Spanje
Palas de Rey

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    • Day 40 -Portomarin to Palas de Rei -26km

      8 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      I got the last bed at the albergue at the first one that I stopped at after a long hot day again. I was awake around 6am, but it was too early to get out of bed. I decided I might as well do my morning ritual (brush teeth, take medicine, fix hair etc.) so that when it was late enough, I could just get up and go. It really is a guessing game. I want to start early enough so to finish early before the sun is too hot, but then I don’t want to go too early and miss the scenery.

      I decided I would leave the hostal and go get some breakfast before I leave. I got a chocolate croissant that I ate right away but got a sandwich to go. Peggy arrived at the cafe after a large tour group of Germans so had to wait a bit for her food. I think we ended up leaving around 7:30am. We walked together for about 2/3rds of the day. I ran into Matt (guy from LA) so I walked with him until the end. It is kind of funny now. I really don’t get a chance to walk alone too much now, but I don’t mind. There are so many people on the trail, you might as well walk with someone and talk, because that is what most are doing.

      It was a long 26kms today. I was trying to get a bed before reaching here, but I knew the chances were slim, most of those in the small towns were full. I didn’t mind, as tomorrow will be a shorter day.

      I am sitting waiting for my laundry to be done. I didn’t do any washing the last couple days so there would be no hiking tomorrow if I didn’t do it. I am looking forward to not having to do the hand washing laundry soon.

      Ok, I am keeping this short. The scenery today was nothing spectacular, in fact, mostly boring, so not many photos and no video. Let’s hope tomorrow is nicer. I don’t have to leave until 8am so that will be nice.

      TTYL

      Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal

      Well, saying I am in a crappy mood now about sums it up. I was fine until dinner but that was the straw that broke the camel’s back. I AM SO SICK OF GERMAN!!!!!!!!!!

      We started out in fog again today. The ground was wet so I decided to wear my poncho to start off. It soon came off when I realized there was no rain coming and I was getting hot. We hiked to Portomorin where we stopped for coffee and groceries. Seeing the old ruins in the river was kind of neat. We stopped and had lunch in Gonzar and then continued to Ligonde. It is here where things started to go down.

      The albergue in Ligonde was nice but there was nobody there and no one working there. Joerg really wanted to be with people as we were alone yesterday. I really wanted to be alone but I could tell he wanted to see people so I agreed to go one 1 km more. Well, he got his wish. We are jammed in a room with 18 beds, barely room to put bags. The showers are 2 together so you have to share the space.

      The funny thing is, I didn’t mind the room (I have had worse), but I wanted some time alone so Joerg went for a beer and I went for a walk (after my shower). I kind of felt bad leaving him alone (though he was with a couple Germans) so I eventually came back to sit with him. Well, they continued to speak German so I buried my head in my guide book. When I even asked the woman a question in English (Did she like travelling alone), she answered “yes” and then proceeded to explain in German why. Holy Crap … and I was the one who asked her the question. To top it off, she spoke perfectly good English.

      Well, it was time for dinner and they joined us so it was another hour of pure German and me staring out to space. I couldn’t take it anymore, I just had to leave when I finished my dessert. I went for a little walk, then just decided to go to bed early. So here I am at 7:30pm writing in my journal.

      Joerg I know feels bad, but in some ways I think he should. The very least he could do is try to translate some of it for me so I don’t sit there like an idiot. Next time ... I am not going to let myself get into that … when the Germans arrive I am just going to leave.

      (Excerpt from the next day in the Journal)

      Well, the evening yesterday ended very nicely. Joerg came to bed all nice and drunk so I took advantage of him just like I warned him earlier. He was asking if he was the problem and I said no and we would talk about it tomorrow. And we did talk about it. I explained that sometimes I would like to be alone, simply for the reason to be alone and nothing to do with him. I also talked about the translation thing and he apologized. He usually does do a good job but there was none at dinner.
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    • Dag 39

      Palas de Rei and Boente

      8 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

      October 8-9

      Yesterday was a hard day. Physically, because we did 16 miles and mentally, because our bodies are tired and want to be done. Plus, there are way more people on the Camino because many people start at the 100k mark and also because some of the other Caminos connect here.

      Our quiet mornings are now pretty busy with newcomers who have fresh legs who speed past us at times. We have had to adjust a bit.

      So yesterday we ended in Palas de Rei tired and a tad bit grumpy - actually, quite grumpy 😂. But, a good rest and an early start this morning turned into a great day! Nika joined us after our first stop and walked with us all the way to Boente. The miles fly by when you can share them with someone. She, too, had a hard time the day before and called us her “Camino Angels” for walking with her and brightening the mood. 💕 She’s ahead of us now, but we hope to see her on the 13th in Santiago.

