Spain
Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra

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    • Day 6

      Day 6: Pamplona

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

      We left Larrasaoña at first light, hoping to get to Pamplona before some forecast early afternoon rain.

      Soon, the trail paralleled the placid river Arga. It looked ideal for cooling off on a hot day—Google Maps has a note on a section for swimming. No one was in the water at that early hour, though.

      Breakfast at La Parada de Zuriain 4 kilometers from our albergue was a nice break in our 15k hike to Pamplona. Slices of spinach and zucchini tortillas, coffees, and orange juices provided good fuel for the morning’s remaining hike.

      Leaving Zuriain, we walked alongside a roadway and then soon were climbing a flight of steps up a slope. Not too long after, we spied what we thought was Pamplona in the distance. It turned out to be Villalva, founded in 1184, per a sign in the town.

      From there, our walk continued on pavement until we reached Pamplona. As we walked along the Way, we chatted with pilgrims from England, Mexico, and Norway. More than a few locals greeted us with friendly “buen Caminos.”

      When we reached the Portal of France at the entrance to Pamplona’s old town, an inquisitive tourist from Holland was very interested in our experience on the Camino. Her enthusiasm made my pack feel just a little bit lighter. The mossy wall I was leaning it against as we chatted, helped too.

      Fortunately, tonight’s lodging, Hostal Casa Ibarrola, is just past the French Portal, so I was soon gratefully dropping my pack for the day.

      In addition to the usual stowage area for trail shoes and hiking poles, this hostal has a wall for stowing backpacks. Why, I wondered? The answer was posted in our cubes: it’s intended to prevent the dreaded bedbugs from hitchhiking their way into the albergue.

      On a more uplifting note, it’s been interesting to see how prevalent composting seems to be in Spain.

      When we’ve stopped at food trucks they’ve had a special bin or bag for organic materials, such as banana peels and egg shells. In Pamplona, there are shiny metal bins in trash can rows labeled “organics.” I’ve never seen this in Maryland, Virginia, or Florida.

      Walking around the old town’s cobbled streets reveals a lovely assortment of shops, cafes, and churches. After the quiet time of siesta, locals and tourists fill the streets in the late afternoon.

      Wandering around taking photos in the soft afternoon light, I bumped into a Canadian pilgrim I’d met at yesterday’s hostal and then into an Australian pilgrim I’d met earlier today at Casa Ibarrola. We decided to stop in at Café Iruña for a drink, which was one of Ernest Hemingway’s haunts in Pamplona. The opulent decor hasn’t changed much since then, and it was a pleasant way to rest our feet and chat about our journeys on the Camino thus far.

      Tonight, our intention is to sample some of Pamplona’s famed pintxos, known further south as tapas.

      Tomorrow, we head to Obanos, 22 kilometers away. My shoulders have been protesting my backpack after 7-10 kilometers, so in the morning I’ll put my water and rain poncho in a day pack, and avail myself of a transport service for 5 euros to send my pack ahead to tomorrow’s lodging.

      More about that next time.
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    • Day 18

      Pamplona am Tag und Fahrt gen Bilbao

      October 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      So, wir sind noch bis zum späten Mittag in Pamplona geblieben, haben noch eine Stadtbesichtigung am Tag gemacht und sind viel im Grünen unterwegs gewesen. Auf dem Weg um die Altstadt sind wir an 4 Hundefreilaufzonen vorbei gekommen, was einen wirklich erstaunt. Die Zonen sind eher groß angelegte Gärten oder kleine Parks, und laden auch zum Verweilen ein. Und unsere Beiden, vor allem Fox, konnte auch mal von der Leine und Sie hatte Megaspaß mit einem Husky-Wolfshund. Maaike fand er auch ziemlich interessant, denn die Hose ist nun übersät mit Wolfstatzenabdrücken 😅
      Jetzt sind wir am Strand von Bakio angekommen und morgen werden wir Bilbao besuchen.
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    • Day 8

      Day 5: Pamplona - Puenta la Reina

      May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

      Day 5: Pamplona - Puenta La Reina
      ~23.8 km (14.8 miles)

