Ondarre

Today was a shorter walk, actually 18.7 kms, and we started thinking it would be a breeze. But soon found out that it was full of many ups and downs - to the rivers, and then up the hill on the other side. Still stunning scenery and lovely towns to walk through. But every view in every direction has mountains in the background, so I guess we can’t expect anything but hilly walks for the moment! But tomorrow IS easy…it is just 9.5 kms into Logroño where we have a rest day on Saturday, and again I think we’ll take it very easy…! It is predicted to be a bit rainy on Saturday and that is just fine! It’s funny how our memories of the walks seem to blot out the hard bits (or we are just older!).

By asking people, and using apps and Google we are confident that the main grain crops are wheat and barley. Apple photos offers to identify so I did a close up of one which suggested barley, and Amr’s app identified the other one as wheat…Today we saw some sheep for the first time round here. They were being herded (just by a shepherd, no dogs) down the hill and across the road, right across our path.

We stopped many times for breaks and cooling - it gets very hot climbing the hills, despite the chilly early start. Surprisingly I think this camino May end up being hotter than September/October when it gradually gets cooler. I think on the meseta and when we finish at the end of May it may be very hot. But at least the meseta has no big climbs!!

We continue to marvel at the contrast of the seasons…I looked up photos of today’s walk in 2018 in autumn, and the same view of vineyards and olive groves was so different - the vineyards at the moment are brown with dead looking branches just starting to think about sprouting leaves, whereas in autumn they are all green and laden with grapes soon to be harvested, and the surrounding grain fields are now green and in 2018 were brown stubble! Amazing comparing the exact same view! Both beautiful.

Another funny thing happened when we were having a break at a little shrine where there was shade and a nice wall to sit on…there were a few assorted people that we had seen off and on during the walk…and a little Japanese woman came up to me and said “I am 80, and do you mind me asking how old you are”…so of course I said I was 80 too, and she hugged me and we agreed we were probably the oldest people on the camino - she had thought she was the oldest person and had to share the fame!! It was quite a moment…she is staying at Viana too..we said we’d have a wine, but haven’t seen her again yet.

We were so hot when we walked in - I still have a bright red face, and probably will till I wake up in the morning! - and we stopped for a beer before even checking in at the hotel. This is one of the special hotels..we have been here twice before..a lovely old palacio building, and right on the camino. Beautiful room, but the wifi only works in the foyer - but a very pleasant and comfortable place to sit - where I am now.

…Now back from dinner, and have to add that it was rather fun. This hotel has a formal almost fine dining room where we have eaten before, but also there is the cafeteria bar place which also does dinners, and was where we chose to eat…with their €15 dinner. Delicious - I had peppers stuffed with cod, and then chiperones…2 of my faves. But when we were starting, in wandered the 80 yr old Japanese woman, and then a young French Canadian girl we had been talking to on and off today and they both joined us (we were a course ahead)…both staying at the hotel. A good conversation…Read more