      Don and Maryann are a bit behind us, but they will get to Santiago on the 12th like us. 🙂

      Special Moment of the Day:

      There is a group doing the Camino called J’s Crew. The “J” stands for Jen Schuringa. Jen suffered a debilitating traumatic brain injury in a car crash 10 years ago and she is doing the Camino in her wheelchair with the help of her crew of 15 friends and family. We talked to her dad today when we noticed he was walking very slow and limping. He broke his toe, but he’s not quitting - he felt if Jen can do it in her wheelchair with her Crew then he can do it with a broken toe. ❤️ Jen and her Crew are spreading the message that not even a traumatic brain injury can permanently rob you of community, purpose, and joy. You can read more about Jen at Jenschuringa.com

      Tomorrow, we walk to Salceda. 29.28 miles to go.
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 29

      Day 25 - Palas de Rei to Castaneda

      24 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

      The last three days we have had a “word of the day”. First was “savor”, yesterday was “grind”, and today we started our word of the day with “gratitude”.

      We have been reflecting on how thankful we are to have the time and means to complete this journey. And we are most thankful for Dave and Michelle, as well as all of our friends and family, for supporting us for this last month.

      We woke up refreshed and hit the trail at 8:45am. Surprisingly there were just a few pilgrims on our walk out of town. We were geared up for rain all day but the rain stayed away for the first few kilometers and we did our usual peeling off clothes as the hills emerged.

      We rolled into the first town (see video) and we were blessed with a full breakfast and a few of our favorite pilgrims wandered in.

      We started walking after breakfast and hit our Madrid high school boys, 98 of them, and we walked most of the day with them.

      We were making great time and then it started to sprinkle and then a down-poured ensued. We were soaked and quickly pulled into a cafe in Melide. We had lovely late lunch of octopus and our favorite mixed salad and mixed veggies.

      After lunch and drying out, we realized we had a lot of kilometers to get to our Casa in Castaneda. We hit the trail and once again ran into the boys, mud, hills, and consistent on and off rain.

      At 5pm we still had 4 miles to go. The only pilgrims we saw were the boys and us. The last 2 miles were some of the steepest incline we saw all day and top 5 of the whole trip. Even the boys were huffing. Note- we did this incline with muddy, slogging socks and shoes.

      Julie had it and pulled over to put on fresh shoes she bought in León and was carrying for just this occasion.

      The Casa we booked was “off” the Camino trail 1-2 km…which we thought would not be a big deal. We booked it as they did our laundry and it was out in the country away from the crowds.

      Well, little did we know there was no trail, sidewalk or road with easy access. We attempted to talk to several townspeople with no luck and said let’s hoof it. We walked in ditches, dodged cars on a busy freeway and crossed a cornfield to reach Casa Milia at 6:40pm breaking our record for latest arrival.

      We walked in drenched, sweaty, muddy, totally exhausted. We checked into our room, which had no heat and a full bed (not double twins). Showered, put our laundry in a basket for the ladies to wash and had dinner. We were quickly asleep by 10pm.

      Today we walked 26km / 16 miles

      2 days and 50km to Santiago. Rain expected all week.

      Buen Camino!
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 9

      Forth day

      15 april, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Hola it’s Eloise

      Sorry I forgot to do this yesterday it has been a full on week.

      Yesterday we walked 10 Oman’s saw lots of cool things like more giant bees 🐝, a gumtree forest and lots of scallop shells! And don’t worry I got lots of pictures.

      Now before I forget it’s time for Spanish word of the day today’s word is Gracias witch means thank you.

      Gracias everyone for reading this blog

      From Eloise
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    • Dag 10

      Palas de Rei | 25 km

      10 mei, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Na, was fehlte noch bei den nächtlichen Vorkommnissen? Genau! Die Asiaten! Die wollten sich auch noch im Blog verewigen. Um bei “die Asiaten” konkret zu werden: Chinesen. Mit den Landsleuten habe ich ja schon so einige spannende Erfahrungen sammeln dürfen. Nicht nur beim Reisen, auch beim Zusammenleben während meines Auslandssemesters.

