Spain
Puente la Reina/Gares

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    • Day 8

      Puente la Reina

      September 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

      Longest hike to date for me and Peg at over 17 miles. Started off walking the silent, dark streets of Pamplona and then back to climbing. One thing is clear, in Spain, switchbacks are for wimps.

      After a nice stop at the steps of a church for a Camino breakfast we started the climb over Alto del Perdon (check out the video to see the amazing view). From here it was a fast and hot downhill into our stay for the night. Very clean place with a good pilgrim’s meal. Tomorrow we are back at it.
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    • Day 15

      Pamplona to Puenta La Reina

      September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Today we were once again up early and setting out of Pamplona at 730am in the semi dark. It was a great walk out passing parklands and the grounds of Naverra University. Pamplona waterblast and sweep their streets every morning so a nice time to walk!
      Once we had got out into countryside it was a long uphill walk with a nice cool breeze to ease the climb. We had walked about 6.1 km
      before having a much needed coffee and something to eat!
      We carried on climbing until we reached the top named Alto del Pardon. It has huge wind turbines and a row of wrought iron ancient pilgrims looking quite spectacular with views of the valleys all round.
      The farm land below was all ploughed up and sown with grass seed and big piles of freshly harvested hay. Not one stock unit to be seen. The land is clay and rock.
      After the joy of getting to the top..altitude 780 metres we then had the not so joyous descent on rocky steep paths. Again our walking poles were a godsend.
      On we walked with not much protection from sun and through a couple of sleepy little towns where the locals were probably looking out their window thinking silly fools walking in the heat of the day!
      We found a great bar 5 km before our destination and lovely to be in the shade having a cold beer but it did make the last 5 km a long way home.
      Puenta LA Reina is a cute medieval town famous for its Roman bridge. The hotel is also quaint and the restaurant looks to be serving great food so will be enjoying that soon. We keep seeing the same pilgrims and we haven't mentioned the rugby to the Aussie couple. Brian has just been down at the bar with the Welsh man comparing notes. A couple of us pilgrims are sporting blisters but we just taking 1 day at a time. I had to don the socks and sandal look for part of the walk today! We will surely sleep well tonight
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    • Day 18

      Privilégié de la vie 🤗

      May 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      Chemin de Compostelle 12/40
      Étape # 5 Camino francés" de Puenta la Reine à Estella. Kilomètres parcourus: 24,4 km. Cumulatif : 333,7 km et 25,3 km de moyenne par jour.

      Pourquoi avoir choisi ce titre aujourd’hui “Privilégié de la vie” :
      Pendant cette randonnée, en comptemplant l’immensité des paysages, je réalise comment j’ai de la chance de marcher sur ces chemins mythiques, avoir une santé pour réaliser ce rêve c’est une sensation extraordinaire. Avoir aussi le pouvoir de contrôler son énergie malgré les difficultés des montées interminables.
      Le chemin ne me fera pas de cadeau, c’est à moi de comprendre et d’accepter ces difficultés, voilà.

      “6h15 on débutait notre 12e étape.
      Après 2 heures de marche et plus de 7 km de parcourus, nous arrivons dans un magnifique petite ville : Cirauqui en espagnol ou Zirauki en basque. On en profite pour faire une pause petit déjeuner. Puis au 13e km, une pause méritée pour se ravitailler dans cette belle ville. Que c’est beau cette ville de Lorca, municipalité de 93 000 habitants.
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    • Day 11

      Pamplona to Puente la Reina

      May 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      The walk out of Pamplona was flat and very pretty. We steadily climbed to Alto de Perdon and the view from there was worth all the effort. There was then a very steep descent but after 20 minutes it became a little gentler.

      The route was crowded and noisy as it seemed many locals took advantage of the beautiful weather and May Day. And it was a bonus to have half a dozen older Spanish men singing national songs all the way down, it made the time pass in a very special way.

      I have my first top bunk but in a room of just four. And with a window that opens right above me!

      Hotel Jakue
      25kms
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    • Day 8

      Pamplona to Puente la Reina

      March 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Do you know what a waste it felt leaving a 12 noon check out opportunity at 7am? Biblical. I did enjoy turning a light on as soon as I got up, what a treat. I'm well rested but I've also broken my routine, lost my mates, and shown muscles I'm trying to exert dominance over some leniency, which I'm hoping won't lead to mutiny.

      I think moving forward, rest days might be the rare exception. I couldn't wait to walk again, even if it is still BLOODY RAINING. After a few more days of this I think the sun comes out and the temperature doubles. We'll see. I'll complain about that bridge when we cross it. With rain comes mud, and the learning for today is that on the trail (as, if I can be so bold, in life) sometimes it's quicker and cleaner to go through than around.

