Spain
Villavante

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    • Day 22

      3 weeks today

      August 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Jinjoo (I learnt that this is the correct spelling) and I woke up at 4.30 so we could leave early. Jan refused to wake up before 5, but joined us for breakfast at 5.10.
      When Jinjoo and I were ready he said: you go, I'll catch you later, but he never did. Either I am walking faster, or the faster walkers are slowing down 😄
      Jinjoo was walking 20k only, so we walked that distance together and then I kept going alone.
      Today is 3 weeks since I started the Camino and I have less than 300k to go. It's a funny feeling, because I want to make it to Santiago but I don't want the experience to end yet.
      My feet have been getting better. So much so, that this morning I forgot to put on the arnica cream. But I am not fully recovered and I did remember to put the cream on in the afternoon, after a 32k walk.
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    • Day 29

      Villavante

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

      Today we set out from León back to the quiet countryside. Somehow each of our city visits have happened during big annual festivals and they are just packed. The festival in León drew from every town and village in the region and it was wild. Getting back to the solitude of walking was pleasant.

      Our walk took us along the straightest and flattest path we have walked on the whole trip. The Meseta clearly did not end at León. We also past the 300k marker meaning we have now walked over 500 kilometers of our 800k journey. Amazing.

      We had great company walking with Sara and Andrew from Australia the entire day, and ended up in a wonderful country home renovated from an old mill built over a stream. The owners are amazing; they gave us a beer when we arrived, then did our laundry, brought us wine later in the afternoon, made an awesome dinner and will have breakfast ready for us in the morning. We feel totally pampered. And to think we thought we would just get a bed for the night.

      Tomorrow will be more farming country slowly taking us into the foothills. It will be interesting to see what the next few days reveal to us.
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    • Day 31

      Villavante

      May 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Zo zeg, weer ingecheckt in een albergue, ja op een slaapzaal met stapelbedden, ik lig beneden... maar hoe begon mijn dag..... vanochtend na een heel licht ontbijtje om 08.40 uur op de pedalen. Mijn enige doelstelling was zover mogelijk voorbij Leòn komen en dat lukte aardig. Ik had er net als gisteren een goed tempo inzitten maar zag dat ook de wandelende pelgrims alweer vroeg op pad waren. In ieder dorp zit, bij voorkeur op de kerktoren, 1 of 2 nesten ooievaars te nestelen, mooi om te zien! Enfin ik was rond 11.00 uur in Leòn waar ik meteen ook weer een stempeltje haalde en ik had honger, dat voelde ik onderweg al dus een goede lunch genomen zodat ik ook gedurende de middag dit tempo kon volhouden en dat is aardig gelukt. Toen ik Leòn uitreed doemden de nodige heuvels weer op maar daarna was het over het algemeen heel goed om te doen. Ik wilde iig 80 km of meer fietsen en dat is gelukt. Ik voel me goed en het lijkt wel of ik naar Santiago toegetrokken word.. een bijzondere ervaring want ik trap echt door en snap soms zelf niet dat ik het zolang volhou.. maar ik klaag niet hoor.
      Ingecheckt dus in een albergue en dat betekent eigenlijk ook dat je het avondeten en ontbijt daar ook gebruikt en het is natuurlijk ook super gemakkelijk. Dadelijk even onderhoud plegen en uitrusten.
      Zojuist gezamenlijk gegeten met als tafelgenoten een Belg, Oostenrijker, een Zuid-Koreaan en een Australiër. Mooie gesprekken, goed te eten en dan zit ik nu op mijn stapelbedden (beneden) om mijn verhaal van de dag te completeren. Hoewel nog licht gaat het niet lang meer duren. Ben benieuwd wat de nacht brengt en iig voor morgen weer veel zin in, jullie weten ook waarom!
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    • Day 24

      Hospital de Orbigo

      September 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Kurzer Gang (14 km) nach Hospital der Orbigo, um einen halben Ruhetag in einer besonderen Herberge zu haben. So chillen wir also im Garten mit den Hunden und Katzen. Osteopathie und Yoga gibt's auch im Angebot und gleich ein gemeinsames vegetarisches Essen gegen Spende.Read more