      Letzte Nacht hatten Daniela und ich ein 6er Zimmer, wovon 50% der Besatzung Chinesen waren. Tatsächlich ist es sehr spannend wie viele Chinesen hier auf dem Weg sind. Echt eine hohe Anzahl. Dabei fragt man sich: Wie kann es sein, dass Chinesen, die sonst innerhalb von 4 Tagen “Neuseeland machen” wollen und immer in Eile sind beim Reisen, da sie so wenig Urlaub haben, hier den ganzen Weg über mehrere Wochen durchziehen? Das passt doch nicht zusammen. Also wurde etwas nachgeforscht und tadaa, ich habe eine Antwort bekommen: Es ist ein neuer Trend bei Chinesen, um ihre Bewerbungen aufzuhübschen. Damit wollen sie ihren Arbeitgebern zeigen, wie belastbar sie sind, dass sie täglich an ihre Grenzen gehen können und nicht viel Schlaf brauchen. Ach cool, bei den Arbeitsbedingungen in China sich auf solch eine Art beweisen zu wollen. Als ich das hörte, wusste ich gar nicht was ich sagen sollte. Meiner Meinung nach ist das Missbrauch am Jakobsweg und mich macht es traurig, da es den eigentlichen Wert und Gedanken dieses Weges nicht gerecht wird.

      Ok, zurück zu den 3 Chinesen, ohne Kontrabass, in unserem Schlafsaal letzte Nacht. Ein Kontrabass hätte wirklich noch gefehlt - der hätte mich auch nicht mehr geschockt nach den letzten Nächten. Also 2 von denen waren einfach nur am Ersticken interessiert, denn sie schlossen alle Fenster so gut es ging, machten es komplett dunkel und dann die Tür zu. Als ich fragte, ob wir ein Fenster aufmachen könnten, da wir sonst zu wenig Sauerstoff im Raum haben für die Nacht, wurde dies mit einem Lächeln direkt umgesetzt. Einsicht ist doch gut. So dachte ich. Als ich kurz auf der Toilette war, um mich bettfertig zu machen und wieder kam, war das Fenster wieder zu. Daniela vom Hochbett oben, hat natürlich mitbekommen, was während meiner Abwesenheit passiert ist. Also ging ich zum Fenster und öffnete es wieder und blieb einen Moment dort stehen. Wollen wir mal schauen wer länger durchhält - also ich konnte in dem
      Moment schon sagen, wer gewinnt und setzte gedanklich alles auf mich. Und so war es auch. Da haben sie sich die Falsche ausgesucht, denn: Bei Erstickungsgefahr keine Kompromisse!
      So ließ es sich gut schlafen. Dann ging um 5:30 Uhr ein Wecker und ich dachte mein Schwein pfeift. Die dritte Asiatin im Bunde hatte nun ihren Auftritt. Es wurde 45 Minuten lang rumgeraschelt. Sie packte ihre Sachen. Naja, sie sie packte etwas, um es dann doch wieder auseinander zu nehmen. Und das in Plastikbeuteln! Regel Nummer 2 (nach: “Gutes Schuhwerk ist das Wichtigste”): Keine Plastikbeutel benutzen, da diese zu sehr knistern und alle anderen stören, wenn man flink am Morgen oder Abend packt. Also flink war es schon mal nicht, sondern eher Konkurrenz zu der Italienerin vom Vortag und nur nervig wegen der Geräusche und ihrem Handylicht. Ich hörte Daniela von oben säufzen. Ich dachte jeden Moment: “Naja, gleich hat sie’s, dann ist sie fertig und geht.” Diese Frau hatte eine Ausdauer bei ihrem Packspiel, das war nicht normal. Also sagte ich ihr an der Tür auf Englisch, dass sie viel zu lange beim Packen braucht und es nicht höflich den anderen Personen im Zimmer gegenüber ist, wenn sie so viele Plastikbeutel nutzt. Sie verstand anscheinend nur “Plastic” und hielt mir ihre Wasserflasche hin. Ich winkte ab und drehte mich um. Um die frühe Zeit hatte ich nun wirklich keine Lust auf weitere Diskussionen.

      Da Daniela und ich nun eh wach waren, nahmen wir unsere Sachen, gingen leise aus dem Zimmer und packten im Flur. Reine Könner.

      Es ging im Nebel, noch vor dem Sonnenaufgang, um kurz vor 7 los. Heute hatten wir eine längere Etappe vor uns, mit über 500 Höhenmetern, daher wollten wir vor der Mittagszeit einiges schaffen. Auch aufgrund des Wetters: Es sollten 27 Grad werden. Spoiler: Es wurden 27 Grad.
      Wir hatten einen guten Schritt drauf und kamen zügig voran. Der Nebel und die Wolken verzogen sich nach und nach und es wurde schon vor 12 Uhr sehr sonnig und muggelig warm. Zum Glück gab es immer wieder einen leichten Wind, dadurch war es erträglicher als gedacht.
      Es ging an einigen (gemähten) Feldern vorbei, auch mal an Schnellstraßen, durch kleine Dörfer und heute viel Nadelwald. Immer wieder interessant, wie sich die Vegetation über ein paar Kilometer so verändern kann. Es roch auf jeden Fall lecker nach Tannennadeln und gemähtem Gras.

