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Via De La Plata 2018
  • Mick Byrne

Via De La Plata 2018

The Via De La Plata is the longest Camino de Santiago route (1000km long) and crosses the whole of Spain from Andalucia in the South to Galicia in the North. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 19, 2018
    Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Preparations

    September 18, 2018 in England ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Tomorrow, I will fly to Seville in preparation to begin trekking the Via de la Plata to Santiago de Compostela. At present, the average temperature is around 32C. Rucksack is packed and weighs 10kgs. I hoped to have it weigh less and have been brutal in terms of minimalism.

    After an early morning flight, I will spend an easy day in Seville by visiting the Cathedral and collecting my first Camino pilgrim stamp. I have booked a room in a small pension near to the Cathedral.

    I will begin my trek on Thursday morning.

    "Stand at the crossroads and look, ask for the ancient paths, ask where the good way is, and walk in it and you will find rest for your souls". Jeremiah 6:16    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne
    3

    Arrived in Seville

    September 19, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    A very early start this morning to join the chaos at Terminal 3 Manchester Airport. A big thank you to my great wife for getting me there.
    Arrived in Seville on time. While paying the bus conductor my fare, he was delighted to show me all his Camino tattoos. He was definitely a seasoned peregrino. We spoke for about 10 minutes and I got to use my poor Spanish. We left shaking hands.
    I got to the cathedral and found the small, very well hidden, office. I got my first Via de la Plata stamp.
    I wandered around the city and finally located my pension. My room is smaller than a cell but clean. It will be an early night and an early start to beat the 30C heat tomorrow.
    Hasta luego.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    A Brutal Day Seville to Castiliblancos

    September 20, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I left Seville this morning at 7am in total darkness. I had a great nights sleep. Finding my way out of the city was difficult.
    I eventually got to the marked Camino path and walked along a river. I walked with a lovely Swedish lady who was also starting her Camino.
    Sunrise brought us out into open countryside. It was one long straight gravel track that went on for miles. To be honest, It was pretty boring.
    My new companion got slower and slower as the temperature quickly rose to the mid 30C. We passed through Santipoce, the birthplace of Emperor Hadrian.
    We eventually arrived in a small town called Guilena. My companion was exhausted and booked into an albergue.
    I was feeling strong and made the BAD decision to carry on another 18km. It is described in the guidebook as a ‘stage from hell.’ I thought that I could knock the distance out in no time. Boy, was I wrong! I got a real kicking. The heat was unbearable. I stooped and had a short siesta under a tree. The heat sucked all my energy. I eventually arrived in Castiliblancos 43km after 11 hours walking.
    The hostel staff were wonderful. I have completed my admin, purchased some energy food for tomorrow and will have an early night.
    I won’t be walking stupid distances like this again....I hope 😬
    Buenas noches.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Castilbanco - Altadena de la Plata

    September 21, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Day2 Castiliblanco to Altadena de la Plata
    It was an early start from the Albergue to the next pueblo 30kms away.
    The only problem was walking 16kms along a road before turning into a national park.
    The first few hours were in the dark but after dawn the temperature quickly rose in the 30C again.
    The trail passed through cork plantations. I had to carry 3 litres of water as there were no facilities.
    There were few peregrines on the trail. As the heat of the day became worse, I got slower and slower. I had to take many water breaks.
    The real sting in the tail came in the last kilometre when I had to climb 300ft over a hill to drop down to the pueblo. I really struggled to get to the top but my roar, when I did get there, must have been heard in Seville.
    I literally staggered into the village 7.5 hours after setting out. Although, I must have stunk to high heaven, I went into a restaurant and ordered the menu of the day.
    The waitress was lovely. I drank 3 litres of water with my meal which really restored my energy.
    I am now settled in the municipal Albergue in this pueblo.
    Tomorrow’s distance will be 14kms to El Real de la Jara. I could walk another 20kms to Monesterio but I am not going to push my luck.
    Hasty luego.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Altadena de la Plata - A good day