    • Day 5

      Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigio

      May 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

      The inn keepers Mercedes and Maximo of Molino Galoches were delightful hosts. They grabbed my bag and hauled it upstairs together (likely they are septuagenarians), “No, no! We give servicio de España!” A enjoyable dinner (veal culets, vegetables, salad and a nice Rioja red wine. Finished with flan!) with four Brits and a Singaporean woman. Breakfast was toast and apple jam with strong cafe negro. Taxi with the Brits back to Mazarife to cover there to Villavante. The Way was flat roadside rising only to overpass train or highway, one other highway to cross directly. 10-15 mph headwind from the West, sunny but cool, then on to Hospital de Orbigio arriving at noon and lunching at the top rated Bar El Puente. A “tortilla”, more a potato and egg frittata with cafe negro con azucar. Some amazing chickens here and Euro elevator Tom Jones and Julio Iglesias.

      “You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. You’re on your own. And you know what you know. And YOU are the one who’ll decide where to go…” – Dr. Seuss
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    • Day 2

      Day 2 Villares de Órbigo

      June 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Easy walk today - pretty flat. Sunny for most of the walk. Still many fields, but that is about to change. The hills start tomorrow.
      I love how easy it is to form relationships on the Camino. Although technology is still used, people seem more willing to put it aside and (gasp!) Talk! People also more willing to invite others to join them.
      One thing I do find different though, is that the churches are all locked. Entering these Holy places was one of my favorite activities 6 years ago when I was last on the Camino. It provided opportunities for reflection, prayer. I miss that this time.
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    • Day 27

      Villar de Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo

      June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      A day of doors and cherries!
      A pretty short day and a fairly unremarkable walk along very straight roads. No stops until about 9km when we had coffee and met up with lots of old friends.
      There is a saying that ‘the Camino will provide’ and we heard about an example of this today from Ramona. Ramona is from Germany and is walking on her own. It’s her second Camino and she is clearly planning many more. She started walking at St Jean in a pair of Asics which soon proved hopeless and she was struggling with bad blisters. She met along the way with two American women, one of whom said she was carrying a pair of shoes she had never worn but really didn’t feel she needed. She offered them to Ramona who found that they fitted her perfectly and were completely comfortable, despite the blisters. They even marched her t shirt. What’s more, the woman wouldn’t take any money for them - and they are a brand new pair of ON’s (the shoes I wear and which I know are really expensive). The Camino certainly provided! (See picture of Ramona with her new shoes).
      We also met up with Anna and Cally who are staying at Albergue Verde with us tonight.
      It really was a short walk - only about 14k.- and we were at our Albergue by about 12.
      This is an amazing place. As I’m writing the most wonderful smells are coming out of the kitchen. We were greeted with a cup of herbal tea and sheets for the bed! It is a dormitory but sheets are a great luxury.
      We had bought a carton of gazpacho for our lunch and had this in the garden, where we met more of our fellow pilgrims. One, Jason, had picked cherries along the way (he had asked the owner’s permission!) and shared these with us and others - before realising that the tree in the garden of the Albergue was also heavy with cherries. We all picked some more - perfectly ripe and straight from the tree; what could be better.
      Then had a tedious but necessary planning session to ensure that we have some places to stay before we get to Samos, from where we are booked up.
      Later we have yoga at 5, sound therapy (!) at 6 and a vegan dinner at 7.30. For me, perfect.
      And about the doors - I just saw so many lovely ones today I had to photograph them.
      Am now in bed in my big dorm having had the most wonderful evening.
      It started with yoga in the yoga studio - what I should really be doing everyday after walking but never seem to get round to. Much more fun anyway with other people.
      And then… a special moment, very very special actually. In the same studio one of the friends of the Albergue gifted us a Tibetan singing bowl session. We all lay down in the circular space, head facing inwards, with instructions just to relax and not listen to the sounds but just let them wash over you.
      I can’t describe this experience - I can only say that I felt incredibly calm afterwards and when I told him how I felt and that I had been ill previously he gave me an extra one to one session. At dinner everyone seemed very quiet - the air of calm had reached us all I think.
      Best dinner on the Camino so far - totally vegan - beetroot hummus, lentil curry with loads of vegetables, salad, saffron rice, wholemeal bread and to finish a vegan cherry cake with cherries from the garden. It’s a donativo for dinner and it’s hard to over estimate how much this whole experience meant to me. I feel very calm and cared for and desperate for this to be only my ‘first’ Camino. I really hope I can stay well enough to do it again.
      So many good experiences. And sorry about the doors but they were very interesting!
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    • Day 20

