Real Basílica de Santa María la Mayor

I tossed and turned all night listening to a big thunderstorm that lasted for hours. Usually I can sleep through those things but with our experiences in the rain this past week, I was dreading waking up to find more rain expected. Luckily it seems the rain may have tired itself out a bit with last night’s performance and this morning was cloudy but not wet! We had a beautiful breakfast from our host’s mother- she made us a cake and pressed fresh orange juice and we ate with Viola and Giada from Italy who we seem to keep bumping into! Finally time to take off onto the way and even though my boots are wet and spongy and Rick had to superglue his soles to keep them together, we are marching on. We thoroughly enjoyed Pontevedra - would love to come back and relax. As we were leaving town and snapping pictures a kind gentleman motioned us into the big church we were photographing- it looked so overgrown and mossy that we were totally surprised it was open and grateful for the friend who saw us and invited us in- and we were in time for morning Mass! Such a good morning already and now receiving this blessing to carry us on our way was a bonus. We had entered the Real Basílica Menor de Santa María La Major which appears deserted from the outside because it is so old! The stonework was awe inspiring and the carved wood altarpiece was so beautiful. After Mass we hurried back to the road and today we completed 15 miles along a few miles of forest paths but mostly country lanes with vineyards and farmlands. There were still puddles but not anything like our previous days adventures! We did have one cloudburst but we had just approached St. Mary’s church in Alba and we ducked in and put all of our rain gear back on to prepare, but that blew over and we were fine! Rick insisted on keeping his gaiters on his legs so that the rain wouldn’t come back :) We walked with our friends Joseph and Mary (I didn’t make that up!) from north of San Francisco today and a mother and son from Croatia and several other people passed us including 4 young guys on bikes who circled us and shouted Buen Camino!!! You do start to get in a rhythm while you walk and you see some friends as you go in and out of the cafés. We are keeping our eyes peeled for the official Camino markers- so excited with our countdown- 2 more days! Some of the young girls we met and walked with early on Karolina (Poland) and Yvette (Germany), texted me this afternoon with the news that they had made it to Santiago, this accompanied with a joyful picture of them in front of the Cathedral. I can’t wait to arrive and feel that same joy and excitement and I’m even more determined tonight for our arrival. Our meal tonight in a little café was octopus (pulpo), chicken soup and shrimp croquettes- pretty fancy for pilgrims! And our friends from South Carolina, Dawn and Martha were there too- what are the chances?! After a plate of the locally famous Padrón peppers we took our leave because tomorrow means another hike! We are in Caldas de Reis for the night and will head over towards Padrón tomorrow.En savoir plus