    September 22, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Day 3 Altadena de la Plata to El Real de la Jara
    14km 3.5 hours.
    I set off from the wonderful municipal Albergue at 6.45am. There were only 6 peregrinos in the dorm Most were walking to Monestrio 34km. After the last few brutal days, I opted for 14kms particularly as it will be much hotter today.
    The first few hours were spent walking alone in darkness through rural farms.
    Thankfully the dogs, I encountered in the farmsteads, were curious and not aggressive.
    I meet a few of the peregrinos on the path. They had stopped for breakfast.
    I passed through vast areas of goats and black pigs feeding on acorns. The whole area is called the North Sierra National Park. The area is vast.
    After a few big hills, I finally arrived in El Real de la Jara at 10.15am. My day walk was complete. I stopped at the municipal Albergue at the entrance to the village. It was empty. The routine is grab a bed, do your admin and the hospilardo calls at sometime to register you and take the 10euro payment. The Albergue looked very dark, unclean and uninviting.
    There was a private Albergue a few doors down that had good reports and more importantly WiFi for the same price.
    As it’s Saturday, most places are closed. I did manage a sandwich in a bar and to get some fruit. This weight loss program should achieve some results.
    Tomorrow will be 20km (around 5 hours) to Monesterio. As it will be Sunday, I will start early to be in time before the restaurants and shops close.
    Hasty luego.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    El Real de la Jara to Monesterio

    September 23, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Day 4 El Real de la Jara to Monesterio
    21km (5 Hours)

    Yesterday afternoon was spent relaxing on the sun terrace of the Albergue charting to the other pilgrims.
    A few exhausted peregrinos arrived late afternoon absolutely broken down by the heat. We all shared our food and fruit with them.
    It was an early night to get up at 6am. That was the intention until my Dutch room partner started snoring. I know that I have firm but my anti-snoring mouth guard seems to be working.😬 I hope....
    I was out the door for 6.30am and on the path. I had an elderly German lady and her son in front of me.
    The path was a gravel track and uninspiring. It meandered across the countryside. As it became dawn, I was almost halfway through today’s route. I walked a few kilometres with the lady and son. She set a quick pace and her life story was fascinating.
    I stopped at a service station for a quick breakfast but didn’t linger as there were lots of coach parties there.
    The path continued through aa eucalyptus forest tunnel between a minor road and a motorway. The last three kilometres was staggering along a dusty road into the town.
    I was first into the Albergue. The hospilardo could speak fairly good english but we conversed in simple Spanish for 30 mins. I really enjoyed it.
    The German lady and son arrived a hour later. She had fallen and badly cut her nose. I helped clean her up and she was taken to a doctor.
    That was my day on the Via de la Plata....    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne
    1

    Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos

    September 24, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Day 5 Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos
    21km (5.25 hours)
    As it was Sunday yesterday, most shops were shut. I managed to get a meal but it really wasn’t very good.
    Spent the evening catching up with email etc. The big bonus was that I had a room to myself.
    I set off this morning in total darkness at 6.45am. It was still very warm (24C).
    The path quickly left the road onto a gravel side road and that was it until I reached this pueblo.
    As dawn rose, I met and walked with couple of Americans, I’ve got to know over the past few days.
    We quickly ate up the kilometres chatting away.
    With about 7 kilometres to go, they took a break and I carried on. The temperature was now 34C.
    I stopped about 2 kilometres out from the pueblo to change my socks. The distance sign put this walk into perspective.
    I joined a fellow Irishman, Rory. We carried on to the Albergue where we checked in. Both of us wanted a simple meal and luckily found a fantastic Casi Supermercado.
    Admin done, I am now chilling in a restored convent. Really strange building and only four peregrinos staying here.
    Tomorrow, I will walk to a large town called Zafra.
    That was my day on the Via de la Plata    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Fuente de Cantos to Zafra

    September 25, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Day 6 Fuente de Cantos to Zafra
    24km (5.5 hours)

