two weeks will be more varied in scenery but I’ll have to prepare myself for mountains again!

      1. The old wall around Mansilla
      2. and 3. Very peaceful beginning to the day
      4. I love these sweet morning faces
      5. Camino art
      6. Medieval bridge over the Río Esla
      7. and 8. I’ll kind of miss the fields!
      9. Early view of León. If you zoom in you can see the cathedral on the far right.
      10. The Río Torío at the edge of León
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    • Giorno 24

      These Boots Are Made For Walkin...

      22 settembre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Bercianos - Mansilla de las Mulas
      Day 21 - 26km

      We had a great day on the trail! We were both feeling fighting fit and raring to go. 😝
      Even though we walked into a descent head wind , we had a galloping pace on, and the kms flew by. We had some great coffee stops, really enjoyed our catchups with our many pilgrim friends...met an 87 year old walking the whole way to Santiago, and he lived in Dunedin up to 15 years ago!!
      Arrived in town and couldn't find any life about, ( as is so often the case when we arrive at Siesta time! ) Shutters down, deserted streets, and silence...🤫
      Have been to a local supermarket, found tortilla, salad and wine, 🥂🥂🍷🍷and plan a night in!'
      We are very excited about our rest day in Leon coming up!! 🥂👯‍♀️🥳🥳💃💃
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    • Day 27-El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla 18km

      25 settembre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      I am sitting in the Mansilla Bus terminal right now waiting for the bus to Leon after walking 18km. I just missed the bus so I have to wait 2 hours before the next one, so I thought I might as well be productive and write my blog. Let me start at the beginning.

      I woke up in the middle of the night last night to go to the washroom and I had a brilliant idea. Why don’t I take the bus to Leon? The reason I want to get to Leon today is that my friend Christina is there right now and is leaving tomorrow. She is a couple days ahead of me on the walk. I thought about it and it is only 18km walk that I am missing and it is all along the highway, nothing of importance to see. I thought, life is about our connections, so if I go today, I can have dinner with her, then she will be off tomorrow and I will explore Leon.

      So, today I walked the 18km I was scheduled to walk and instead of finding a place to sleep, I am hopping on the bus. It is just as well. I can tell my body is ready for a rest day.

      Today was practically uneventful as yesterday, except when I burst into tears. I was walking along the road and thought I would put on some music. I looked at my playlists and I had the album “The Movie Album: As Time Goes By” by Neil Diamond. I smiled and thought, “ok, I will probably cry a bit but it will be nice to listen to this”. The reason it may be emotional is that I played this album over and over again when I was in the US just after meeting Jörg. Almost every song on the album is about love and I was falling in love with Jörg so they all had meaning.

      Some of the songs are
      Secret Love
      Can you Feel the Love Tonight
      Love with a Proper Stranger
      When you Wish Upon a Star
      Ebb Tide
      True Love
      Can’t Help Falling in Love

      Most of these brought smiles and a few tears, but mostly happy memories. I burst into sobbing snotty tears when Neil Diamond started singing “My Heart Will Go On”.

      Jörg is forever in my heart.

      Time to get ready for the bus ride. I will tell you all about my evening tomorrow.

      TTYL
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    • Giorno 31

      Bercianos to Mansilla

      4 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      We awoke in surprisingly good health after a night of birthday celebrations for our Dutch friend Toon.
      Jane and I actually had to return a bottle of vino back to the bar as there was no way we were going to drink it. We did laugh as our friendly bar man who just put a cork in it and put it back on the shelf!
      We were all in good spirits as we set off an a 27km walk in yet another dark cool morning. The moon is dwindling in size so the mornings seem darker and of course the days are getting shorter.
      Today's walk was long and a tad tedious but the endless views of ploughed red dirt and dying sun flowers have some charm. We now can see the hills and mountains of Galicia and in the distance we could see Leon where we will be tomorrow.
      There were the usual chats and laughs along the way but sadly Lee realised he had left his beloved hat behind. He was very fond of his hat but Brian had a cap he could lend so on we marched.
      Coffee and a very filling breakfast came at about 10 km . A great big potato pancake/ omelet filled with ham and cheese. That certainly revived us for a long walk until the next stop 12 km away. Luckily there were beautiful plane trees and oaks to shade us partially and nice rest areas. The trees are starting to turn.
      Podcasts music and books though were definitely the order for the latter half of the day.
      Another stop in a tiny village for coffee's and then the last killer five to crack on with.
      It's always such relief when the town of your destination comes into view and then collapsing into the cool oasis of the hotel lobby.
      After booking in we went next door to a wonderful garden bar enjoying bread chorizo and cheese washed down with cold beers.
      Another day ticked off. Our 19th day of walking and 21st day on the trail.
      In the garden bar were a group of Spanish men having wine bread and cheese like us. We were not sure if they were Pilgrim or locals but they started singing Spanish folk songs to which Brian and Lee responded with Pokarekareana which they loved.
      Then it was siesta time.
      Apparently we walked today on the longest Roman road in Spain and we followed in the footsteps of Emporor Augustus!
      Mansilla is yet to be explored but has a medieval look and is like the Feilding of NZ , known for its livestock market.
      Wifi is dodgy here but hope I can put on the musical videos.
      Tomorrow we head to Leon and will be meet up with some of the Irish family and then brother Bill arrives. Happy days
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    • Giorno 31