      I had heard that many locals will do a bit of the Camino over the Easter break, and sure enough the trail was crawling with Spanish families and groups. It's been by far the busiest stage yet and brought a very different vibe to the albergue*, but good on them.

      It felt so good to be walking again, and I know I bang on about flow-state all the time but I was in it for long stretches of the day. That's largely down to good wayfinding, come to think of it. I was chugging along down from the wind turbines when I saw a car, which was odd as it was nowhere near where a car should be. Then I rounded the corner, thinking about the car, to see a man crouched in a bush with what looked like bolt cutters and a determined expression on his face. I stopped, he stopped, and making cautious eye contact, he snipped a piece of the bush off with the secateurs, inviting me to find this normal. I chose to do so and kept going, admittedly a bit quicker.

      I lost a bit of weight lately and have been horrified to discover my bum is on its way out, shrinking at a rate of knots. I've been keen to claw it back out here with all this walking. No idea what distances to trust anymore, but I think it was about 24km today, with some discretionary wandering taking us up to 29.

      Alas, you can take the girl out of roller derby but not the total lack of glute activation out of the girl - each afternoon my thighs lie gasping and red on the floor, and my bum looks up from its magazine idly to ask if we all had a good day. I'm going to go eat an entire flan instead. Maybe I'll catch more ass flies with honey.

      *Addendum after dinner - it's a circus in here and I actually hate it. Gone are the quiet journalling and story telling days, everyone is loud and acting like they're on school camp. I feel like a sore thumb around these weekenders, and hope getting further away from Pamplona at Easter in both distance and time will bring back the vibes. I'm also aware of how stupid this all sounds, it's their country and they can do whatever they want. Just please be quiet? Some of us plan to do this for weeks.
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    • Day 12

      Day 8: Puenta la Reina to Villatuerta

      May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      Mileage: 12 miles
      Elevation gain:
      Elevation loss:
      Weather: mostly cloudy, cool and breezy. So lucky so far, knock wood!
      Total mileage: 66.5 miles

      We enjoyed cafes con leche at our very nice hotel/albergue this morning before hitting the road. More coffees and pastries along the way, of course! Puenta la Reina is a very pretty village, and we enjoyed walking through it. Another day of farmland, trees, and lots of flowers. Each village we walked through was on a hill, which makes sense from a defensive point of view but made for a hilly day! We saw wheat and barley (thanks, Brad!), beans, olives, grapes, baby sunflowers, and tree fruit growing. Tonight we’re staying in a rustic place called Albergue La Casa Mágica, and we’re looking forward to a long day with a climb tomorrow.

      1. Iglesia del Crucifijo in Puenta la Reina. Lots of birds’ nests on top!
      2. The Roman bridge that gives the town its name. Impressive!
      3. This climb/forest reminded us of Colorado.
      4. More of the broom bushes (thanks, Sharon!) although we have decided that they’re called nature’s jazz hands. When the sun shines on them, they just glow!
      5. We walked around a corner, saw the town of Cirauqui on this hilltop, and started laughing. The views here continue to blow us away.
      6. Parroquia de San Salvador in Lorca
      7. More poppies today. They don’t get old!
      8. Underpass shortly before Villatuerta.
      9. Camino marking along the way today
      10. La Casa Màgica serves vegetarian paella each night. That largest pan is at least three feet across! We’re still waiting to eat as I type. We’re hungry so it will be good!
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    • Day 4

      Tag 4: Pamplona - Puente la Reyna

      February 23 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      In einer erstaunlichen Ruhe, die noch in den Gassen Pamplonas lag, machte ich mich auf, um die Stadt hinter mir zu lassen. Auf den ersten Kilometern lief ich ein Stück mit einer Kanadierin zusammen, die aus der Nähe von Montreal kam. Gemeinsam sahen wir einen tollen Sonnenaufgang. Nach kurzer Zeit stieß Sascha (GER) zu uns. Ein Düsseldorfer, der einen Jobwechsel für eine Auszeit auf dem Camino nutzt. Mit ihm wanderte ich den restlichen Tag über. Zunächst hoch zum Gipfel zum ‚Mirador Alto del Perdón’, der bekannt ist für die markanten Pilgerstatuen. Die Aussicht war grandios! Wir gönnten uns im Windschatten eine kleine Pause.
      Bild 5 zeigt das Tal, durch welches wir unseren Weg fortsetzten, bis wir über einen kleinen Umweg zur ‚Santa María de Eunate’ kamen, einer kleinen Kapelle von 1170 n. Chr. Ein wunderschönes Fleckchen, gerne hätte ich sie noch von innen bestaunt. Leider war sie uns nicht zugänglich.
      Nun sind wir in ‚Puente la Reina’ angekommen. Durch die billigen Herbergen und den Kontakt zu vielen sympathischen Menschen, verschiebe ich meine erste Nacht im Zelt täglich eine Nacht nach hinten :D
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    • Day 21

      Puente la Reina, a fabulous walk!

