Spain
Parque de la Concordia

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    • Day 27

      Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

      May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      I am actually behind on my social media postings! A lovely walk between Astorga and Rabanal. We decided to take the detour and pass through a quaint village in this region which is decidedly the most picturesque of all the villages I have passed through. If I could have stayed in this village, I would have, but we were committed to the next village, so between Astoraga and Rabanel we had a lovely 20 km walk.

      For such a short day, I seemed to be busy. We walked and arrived into town just in time for the end of lunch. So at 3 pm, I ordered a bowl of vegetable soup. It was delightful and honestly just homemade vegetable soup, but after a day out, it was very welcome.

      At 7 pm in the village, the village monastery, so in this case, at least 3 monks, sang vespers at 7 pm. It was inspiring listening to the chant of this service.

      After the service, many of us all ended up in the same restaurant, and so though we were at tables for 2 or 4, there were many conversations going on, and Julie, from Australia, was celebrating her 63rd birthday, and soon we were all singing Happy Birthday as the waitress brought cake.

      I included it in the pictures but there is a small chapel outside of Astorga where a young boy fell in a well, and when his mother begged for mercy, her son was saved from a certain death. Now there stands a small chapel, and if a person drinks water from this well, you will be safe in your travels. Needless to say, I emptied my water bottles and replaced it with this particularly special well water.
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    • Day 28

      Rabal del Camino to Molinaseca

      May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      After so much time on the meseta, it is hard to imagine hills again, but today on our 25 km walk there were no shortage of hills.

      The day began with a steady climb for about 7 km to Cruz de Ferro followed by a 15km + descent into Molinaseca. While we climbed 400 meters in the morning, by the time we arrived in Molinaseca we have lost nearly 1000 meters. Though it was over at least 15 km, in many spots it was steep, and for the most part a rough trail of granite/slate rocks. A wee bit tricky. For those of you who know the Outlook hike at Predator, as you reach the top and then the first part of the descent, it is very similar but for 15 km! Very hard. I feel a bit beat up after today's hike, combined with quite a bit of sun/heat. I am thankfully no worse for wear, but I have to be so vigilante about me feet. I stopped about 3 km in, and retaped, and reset my socks etc. because it wasn't quite right, and I knew I would pay dearly if I didn't deal with it sooner rather than later. You would all be very surprised how it is possible to hike in the same shoes, and be four weeks in, and still be combatting new blisters, and healing old ones.

      Today is a special day though. Cruz de Ferro began its life a pagan temple where because it is the highest point on the pilgrimage Frances, for 2500 years people have been leaving a rock token at this oak tree stump that in later years was adorned by a cross having been adopted as a Christian rite. Today, there are many opinions of the Cruz de Ferro ranging from it is an eyesore and a dump to a significant ritual on the passage of the Camino. Last night at church at 9:30 pm, the priest blessed the rocks that were to be left. (9:30 is definitely my bed time, so my sacrifices are not blessed), but it was regardless of whether this is only a pagan ritual, I felt rewarded when I left my stones.

      I carried my two stones for over 500km with the sole purpose of leaving them. I was reluctant. As I stood before this ancient monument surrounded by the stones of the others who left their mark, a person is reminded of the burdens carried by all people. The people 2500 years ago carried their burdens and left them to their god in this spot. Today, the steady stream of pilgrims arrive in this place, all having brought and sought freedom from the burdens they carry. When you stand upon this small mountain, and you add to it your burdens, I like to believe that the prayers and faith all who crossed this mountain path, pray with you and you pray for them.

      I am lighter because I acknowledged that which burdens me, and even, if for a day, with God's love, I felt a moment of reprieve. It lasted all day...and for that I am thankful.
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    • Day 24

      Leon to Ponferrada

      May 13, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

      Hello from Ponferrada, Spain. First off, Happy Mother’s Day to my Mom...thank you for all of your support! I took it easy today and got myself to Ponferrada. I stayed in a small hotel last night so, unlike an albergue, check out time was not until noon. That enabled me to sleep in and take my time this morning. I also got my flight booked to come home this morning. I have an 8:30 am flight on Friday the 25th out of Porto, Portugal landing in Boston at 1:20 pm. An 11 hour flight but I lose 6 hours with the time difference. I will take the train or bus to Portland and Connor is picking me up there. I met up with two older gentlemen from London last night in Leon. They had just arrived and begin walking to Santiago today. They are taking the easier method of walking the Camino....they walk until they are tired and call someone from their booking agency to drive them to the next town. We met up at a cafe and when they learned I had been walking for almost three weeks, they wanted to here some of my stories. As it turned out, we had dinner together and had a great political discussion among other topics. The really great part?...they bought the wine!...which was the really good stuff! I arrived at the bus depot in Ponferrada at around 3pm. I had a 2mile or so walk to find the Camino path and a place to stay around 4:30. I ended up in a small albergue. I had dinner tonight with an engineer from Frankfort, Germany and a physician from Barcelona, Spain. Again, great discussion and food. Tomorrow, I am on the trail again...15 miles to the next town. I will enter the province of Galicia in the next couple of days. Galacia is very mountainous and the scenery is stunning I have been told so the photos from here on in to Santiago should be great. Galacia also has a huge Celtic influence so that should be interesting to see. It is also known for its seafood...especially octopus and I will be trying that out for sure. It is also very mountainous, so I will be grinding up and down huge hills once again. That’s it from here...I hope this finds everyone well!Read more

