Parque del Espolón

The word Camino is a beautiful Spanish word. It means 'the way' and this term has been used for many Caminos which join the Camino Frances which is the one most taken to Santiago de Compostella.

Inigo Lopez de Loyola, or Ignacio, which was his name before he took the Latin name Ignatius, decided to become a peregrino or pilgrim and set off on his own pilgrimage to the Holy Land in 1522. He would have been familiar with the Camino de Santiago and seen many a pilgrim before he became one himself!

He began his walk from his home in Loyola and instead of going north via Pamplona into Navarre country, where the French had occupied, he would have walked through Spanish territory to be on the safe side! This led him down to the town of Logrono where we crossed paths with his way- the Camino Ignaciano as it is now known.

From Logrono to the village of Navarette, the two paths become one and then the Ignatian path veers South heading for Montserrat and Manresa and eventually Barcelona. The Camino Frances continues West toward Najera and onward about 570k to Santiago. This is our path!

Logrono sees us leave Navarre behind and enter the next region of La Rioja- famous for its Bodegas vineyards. I'm pretty sure these would not have been around in 1522 when Ignatius passed through! I think he would have walked closer to the river, following its path to the next valley and bringing him to the next town or village. The hillsides would have been thick with forests also- a hazard for pilgrims due to being ambushed by bandits and thieves.

It was very hot walking, without much shade and we struggled over the long stretches into Navarette. I pondered how Inigo did this with a limp! A pilgrim staff must have been a much needed piece of equipment.

Flanked by jagged edged mountains ( what would the contour intervals be like on the map here boys?) and following the river Arga as we walked, Logrono was a lovely town with a huge Cathedral and they run bulls through the streets too- El Torro is alive and well here! See pic!

However, I can understand Ignatius wanting to go to small villages- people are so warm. This village also had its share of trials- evidence of many sieges and attacks- no wonder they were all built on hills and fortified! Most of the old city had been ruined, the church being the only building surviving intact.

There was also the ruins of a medieval pilgrims hospital there he probably visited- the walking must have been so difficult. Bruised feet, injury, illness, fatigue and hunger would necessitate a stop at a pilgrim hospital.
However, no pilgrim hospital for us, a bed, a meal and sleep was all in order! We are very fortunate- these simple things were given with such kindness and care.

Walking with Ignatius- muchos grathias and Buen Camino!Read more