      I headed out of Pamplona this morning and managed to get lost. 🙄😂 It’s easy to do, I suppose, if you take your eyes off the signs and miss the yellow arrows. Luckily, a very nice Spaniard, who was headed to work, noticed me and steered me in the right direction. I wasn’t sure of my whereabouts again later, so I asked a man who appeared to be walking the Camino. He only spoke Spanish and did not understand a word of English. Don’t ask me how, but I eventually understood him and knew that I was on the Camino going exactly where I was supposed to. 😁

      I walked past a large group of young adults who were speaking English, so I asked them where they were from. They responded that they were from Utah and confirmed that they were the students from Brigham Young University traveling with their professor, who I had met in Zubiri.

      As I walked on paths between expansive fields of wheat, I marveled at the beautiful blue-green color. It was like nothing I’d ever seen before. I also love that the red poppies that are in bloom seem to multiply each day. The contrast of their color against the color of the wheat creates the perfect color palette dappled with the yellow mustard. Even the weeds are beautiful putting on a show of blooms along the edge of the paths.

      Today included a slightly strenuous hike up a hill to the Alto del Perdón, which is a wrought iron representation of medieval pilgrims. It was cold and windy at the top, but it was fun to reach this well-known site. The downhill afterwards was rocky and somewhat steep, so I was careful with each step, unlike two young, female pilgrims who almost ran down.

      I was happy to have my first private room at Hostal la Plaza in Puente La Reina. I was so exhausted when I arrived that I just laid on my bed for awhile unable to move.

      After I showered I ventured out to find something to eat and I’m learning that this can be a challenge in Spain. Most places are closed from 2:00 - 5:00 pm and dinner doesn’t start until 8:00 pm.

      I was lucky to find a bar that still had some small items leftover from earlier in the day, so I enjoyed a piece of tortilla and a beer. A young girl from Ireland, Hannah, who was walking a small portion of the Camino, joined me at my table and chatted away. She was darling and I enjoyed her energy and her company.

      After I ate, I was in search of a charging cord for the new battery pack that I had purchased in Pamplona. While walking down the street, I heard someone call out my name. To my surprise, there was Doug and Jeff from Atlanta, GA. I thought that they had stayed an extra day in Pamplona, but I was wrong. Here they were in Puenta La Reina enjoying a beer at the bar attached to my Hostal. Linda and Jeff from San Rafael, CA were with them, and it was my first time meeting them. Both Jeff’s thought that they could help me out with a charging cord for my battery pack and one of them did. Again, the Camino will provide.

      Doug, Jeff, Jeff, Linda and I all enjoyed dinner together. I also learned that Doug and I had worked for the same pharmaceutical company years before. Amazing the serendipity that you can experience on the Camino. 💫
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    • Day 15

      Days 3 & 4: Roncesvalles-Zubiri-Pamplona

      April 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      After the brutal walk to Roncesvalles, yesterday was a nice change. Still some uphill, but not unrelenting as before. But we all know that going down can be just as hard! The rock here is crazy- it literally cuts diagonal, so as you go down, you have to skirt rock edges. That was a tiring end to the longest day I’ve had yet (and the furthest I’ve ever carried a loaded pack- 13.4mi).

      Today was a slightly shorter walk to Pamplona. There was no breakfast or coffee available in Zubiri this morning, so the cafe just over 5 miles in was so welcome! I’m learning to take breaks that last longer than 3 minutes (always pushing to the end without adequate rest along the day is a big struggle for me). I’m still working on slowing down and not feeling like it’s a race with everyone else- this whole walk is about the journey after all! I’ve noticed that my body feels better when I walk a little slower.

      So far only one blister, but it’s making itself a bit of a nuisance. It’s growing, despite my best efforts. Muscles are sore, but not too painful. Finding food is a bit of a pain- I nearly cried when I saw the Greek yogurt and a gluten free section in the grocery store tonight. After eating Spanish food for the last couple weeks, it’s nice to have some variety. Dinner tonight was Burger King- I haven’t had a fast food burger in over a year, and boy did it hit the spot!

      Pamplona is the biggest place I’ve been so far on the Camino. It’s nice to have all of amenities of a city available.

