Spanien
Santa Marina del Rey

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    • Dag 27

      Day 26, Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo

      18. juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Today life really felt like a bowl of cherries! Or a hatful - picked by our fellow pilgrims in the garden of our lovely albergue. On the Camino people are always saying it’s about the journey, not the destination. However, today it really was the destination which made this day so very special.
      We arrived at our albergue and were greeted with a cup of delicious herbal tea (the herbs grown in the garden). Lunch involved a lot of ladder-climbing in pursuit of the ripest cherries and was a social, happy affair. Fiona and I had bought gazpacho and were eating it when our fellow pilgrims joined us, shared our crisps and provided hatfuls of cherries.
      Later in the afternoon a fellow guest led an hour- long yoga session (with a little help from Fiona). And before dinner we were treated to a ‘sound bath’ held in honour of the founder of the albergue who died a year ago tomorrow. It’s hard to describe what this was - we lay on the floor while someone played Tibetan sound bowls. It may sound strange but it was deeply serene and meditative and felt like another significant spiritual moment on this pilgrimage. Afterwards, he offered to play the bowls on Fiona. I know this sounds stranger still, but a few of us volunteered to experience it too and it was really affecting to feel the music resonate through you.
      Next up was the most wonderful vegetarian meal in the garden polished off with cherry cake. One of the special things about this place is that it is a donativo - you only pay what you can afford for the food. The accommodation cost 13 euros. At the end of the meal the cook talked about the founder and how the three of them who worked with him had set up an association to continue his vision of looking after pilgrims after his death. She cried and was comforted by a lovely German woman called Ramona who had visited in 2016 and remembered him.

      Earlier in the day we had met Ramona, who we’d bumped into a couple of weeks ago and she said she’d had a couple of difficult days, had wanted to return to Albergue Verde today but they were full. When we arrived I asked if there might be a spare bed and they said they had one bed left so I sent her a WhatsApp and reserved it for her. She was delighted and very sweetly, said that we had been her Camino gift today. It was nothing at our end but very satisfying to have helped make someone happy.
      Another bonus today was being introduced to Nick, a vegan chef from Hove, who is helping out here. He shared a vegetarian map of the Camino which has set us trying to book up vegetarian places for the days we still need bookings for.
      Oh, and I have successfully walked without taping up my toes. I took the risk this morning of wearing a new pair of socks or, should I say, gloves for the feet.
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    • Dag 2

      Day 2 Villares de Órbigo

      21. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Easy walk today - pretty flat. Sunny for most of the walk. Still many fields, but that is about to change. The hills start tomorrow.
      I love how easy it is to form relationships on the Camino. Although technology is still used, people seem more willing to put it aside and (gasp!) Talk! People also more willing to invite others to join them.
      One thing I do find different though, is that the churches are all locked. Entering these Holy places was one of my favorite activities 6 years ago when I was last on the Camino. It provided opportunities for reflection, prayer. I miss that this time.
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    • Dag 5

      Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigio

      23. maj 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

      The inn keepers Mercedes and Maximo of Molino Galoches were delightful hosts. They grabbed my bag and hauled it upstairs together (likely they are septuagenarians), “No, no! We give servicio de España!” A enjoyable dinner (veal culets, vegetables, salad and a nice Rioja red wine. Finished with flan!) with four Brits and a Singaporean woman. Breakfast was toast and apple jam with strong cafe negro. Taxi with the Brits back to Mazarife to cover there to Villavante. The Way was flat roadside rising only to overpass train or highway, one other highway to cross directly. 10-15 mph headwind from the West, sunny but cool, then on to Hospital de Orbigio arriving at noon and lunching at the top rated Bar El Puente. A “tortilla”, more a potato and egg frittata with cafe negro con azucar. Some amazing chickens here and Euro elevator Tom Jones and Julio Iglesias.

      “You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. You’re on your own. And you know what you know. And YOU are the one who’ll decide where to go…” – Dr. Seuss
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    • Dag 27

