Spain
Viana

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    • Day 15

      Viana

      September 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      Dzisiejszy dzień był inny. Obudziliśmy się do burzy z ulewą, która trwała przez wiele godzin. Byliśmy przygotowani aby iść w deszczu i burzy, co prawda nie z jakimś dużym zaangażowaniem emocjonalnym, ale byliśmy gotowi. Niestety moje kolano podjęło decyzję za mnie, można powiedzieć za nas, bo Kasia nigdy by mnie nie zostawiła, tak, że dzisiaj wszystkie spacery były zakazane. Świadomość, że nie można zejść po schodach czy wykonać skrętu, była bardzo powalająca, ale też bardzo prawdziwa. Zupełnie inne Camino, które może nie wymaga nic, ale pokazuje limitacje, które są i pewnie będą dalej. Nic nie jest gwarantowane, może tylko to, że trzeba być przygotowanym na wszystko. Chyba chodzi o to aby nie wyprosić łagodności i łatwości podróży, ale o to aby każda wędrówka była najlepszą z możliwych.
      Po śniadanku, przyjechała po nas taksówka, i z drugą parą (z Australii) pojechaliśmy do Viana. Po rozgoszczeniu się w schronisku ruszyliśmy na miasto. Wizyta w Kościele Santa Maria de la Asuncion z piękna figura Matki Bożej Virgen de Cuevas I świętym Jakubem na koniu , gdzie cała nawa Kościoła jest mu poświęcona oraz ruin kościoła świętego Piotra, gdzie w ubiegłym roku robiliśmy zdjęcia pięknego zachodu słońca, a dzisiaj po raz kolejny uświadamiamy sobie, że każde Camino jest inne, nawet jeśli przemierza się je w odstępie zaledwie 12 miesięcy ..potem na osłodę lokalne ciasteczka , potem pinchos, magno, wino i cydr, i gawedzenie z caminowymi przyjaciółmi z których niektórzy już kończą pierwszy etap swojego Camino.... wszystko napawa refleksją o przemijaniu... jak i zaskakujące , choć spokojne odejscie Jimmy Buffett, choć nie jego muzyki... potem zakupy w spółdzielni i powrót do schroniska. Teraz odpoczynek... Czeka nas jeszcze obiadek i z dużą nadzieja czekamy na poprawę wszystkiego i dobry dzień jutro. Dziękujemy wszystkim za duchowe wsparcie ❤️
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    • Day 12

      Day 9 - Viana to Navarrete

      May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      At a glance:
      Highlight: the incredible gilt work in the Church of the Assumption in Navarrete.
      Food highlights: chocolate dipped cookies
      Kilometres walked: 27.11
      # of steps: 35,307
      Elevation gain: an easy 150m

      We are in Rioja, land of grapes and wine. We passed an experimental vineyard of white Tempranillo grapes, a genetic mutation of the traditional red grape. They were experimenting something or other....our Spanish is challenged by research projects ...but each row of vines was carefully marked.
      We were overconfident today, day 9 with no blisters. We ignored our usual rule of taking a break, airing our feet every hour and changing our socks at lunch. Both Trudy and i now have a blister each on our heels.
      Tomorrow we have to get to the Municipal Albergue in Azofra before 3pm, 23k away, else we lose our reservation.
      We are in a private hostel tonight, 2 beds, shared bathroom, a pillow case and bottom sheet, no towels, access to a kitchen for a total of €38.
      Empanadas (ham and cheese) potato chips and cookies for dinner. No lunch, just chocolate and an orange and a few sunflower seeds.
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    • Day 10

      Stage 9: Viana to Navarrete

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

      21.8 kms/13.5 miles, 49°-78°, 8 hours. Was a day of contrasts- started off from Viana chipper and optimistic, hit a wall after Logrono and went through the "dim and grismals" for quite a while. Arrived in Navarrete in the heat of the day when everything still closed for siesta. After a shower and rest I reemerged and wandered around the charming little town (love the tiny pocket parks, benches and planters everywhere) and visited the amazing church. I will have to read up on the history of why such a small town has such a sumptuous church. I've never seen so much gold in one place. I saw a few familiar faces. I seem to have fallen into a loose cohort of other slow walkers, we pass each other, nod smile offer an encouraging word or bit of humor. It's a nice mix of familiarity and independence, everyone going at their own pace and doing their own thing. I overcame my usual reserve and invited some folks to join me for dinner- a couple from Longview Washington and a young man from Wales. Had a wonderful meal of Pintxos or tapas, with chocolate mousse and hot tea for dessert. A reward for the difficulties of the day. A relatively easy day tomorrow I hope, "only" 17 kms/10 miles to Najera.Read more

    • Day 10

      Day 10 On to Logrono, a bigger town!