      Mansilla to Leon

      4 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      We are now in beautiful Leon and it seems such a change from the sleepy towns we have been in on the Meseta and we are enjoying the atmosphere.
      We had breakfast this morning in a cafe in Mansilla with quite an eclectic group of locals. It was amusing to see a group of men having some liqueur with their coffee , and then a tiny elderly woman come in and have a glass of beer. This was all before 8am!
      Last night we has a great walk around the old roman walls of Mansilla glowing the evening sun. We had a good pilgrim meal and slept well in the quiet town.
      I fear not a quiet night here as there is a festival on and we are right in the middle of town by the stunning gothic Cathedral which is a total standout with beautiful stained glass windows .After arriving in Leon and enjoying strolling through the twisting streets we had
      coffee in the main square and then a self guided tour through the Cathedral.
      The shops are very chic as is the architecture. Late lunch in the sun and a tour on a tourist tram around the main spots of Leon.
      It was so nice not to walk and could have sat on the tram all afternoon!
      Now it's siesta time and we are very much looking forward to meeting Vanessa Fiona Connor and Tim who have traveled all the way from Dublin to see us. Fun times ahead. We realise the All Blacks play tonight but I don't think many people in Leon will be watching!
      As I write this there is womans wrestling in the square! Brian of course has been down to have a look.
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    • Giorno 23

      Mansilla de las Mulas to León

      24 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 37 °F

      308 miles done. 192 to go. 62%!

      There were no cars coming. I looked both ways. There wasn’t a cross walk, so I crossed. Immediately after getting to the other side of the street, two police officers appeared and motioned for me to come to them. Immediately there was a pit in my stomach. Was I going to be arrested for jaywalking?

      The León police asked me for my passport. So, I got out my US passport and they looked at it and said excitedly, “Colorado!” What they really wanted though was my Camino passport. And out of one of their vests, they pulled their little stamp device in order to give me a stamp in my Camino passport. Then they said “Goodbye Colorado!” and walked away.

      I’m so glad I’m not in jail for jaywalking. But now I have a fun police stamp in my Camino passport (see pics).

      Toured the Cathedral, ate a huge lunch of pasta and cheese, did laundry, took a nap, met up with my Australian gals, late dinner. Tomorrow is a rest day here in León. Gonna do all the touristy things. Very long walk on Friday, so I’ll need the rest. Buenas noches!
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    • El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas

      7 ottobre 2022, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      About 20km in very good conditions today. Barring mishaps we only need to average 18km days in order to reach Santiago before our flights leave.

      As arranged, our taxista from yesterday picked us up at 7:30 in Sahagún and took us back to where we’d left off in El Burgo. With full packs today we were walking by 7:45, with just enough light to see by.

      45 minutes later we were treated to a spectacular sunrise behind us. There must have been a uniform layer of thin cloud between us and the rising sun such that the golden orb was well defined and not too bright to look at directly.

      It was 13km to the next place supplying food, Reliegos. It was cool, clear and dry weather and generally slightly downhill. More varied landscape too, with no wheat stubble in sight. Quite a bit of corn, and even some cows at one point.

      The path was very good too, shaded almost the entire day by a line of trees right beside it.

      After lunch and a foot rest it was an easy 6km to Mansilla. It seems to be a normal rural town but with quite a number of places for Camino pilgrims to stay. It is situated beside the Esla river we noticed (sounds the same as our surname “Esler”).

      Our room is in La Casa de los Soportales a very comfortable new place.

      We ate a great menu del dia of three courses and a bottle of vino tinto for 32€ for two at La Curiosa. Delicious.
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    • Giorno 25

      To Mansilla de las Mulas

      24 settembre 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      We headed back over to the main Camino route this morning and walked from El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas. Right away we ran into Nika, from Slovakia 🇸🇰 , who we hadn’t seen for over a week. 🙂

      She walked with us all day and shared about life in the village where she grew up and she asked us about life in the USA. This back and forth type of conversation we had over 5 hours of walking is the main reason we came back to the Camino. ❤️

      The Camino to us is all about the people. We had a perfect, beautiful day with Nika and then ended the day with some new friends- Finton (Ireland), Annie, Rossco, and Gaye (all from Australia).

      I have noticed the more we talk to people the fewer pictures and video I take. 🙂 So I did not have much from today.

      Tomorrow, we walk into León.
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    • Giorno 33

      Oublier et respirer

      21 maggio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Oublier, son vécu,ses erreurs, ses blessures,ses souffrances, respirer et vivre un moment pour viser
      une paix intérieure et effacer sa mémoire, parcourir La Meseta cest un peu la possibilité de se reconnaître tel que l'on est en ce
      moment même un ti gars avec deux bâtons un gros sac un petit ego et se bâtir une confiance pour atteindre l'objectif et se remémorer durant le parcours des souvenirs heureux de ton enfance.
      La simplicité à son meilleur respirer quel soulagement !!!

      ,
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