      Villar de Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo

      18. juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      A day of doors and cherries!
      A pretty short day and a fairly unremarkable walk along very straight roads. No stops until about 9km when we had coffee and met up with lots of old friends.
      There is a saying that ‘the Camino will provide’ and we heard about an example of this today from Ramona. Ramona is from Germany and is walking on her own. It’s her second Camino and she is clearly planning many more. She started walking at St Jean in a pair of Asics which soon proved hopeless and she was struggling with bad blisters. She met along the way with two American women, one of whom said she was carrying a pair of shoes she had never worn but really didn’t feel she needed. She offered them to Ramona who found that they fitted her perfectly and were completely comfortable, despite the blisters. They even marched her t shirt. What’s more, the woman wouldn’t take any money for them - and they are a brand new pair of ON’s (the shoes I wear and which I know are really expensive). The Camino certainly provided! (See picture of Ramona with her new shoes).
      We also met up with Anna and Cally who are staying at Albergue Verde with us tonight.
      It really was a short walk - only about 14k.- and we were at our Albergue by about 12.
      This is an amazing place. As I’m writing the most wonderful smells are coming out of the kitchen. We were greeted with a cup of herbal tea and sheets for the bed! It is a dormitory but sheets are a great luxury.
      We had bought a carton of gazpacho for our lunch and had this in the garden, where we met more of our fellow pilgrims. One, Jason, had picked cherries along the way (he had asked the owner’s permission!) and shared these with us and others - before realising that the tree in the garden of the Albergue was also heavy with cherries. We all picked some more - perfectly ripe and straight from the tree; what could be better.
      Then had a tedious but necessary planning session to ensure that we have some places to stay before we get to Samos, from where we are booked up.
      Later we have yoga at 5, sound therapy (!) at 6 and a vegan dinner at 7.30. For me, perfect.
      And about the doors - I just saw so many lovely ones today I had to photograph them.
      Am now in bed in my big dorm having had the most wonderful evening.
      It started with yoga in the yoga studio - what I should really be doing everyday after walking but never seem to get round to. Much more fun anyway with other people.
      And then… a special moment, very very special actually. In the same studio one of the friends of the Albergue gifted us a Tibetan singing bowl session. We all lay down in the circular space, head facing inwards, with instructions just to relax and not listen to the sounds but just let them wash over you.
      I can’t describe this experience - I can only say that I felt incredibly calm afterwards and when I told him how I felt and that I had been ill previously he gave me an extra one to one session. At dinner everyone seemed very quiet - the air of calm had reached us all I think.
      Best dinner on the Camino so far - totally vegan - beetroot hummus, lentil curry with loads of vegetables, salad, saffron rice, wholemeal bread and to finish a vegan cherry cake with cherries from the garden. It’s a donativo for dinner and it’s hard to over estimate how much this whole experience meant to me. I feel very calm and cared for and desperate for this to be only my ‘first’ Camino. I really hope I can stay well enough to do it again.
      So many good experiences. And sorry about the doors but they were very interesting!
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    • Dag 20

      20. DAY | 31 km

      18. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Der Weg ohne ein Ende...

      Genau den bin ich heute gegangen, ohne eine Pause einzulegen. Diese Straße hatte kein Ende, sie war unendlich und dort wo es schien ein Ende zu geben, war allerdings nicht mein Ende. Also bestärkte ich mich mental und lief weiter, weiter und weiter. Zum Glück gibt es kein Alpha ohne Omega, es gibt einem Kraft zu wissen, dass irgendwo ein Ziel ist, manchmal weiß man zwar nicht wo aber auch dass ist gut so. Während ich heute durch die Stadt als Pilgerin lief, dachte ich mir wie blind gehen wir eigentlich im normalen Leben durch diese Welt ? Wie viele Menschen würden gerne sehen und hören können und wir die es können erblinden und verstummen durch unsere Altagsrythmen. Wir laufen mit verschlossenen Augen durch die Gegend fokussiert auf alles andere als auf die Umgebung einem Lächeln und vieles mehr. Wenn wir Lärm hören übertönen wir es mit Musik oder einem Telefonat und nehmen vielleicht dass ein oder andere Hallo nicht wahr. Also bin ich heute bewusst mit erhobenen Gesicht durch die Stadt gelaufen habe bewusst nicht die Musik angemacht und den ganzen Smog eingeatmet weil ich dieses Mal als Pilgerin die Chance hatte mich zu sehen und zu verinnerlichen wie ich künftig die Welt überqueren möchte z.B. auch mehr zu Fuß als mit dem Auto. Achja und wenn wir schon bei diesem Thema sind eine Stadt kann so schön sein wie sie möchte aber ich bleibe ein Dorfkind.

      Highlight von heute ? Während ich lief tippte mich eine Dame aus Südkorea an und fragte, ob die Sonnenblume an meinem Rucksack von mir gemacht sei, ich verneinte es und sagte ihr es sei von einer Freundin. Daraufhin schenkte Sie mir eine selbstgemachte Blume von sich und ich konnte sie nicht ohne etwas gehen lassen, so schenkte ich ihr meine Blume und bekam eine zweite für meine Freundin von ihr.