      May 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

      We have hiked 153.5 kilometers of the Camino so far! We took a short day, hiking to Logrono today so we could relax and enjoy the bigger town. Enjoyed lunch on the main square and then tappas par excellance for dinner on famous Laurel Street. Having a great time! Going long tomorrow.Read more

    • Day 10

      Time in Viana

      August 26 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

      Mass at 8pn and dinner at 9pm. I have an easy day tomorrow. Only 12'-15 km

      Tapas of tuna with an anchovy on top and a cevesa.

      Had a nice dinner and a nice restaurant and did not take a picture

      Took pictures of the mass Had communion And got a special blessing from the priests. The priest got a special kick out of the fact that I'm from New York. He even chuckled when he touched my head and said Buen Camino and added New York to the end of my blessing as in Buen camino ,, New York!

      I think us new yorkers need better representation here
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    • Day 13

      Day 8. Sansol to Longrono

      August 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Fri, Aug 30. Today, 13 miles and 8 hours of hiking. Departed Sansol in the dark at 0630 and was quickly through the neighboring village of Torres del Rio. Although today's path was considered "flat" because the overall elevation gain to loss is near zero, there was nothing flat about walking here. In fact, the elevation gain today was over 1500 feet and with an 18 lb pack some of the hills were a challenge. After 3+ hours, we walked into the village of Viana. The historic center has a beautiful church and another church ruins from bombing during war. Debbie connected with the Oasis Center, a Christian outreach to pilgrims. It is manned by volunterrs ... Joan and Bill from San Diego, CA. They help run the cafe and food truck with opportunities to share Jesus. Largely walking on or beside a commercial highway, it was a long approach into Logrono, Exhausted but still with enough energy in our tanks, we toured the city center and saw the cathedral. Debbie bombed with her attempt to have an affogato. Finally, it was off to the the Marriott (AC La Rioja). Dinner were "groceries" of chorizo, cheese, potato chips, salad and of course, chocolate.Read more

    • Day 11 - Los Arcos to Viana - 18km

      September 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      Today felt like a long day again, even though it was only 18km and I started at 6:30am.

      It was a rough night of sleep. It was so hot and lots of snorers in the room. I finally broke out the ear plugs and they work well. The only trouble, is I could also not hear myself, so I wasn’t sure if I was being loud with all my moving around.

      My plan was to leave around 7, but everyone was already awake at 5:30 and it was impossible to sleep anymore so I decided I might as well get going as well. At 6:30am it is still dark and I wore my headlamp. It was actually quite nice. Just the right temperature and the path was a straight gravel path so easy to navigate. The one downside is all the moths and flies that hang out in front of your face because of the light.

      I was at Sansol (7km) before 9am and stopped for the daily Coke Zero and a banana. I didn’t eat the banana, I instead ate the chocolate muffin I had bought yesterday along with the bread I had left over.

      I was off again, with a few rest stops and had a bigger stop with a sandwich at a food truck about 5km from the end. I arrived in Viana just after 1pm. I still felt the effects of the sun as if I had been walking all day in the sun. I have to be sure to drink lots of water today, perhaps I am suffering a bit of heat stroke.

      I was originally going to go 22km tomorrow, but I have decided to break it up to two days instead. I have a few blisters on my toes that are bothering me a little so giving them a break should be good.

      I took a nap this afternoon (I don’t often do that), so maybe that will help. I am in a top bunk today in a room of woman, hopefully I will catch up more on my sleep.

      TTYL

      Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal

      Today was hell!!! I am in such a bad mood at the moment, I am hoping this beer will help. We were up at 6am as usual and again as usual, I was in a ton of pain. I packed by 6:30 and was down for breakfast. Today was a day for tears. We were off by 7am. Most of the walk today was on gravel roads which was hard because it was kind of boring. …

      I convinced Joerg to stop in Torres del Rio and then do the 20km to Logrono tomorrow. I am going to stay in Logrono an extra day. It sounds like Joerg does not want to so it may be where we part. I thought he understood that I wanted to stop once a week. I guess he didn’t. Anyway, we will see. My heart is aching as I love him and I love his company but I cannot keep his pace. I think it is time to let him go.

      Well, the rest of the evening was fine. I am determined to get a hotel room tomorrow. We went for a little walk then dinner. We were pretty quiet after the fight we had at the entrance to the hostel. I said something along the lines that tomorrow would be our last day together and he said that was fine as there were lots of other woman on the trail. I then said “That is fine, I have been trying for 10 months now and I give up.”