      In an effort to make the walk easier, I mailed a package of some things ahead to pick up at a post office. Hopefully a lighter load tomorrow makes the walk easier. I’d been thinking of staying 2 nights in Pamplona, but the albergue I’m at is full tomorrow.

      I finally felt like being social and have met a lot of people! Tried my little French, kind of had a very basic convo in German. Lots of Aussies, Americans, Germans, Koreans, French, and many others.
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    • Zubiri to Pamplona

      September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      After a coffee and croissant at 8:00 we walked out of Zubiri in a dawn mist towards Pamplona. The terrain was gentler than preceding days, dropping about 100 meters over about 24km. The trail pretty much follows the river Arga all the way to central Pamplona.

      We had great walking conditions, cool and dry except for the early mist and a few intermittent spots of rain. Not even worth putting the raincoat on.

      Lunch was at the cafe on the river at Zuriain. Tortillas and cold drinks. We also met up with our Irish friends and other fellow pilgrims we’d met before.

      We covered the last few miles into Pamplona with a group of 4 ladies all friends from Indianapolis, one of whom we dubbed “hot wheels” because of how fast she walks. We did discover part of the speed secret: they have very light packs and a luggage service to move the rest of their gear.

      John has acquired and treated one nasty blister. It might necessitate a shorter day tomorrow.

      We checked into the Casa Ibarrol and performed the usual ritual of shower, laundry.

      John off to seek blister meds. Kevin remaining horizontal for a while.

      After a beer we went searching for food and stumbled on http://www.qwertybar.com. Wonderful 3 course fixed price menu including a glass of wine.

      A real party atmosphere in the streets enjoyed by three generation families.
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    • Day 7

      Day 4: Larrosoaña - Pamplona

      May 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      (Due to my challenge with keeping up on my posts, I will try to shorten them for now as difficult as that is for me. I will add more detail, if warranted, at the completion of my Camino.)

      Day 4: Larrosoaña - Pamplona ~15.2 km (9.5 miles)

      Albergue San Nicolas provided us with breakfast to go this morning. A sandwich, a sweet bread, a croissant, an apple, and a boxed juice. We could also purchase a coffee from a machine in the lobby if we desired, and I didn’t miss out on that opportunity. Because I walked farther yesterday than the typical stage, todays walk was quite a bit shorter.

      Paul and Brad from England, and Andrea from Germany were all heading out at the same time as me this morning, so we left together. You know you’re late to leave when there are very few pairs of shoes left on the outdoor racks where you’re required to leave them when you arrive. Albergue owners do not like dirty walking shoes indoors.

      The air was cool and the sky was clear this morning, so we were provided with great weather for walking. Andrea and Brad ended up quite a ways ahead, so I walked most of the day with Paul. Paul has strong political opinions, so that was the topic du jour. We took on issues of both the US and England and pretty much solved a lot of both country’s problems, at least in our minds.

      When we arrived in the town before Pamplona, we found a group of pilgrims, including Brad and Andrea, enjoying food and drinks at the outdoor seating area of a bar. I was happy to join them to take a break.

      Just when it was time to walk on to Pamplona, it began to rain, so I donned my raincoat and ventured on. I ran into Jane from Denmark and I enjoyed getting to know her some, and walking into Pamplona with her.

      Unfortunately, my phone died, as it has continuously been doing, so I missed getting shots of the wall at the entrance to the city and the draw bridge. Albergue Ibarrola, where I had a bed booked, was the first one on the right as we walked into town, so I bid Jane farewell and ventured inside.

      I was disappointed to find that I’d already been assigned a top bunk and my pleading got me nowhere. Backpacks were hung downstairs near the bathrooms/showers and laundry room, the kitchen and lounge area were on the main floor and the bunks were upstairs. At least the bunks were railway car style with a shade for privacy, individual reading lights, a locker and a plug for charging devices. It’s amazing what becomes important on the Camino! I was happy to see that some of my new Camino buddies were also staying here including Kristin and Duncan.

      After showering, I walked across town to an Apple authorized dealer to see about a new phone battery. Unfortunately, I was informed that my battery was fine, so the purchase of an external battery was going to have to suffice. I visited the beautiful Pamplona cathedral on my way back to my Albergue. It’s beautiful and huge, and even includes a museum.