    Last night, only four peregrinos stayed in the Albergue. It was a very strange place. The Albergue was converted from a convent in 2009 and was trying to be a rural hotel as well.
    We washed our clothes in the sinks and had to flush the toilet by filling a bucket from the sink.
    The positives were that my bed and sheets were fresh and it cost 10 euros.
    I was on the Camino for 7am and as I left the pueblo in the dark; got talking to a shepherd moving his flock along a recently cut corn field. When I say talking, it was more like charades because of his accent. He seemed to pleased to have met a pilgrim that morning.
    The first village was only 6 kilometres along although nothing was open.
    The region, I am walking through, is called Extremadura. It and Northern Andalusia pride it’s black hams. Whilst, the dried, acorn fed ham looks amazing hanging up. The reality of how some of these animals are treated is something else.
    As you pass the pig farms in Extremadura, the stench is indescribable. it is 10x worse than some sudden deaths I’ve been to.
    Thankfully, the terrain started to change today for the better. I walked through vineyards, olive groves and recently cut corn fields.
    I really felt my spirits lift after the depressing sights of the pig farms.
    The temperature rose to 32C again and just as my water ran out, I arrived in a small pueblo called Puebla de Sancho Pérez. I decided to treat myself to a beer and ice lolly.
    I carried on the last four kilometres to Zafra. I stumbled upon the Albergue here by accident.
    Admin now completed. Body restored to some form of semblance so that I can do this all again tomorrow.
    I will try to have a wander around the town. It is recommended, however my feet might decide otherwise.
    And that was my day on the Via de la Plata    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Zafra to Villiafranca de los Barros

    September 26, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Day 7 Zafra to Villiafranca de kid Barros
    20kms (5 hours)

    The Albergue in Zafra was wonderful. It was set in a traditional Spanish house. The Mama Hospilerada really looked after us.
    When I came to register in the Albergue, you have to produce your passport, pilgrim’s credential and 12 Euro’s (b&b). I took my straight out of top of my rucksack. She had to fan it as my passport was roasting hot. She immediately went and got me a class of cold water.
    I didn’t go around Zafra last night as I was very foot sore.
    Breakfast was at 6am this morning which consisted of coffee, juice and croissant. I set off through the city with Jacob (Dutch) and Rory (Irish). They set a fast pace out of the city. As we wound through the city, we were constantly greeted by the steeet cleaners wishing us Buen Camino.
    We had a gradual 100m ascent up a hill overlooking the town.
    Our next pueblo, Puebla de Sancho Pérez, was only 5km on the other side of the hill. We were there in 45 minutes.
    After that, we each set own pace and gradually spread out on the trail, in our own physical and mental space.
    The Via de la Plata route was lovely. Sunrise was partially covered by a light cloud which meant it stayed slightly cooler.
    I did meet some locals walking greyhounds?
    The sole of my right foot has a whooper of a blister but thankfully that is not holding me back.
    I stopped a few times to change socks and have some food and water. You normally catch up to the other peregrinos doing the same during the day. There are no facilities so you have to carry everything and replenish every evening.
    I finally arrived in Villiafranca de los Barros around midday.
    Admin completed, I’ve had a few poco beers and tapas.
    Tomorrow is a 27km day....
    And that was 7th day (176 kilometres walked) on the Via de la Plata.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne
    3

    Villafrancia de los Barros to Torremejia

    September 27, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Day 8 Villiafranca de los Barros to Torremejia
    27kims (5.5 hours)

    The Albergue in Villiafranca was wonderful. It has another Mama hospilarda who really looked after us.

    I tried miserably to get something to eat but failed. I resorted to faving my emergency rations. There is not a lot in these Spanish towns.

    I ended up watching an amazing thunder storms racing across the plains as the sunset. It was spectacular, deafening and truly powerful. We, periginos, sat in the balcony in the Albergue as the clouds, wind and rain raced across the plain. Only when there was a HUGE thunder clap above us, did we go in. To add to the thunder and lightening, the Albergue is next door to a church bell tower. So every hour, 5mibs before and after the hour, the bells rang. Every half hour, they also rang, so nobody got a lot of sleep.