      Anyway, when dinner was complete we were sitting alone and I apologized for not being nice and he apologized as well. After that we were better. Dinner ended about 9pm, we then headed off to bed.
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    • Day 9

      I haven’t mentioned birdsong yet! Los Ar

      May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      I really need to talk about my new obsession with birdsong. As I walk along the Way I’m being serenaded by thousands of birds. Until now although I’ve been interested I’ve never really known which birds were around me. Well now I do thanks to an amazing app that records the songs and tells you who is singing.
      On the day between Roncesvalles and Zubiri I met a man who I now think gave me a wonderful gift and May be one of the Camino angels! He told me about the Merlín app from Cornell university and I now use it all the time. It certainly slows me down but I don’t care as I find it fascinating and am beginning to be able to identify some of the birds without it. I’ve had cuckoos, corn buntings, melodious warblers, turtle doves, serins, goldfinches, firecrests, cirl buntings, black caps, nightingales, Cetti’s warbler and zitting cisticola as well as blackbirds, chaffinches, sparrows, martins, swallows and swifts. Quite amazing.
      Slept really well and left at 7.30. We’ve give ourselves a shorter day today and tomorrow in lieu of having a rest day and this has seemed to work quite well. We will catch up with some of our Camino family in Najera and have actually reconnected with a couple of people who have also decided to stop in Viana.
      The walk was about 18 km - flat to start and then undulating to Viana. Coffee and croissant at Sansol then a beautiful octagonal church at Torres del Rio.
      Hot walking today but a very welcome truck about 6km before Viana where we topped up with water and an orange.
      Viana is a truly lovely town - narrow streets with tall houses, a fabulous church and a ruined fortress church with amazing views over the surrounding countryside.
      Had a siesta this afternoon which was much needed then a pilgrim meal with Tricia and Rachel joining us (slightly worrying moment when Tricia said she did know Rachel because she had had to wait for her to finish using the tumble dryer in a hostel at 10 in the evening - it possibly hadn’t been the most harmonious moment but Tricia seemed happy to forget about it and Rachel didn’t seem to remember she’d met Tricia so all fine). Only on the Camino!
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    • Day 13

      I Viana stop walking. So I did.

      June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      I had a reservation and an inclination to walk to Logroño today.

      I stopped 10km short because Viana is a cute town and i just haven't been feelin it today.

      Also, I remind myself, I am in no hurry!

      Instead I had a delicious lunch that took two hours because the waiter had 3x attitude and 0.25x aptitude. It took him 18 minutes (yeah, I timed it) to bring me a fork. Darn it! I shoulda harvested one in Sansol.

      But the food was tasty and priced well*. The beer was cold. I enjoyed the people watching. It got a little windy but high 70s and windy is pleasant to me.

      After lunch I bumped into Dean and we had another drink. Fun to know people and validating to see that I'm not alone in wanting rest. Today was hilly.

      The walk itself was a good chance to be alone with many thoughts.... Today was deep and largely related to how I want to invest my energy.... Professionally, creatively, romantically, and how I want to continue to foster my own personal growth. Good stuff.

      Various times today I am reminded that I made a good choice; coming to Spain, stopping for coffee, staying in Viana vs. Logroño... It seems a bit self deprecating but after making many not-so-great choices last year, I feel reassured by clear evidence that I can/do make great choices, too.

      My next great choice is probably a nap under a tree near a ruined cathedral.

      *Pricing... Many restaurants along The Camino offer a pilgrim's meal. Typically 3 courses (starter, main, dessert) with bread and water or wine, for 10-15€. It's usually hearty fare and euro-large portions. Lovely

      Staying in the Albergue Municipal at 9.5€ seems like a clean and comfortable choice
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    • Day 68

      59. Wandertag

      May 26, 2023 in Spain

      Jeden Abend wenn ich mir die Zeit für den Rückblick nehme, kommen mir so viele Sachen in den Sinn die ich unmöglich alle aufschreiben kann.
      Heute schaut euch die spanischen Wege an, hier fehlt es nicht an Weitblick; oder die Felder mit dem roten Mohn, das reife Korn, die tiefen Täler, dann wieder der schroffe Fels und dann dieser unbeschreibliche Duft von den Blumen, der Gewürzkräuter und der Gräser einfach himmlisch. Jeden Morgen hören wir ein Vogelkonzert. Da geht mir das Herz auf, wie schön ist es doch auf dieser Welt, all die schönen Orte schauen zu dürfen ist doch ein Geschenk. Wir haben die Pflicht zu unserer Umwelt gut zu schauen und das betrifft jeden von uns!Read more

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