Spain
Pamplona

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    • Day 10

      ‘Pomp’lona

      September 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      After a really hot day with a very brave but overpowered airco, we gave KEX21 and us a cool down in a nice Pamplona hotel and get ready for the ride to Bordeaux tomorrow, where we will pick up Theresa!Read more

    • Day 20

      Sunday in Pamploma

      April 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Got up leisurely today, had breakfast at about 9 in our very perfect Hotel Europa. In the evening the dining room is a Michelin star restaurant. Then we went out wandering rather than walking! Found the Camino, and where to walk out tomorrow - always a bit tricky exiting at city, then walked to the cathedral, tried to find where we should have walked in yesterday, and generally enjoyed the ambience and the good weather.

      It finally is fine, with a few clouds, but there is a breeze which feels it is coming from the snow on the mountain tops. It was about 7° and we needed all our layers. We hadn’t counted on quite so much cold, (though not complaining!) and need to wear all we have! I think I am the only person in Pamplona wearing sandals with socks - the only alternative to my walking shoes which are drying from being washed…(though still look filthy!). And my feet are so comfy…We had a coffee and ColaCao at the Hemingway cafe in the plaza.

      So we walked round the walls - each time we come here we discover new things…we found a path just outside the walls which are so huge and still intact…a medieval army would have had trouble penetrating this city! Very pretty with the leaves budding, and we finally found the entrance we should have taken yesterday when entering as pilgrims, via the Puerta Magdalena, and over a drawbridge. We bought 2 jamon and cheese half baguettes, one to share for lunch, and one is wrapped up and in our room fridge for lunch on the walk tomorrow.

      In the afternoon I sat in the plaza - there are so many seats for people to sit and watch the world go by… families with children playing, dogs, and cafes around the edge. I read my kindly while Amr had a bit of a walk - thought he may go to the museum of Navarra, but it closed at 2…so while we were sitting in the plaza we heard a band and lots of noise, and a procession of a jazz band came in surrounded with people waving tinsel-decorated umbrellas and dancing - attracting even more people, and they stopped by the rotunda and played and the crowd started dancing, and more joined them…a very happy scene. (In 2013 we saw spontaneous dancing in the plaza too, but this was different!). Then the band marched on and stopped in another plaza - we followed them and watched - the musicians were dressed in suits - but then after the next round of music they were all given a beer from the nearby bar…a fun Sunday afternoon experience! Amr has made a 10 second video which may show the ambience.

      Now just back from dinner. Before we ate we had another walk through the park, which looked over the “moat” where they have deer, peacocks, geese, chooks all wandering round…and we walked around another section of these massive walls and into the citadel area, which is now a park. Just beautiful! We found a great eatery where you could just choose dishes, not have the menu del dia, which entails 3 courses. Highlight was an octopus dish. Now back, clean and sorted for the morning’s departure. It will be about 23 kms I think, but it should be fine weather and we are ready for it!
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    • Day 19

      In Pamploma, another muddy day!

      April 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      We are in Pamplona, a walk of 22 kms, but it was quite an effort. Today it wasn’t the slithery downhill, but the constant mud after 4 days of wetness…you just have to be so careful and slow. Yesterday we didn’t get to Zubiri till about 4.30-5, and today we arrived in Pamplona at about 3.30 having started at 8.30….long days, and we are both quite weary and happy to have a non walking day tomorrow.

      We are having fun, but I hope the promised sunny weather starts tomorrow…it was supposed to clear up this afternoon, but it was still drizzling when we came back from eating just now. Anyway, the day started well and fairly easily, track ok and quite easy…but soon the narrow muddy paths became prevalent. We stopped for a break at about 11 and had a Spanish tortilla (sort of frittata, not Mexican tortilla) . At a chapel along the way a man was telling us of a better route into Pamplona where you deviated from the Camino and on to a wide concrete path along the river instead of going up the hills along yet another muddy path…sounded good, and we looked out for where to find it…Amr was a little nervous of going off the True Path and getting lost, but I was adamant that we should try, and we found it and were so happy! But sadly I think we left it a bit early - there was a camino looking sign that pointed to Santiago and we took that and found ourselves in some outer suburbs and boring industrial area…we persisted and finally Amr turned on Google maps to direct us…we knew there must be another 5 kms or so to go and there was. Funnily we ran into an English couple we had chatted to earlier and they had taken the conventional path and we found it had joined up with us. They said they had seen us from the high muddy path and were jealous and wondered how we got there!! Walked with them till they went into a shop for provisions, and Google took us another way, direct to the hotel, and we entered Pamplona a completely non camino way…we got to the walls - so high and daunting for our weary legs, and saw there was a glass lift to the top!! So we took that and found ourselves quite close to the bull ring which is not far at all from the hotel..so all was well and we have settled into this very comfy room, Amr took all our clothes to the laundromat, we have cleaned off the worst of the mud on our boots discreetly in the bath tub, but they still look dirty!