      Nun sitze ich in der Herberge und genieße die Sonnenstrahlen heute ist endlich wieder wärmer.

      Elli

      La metà senza fine...

      È esattamente quella che ho percorso oggi, senza fare una pausa. Questa strada non aveva fine, era infinita e dove sembrava esserci una fine, non era la mia fine. Così mi sono rafforzato mentalmente e ho continuato a camminare, ancora, ancora e ancora. Per fortuna non c'è alfa senza omega, ti dà forza sapere che da qualche parte c'è una fine, a volte non sai dove, ma anche questo è un bene. Mentre oggi camminavo per la città come una pellegrina, ho pensato: ma quanto siamo ciechi in questo mondo nella vita normale? Quante persone vorrebbero essere in grado di vedere e sentire, e noi che lo possiamo, siamo sordi e accecati dai nostri ritmi quotidiani. Andiamo in giro con gli occhi chiusi, concentrati su tutto tranne che su ciò che ci circonda, per esempio un sorriso e molto di piu. Quando sentiamo un rumore, lo anneghiamo con la musica o con una telefonata e magari non notiamo un saluto. Così oggi ho camminato consapevolmente per la città con il volto sollevato, non ho acceso la musica e ho respirato tutto lo smog, perché questa volta come pellegrina ho avuto la possibilità di vedermi e di interiorizzare come voglio attraversare il mondo in futuro, anche più a piedi che in auto. E già che ci siamo, una città può essere bella quanto vuole, ma io rimango un bambina di paese.

      Un momento di oggi? Mentre camminavo, una signora della Corea mi ha chiesto se il girasole sul mio zaino fosse fatto da me, io ho negato e le ho detto che era di un'amica. Poi mi ha regalato un suo fiore fatto a mano e non potevo lasciarla andare via senza nulla, così le ho dato il mio fiore e lei mi ha dato un altro per la mia amica.

      Ora sono seduta in ostello e mi godo i raggi di sole, finalmente fa di nuovo caldo.

      Elli
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    • Dag 34

      Hospital de Orbigo

      3. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Day 30 - Walked 35 kms today from Leon to the town of Hospital de Orbigo. It was a brutal walk - almost all the way on the sidewalk along a highway. My knees were shot by the time I reached this place. It was a warm afternoon and I was out of water. At the outskirts of town I fell upon the water fountain. Aaaahhh!
      Being me, I signed up for a ‘free’ historical guided tour of Hospital de Orbigo . This very cute 20 something explained the story of the knight who had to charge with his lance and break 300 lances of challengers in order to win his lady love. This event was staged on the bridge leading into town.
      The town is very pretty and I stayed in a cute Albergue. I met a humanitarian nurse, Brenda, who walked to Astorga with me.
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    • Dag 5

      Hospital de Orbigo

      25. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      I planned to stay over in Hospital de Orbigo, but got to the town at 11:20 and decided to carry on to the next town. Seeing that I did not book any accommodation it is easy to change my plans. I walked over the famous bridge and the first one on my CaminoLæs mere

    • Dag 29

      Astorga! And Less than 300 km left!

      16. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      Today we walked to Astorga. It is a lovely town with a cathedral and a building designed by Gaudi. And, maybe most importantly, a shoe store! I sad as it was to say goodbye to my previous shoes, the soles were completely torn up. They had to be replaced.

      We had a wonderful time at our previous location. Our hosts were completely lovely. Dolores, the woman who ran the lodging facility, was so lovely. She gave us and our new friend from Chile big hugs when we left this morning. We made friends with a wonderful woman from Chile. She walks faster than us, though, so I’m not sure if I’m going to see her anymore!

      Walk today was only 15 km. It was pleasant and through countryside. We arrived in Astorga fairly early. We went to a shoe store. They had the same brand of shoes I have been wearing but not the same model. They probably gave me a blister between my big toe and second toe! So I have been doctoring the blister and I relaced the shoes. Hopefully that will solve the problem and my shoe issues will no longer be a problem.

      We went to that which was lovely. We had an audio tour. It rained on us even though it wasn’t supposed to rain once we were here in town. Of course, we were not carrying our ponchos when we were out being tourists. All of the restaurants in town are closed because today is Monday. Not Sunday, but Monday. Apparently that’s a thing too! So we and all the other pilgrims in town are at a pizza place tonight. But Pizza is a good all purpose food!