      20. DAY | 31 km

      May 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Der Weg ohne ein Ende...

      Genau den bin ich heute gegangen, ohne eine Pause einzulegen. Diese Straße hatte kein Ende, sie war unendlich und dort wo es schien ein Ende zu geben, war allerdings nicht mein Ende. Also bestärkte ich mich mental und lief weiter, weiter und weiter. Zum Glück gibt es kein Alpha ohne Omega, es gibt einem Kraft zu wissen, dass irgendwo ein Ziel ist, manchmal weiß man zwar nicht wo aber auch dass ist gut so. Während ich heute durch die Stadt als Pilgerin lief, dachte ich mir wie blind gehen wir eigentlich im normalen Leben durch diese Welt ? Wie viele Menschen würden gerne sehen und hören können und wir die es können erblinden und verstummen durch unsere Altagsrythmen. Wir laufen mit verschlossenen Augen durch die Gegend fokussiert auf alles andere als auf die Umgebung einem Lächeln und vieles mehr. Wenn wir Lärm hören übertönen wir es mit Musik oder einem Telefonat und nehmen vielleicht dass ein oder andere Hallo nicht wahr. Also bin ich heute bewusst mit erhobenen Gesicht durch die Stadt gelaufen habe bewusst nicht die Musik angemacht und den ganzen Smog eingeatmet weil ich dieses Mal als Pilgerin die Chance hatte mich zu sehen und zu verinnerlichen wie ich künftig die Welt überqueren möchte z.B. auch mehr zu Fuß als mit dem Auto. Achja und wenn wir schon bei diesem Thema sind eine Stadt kann so schön sein wie sie möchte aber ich bleibe ein Dorfkind.

      Highlight von heute ? Während ich lief tippte mich eine Dame aus Südkorea an und fragte, ob die Sonnenblume an meinem Rucksack von mir gemacht sei, ich verneinte es und sagte ihr es sei von einer Freundin. Daraufhin schenkte Sie mir eine selbstgemachte Blume von sich und ich konnte sie nicht ohne etwas gehen lassen, so schenkte ich ihr meine Blume und bekam eine zweite für meine Freundin von ihr.

      Nun sitze ich in der Herberge und genieße die Sonnenstrahlen heute ist endlich wieder wärmer.

      Elli

      La metà senza fine...

      È esattamente quella che ho percorso oggi, senza fare una pausa. Questa strada non aveva fine, era infinita e dove sembrava esserci una fine, non era la mia fine. Così mi sono rafforzato mentalmente e ho continuato a camminare, ancora, ancora e ancora. Per fortuna non c'è alfa senza omega, ti dà forza sapere che da qualche parte c'è una fine, a volte non sai dove, ma anche questo è un bene. Mentre oggi camminavo per la città come una pellegrina, ho pensato: ma quanto siamo ciechi in questo mondo nella vita normale? Quante persone vorrebbero essere in grado di vedere e sentire, e noi che lo possiamo, siamo sordi e accecati dai nostri ritmi quotidiani. Andiamo in giro con gli occhi chiusi, concentrati su tutto tranne che su ciò che ci circonda, per esempio un sorriso e molto di piu. Quando sentiamo un rumore, lo anneghiamo con la musica o con una telefonata e magari non notiamo un saluto. Così oggi ho camminato consapevolmente per la città con il volto sollevato, non ho acceso la musica e ho respirato tutto lo smog, perché questa volta come pellegrina ho avuto la possibilità di vedermi e di interiorizzare come voglio attraversare il mondo in futuro, anche più a piedi che in auto. E già che ci siamo, una città può essere bella quanto vuole, ma io rimango un bambina di paese.