    Our little band were out the door at 7am and on the trail. We had to avoid the grape harvesters bringing in the vines. It didn’t stop me grabbing a bunch of two for my breakfast. Today was 27kms long. 13kms was on a Roman road which was straight as an arrow. The entire 26kms was through vineyards. I found very few shaded spots.
    I arrived in Torremejiajust after midday.
    Admin completed. I have had my first descent meal in a few days.
    Tomorrow is a short 15km walk to Mérida. An ancient Roman city. I intend to explore it and will post lots of pictures.
    And that was my day on the Via de la Plata......    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Torremejia to Merida

    September 28, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Torremejia to Mérida

    Distance 15km (3.5 hours)

    Seven peregrinos stayed in the Albergue last night. It was very hot in the dorm but we all had bottom bunks.
    There was no real rush this morning as we only had 15kms to Mérida.
    A few hardy souls left at 6am as they were planning on not stopping there and carrying on.
    I had a leisurely breakfast and set off at 8am. Generally meandered the path and finally arrived at the Albergue at 11.30am.
    Admin was quickly completed, which was just as well as the Albergue started filling up with VERY fresh peregrinos just starting their Camino.
    I was out the door to see the famous Roman Theatre of Mérida. I even got a discount based on I was a peregrino....bonus!
    The theatre was stunning and for you, culture vultures, I have taken lots of pictures.
    The other news is that tomorrow morning I will be taking a bus to Salamanca. I have booked a hotel for two nights and am going to give my feet a chance to heal. It is a lot cooler North and I will restart on Monday.
    Standby for more photographs from there.
    And that was my 9th day on the Via de la Plata    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne
    1

    Merida to Salamanca ALSA

    September 29, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Day 10 Mérida to Salamanca ALSA

    The Albergue in Mérida was full last night with new peregrinos starting their Caminos or just travelling through.
    I had a short wander around the corner of the Albergue to view the spectacular aqueduct. 1 century BC, it took water from a river 6km away for the city and stood at 285ft tall.
    I said my farewells to my little band of peregrinos and had an early night. I will miss them as we have grown close together.
    I slept through until 7.15am and went to the nearby bus station. I ended up travelling with another American pilgrim who was making his way north of Zamora to carry on his Camino where he finished last year.
    The journey to Salamanca took four hours over particularly tough terrain and some BIG hills. I have made the right decision. Thank you all for your support.
    I arrived in Salamanca at 2pm and checked into my hotel/apartment room for two nights. Quick admin, I was out the door to check the city out.
    It is lively and very beautiful.,I spent two hours wandering around and now relaxing with my feet up. The temperature here is 26C so will be better for walking.
    Tomorrow, I will explore some more but as it’s Sunday most places will be shut.
    My feet are healing. Hopefully I will be able to put some reasonable distances in now. I can either slow down or continue onto Finisterre this time. I am not bothered about collecting my Compostela this time.
    And that was my 10th day on the Via de la Plata.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Rest Day Salamanca

    September 30, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Rest Day Salamanca

    Distance walked 10km

    Great rest overnight so out the door early into this beautiful city while it’s cool and before the crowds.
    Started the morning with chocolate and churros. Yum! 😊
    Wandered through mainly empty street and then visited the Gothic Cathedral and the Old Cathedral next door. Because I am a peregrino, I was given a discount and another stamp in my credencial.
    I went to a mass in the Gothic Cathedral before touring the amazing sites within.
    I wandered through the narrow lanes and generally crowd watched.
    At lunchtime, I had a Cana and tapas. Absolutely wonderful. You can tell the favourite places to eat because of the number of tissues thrown on the floor. The larger the number the more popular the place.
    The locals, as soon as they find out that you are a peregrino, are lovely. They really go out of their way to help you.
    It’s 30C here this afternoon, tomorrow will be 23C. Ideal weather to walk. Will see how my feet hold out but I feel rested and relaxed. Feet are good. I will continue my Camino tomorrow.
    And that was my 11th day on the Via de la Plata    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Salamanca to El Cubo de Tierra