      Heute gab es auch wieder Hunde zu sehen. Beispielsweise sehr entspannte Schäferhunde, die bei dem warmen Wetter im Schatten lagen und ihrem Dienst als Wachhund weniger nachkamen, einen schwarzen Labradorwelpen, der sich von mir am Bauch hat kraulen lassen und einen älteren kleinen Pudel, der kaum noch laufen konnte und daher von seinem Besitzer im Rucksack getragen wurde. Das war schon sehr süß und der Hund happy (siehe Foto).

      Daniela und ich zogen stark durch und waren 14:20 Uhr am Hostel, das etwas weiter weg vom Weg lag. Bei der Kilometeranzahl sind ein paar hundert Meter dann auch egal. Nach dem Einchecken gab es erst einmal ein leckeres Pilger-Menü bei “Danny Café Bar”. Das bisher beste Menü mit tollem Service für 14 Euro. Wir hatten dort eine super Zeit und wirklich gutes Essen - endlich mal wieder. Das vermisse ich hier doch etwas auf dem Weg. Bei den Angeboten für Pilger geht es oft nur darum, diese “irgendwie” schnell und günstig satt zu kriegen. Und das war bisher meist nicht schmackhaft. Daher hatten wir heute ein umso schöneres Erlebnis bei diesem kleinen Restaurant.

      Danach wurde erst einmal geduscht in viel zu kleinen Duschen mit viel zu heißem Wasser (was nicht verstellbar war). Das hatte ich auch noch nicht. Und ich dusche ja schon gerne relativ warm, aber das war einfach nur unangenehm. Danach nochmals raus, ab zum Supermarkt, um Obst und Getränke mit Geschmack einzukaufen. Zurück im Hostel plauderten Daniela und ich eine Weile und machten uns später am Abend einen kleinen Obstsalat.

      Nun liege ich mit eingecremten Füßen in meiner Koje, der Erste schnarcht schon in unserem Zimmer mit 29 Betten und ich habe die Ohropax griffbereit. In dem Sinne: Guten und erholsamen Schlaf allerseits!
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    • Dag 24

      San Tirso

      11 juni 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      Santo Tirso has many churches dedicated to him owning to a cult like following. Saint Thyrsus is a venerated martyr who died in Phrygia after suffering many tortures. Eventually his persecutors took a saw to him, but half way through it became too heavy to manage and he was dispatched by beheading. That is why his device is the saw you see here on his right. You’d think he would be the patron saint of lumberjacks, but that is reserved for Simon the Apostle who died in a similar manner.Meer informatie

    • Dag 41

      37 Portomarin – Palas de Rei

      6 september 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Es ist keine Karawane – es ist eine Lawine. Weil: eine Karawane trägt eine Last und zieht langsam dahin. Das trifft vielleicht für die „echten“ Pilger zu. – Diese Menschenmassen kann ich eigentlich nur mit einer Lawine vergleichen. Entweder du passt dich an, oder wirst mitgerissen. Unterwegs gibt es dann ein Seitental, in das die Lawine umgelenkt wird. Eine mit einem blauen T-Shirt mit einer gelben Muschel drauf bekleidete junge Animateurin fischt die zur Lawine gehörenden „Pilger“ raus und sie werden in weiße Transporter mit der Aufschrift Xacofácil – was so viel wie Jako-leicht bedeutet – verfrachtet. Wer weiß, wo es dann hin geht. – So, und nun darf der laute Kike wieder auf den Schoß und wird milde lächelnd angeschaut.
      ~
      Es sind immer noch viele, viele Pilger unterwegs. Es geht halt auf Santiago zu. Heute Morgen bin ich im Dunkeln los. Ich hatte mir 25 km vorgenommen und es sollten wieder einige Höhe zu überwinden sein. Das Wetter war frisch und es blies ein kräftiger Wind. Dann begann es auch noch zu regnen. Doch nur kurz, ich konnte mich unterstellen und nach 10 Minuten war es vorbei.
      Die Pilgermassen sind beeindruckend. Ich glaube, ich habe immer so an die hundert Menschen in meinem Blickfeld gehabt. Die Bars sind voll. Ich muss anstehen. Aufs WC gehe ich erst gar nicht. Da stehen noch mal 20 Menschen davor. Vor einer Kapelle dasselbe. Aber nicht, weil die Traube die Kapelle bewundern möchte, sondern weil es dort einen Sello/Stempel gibt. Den brauchen wir ja für unsere Urkunde. An einer engen Stelle im Weg kommt es zu einem Stau, der sich nur allmählich auflöst.
      ~
      In Palas de Rei – ja, das habt ihr richtig geraten, das heißt: Palast des Königs – hatte ich schon vorher ein Zimmer reserviert – so konnte ich stressfrei laufen. Und erstaunlicherweise lief das Laufen richtig gut. Allerdings war ich auch fast acht Stunden unterwegs.
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 58