      Un momento di oggi? Mentre camminavo, una signora della Corea mi ha chiesto se il girasole sul mio zaino fosse fatto da me, io ho negato e le ho detto che era di un'amica. Poi mi ha regalato un suo fiore fatto a mano e non potevo lasciarla andare via senza nulla, così le ho dato il mio fiore e lei mi ha dato un altro per la mia amica.

      Ora sono seduta in ostello e mi godo i raggi di sole, finalmente fa di nuovo caldo.

      Elli
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    • Day 32

      Villavante from León; 1st Blister

      June 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

      While walking today I realized I've walked more than 300 miles (500+ km) so far. If we include in-town, it's significantly more.

      That's a lot of steps. My phone says 41,000 today alone and that's pretty typical for a 32km (~20 miles) day.

      The landscape was attractive, gentle rolling hills with corn, beets (?), Wheat, a flowering plant we don't recognize, sunflowers, some tree farms, flax, and probably others that I've forgotten because my blood sugar is low and my head is half-baked from the heat and the remarkable paucity of shade.

      Right after lunch I discovered my first blister! I'm sad and annoyed by this... I've been successful thus far and don't know what factors contributed. Did I tie my shoe too loose/tight? Socks got too damp? A rock? Some dirt?

      Whatever happened, my left 2nd toe now has a little (pea sized) painful blister. Phooey.
      I'll decide later what to do to mitigate more problems; after a cool beverage.

      Despite each of us discovering blisters, the rising heat, and friendly company .... We opted to do another 10km after lunch in ~90 degree weather. They were 10 boring, but flat, km along first a straight paved road then a straight dirt road. Highlights include: León just after dawn; getting some adorable puppy skritches; watching an eagle eat a snake in a hayfield; watching a different raptor glide around a field, presumably hunting; enjoying a lunch of veggie burger w fries; cool breeze on sweaty bodies; several rivers; standing in the overspray of aomw corn irrigation; meeting some nice people along the way; and taking off my shoes. All in all, a very good day.

      We made it. Maybe we should have walked another mile to a cute b&b by the river but took the "good enough and here" option of a humble but clean Albergue. Adding "just one more mile" after 20 miles in the peak of afternoon heat.... Is a tough sell.

      Emotionally.... I am glad to say that I had a number of chances to check in with myself and feel great. I've shed some of the burdens with which I started this trip and the others feel much more manageable. Doing hard things every day is good therapy. Combining in the opportunity of 5-10hrs of moving meditation helps, too. Life is feeling good.

      I'm dang tired. Staying up till 11+ last night wasn't ideal training. Or maybe I shouldn't have had that penultimate glass of vino. We shall never know.
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    • Day 28

      Astorga - Albergue Servías de María

      October 5, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

      A shorter walk today to reach Astorga, only 14.4 miles. Mia was literally dancing along without her backpack. María and Mia walk ahead with Isabel and I at the back. We ran into Anne and Lynn as we crested the final hill and saw the Cathedral of Astorga calling our name. Mia was very happy to see them again after a day apart. We're staying together in a room with 3 bunks. Today's agenda includes the chocolate museum, Gaudí palace, and Cathedral. We'll all meet back up here at 8pm to make dinner together.

      Una caminata más corta hoy para llegar a Astorga, solo 23.2 km. Mia estaba literalmente bailando sin su mochila. María y Mia caminan adelante con Isabel y yo atrás. Nos encontramos con Anne y Lynn cuando llegamos a la cima de la colina final y vimos la Catedral de Astorga gritando nuestro nombre. Mia estaba muy feliz de verlas nuevamente después de un día separadas. Nos quedaremos juntos en una habitación con 3 literas. La agenda de hoy incluye el museo del chocolate, el palacio de Gaudí y la catedral. Nos reuniremos de nuevo aquí a las 8 pm para preparar la cena juntos.
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    Villavante, 24393

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