Spanien
Real Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles

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    • Day 2 - Orrison to Roncesvalles - 18km

      31. august 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      18km today - done and done!

      I started out around 7:30am after breakfast. I had a reservation in Roncesvalles so I didn’t need to worry about my pace, I just had to arrive by 7pm or I lose my bed and dinner.

      It was a steady climb up again, but was blessed with seeing the sun rise over the mountains. While walking, it was just as important to occasionally look behind as the scenery was breathtaking every step of the way.

      Physically today was a challenge. It was 13km with a 700m gain plus a 4.5 km decent. On the climb, I took a break about every 4km to make sure I would last. I took my boots off at that point as well. The muscles were holding out pretty well, for awhile. I think about the 11km mark I was really starting to feel my glutes and hamstrings. About 1km into my 4.5 km decent they were screaming! They were so tired. I would stop every so often and stretch them. About 3 km from the end, I could feel some hot spots on my feet forming for blisters, different places than usual because of going downhill, so I sat down and put tape on them right away. I was tempted to wait as it was only 3km but I knew better not to wait if I wanted to keep going the next day.

      I arrived in Roncesvalles by 4pm. It was good I had a reservation as by 3:30pm they were all full. They have a system where they give you a coloured card when you arrive and then call out the colour to check you in. I wasn’t to my bed until 5pm. I then showered, stretched, rolled my muscles and relaxed. Then it was time for the pilgrims dinner. Dinner was pasta, pork and potatoes. They had the option of fish, but I remember from last time that they give you the whole fish, head and all, so didn’t want to deal with that again.

      I wasn’t planning to go to the mass at the church but just as I was leaving dinner, the bells were ringing and the church was right there, so I took it as a sign. I went in and all the standing was killing me (as I am sure it was with the other pilgrims). The mass is all in Spanish, except for a pilgrims blessing at the end where they say a couple sentences in english and other languages. I only caught a few words of it and all I remember is the word “journey.”

      After mass, it was back to the room. This new hostel is awesome. When Jörg and I were hospitaleros in 2014, we drove here and asked to look around as we stayed in the old monastery last time. Because I made a reservation early, I got a bed on the 3rd floor, which was all single beds, it was absolute luxury (in pilgrim terms) The wifi was very strong so I could upload the blogs I had already written but I had no energy left to compile the videos.

      Ok it’s 10pm and the lights are out, so time for bed.

      TTYL
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    • Dag 5

      Over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles

      4. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      After watching Candi start walking from Saint Jean, we started from the Croix Thibault and walked up and over the Pyrenees. ⛰️🙂 Alan’s foot did ok (yay) so tomorrow he will see if he can do the whole 13 miles to Zubiri. 🤞🏻🤞🏻

      It wasn’t a blue sky day, but we had much better views than the thick fog we had in 2018. We kept commenting on the views we had today that were non-existent back then. We could actually see the beautiful, strong, stocky horses 🐴 (and a lot of 🐑 ) on the hillsides, instead of just hearing the bells around their necks.

      It was extremely windy, but the sound of it blowing through the trees was soothing - plus it felt so nice and cool on my hot face (because it takes hardly anything to turn me into a sweat ball).🥵 The descent down to Roncesvalles is steep and tough on the body. We were glad to finally finish, get our packs off, take showers, and put on our sandals. I know for sure we will be sore tomorrow, unless the cold beer 🍻 cures it. 😂

      Tonight, we are staying at Hotel Roncesvalles and our stomachs are full from an amazing pilgrim dinner…scallops, cod, steak, mushroom risotto, apple pie and a brownie with ice cream. YUM! It will be hard to top. 😋😋

      So far we have met some really nice people already at the beginning of this journey, but a few really stand out.

      Pierre - He’s from Australia and is doing this walk because his wife, who passed away two years ago, told him to take a little time once she died to mourn, but then she wanted him to spend some time doing something for himself. 🥹 So, he told himself he would do something his younger self would have done, and the Camino is it. We hope to run into him more in these next few days and maybe help him celebrate his birthday in Pamplona.

      Gunnar: He’s from Belgium. He’s working on a Camino video and asked us if he could ask us some questions. In talking with him more today he shared his wife passed away in 2019 from a brain aneurysm. He decided right then to not wait until retirement to do things in life.