    • Day 14

      Molinaseca to Ponferrada

      October 4, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      As I write this, I am sitting next to the Knights Templar Castle in Ponferrada which is my end point. This phase of the Camino is over after 150 or so miles. I will spend the night here and travel to Madrid in the morning. So, a small hotel in Madrid tomorrow night and catch a plane home Saturday morning is all that is left. It has been a great trip and I met great people along the way. I managed this trip much better as far as keeping my feet healthy and the whole planning part of things. There are a lot of people from the United States, Western Canada, Australia and Germany out here...I saw more of these nationalities then any other this trip. I really only met two people that I didn’t care for and both were obnoxious entitled women from Cape Cod. The French people that I met this time along the way were great! As always thank you for checking in and I will see you all soon. Thanks!Read more

    • Day 53

      Into Galicia

      October 3, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      We left El Acebo and picked our way down so carefully into Molinaseca thru a river of rocks Molinseca appeared to be shut as we arrived and there was not much to be had in the way of food or drink so we ploughed on to our destination at Ponferrada. This is the home of the Knights Templar stronghold. The castle is in the old town and we were lucky as it was free to enter on Tuesday which is when we arrived. It's quite a large complex that has been modernised and made accesible but I thought that in doing so it had lost a lot of its charm and had become a bit of a knights templar world. Afterwards We sat and had a, drink, a delicious sangria for me and a tuna empanada in the square it was oh so yummy. Tuna empanadas are a Galician speciality and we are almost out of león province and into Galicia.
      We stayed in a nice albergue with fresh sheets on the bunk beds and a home cooked meal. They had a kettle too so I had 2 cups of tea. Ponferrada is 200 klms from Santiago so only 200 klms to go.
      I can hardly believe we have walked 600 klms. My feet know though! 😲
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    • Day 34

      1000m lager

      August 10, 2020 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Wauuuww wat een prachtige afdaling! Ik wilde eigenlijk elke 10m wel stoppen om te genieten van het mooie uitzicht ;p Nu zit ik ff op een terrasje in Ponferrada. Wat drinken en eten, ennn even uitzoeken of ik hier ergens een powerbank+stekker en naald+draad kan vinden.Read more

    • Day 24

      Ponferada

      September 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Uff. 27km bei glühender Hitze. Bin die erste Hälfte mit Amanda gelaufen, aber die ist soo lanhsam, dass es wieder anstrengend ist. Also bin ich die zweite Hälfte, gestärkt durch Breakfast beer mit Raphael gesprintet und so sind wir vollkommen fertig in Ponferada angekommen. Dort hatten wir eine sehr nette Herberge in einem alten Häusle mit nur 18 Betten.
      Wir sind dann raus, aber die Stadt war tot. Tot! Da war nichts los und selbst in den Restaurants könnte man kein essen bestellen, also mussten wir spaniens Döner noch eine Chance geben. FEHLER. Die machen Döner halt mit Ketchup. Bahhh.
      Damit war unser Tag dann gelaufen. Haben uns anschliessend nur noch die Burg angesehen. Abends sind Raffi und ich noch raus um uns von innen zu desinfizieren und haben mir Antihestaminika gekauft um meine 79 Bed-Bug Bisse zu behandeln.
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    • Day 25

      Tag 24 Villafranca de Bierzo

      May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Ich startete heute in Ponferrada, einer Stadt, die ihren Namen "Brücken-Pforte" in jeder Hinsicht verdient. Es ist, als würde man eine Pforte zu einer anderen Welt öffnen - einer Welt voller Geschichte, beeindruckender Architektur und natürlich dem emblematischen Templar-Schloss, das den Ort dominiert.

      Die Reise führte uns weiter nach Villfranca del Bierzo. Dieses kleine Städtchen ist wie ein verstecktes Juwel, eingebettet in die Berge und gekennzeichnet durch seine wunderschönen mittelalterlichen Straßen und Kirchen. Es ist ein Ort, der dem Herzen eines jeden Pilgers Flügel verleiht.

      Trotz der Vorhersage von Gewittern war der Pilgergott heute großzügig und schenkte uns traumhaftes Pilgerwetter. Sonnenschein, ein leichter Wind und der Duft des Frühlings - was will man mehr?

      Ein besonderes Highlight des Tages war eine Unterhaltung mit einer Amerikanerin aus New York. Sie hatte eine etwas andere Perspektive auf die Situation in Deutschland. Während hierzulande oft von wirtschaftlichen Schwierigkeiten die Rede ist, scheint diese Ansicht in den USA nicht so verbreitet zu sein. Wahrnehmung ist eben eine interessante Sache.

      Mein Pilgermenü nahm ich heute schon um 15 Uhr ein - fast wie eine rebellische Handlung gegen das ungeschriebene spanische Gesetz, dass Restaurants erst um 20:30 Uhr öffnen. Nach dem Essen gab es noch zwei Bier mit einem Pilgerbruder - nichts besser als ein gekühltes Bier nach einem langen Wandertag.

      Jetzt heißt es früh ins Bett und die Füße schonen. Wer weiß, was der Pilgergott morgen für ein Wetter uns bereithält!
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