Spain
Teatro Bretón de los Herreros

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    • Day 9

      Los Arcos to Logroño

      April 10 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      117 miles done. 383 to go.

      Lunch was “the pilgrim’s meal” as typically served in establishments along the Camino. Huge salad with a local cheese selection, perfectly breaded chicken breast with potatoes, a flambéed apple dessert, espresso, AND an entire bottle of local sauvignon blanc. 15 euros! That’s crazy, right? I only had two glasses of wine from the bottle because I still had 6 miles of walking post-lunch.

      Listened to 7 chapters of Nadia Bolz Weber’s audiobook, Shameless, while walking this morning and afternoon. There’s so much that resonates with memories of my upbringing in nondenominational churches in the 80s and 90s and thus my theological understanding shaped by purity culture, “kissing dating goodby,” WWJD, and then 8 years of reparative therapy that I was a part of, between Illinois and Colorado, by my own volition. There’s a lot to unpack with this book/audiobook, and if you’ve had a similar journey and would find it helpful to ever talk about God, faith, sexuality, fear, shame, etc., I’m glad to listen and share our life experiences together. I’m very grateful to those along the way that have been a lifeline to me… some of you who might read this know that you have been that for me, then, and still now. Thank you.

      Today was a super long walking day. Not challenging in the ascents and descents, but challenging in length… stamina of keeping moving over the long distance. I’ve started to notice others who are walking the Camino route limping, slowing down, taking more breaks, and changing out bloody bandages on their feet. I’m grateful my feet are holding up so far, though I’m prepared in case I start to get blisters or hurt myself. I’ve got my routine of stretching, massaging my feet and calves, and applying body glide where I’m feeling the rub. It’s worked…so far.

      But, in all the care for my feet, I neglected to care for the rest of me. And I got sunburned on the backs of my calves after hiking my pants up in the afternoon heat AND I had some sort of allergic reaction to the hotel soap this afternoon. So, there’s that. Not a fun combo. 😞 I gotta be more careful!

      Also, they mix red wine and Coca-Cola here as a cocktail. Kalimotxo is what it is called.
      I had to try it. The verdict is in… it’s good and odd. Sweet and tart. Different. Like me 😜
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    • Day 10

      Calle Laurel

      April 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      La calle más famosa de Logroño, disfrutando de un Rioja con Jiri (Jorge en Checo). Un checoslovaco que vive en Tenerife y con una vida muy divertida. Aparte de los pinchos, estas piparras fritas estaban buenísimasRead more

    • Day 4

      La Laurel

      July 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      This is a street in Logroño with dozens of food stands and street side food vending. And the best part is: everyone has at last one or two amazing vegan and vegetarian dishes and everything can be made gluten free, even the croquetas.Read more

    • Day 16

      From Sansol to Logrona

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Day 12 and 13 in Logrono - The Albergue Palacio de Sansol turned out to be an amazing place. It was a 320 year old palace lovingly restored by the current owner, José Maria. His family had owned it in the early 1900s and then sold it. Jose bought it back for €30,000 in the 1990s and more recently spent a millón euros to restore it into a really charming albergue.
      The pilgrim dinner was cooked by Jose and consisted of a watery soup of what looked like celery to me - but turned out to be artichoke stems. I was among the 5% that didn’t particularly like it (it needed some masala). Luckily there was a twenty-something sitting next to me who was starving and had my share - so was not wasted. This guy is an aspiring actor from LA - so we took a selfie I can show off one day.
      The next morning, yesterday, I reluctantly left Sansol - I had such a nice room, I wanted to hang out - and made my way to Viana, the halfway point. That path, all 11 kms - was a complete knee buster - there were seriously steep climbs and descents all the way to Viana. At Viana I found I had caught up with all my dinner friends who had left at 6 am because there was a bull festival happening in town and they were hanging out waiting for it. I watched the fireworks and the procession with them but didn’t wait for the bull run because of the timing. I had another 10km to get to Logrono.
      Logrono is a vibrant town. One neighborhood is devoted to tapas/pinchos bars and people hang around there snacking and drinking. Nobody eats dinner till 9 or 10pm. The town has a beautiful cathedral, Santa María de Palacio, and I got a much coveted stamp in my pilgrim passport - the lady at the tourist office said that it was hard to get.
      Last night, as I sat outside with a glass of red Rioja, some of my Sansol friends showed up and we ended up having more wine along with some a amazing but weird tapas. Surprisingly the 2 glasses of wine didn’t give me a headache!
      I spent 2 nights in Logorno. And btw, I’ve completed a hundred miles walking the Camino….
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    • Day 10

      Day 10: Logroño

      September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

      We had a bit of a hiker jam at our lodging in Los Arcos this morning, when those of us trying to get an early start on the long day to Logroño were stymied by the albergue’s locked door.

      The instructions for pressing a button to open were not working. Eventually, someone woke up the hospitalera and she unlocked the door with a key.

      We were soon on our way in the dark, looking forward to breakfast in Sansol, the next town about 7 kilometers away. Alas, no food was available there but we scored delicious tortilla sandwiches in Torres del Rio, which was just 1 kilometer further.

      Much of the rest of the day’s hike was in full sun or on pavement, which makes for a harder walk. Which meant that we were pretty wiped by the time we arrived at our hotel in Logroño.