    October 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Salamanca to El Cubo de Tierra del Vino

    Distance 36km (7.5 hours)

    I set out from the hotel at 6.15 am. It was cold with a Northerly headwind. I had to put an extra layer on. There were few Camino fechas out of the city. You just have to keep heading North.
    I seem to make quick progress in the dark. By 9am, I had walked 15km to Calzada de Valdunciel. Nothing was opened but I managed a quick snack from my pack and carried on.
    The Camino basically followed the road to Zamora. It was a pretty boring landscape of cut corn fields and dead sunflowers.
    To pass the kilometres, I listen to Bruce Springsteen!s autobiography. An excellent story.
    I watched lines of ants crossing the trail and birds of prey hunting.
    I finally arrived at this small pueblo before 2pm. Registered in the Albergue and went straight out for lunch in a nearby bar.
    I will spend the rest of the day relaxing. Tomorrow will be 31kms to Zamora.
    And that was my 12th day on the Via de la Plata.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne
    2

    El Cubo del Tierra to Zamora

    October 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    El Cubo del Tierra to Zamora
    Distance 31kms (7 hours)

    Last night was interesting chatting to Austrian cyclists, German and Spanish peregrinos. I had a great night’s sleep and set off st 6.30am with Roderosky Rodero.
    It was VERY cold, around 4C. Although Roderosky speaks no English, we are clearly kindred spirits as we get by with my limited Spanish.
    We set a 5km pace in the darkness. We arrived at a small pueblo at just after dawn and found that the only bar/cafe was closed.
    The whole of the Via de la Plata is either loose gravel or road. The scenery undulates for huge distances. You are forced to ponder on life/feelings or distract yourself with music or podcasts.
    We walked on for a few kilometres more before Roderosky shared his food with me.
    By late morning, we again stopped for something to eat before arriving tired and foot sore in Zamora. What a beautiful city.
    The Albergue is donation only but is next to an old roman church.
    Lunch devoured, admin completed, I am out to explore the city.
    And that was my 13th day on the Via de la Plata    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Zamora to Montamarta

    October 3, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Zamora to Montamarta

    Distance 19kms (4 hours)

    Yesterday evening, I ended up walking another 7 kilometers to the 31kms that I walked to get to Zamora.
    What a beautiful place. I will definitely return. The Cathedral is 12th century with Roman and Gothic features. As a peregrino, I got a reduced entry fee. As an ex-Catholic, I found some of the statues and side chapels too ornate and strange.
    I wandered through the city and using my limited Spanish, I managed to locate and purchase sone new insoles for my shoes. My feet certainly need a break from the rough gravel trails.
    The Albergue was fantastic and the hospilardos were from Denver, USA. They were kind and provided us with a wonderful breakfast. I had a lie in until 06.30am and set off on the Camino with rodersky. The first order of the day was a cafe con leche and find our way north out of the city.
    It was very cool this morning. I wore three layers.
    Rodersky and I set a great pace together. Although, he speaks no English, we get along with my limited Spanish. We enjoy each other's company on the Camino.
    The terrain is vast open countryside with not many features. The trail is tough stone-gravel that is brutal on the soles of your feet. You find yourself naturally walking on the wheel tracks. There is no shade or shelter from the north headwind. You find a lot of time for inner reflection.
    Today, my insoles really worked for me. Instead of hobbling the last few kilometers, I arrived at the Albergue feeling quite relaxed. The Albergue is an old school set on the edge of the village. For the first time in two weeks, I have been able to machine wash all of my clothes.
    We immediately completed our daily admin and went into the pueblo for lunch. Unfortunately, the only restaurant in this pueblo is closed. Rodershas prepared a Spanish pasta with tomatoes and ham with rustic bread. A few cervezas later, I am full and intend to relax.
    And that was my 14th day on the Via de la Plata    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela

    October 4, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Montemarta to Granja de Moreruela

    Distance 23 kms (5 hours)

    I didn't sleep very well last night probably because I ate some cheese and bread late in the evening. There were only 4 of us in the Albergue last night.
    I was awake at 6am, got up and tended to my feet. I generally protect vulnerable toes with tape. Roderosky and I set off at 7.30am. As usual, it was cold so I had all my top layers on.
    We negotiated our way out of the village in darkness. We had to carefully look out for the yellow fechas.
    We walked along a motorway with little traffic on it. We passed a huge ancient castle in the middle of nowhere.
    By 9am, we needed a coffee and we're hopeful of finding one in Fontanillas de Castro. No such luck but we did have a breakfast break and shared the last of our bread, cheese and fruit. A true pilgrim meal.
    We carried on the Camino a further 3kms to Riego del Camino.
    Roderosky is a Spanish version of Jez Nasse. He is the type that will find water in a desert. He knew a hospilardo in the pueblo who made us a wonderful cup of coffee while we chatted away.
    The last 5kms were on a minor road into Granja de Moreruela. We had a deserved beer, checked into the Albergue and immediately went back to the bar for a meal.
    The Albergue is full tonight (8 peregrinos).
    Tomorrow, Roderosky and I will part company as he continues on to Astorga and I join the Camino Sanabres to Santiago. That is the way of the Camino. I have enjoyed his friendship and company.
    And that was my 15th day on the Via de la Plata.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Granja de Moreruela to Tabera

    October 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Granja de Moreruela to Tábara

    Distance 25km (5.5 hours)

    I said my farewell to Rogerosky at 6am this morning. That is the way of the Camino. He is a good man and I enjoyed walking with him for three days.
    I set off at 06.30am in total darkness. It was cool and there wasn’t any wind. As soon as I left the village, l was joined by Ankel, a Spaniard from Bilboa. Together, we set a blistering pace in the darkness. We quickly completed the first 7km when we took a wrong turn and had to back track half a kilometre. Your instincts tell you that you are not going the right way. We were quickly back on track.
    We walked a lot of road today. We finally got to Fanamontanos de Tábara at around 10am. We found the only cafe/bar in the place. The lady prepared a wonderful tortilla for us and a cafe con leche for the princely sum of 2.60 euros.
    We walked the final 5 kilometres to Tábara and the Albergue. I passed over Spain’s version of the H2S railway track. It is nearing completion and will have super fast trains running from Seville to Madrid.
    We are the first peregrinos at the Albergue. We were fretted with a warm welcome and a cold beer. It is a traditional Galician Albergue. The hispilardo wash’s our clothes and provides us with a meal this evening. You are simply asked to make a suitable donation.
    And that was my 16th day in the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne
    2

    Tabara to Cadzilla de Tera

    October 6, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Tábara to Calzadilla de Tera

    Distance 38 kms (7 hours)

