Spain
Vilanova

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    • Day 22

      Day 58 - Santiago - 22.4 km

      November 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      Weather: 9 - 15 degrees, another rainy day
      Clothes: The same. It seems that when it was really cold there was virtually no rain and now there is rain it’s not so cold. 🙏.

      The walk
      An early 7.30 am start in the dark. The mind and feelings somewhat wondering and worrying about the usual things.
      I met an Austrian pilgrim who was convinced it would rain. My weather forecast said not. But it did pour down for about an hour or maybe two - I hope he was satisfied. 😂
      For me it cleared up and alternated between clear and light rain. All OK by me and it was warm walking so double OK.
      The countryside was the usual villages, country lanes and back roads. There was more timber harvesting today. Life goes on regardless of how many pilgrims trudge past.
      Arrived at Santiago at 1.30 pm. A lovely last day of Via de la Plata / Sanabres

      Santiago reflections
      Arriving today seems inevitable. I’m not talking about arriving at Santiago. That was always going to happen aside from an unforeseen event.
      But today - 17 November - as being that day, feels inevitable; like no matter what my plans might have been this was always going to be the day. I have tried to ‘stretch out’ the last stages given my flight to Australia isn’t till the end of the month.
      However today is the day. And it has been perfect.
      On my first Camino (Frances) I think I was just in a daze coming into Santiago. On my second Camino I came in from Portugal at dawn when the whole city was still and golden - a wonderful experience - I wanted the walk in to last forever.
      This time I felt like I was in a river of energy that carried me along- no more stops, no more delays, keep going, keep moving. Today was definitely the day.
      As I came through the outskirts and then into the old city the mind was quiet. I really didn’t know what to expect this time and was wondering how it would be. I haven’t had any big insights or spiritual experiences in this Camino. Just me walking one day at a time.
      As I came closer to the cathedral I felt a sweet, golden and peaceful feeling. It was subtle and gentle and words can’t really describe it. But it was there and different from anything that came before in the last 8 weeks.
      Of course another Camino Angel was there to greet me. Lovely young French/Spanish Agnes, who has been at the same albergues for the past week, was also walking in today. When I first saw her in Oseira I was sure I had met her before - on a Camino: but no.
      Today we met at a cafe and then parted. Then as I arrived at the cathedral there she was. Photos were taken and at her initiative we went for our Compostellas. Agnes knew exactly where to go, having walked many Camino’s. She also found the best value hostel close to the Cathedral.
      And she organised to go to the 7.30 pm mass where the countries that the pilgrims come from are announced. One peregrina from Australia. 😄😄😄

      I’ve booked two nights at the hostel and will then start for Muxia. I think I am looking forward to that. My weather anxieties seem to be in check now.

      Look out for the next chapter.

      PS - added a year later
      Agnes, the bicycle guys and another young man and I all went for drinks in the evening at Agnes’s invitation. I was only come for a short while but we all ended up drinking and talking (did we eat?) till after midnight. I discovered that all my fears about being able to do the Via had nothing to do with my age - the young man (whose name I have forgotten) had all the same fears too.
      Needless to say I felt a bit the next day.

      Buen Camino
      Read more

    • Day 25

      Outeiro

      September 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Pretty long day today with some steep downhill then sharply uphill at the end. The albergue is 3 miles from any food or services and has no internet but it is warm outside and dry inside with showers. Tomorrow we will reach Santiago.Read more

    • Day 26

      Silleda to Outeiro

      October 14, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Silleda to Outeiro

      Distance 24 kms (6 hours)

      Last night, there was only 7 peregrinos in the Albergue. It was on the top floor of a municipal building and felt like a ship. For the first time on the Camino, we were supplied with a proper sheet and pillowcase...luxury.
      I spent most of the evening with a bag of ice on my leg. It helped to reduce the swelling.
      Roraigh and I met a few peregrinos in the town and went for a quick meal before we had to rush back to the Albergue to register with the hospilardo. It was just as well we did as it started to rain heavily. We managed to rescue our drying clothes.
      This morning, we set out at 8.30am. It was cold and lashing rain. I made the conscious decision to walk most of the way on the road. N525 goes all the way to Santiago. My logic was that it won’t be muddy and fairly dtraight forward. I might find a place for a coffee and food. It turns out that I made the right decision, Roraigh follows the yellow arrows (fechas) and described it as a meandering mud bath.
      There were some big ascents and descents but I simply switched off mentally and listening to music as I walked along in the rain.
      The last 4 kilometres were fantastic. Back on the official trail, it took me through narrow lanes through eucalyptus and oak forests. It was beautiful.
      The sun came out as I arrived at the Xunta hostel which is in an isolated village. It is really modern and cosy as the heating is on. Time to relax. Tomorrow, I have 17 kilometres to walk to Santiago de Compostela.
      And that was my 25th day on the Via de la Plata / Camino Sanabres.
      Read more

    • Pico Sacro & more!

      June 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

      One more sleep to Santiago de Compostela! Today was a smooth 24 km from Bandeira to A Susana. We passed the fabled Pico Sacro where, according to the Codex Calixtinus, two of St. James’ disciples went after approaching the evil Queen Lupa to ask for help constructing a tomb for the apostle’s remains. She sent them to the top of Pico Sacro to retrieve oxen that would help them carry out their task. It was a trick! When the disciples reached the top they encountered a dragon, which they handily defeated by making the sign of the cross. Now a believer, Lupa purportedly converted to Christianity and destroyed all pagan idols and temples, building the apostle’s tomb in their place. In 814 AD, a hermit saw lights glimmering in the oak groves and he stumbled upon the burial ground containing the relics of St. James. The bishop of Iria Flavia verified the remains, and it wasn’t long before King Alfonso II of Asturias made the journey from Oviedo to Compostela to pay homage. And hence, the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage was born! Other highlights today included Ponte Ulla, la Capilla de Santiago in Outeiro, some critter friends and statues, plus delicious mussels and traditional caldo gallego. A pretty great day!Read more

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