      Nonetheless, hot showers are always wonderfully restorative, so as soon as I post this we’re off to see about a barber for Allan, and then to sample some pintxos.

      Tomorrow, we’ll have an “easy” 12 1/2 kilometers hike to Navarrete.
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    • Day 21

      Aujourdhui congé - Lessive - relaxation

      May 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Aujourd’hui on a déniché une “Lavenderia” afin de faire notre lessive. L’équipement était d’excellente qualité, récent, rapide et simple d’utilisation.

      Réservations: on a aussi réservé nos 2 prochaines nuits. Difficile de trouver mais nous avons réussi en choisissant des hôtels un peu plus dispendieux, mais le confort sera assuré.

      Nous sommes chanceux puisqu'il pleuvait aujourd'hui et nous étions en congé. Avant la « Siesta espagnole » nous en avons profité pour faire un arrêt dans un bar à tapas. Après une bonne bière, nous avons choisi de manger quelques tapas et un bon vin rouge dans la capitale de Rioja. Merci à mon complice de m’avoir fait découvrir les tapas. Quelle belle découverte... 🤗 Merci !!!

      Demain ce sera l’étape no 8. de Logroño à Nájera, une rando de 30 km. Ce parcours est considéré comme modéré. Nous attaquerons 5 étapes consécutive totalisant
      131 km avant les sections de la Meseta. « Pas par Pas, toujours devant ».
      Buen Camino
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    • Day 10

      Day 11. - Logrono

      May 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      A long day, 27.8 kms, but good paths, cloudy , 20-degree temperatures with a sprinkling of rain the last 5 kms before reaching Logrono. We had been warned to fill up with water because of the few drinking fonts along this portion of the way. There were some steep sections, but generally short, or shorter than what we’ve experienced. As always, the descents are tougher -walking poles a godsend- but extra caution required, especially when using your knees as brakes.
      I started walking at 6:30, shortly connecting with a young teachers from Melbourne. As predicted, we compared our teaching experiences. Shortly afterward, a slim, 6-foot, four-inch, athletic man wearing a sombrero, garbed in a full priest’s frock, scampered past us while reading a book. He even had a white collar, only stopping long enough to acknowledge each of us as he passed by. I never saw him again.
      I also came across a young father walking the whole Camino with his six and eight year-old daughters. Their goal today was to do 17 kms, but he planned to do the whole route with them in 45 days. He was very impressive. He carried his six year-old up the steep climbs on his shoulders with the eight year-old in tow. As I passed them on the top of the hill I overheard the six year-old complaining about getting tired, to which he responded, “This is the discomfort we talked about dear. Life is about putting up with the discomfort.”
      I spent the rest of the walk into Logrono with a lady from North Carolina, and I reconnected with Thomas from Germany. At 2:00 I checked in to my hotel, rested a few hours then connected with a Kingston couple and a couple from England. We were hungry but nothing open until 8:00 when we went out for sushi. Long day again tomorrow.
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    • Day 11

      LOGROÑO

      August 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 39 °C

      Big day today 28km in total, high of 40!! Started at 5:00 am and there is always someone in front of you!
      Very long walk which finished off with sitting in a lovely cold pool/ fountain as you entered Logrono. Not sure if we were meant to but some many pilgrims sitting there shoes off emoting the tranquillity.
      Was walking today through vineyards when I heard a guitar playing. Thought did cross my mind that I may be losing it but under this beautiful old tree was another shirtless spanish man playing guitar! Such a beautiful experience. No photos tho 😉
      Walked and talked with different people today which certainly made the last 15km easier. Rest day tomorrow, I feel my aching feet will thank me. Still thankful to be here and have air-conditioning tonight!! Thinking of doing a "Sunrise on the Camino" series xx
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    • Day 12

      Rest day

      August 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      Had a lovely day wandering around Logrono. Really pretty city - or the part I was in. Visited the cathedral, but it was shut.
      Ventured out onto Calle Laurel - a street full of just bars with each bar specialising in its on tapas. Could see it being lots of fun with a bunch of people. Have washed all my clothes - I did have to venture out in a wet dress last night - I did not think that through!
      Walking starts again tomorrow xx
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    • Day 7

      To Logroño

      June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Well, we left as planned, and none of the people we met decided to get up when we did. The sunrise was beautiful on the Camino! Although, the French ladies passed us about 2 hours in at a food truck where we were resting. The towns were far apart, and we decided to stock up on some food since it is Sunday. It turns out we did not need to be concerned. There were places open at all the towns we passed through: Santos, Torres del Rio, Vianna, and Logroño, where we stopped. We got serenaded by a classical guitarist outside of Torres Del Rio. Then the weather changed and poured down rain as we were walking into Viana, so we had to get out our ponchos. We walked about an hour in the rain.

      We had some good pintxos for lunch in Viana, and then we almost took the bus to Logroño, but we just missed it. When we checked the schedule, we realized we could walk to Logroño before the next bus arrived. My knee almost gave out 100 ft before the hotel. I gave it some rest and walked the rest of the way with some pain. The feast of San Bernabe was starting to wind down, but everyone was still out and enjoying it. 30 k today. Just before Logroño we left the Basque Country and entered La Rioja.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Teatro Bretón de los Herreros, Teatro Breton de los Herreros

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