      Long walk to Palas de Rei

      24 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Well, it was a long walk for those that walked! 23.86 kms according to Amr. And it was as usual a beautiful day, cool to start, warmed up and now cooling off in the evening….and the walk was through more Galician countryside, undulating, no huge ups and downs but quite long, and the distinct aroma of dairy farms!

      I, on the other hand, met my Italian friend, Marilina, and we shared a taxi here at 11 am. For the first time an almost silent and unsmiling taxi driver…but he delivered us here and splitting the cost works well. So then Marilina and I had quite a while to wait - the hotels don’t do check in till 2pm, so we walked around, saw the church, found our hotels (and she managed to leave her bag in her hotel when a bag deliverer opened the door and she popped it in! We had a sandwich and OJ and finally it was time for check in. A new hotel for us, right in the centre and right on the camino (or very close) and fresh and perfect with a very helpful and friendly woman on reception who calls me Rosemarie every time I come and go…I think she was happy I did it in Spanish, and she spoke slowly and clearly and it was a good success. And she was excited when I reappeared with Amr…these personal things tend to make your day!

      So I went up to meet the walkers as I saw they were getting close, and walked a couple of kms, and we were able to guide R and R to their accommodation which was where we had formerly stayed…if you didn’t know it was hard to find, so that was good…sort of cabins just before you get to the town itself…

      So we met after a bit of downtime and they went off to the mass, and we tried to find somewhere to eat…the recommended place didn’t take reservations, but when we turned up had a wait of an hour for a table…so we found another place and had a great meal…I just had a tureen of the Caldo Gallego which is the delicious soup - cabbage, potato and white beans…so good, and it was my whole meal, instead of trying to fit in another course. Amr had pulpo, R and R shared a Spanish tortilla and we were all happy.

      Tomorrow to Melide, only 15 kms…Marilina and I meet at the bus stop to get the 9.35 bus, but she is going to Arzúa where we go to the next day…her husband is walking a long way…ours is broken into 2 days…needed after the long hard days. So I will have many hours to explore Melide as will be there by 10 am…!
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 16

      Palas de Rei

      5 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Today was a long day! Started misty but became hot. Again lots of crowds, but I easily found a bed at the first Albergue I asked, San Marcos. Saw some familiar faces. Had icecream with Justine and we again ended up in the same Albergue and room.Meer informatie

    • Dag 17

      Walking Day 12 to Palas de Rei

      6 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

      16.7 miles today, fairly easy terrain. We started with breakfast in our apartment because we weren't sure if we would find a cáfe right away. It was very foggy until 9am or so so we couldn't see much. We crossed the river and headed up a steep incline. It was difficult to keep up with Nick, but i spotted the Australian woman with the pink socks. Her pace suited me better so I walked with her A few days ago, we climbed the mountain into O'Cebreuro together. Her name is Rachel and her husband was right behind her. She is a teacher and she reminded me of my friend Anita D. We walked together 5 miles.A little later I passed by a Spanish woman in obvious pain with her feet. My Spanish is good enough that i could ask her if i could help her , i told her i had Advil if she needed it. She started her Camino in Ponfarrada. Shortly after that there were 4 peregrinos attending an older woman who had fallen. She insisted she was alright but she looked like she should call it a day. Next i had a short conversation with a USPS retired letter carrier from Orange Co. CA. At the top of a long climb up a hill, i meet Tracy, a retired Chemistry teacher from Long Island and her daughter Grace. They started their Camino yesterday in Sarria. We walked together about 2 miles. I rested a few minutes and started back to walking with Chris from somewhere near San Jose CA. He is an improv musician and was carrying his alto saxophone with him. I walked with Chris into Palas de Rei. He said he may play on the street tonight. Today felt a lot more like the Camino than yesterday. It was still more crowded, but it seemed that the larger groups had broken up, and it didn't seem as congested as it did yesterday, but it was a little hotter today. In the evening we congregated, Chris, Bosco, the USPS retired and his brother and a few others i didn't recognizeMeer informatie

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    Palas de Rey, Palas del Rey, Palas de rei, 27200

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