      Australian Couple:

      We met a really sweet couple who are walking the Camino with there 9 month old son. 😳 The mom was carrying him in front for three hours while we was sleeping and then, once he woke up, his dad carried him in child carrier backpack. The couple said the little guy enjoyed all the people talking to him. It kept him busy and happy. Maybe he will be one of the youngest Camino pilgrims to make it to Santiago. 🙂👶

      Fun fact learned today: When stung by stinging nettles, grab some dandelion leaves, smoosh the leaves up and rub them on your skin. It takes the sting away! Thank you to the Dutch woman for that. :)

      Tomorrow, our plan is to walk 13 miles to Zubiri - slowly, with lots of breaks. 🙂
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    • Dag 4

      Day 1 -St Jean to Roncevalles

      6. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      We got started at 7am , as the first part of the walk was thru the city of St Jean. The first stop for the day would be Orisson which is about 5 miles. While you are going up the mountain at the end of the first 3 miles I said to myself, this isn’t so bad , I can do this….. Well the next 2 miles is what people must be talking about:…Straight up for the next 2 miles , asphalt for the most part with a little of gravel path toward the end. It was a bit tough but in a good way. It’s your first day so the adrenaline certainly helps! At the 5 mile mark is a great hostel that has a restaurant that serves food and drink to all…Very timely! Many stay there for their day 1 end point but we were headed to Roncevalles a mere 10 more miles. At Orisson we were at 2700 feet so half the elevation was complete. With 10 miles for the second half, so must be less strenuous …. Wrong:) It’s all about when the elevation is on those next 10! All kidding aside the walk was challenging but not a killer. You will see many overlook pics primarily because I kept saying we must be at the top take a picture…well we weren’t at the top…. It just kept going! Then we did finally hit the top and started coming down. That’s when I confirmed that I really like going up better!
      Many gorgeous views along the way. The Pyrenees have a great mix of field and forest. Forest is mostly beech trees that are very cool to look at. Many goats, sheep , cattle and horses grazing the fields on the mountain. The horses had cow bells on their necks… first time I have seen a horse bell .
      About 5 or 6 miles into this section was another timely placed food truck that sure came in handy.
      We arrived at our end point in about 7.5 hours. Little over 16 miles traveled and according to my Fitbit 41,000 steps. Our hotel is right next to the towns church and had just started their daily pilgrim mass. Beautiful church packed with pilgrims!
      Tomorrow will be another 17 mile day but we came out of day 1 pretty good with no major pains just some minor aches. All in all great day. Lots of great thoughts and conversations along the way. Met folks from UK, Australia, France , Spain and South Korea . Only 1 from the US. She lives in Oregon.
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    • Dag 27

      Hinter alten Mauern

      4. januar, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      "Santa María de Roncesvalles
      ist ein alter Pilger Krankenhaus und Enklave von tiefer epische Resonanzen, mit aller Sicherheit, eines der sinnbildlichen Orte des westlichen Europas, an deren ausgedehnte Grenze immer der wichtigste und beliebstete Grenzstein für die Compostela Route betrachtet wurde."

      https://roncesvalles.es/de/konigliche-stiftskir…
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    • Dag 1

      St. Jean Pied de Port - Roncesvalles

      20. februar, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Nun bin ich den ersten Tag auf dem Camino! Nach der strapaziösen Reise über fast einen Tag und einer ruhelosen Nacht im Nachtzug, war es ein fast unwirkliches Gefühl, die ersten Schritte auf dem sagenumwobenen Camino Frances gehen zu können.
      Da die eigentliche Route der ersten Etappe aufgrund des Winters gesperrt war, nahm ich die Alternativroute über Valcarlos.
      Nach einer abwechslungsreichen Strecke war ich froh ein Bett in der Herberge in Roncesvalles zu bekommen. Hier traf ich auf die ersten Gleichgesinnten. Mit mir sind ungefähr 15 weitere Pilger unterwegs.
      Mit 25 km und ca. 900 hm eine ordentliche Etappe, um sich warm zu laufen…
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    • Dag 14

      Valcarlos a Orreaga/Roncesvalles

      3. april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      I’m glad the Camino started with a good day, because today was a beat down. I got a bit late of a start at just after 9. I knew that it would be a lot of uphill, but I had no idea! I’m not sure the accuracy of this, but I found online that over the course of the 7.5 miles I walked, there was an elevation gain of 3,940 feet with a loss of 2,011 ft. I began using a mantra to keep myself going “poco a poco, paso a paso.” I’d keep my head down, pick a spot a bit up the trail, walk there, stop for a short breather. Repeat ad nauseam. Also, thank God for earbuds and iPhones- I was able to listen to some upbeat music, which helped. And just when I thought the uphill would never end, the trail let out onto a beautiful hilltop (unfortunately, I didn’t stay to enjoy it- nature was calling and it’s not the sort of place to dig a cat hole!)

