Monxas Encerradas

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    • Day 12

      Walk to Tui (part 1)

      June 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      We woke up today to a sweet napkin message from our Minnesota friends. The morning was cool and clear. We decided that today would be a shorter walk (approx 8miles) to Tui. But first, we passed through Valenca, which has a large star shaped fortress! You could look across the river and see Tui! Definitely a highlight! This is also the location of my last Pastella De Nada!Read more

    • Day 12

      Walk to Tui (part 2)

      June 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      Next to the Valenca fortress is a bridge and, after a short walk across, we were in Spain! Now my Obrigado must become Grasias and switch my Bom Dia for Buenas Dias! We toured the Tui cathedral which has the largest set of organs I think I’ve ever seen. Luckily, our place to stay allows early check-in at 1pm! Another nice, clean place with bunk beds (top is mine 😁)! Looks like it will be full tonight, although we are first to arrive. We dropped our bags off, got lunch and walked a bit more!Read more

    • Day 12

      Ciao Portugal, ¡Hola España! Act I

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      Had a luxurious lie in this morning since we were not going far today. I even took a 2nd shower! Ah, the extravagance. We walked around the shops within the fortifications of Valença after a quick breakfast and detour to a farmacia to stock up on Compeed bandages for Ellen’s battered feet.

      Then we followed the yellow arrows out of the fortress, out of town, and out of Portugal. Crossing the Rio Minho we caught our first glimpse of Tui, Spain, our home for tonight. We watched a few heats of a regatta from the bridge then navigated to our gorgeous hotel, Torre do Xudeu. As we passed through town we again spied the two German women we have been following for the past week. I think they’re on to us. This time we introduced ourselves and got their names: Ursula and Gabi. They are sisters, too.

      Checked in to our hotel for siesta then headed out to find a sporting goods store to buy more suitable gear for day hiking now that our primary backpacks are traveling ahead of us. Ellen also found a replacement for the hat she lost a few days ago as well as a new pink daypack. Tomorrow is Sunday and many cafes and shops will be closed so we stocked up on snacks at the supermercado.

      While we wandered we stopped in at the tourist info office for a map and met the delightful and appropriately named Angels who gave us very detailed directions to all the spots we wanted to go. We had a good chat about Galicia (“gah LEE thee uh”), the region of Spain we are in, and the climate changes the area is experiencing, fires, drought, etc. She said the locals are jokingly calling it Galifornia. She asked to take our picture, perhaps in case there is a suspicious crime wave or…?

      (Today was too photogenic to be contained in a single post so consider this Act I.)
      Read more

    • Day 4

      The whole nun-baking thing

      March 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Right, I’ve already been pulled-up for making an unsubstantiated claim, with this audience it is to be expected - and Kathar1na’s not showed up yet …

      This nun baking thing.

      Hope triumphed over experience once again and I called in at the convent of the Clarissa’s (the poor Clare’s, who I believe are the female counterparts of the Benedictine’s?)

      They have a sideline in selling baked goods; in the case of Tui a dozen fish-shaped almond shortbread biscuits for €10. If they’re still ‘poor’ their cost control must be abysmal, because the gross retail margin on that should be astronomical

      It’s a closed order, so the sisters don’t engage face-to-face. The transaction is conducted through a ‘turno’ as follows:

      I: ring bell
      She (see note): (sound of someone distantly sighing, putting down the ‘sporting life’ and stubbing out a capstan full-strength) (shuffling) ‘Ave Maria; Que quiere?
      I: Pescados pequeños pfv
      She: €10

      I place the cash on the turntable, it rotates at speed and a pack of biscuits appears ( see photos).

      Now; my knowledge of the workings of the various religious orders is gleaned entirely from watching Father Ted; so I might be imperfectly informed. If we were in an episode of FT ( which the only RC priest I know describes as a documentary programme); there would be almost certainly be an annual inter-nun baking competition; and it would end in violence.

      I can say with certainty that Kirkies mob would beat the Clarissa’s without mercy; because these little almond fish are virtually inedible and Kirkies loaf looks splendid.

      Are we all happy now? Can I get back to the Camino?

      Thank you.

      (Note: I say ‘she’ - quite frankly it could be anyone - even ‘Big bad Norman; 20 years on the run’. See Jake Thackeray’s ‘Sister Josephine’ via google for further details)
      Read more

    • Day 2

      Llegada a Tui

      March 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Después de un buen desayuno en Vigo tomamos el bus para Tui, en donde buscamos nuestro primer albergue. Al poco de llegar y dejar nuestras mochilas decidimos conocer Tui y sus alrededores.
      Tui es un pueblito situado entre España y Portugal por lo que caminamos hasta la frontera para tomar el almuerzo en tierras portuguesas. Luego de comer un rico almuerzo peregrino fuimos de vuelta a Tui a descansar para comenzar la primera etapa del viaje.Read more

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