      When I was back in my Albergue I attempted to charge my new battery pack only to find that I did not have the correct connection to plug it in for charging. As they say, however, “the Camino will provide”, and another pilgrim loaned me what I needed.

      Duncan and I enjoyed dinner at Cafe Iruña, an old Earnest Hemingway hang out that I’d previously read about. We also learned that it’s hard to get dinner at a reasonable hour in Spain. We opted to start with Pinchos and wine while we waited for 8:00 pm when we could order dinner, but the potatoes with spicy cheese sauce and the plate of cheese with walnuts filled us up so we decided to skip dinner.

      While most Albergues have a 10:00 pm curfew, and you’ll be locked out (and turn into a pumpkin) if you’re not inside by then, tonight we were given a door code to let ourselves in. Morning comes early on the Camino, however, so we headed back early to call it a night. It has been a big fourth day on the Camino and we were just getting started! 😴
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    • Day 7

      Drinks with Alberto, Carolina, et al

      August 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

      Met some new pilgrims for tapas including Sarah, Americans John and George

      Alberto is leaving tmw so we had drinks when tapas ended

      Walked Alberto back to Jesus y Maria albergue and walking back, Aysha called out to me so we compared notes on the camino. She is staying another night so we may not meet again. Got a photo again since we reminisced about the first night. I told her I will cherish that memory :)

      She camped just beyond Zubiri and saw headlights in the morning (could have been me since I left at 6am that morning)
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    • Day 3

      Larasoaña

      July 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Endlich in Pamplona. Ich musste über 20 km laufen. Unterwegs war ich in Larasoaña - da war ich vor 25 Jahren schon einmal mit den Berghaus-Jungs. Es war so schön - allein schon der Name - welch ein Klang - „Lara“ wie lind und „Soaña“ ein Traum. Diesmal war alles still dort, keine Menschen, kein Café. Nur ein schüchternes Mädchen, das mir einen Stempel in meinen Pilgerausweis gab. Dabei drückte sie gefühlte 30 Sekunden auf das Ding, wohl um es sehr korrekt zu machen.
      Dann zog sich der Weg an einer riesigen Magnesium-Fabrik vorbei das liebliche Tal runter - nicht ohne mit kurzen steilen Aufstiegen jedes Dorf am Hang mitzunehmen.
      Schließlich bin ich an Arre vorbei gelaufen, weil ein Schild am Weg die schattigere, zwar etwas längere, aber am Ende doch schnellere Variante am Fluss entlang und nicht über den Berg empfahl. Aber eben an Arre vorbei! So habe ich dann noch schlappe und zähe 5 km dran gehängt, um dann hier in Pamplona das letzte Bett in der Herberge zu bekommen.
      Meine Füße wage ich nicht anzuschauen.
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    • Day 4

      Etappe 3- Next 20km

      February 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

      Heute ging es auf 20km schönstem Wanderweg, vom kleinen Örtchen Zubiri in die pulsierende Stadt Pamplona, welche für ihre Bullenrennen bekannt ist.
      Maria hat Ed und mir die Stadt gezeigt und uns in den Spanischen Brauch des Bar Hoppings eingeführt. Eine Freundin von ihr, Lorena, wohnt in der Nähe von Pamplona und so kam es, dass wir am Ende zu fünft durch Pamploma zogen. Denn Lorena brachte auch noch einen Freund mit, Jhavier (CEO des grössten Tech-Unternehmens Spaniens😲)- war ein günstiger Abend für mich, er bezahlte sämtliche Tapas und Vino Tintos🤷‍♀️
      Did nächste Etappe geht nach Puerte la Reina, dort haben Ed, Maria und ich bereits wieder 3 Camas in einer Albergue für 7€ reserviert😊
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    • Day 6

      PAMPLONA, Spain 10.5 miles

      July 4, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      Mantras
      I am grateful for the people who have supported my journey long before the Camino began.
      Pain is understanding.
      I am stronger than I think.
      The Camino will provide.
      Don’t be a superhero.

      With me on the Camino are the spirit and thoughts of my family. I am exhausted so this is all I have today.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra

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