      Check in to the albergue was easy, though a poor French girl in front of me was denied a bed as she didn’t have her physical passport on her. I bought food tickets for breakfast and dinner, but the assigned restaurant said they couldn’t accommodate celiac. Fortunately the next one I went to said they could, so I got the tickets changed. I’m a little nervous about how well they’ll do, as it’s a small place with probably hundreds of pilgrims. Prayers that they get it right and that my body does ok with the food!

      Only a few pictures today and no video because I was dead. Hoping for a good night’s sleep before a long day tomorrow- less elevation, so it shouldn’t be too bad 🤞
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    • Dag 4–5

      Roncesvalles Monastery & Pilgrims Hostel

      17. april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      As history tells it, the doors to Roncesvalles Monastery were open for Christians and pagans, rich and poor, with no distinctions. Pilgrims could have a bath and have their shoes repaired. Sick people received the best attention and were treated with best medicine and they could rest in clean and soft beds. Fast forward to now, and it seems not much has changed—except perhaps the addition of indoor plumbing and electricity. Yesterday, after battling the elements through the Pyrenees mountains, we arrived at this ancient refuge, eager to experience firsthand the storied hospitality of this legendary stop on the Camino de Santiago.

      The promise of a hot shower, a soft bed, and a warm meal felt like a luxury—and in many ways, it was. The Roncesvalles Monastery, now bustling with volunteers rather than monks, offers around 420 beds and for $32 a person, we had access to sinks to hand wash our clothes, a shower, a warm dinner, a soft bed & a simple breakfast.

      After a much-needed long, hot shower, we partook in the pilgrim's mass, then enjoyed a communal dinner with new friends from Ireland, Germany, Italy & Washington DC.

      Sleeping in a dormitory style bed at the monastery is an experience akin to camping indoors with a chorus of nasal flutes. So. Much. Snoring. It seems that traversing over the Pyrenees in miserable weather conditions does wonders for the sinuses. 🤣But who's to complain? We were all in the same boat—or should I say, bed?

      The "lights out" policy at 10 PM was strictly enforced, as was the 6 AM wake-up call, which was not just a gentle nudge but a full sensory experience. Lights flickered on, and the sound of monks singing wafted through the halls, a reminder that it was time to rise, shine, and strap on those hiking boots for another day of adventure. Although it wasn’t the most restful night that either of us had, we are grateful for the experience 🙏🏼
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    • Dag 3

      Over the pass Napoleon took to escape

      24. maj, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Today was the second big walk up over the pyrenees and down to Roncesvalles where we are staying in the monastery which has been updated and is lovely. Last night was a bit challenging. Bunks too flimsy for adults and a really stuffy room. Luke warm showers and not warm enough to spend the afternoon outside. Today by contrast is all blue skies and much nicer hostel.
      Saw eagles ( I have decided they were golden) and all sorts of wild flowers and had lunch on a rock in the middle of nowhere. Most people are slower or taking the shorter route so we had the path to ourselves.
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    • Dag 4

      Aldudes - Roncesvalles

      29. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Was für eine Nacht 🔔💦 Nicht nur die benachbarte Kirchenglocke sondern auch die extrem hohe Luftfeuchtigkeit haben uns um den Schlaf gebracht. Nun gut… Keine Zeit zum jammern. Weiter machen! Die vierte Etappe startet direkt mit extrem steilen Anstiegen, aber dafür werden wir auch mit tollen Ausblicken belohnt. Ansonsten hat uns hauptsächlich das Wetter für den nächsten Tag beschäftigt 🤔 Heute Nacht bis morgen Mittag ist starker Regen angekündigt, weswegen wir diese Nacht in einem Apartment verbringen. Morgen hoffen wir spätestens ab 13 Uhr wieder starten zu können. Unser Ziel bis zum Sonnenuntergang: 21 km.Læs mere

    • Dag 4

      Made it to Spain

      8. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      Today could be summed up with one word...ROUGH! It was, by far, harder then yesterday. But, after a lot of uphill walking and one panic attack, I finally got to the downhill part. That provided its own challenges, but I made it! My UK ladies left me behind first thing this morning. I've met more people along The Way to walk with. A special thanks goes to Dave and G, from the US, and John and Shon, from the UK, for talking me thru the last of my panic attack and walking with me the rest of the day. I was able to get a bed at Roncesvalles. Good thing. I know I could not have made it any further.Læs mere

    Du kender måske også dette sted med følgende navne:

    Real Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles, Real Colegiata de Santa Maria de Roncesvalles

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