      Then we ventured out, had a wine and pintxos, and more and a huge salad at another place where we have been before - everyone out on a Saturday night but I think we are hitting the sack. Not a lot of photos today, too busy watching our step, but the countryside is still so lovely, and we are seeing our crops of wheat about 6 inches tall and lovely green fields…just what we hoped to see on a spring camino!
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    • Day 13

      Zubiri to Pamplona

      September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      So I awoke to this morning with my dearly beloved slapping himself and hearing the words of " take this you fkn bastards! I thought oh dear this is a very aggressive way to start a new day on the Camino but it turned our he had been attacked by the Zubiri mossies all night and had had the worst night ever with no sleep. Anyway we started our walk in the semi dark and climbed out of Zubiri with bells ringing , horses grazing and the Arga river running beside us. We could have been walking up the Hinemaia river.
      However it's day 3 and our bodies were starting to feel a little weary. I got my first blister at the base of a toenail but my fellow pilgrims were doing OK. Main problem was tight calf muscles
      Anyway the walk of 21 km proceeded in pretty warm conditions. We walked 5 km before we had breakfast and the hard case cafe owner wanted to know when he heard we were kiwis how the ABs were going...this is in Spain! We then met a German couple whose son didn't suit the "" German schooling "so sent him off to Otaki college in NZ. He loved meeting us, especially when we said we had a house at Waikanae.
      So on and on we walked the 21 km but it seemed a long way walking into Pamplona especially going through the poorer areas but then the old walls of Pamplona appeared and we walked through into the buzzy old city part and was amazing. It's Saturday night here and the town is humming. Have had an amazing meal of tapas in a bar hanging with parma hams.
      We will certainly sleep well tonight and thankfully have a rest day tomorrow.
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    • Day 7

      Jaca

      May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

      Jaca lies in the foothills of the Pyrenees about 30 kms from the Spanish / French border Our bus ride from Pamplona in the Navarro region south east to Jaca in the Aragon region was an easy two hour journey through wonderful and familiar landscapes.

      After the Camino Baztan we had another week to play with to make our way back to Lectoure. We decided on Jaca as a starting point to walk some days ‘backwards’ (ie not in the direction of Santiago) to France on Camino paths we’d walked before - the Aragones and Arles. If that makes sense!

      Another reason for this choice was to visit the Monasteries of San Juan de la Pena. Although Domi and I had been to Jaca before and I was here a second time with our friend (and Camino walker) Jill - we’d never taken the side trip to visit the monasteries. So glad we did today. Nothing short of extraordinary. Photos to come in a separate post.

      In the meantime, a few snaps from Jaca. ❤️
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    • Day 17

      Day 17 Pamplona Casco Antiguo - Old Town

      October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

      Still biding time in Pamplona, being well looked after by The French. Can’t say there has been much improvement in the walking situation. But I’ve managed to hobble out for meals. Happily thé fabulous Plaza del Castillo is nearby. And a restaurant a few doors from our hotel has become a favourite, only partly due to the fact that it’s close.

      We’ve decided to take a bus to Estella tomorrow. It’s a lovely town, a little further along the Camino. Lucky to have found an apartment in the centre of the old town for 3 nights. We figure by Sunday I’ll know whether I can start walking again or not.

      Hope so - if not, we will be disappointed, but it’s not important. With all that’s going on in the world, we know we are lucky to be here and we count our many blessings. 🙏

      In the meantime a few photos of Plaza del Castillo and ‘our’ restaurant a few doors down. ♥️🇪🇸♥️
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    • Day 7

      Walk to Pamplona

      September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      A little bit of everything today, including wooded paths along the river, inclines out in the open, cafes for pilgrims, and of course the streets of Pamplona, beginning with the ancient Puenta de Magdalena.

      All the right parts of us were either full or empty when we started out (😉), which helped us make good time. Got a little cocky thinking we had shaved an hour off the walk and then realized we had only arrived at essentially a suburb of Pamplona and had another hour to go. Still, we got to the city in time for the back end of the lunch scene. I resisted getting yet another jamon y queso, opting for other pintxos (tapas, in Basque) instead.

      It's hard to want to walk around a hilly city when you've spent 13 mi on your feet to get there but we saw a few key sites, got our pilgrim stamp and enjoyed *una copa de vino tinto, por favor* at Ernest Hemingway's hang. Apparently, our tiny hotel room overlooks the street where the bulls run, so we're glad to see it but not be here when that happens!
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    • Day 3

      Gaucho Cafe & Bar

      August 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      Found this great Cafe to get beer and tapas or pintxos. The food was amazing, the walked the street of where the bulls run, unfortunately no bulls in sight. Then ended the evening at Cafe iruna where Hemingway was said to send a lot of time. The Plaza we looked out even had a live band. Night life starts around 8 in spain...off to bed then taking a bus to St. Jean in the morning.Read more

    • Day 7

      King in the castle ooh la la

      March 29 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      I've felt strange not walking today, which is an example of how worryingly quickly we adapt to situations.

      I was in two minds about staying an extra night, but discovering an unexpected bath on check in pulled me right out of that.

      As a result of the LIES I have a bunch of provisions I don't want to carry tomorrow so I've been diligently working my way through, from the bathtub and the bed. It's hard work but it's honest, you know?
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    • Day 19

      Pamplona

      April 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      A hilly one today with no friendly tailwind. But bumped into Aussie Steven on his Brompton somewhere in the middle which passed some time. I left Rioja almost as soon as I arrived and am now in Navarra. There's a strong Basque influence here with double names for most places (Pamplona is Iruna). The language has many z,x and qs so will be a strong hand in scrabble. Still lots of vineyards- and increasingly pointy mountains on the horizon. The route criss- crossed the Camino so if you couldn't see the hundreds of walkers you will here their walking poles tap tap tapping in the bushes.
      Fortunately no bulls running around the streets but lots of bull/ shit paraphernalia
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Pamplona, Iruña

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