      We were looking at a map for tomorrow, and we have a steady, uphill climb going to our next location, Rabanal. We were surprised to see that the day after tomorrow is the day we go to Cruz de Ferro where are we will be leaving our rocks on the big mound where everybody else leaves that rocks! It’s actually pretty exciting to have made it more than 2/3 of the way now!

      We were very excited when we saw a mileage marker that was 369 km. Unfortunately, about 5 km later we found a mileage marker that said we had 375 km to go! I think it just goes to show you that you can’t really trust those mileage markers! According to our guide book, we have 256 km to go!
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    • Dag 28

      To Hospital de Orbigo

      27. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      September 27

      Today was a shorter day (10 miles) to Hospital de Orbigo, a place we only walked through five years ago, and a town with a fabulous medieval bridge that Alan couldn’t wait to see again.

      The bridge is one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges in Spain and is one of the most famous landmarks along the Camino. It is known for a legendary jousting tournament.

      In the year 1434, a knight from Leon (Don Suero de Quinones) was scorned by the woman he loved. As a result, he challenged any knight who dared to pass over the bridge to a jousting battle. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge and Don Suero successfully defended the bridge for a month until he had broken the 300 lances he had pledged to use in its defense. Thus, he retained his honor, although it doesn’t appear that the lady changed her mind. He later travelled on to Santiago to give thanks for his newly restored honor. There are indications that Cervantes may have used this story as inspiration for his character, Don Quixote.

      The Great Parts of Today

      1. The AMAZING sunrise!
      2. The birds chirping this morning
      3. Meeting Anna from Russia
      4. Alan seeing the bridge again
      5. Running into Candi as she entered town and then joining her for dinner.
      6. We have comfortable beds. 🛏️

      Tomorrow, we walk to Astorga. 🙂
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    • Dag 45

      Hospital de Órbigo - quiet and eventful!

      11. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Today was travel day to Hospital de Órbigo, and bus booked for 3.45, so we spent the morning having last walks round León, and left the bags for transfer. That was a bit of a kerfuffle as they knew we were making our own way here, and we weren’t on the transfer list…but our vouchers said transfer and they sorted it out and delivered them…good for us, as otherwise we would have had to lug them to the bus station in León, and as it turned out, to our hotel at this end! Anyway, that’s a boring aside, but we had a quiet morning in León, still lovely weather but cold - maxed at about 16°, and quite a breeze, making it even colder…I wore all my layers, and Amr has taken over my down jacket - he hadn’t anticipated these temperatures!

      A funny thing happened when we were sitting in the plaza outside the Gaudi house in León…we were sitting in the seat, which has a statue of Gaudi sitting there, and we were beside him. Well, an Italian group with a guide suddenly surrounded us, and we realised they wanted photos (but not with us in them!) so of course we moved with our backpacks etc - by now we were checked out of the hotel - and the guide was very grateful and we were presented as peregrinos, and asked how far we walked each day, and from Australia was a great hit…we were celebrities for a minute…fun…and I found I could understand the Italian guide talking about León and the camino so much better than the Spanish guide of yesterday…my Spanish has gone so fluffy..

      We had lunch at a bar we had sighted, and it was excellent..Amr had morcilla - blood sausage mixture, a specialty of León, and I had equivalent of sashimi cod on orange and some magic sauce, both on toast and both magnificent…Amr helped me with mine, still having small amounts.

      Anyway, we set off to the bus station - it is in a state of renovation which we knew from arrival, bit chaotic, but we got our bus on time, about half an hour to here. This was walking that Amr was missing, but actually quite boring, especially leaving León through endless industrial areas and suburbs, then even the countryside was not cultivated much or interesting, so I didn’t feel too bad. Tomorrow he will stride out and can have his full dose of exercise!!

      The bus driver knew we were going to Hospital de Órbigo (not its final destination) and when he said this was our stop we got out in bewilderment! Walking in we have always come from the countryside and walked over the very long bridge to our hotel - on the camino. We found ourselves in a village, rather desolate, no sign of river or bridge…Amr turned on Google and we found it was a fairly short walk to the hotel, so we followed directions, through little streets, all shuttered, very little sign of life, till it said your hotel is very close, and there it was - we approached from the opposite direction - the bridge isn’t a vehicle bridge - and at first we’re totally disoriented…but there was the bridge, and we settled in, our bags were here! Phew.

      We had a walk over the bridge, just for the sake of it , and a bit of a wander, but this town has nothing really to offer sightseeing wise, so we are now showered, done our washing and relaxing in the bar - Amr with a vino Tinto, and I have a “limonada” which looks and tastes like sangria! Dinner in about half an hour.
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