      April 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

      We made it! Wonderful weather, and about 23 kms. We took it easy, had quite a few breaks and refreshments, and feel amazingly good…speaking for myself!…but it took quite a long time - we set off at about 8.30, in 6° temperature, and arrived here after 4.30 in what felt like over 20°, having shed several layers!

      But it was amazing…not a cloud in the sky, and leaving Pamplona and looking back as we climbed up the surrounding hills, and walking through the countryside was spectacular. Our dreams of seeing green fields of waving crops were met! Not sure if it is wheat, barley or rye, but it was rippling in the wind, and interspersed were the fields of yellow rapeseed. We worked hard, and are staying in a hotel where we were twice before…very familiar and comforting, and it is the first building you come to as you walk into town, so we have made ourselves at home, not venturing out until we leave tomorrow over the famous bridge. The wifi is very weak (also remembered) and when I publish this I will use Amr’s hotspot…always handy when wifi is bad.

      It is 8.30 and now back from dinner and showered, and still sunny outside…so absolutely no pressure to arrive before dark! The highest climb today was towards the end where there are the statues of pilgrims… the Alto de Perdon ..VERY windy today, though sunny - we ate our lunch on the non windy side of a column, but still windy. Magnificent views from up there. That high point is towards the end, and you feel you are almost finished and then it drags on and on through 2 more small towns…I will put up photos which won’t give the scope and depth of the views, but you can get an idea, and a video of the waving green fields!
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    • Day 6

      Day 4 - Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

      April 20 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

      Pamplona to Obanos to the Alto de Pardon to Uterga to Puerta La Reina. 18.3 miles. More sun today, and another very very big hill and some smaller not another hill hills. Today was a long one, taking 9.5 hours including a croissant and coffee break, a lunch break and a 30 min nap in the shade waiting for seista to end so we could see a unique church we took a 2 mile detour to see. We made it to the very windy top of the Alter of Pedron (Hill of Forgiveness), only to not see the Cross of Forgiveness. Apparently no one saw it - it was blocked by some tour groups and busses. But we got the obligatory picture with the pilgrim sculptures. Saw some nice churches, lots of windmills and trekked up and down more rocky hills. My knees were finally recovering from the first two days, and are now back to being sore. Besides sore feet at the end of the day and a blister on both pinky toes from having wet feet the first two days, my knees have been the only thing bothering me - and only on descents. They’re getting better already, so I’m starting to acclimate. We were going to run to the grocery store tonight for breakfast and snacks, but opted out when we learned it would have been a mile round trip. That pretty much sums up the level of tiredness tonight. Most things will be closed tomorrow (Sunday), so we’ll see what we find for food on the way.

      The octagonal church and altar was the detour church, St Maria de Eunentes (st Mary of 100 doors). Very cool. No one knows who built it in 1170, and has features that represent pagan, Muslim, Jewish and Christian religions. There are 33 outdoor arches, an arched entrance door, 33 arches inside and an arched altar. You are supposed to walk the outside 3 times and then enter the arched door to get your 100 doors. Apparently 33 is a powerful number in all the religions I listed above. I walked it once because, well, tired. It had been 16 miles and that hill already.

      Time for bed
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    • Day 7

      Day 8. Puente La Rerna

      May 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      The first five kms today, leaving Pamplona, was mostly city pavements and suburban roads until a place called Cizor Menor. Beyond Cizor Menor we followed pathways through a hill requiring a steep climb (750 m) to the summit roughly 10 kms further. At the summit, called Alto del Perdon, meaning Hill of Forgiveness, there is a sculpture depicting pilgrims either on foot or horseback. Also, there were many wind turbines. It was a bit of a tough climb , but the panoramic views of Pamplona made it worth the effort. At this place, I selected four stones, one for each member of the family, the walked another five kms before placing the stones at the foot of the statue to The Virgin of Irunbides praying for solace and happiness.
      For the first part of today’s walk, I was accompanied by a mother-daughter duo from North Carolina who had connected with a Danish woman named Tina, Tina didn’t say much but looked and acted every bit the free spirit. Upon reaching the summit and looking back at the view, Tina exclaimed in eloquent English, “This is fucking beautiful!”
      The daughter, Sarah, I found out, had spent a week in Yellowknife in 2018, during March when the snow castle was open
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    Puente la Reina/Gares

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