    I had an amazing evening in the Municipal Albergue (donation) run by Jose. Eleven peregrinos sat down to a pasta soup and Zamora rice dish. This was followed by grapes and lots of Jose’s home brew grappa. We were each given a philosophical reading from a Camino book. At the table, there were German, Dutch, French, Austrian, Spanish, Italian. No one spoke English so the whole table conversation was in Spanish. I was totally immersed in it all and actually understood a lot that was said. It might have been the grappa.....
    This morning, my new band of desperados and I set off at 06.30am. As usual, it was cold and very dark. Ankel from Bilboa and Carlos from Pamplona set a blistering pace.
    At 09.30 am, we stopped in a small village for cafe con leche and a chorizo tortilla. We had already walked 16kms.
    We carried on arriving at Santa Marta de Tera at 11.30am (26kms). I was delighted because I thought that it was an easy day. We visited a famous church in the pueblo that has one of the oldest pieces of stonework depicting St. James. It is used to promote the Via de la Plata.
    There I was feeling all pleased with myself when the boys filled their water bottles and started walking AWAY from the Albergue. What! “Vamos, Mick, El Albergue esta en la proximal pueblo” (We go Mick, the Albergue is in the next village). That was another 11 kms.
    Off, I set limping as I have a BIG blister on my right big toe for another 3 hours.
    The only thing about pain is to switch it off and just walk in the zone. Carlos carried on with the blistering pace and we finally arrived in Calzadilla de Tera.
    The Albergue is on the top floor of a retired persons social club. There are six beds with a clean shower and toilet. It is donativo. It looks like something out of ‘One flew over the cuckoo’s nest.’
    Admin completed. Toe is heavily bandaged. Now to rest.
    And that was my 17th day on the Via de la Plata/Camino Sanabres.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Calzadilla de Tera to Mombuey

    October 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Calzadilla de Tera to Mombuey

    Distance 25 kms (5.5 hours)

    Last night, my Spanish friends managed to get the landlord of a nearby bar to prepare a simple meal for us otherwise it was going to be crisps and fruit.
    It was an early night and back up at 7am. I set off alone at 07.30am. It was only 4C and it felt very cold. The trail was difficult to pick up but eventually I managed to get back on track using a map app.
    As dawn rose, I was buzzed by bats flying low. I crossed a huge dam and saw huge banks of mist on it’s waters.
    I stopped a few kilometres past the dam at an Albergue which invites passing peregrinos in to make their own tea/coffee. I gad a badly needed coffeee to warm myself up. I also caught up with Ankel.
    I got talking a Dutch couple walking from Holland to Grenada with two donkeys. They had been on the road since 1st September. The donkeys decided how far they walked each day, usually 15-20kms.
    The terrain gradually changed into savannah countryside. My left leg was really slowing me down with pain but I persisted. This Camino can be a lonely place. You gave lots of time for soul searching and thoughts. Thus can make you mentally strong. I think that is one of the main reasons I walk these Caminos.
    Eventually, I arrived in Mombuey and stopped in a local supermarket to ask for directions to the Albergue. I managed to knock a display down with my rucksack. The shopkeeper was kind and patiently showed me where it was.
    I arrived at the very small and very basic Albergue to meet up with Ankel and Carlos.
    Quick admin and we were out for lunch. This was followed by a much needed siesta.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Mombuey to Puebla de Sanabria

    October 8, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Mombuey to Puebla de Sanabria

    Distance 31 kms (7.5 hours)

    Last night, our little band (5) of peregrinos settled down in our little basic Albergue. It was flipping freezing. We are at 1000m altitude. I eventually dropped off asleep after being woken up by spasms in my feet. I have tendinitis in my left leg and it hurts.....
    This morning, someone’s alarm went off and with all the bags rustling, doors slamming, head torches in your face, there seemed like little point in feigning sleep. We all got up.
    I packed my kit, wrapped up well and stepped out into the freezing cold. As my left leg was in a lot of pain, I made the conscious decision to walk the first 17 kms on the road thereby avoiding the trail. The others set out before me and it was apparent that Laura from Sardinia was lost. She eventually just followed me. As dawn rose a few hours later, she stopped and questioned me in an Italian accent ‘Mick, this is NOT the Camino!’ ‘I know but it’s the quickest way to get to the next village and you can’t see anything on the Camino in the dark.’
    We arrived in the village (17kms) at 09.00am and relaxed. My ankle was badly swollen. By 10am, Carlos and Ankel (the fast peregrinos) appeared. They had got lost in the dark. I had breakfast with them and found a Pharmacy to get some anti inflammatory cream.
    The Camino then meandered it’s way through stunning countryside. I really enjoyed the Camino. It was beautiful. I listened to music on my iPod. The last few kilometres were tough as the medication grew off.
    I arrived at the Albergue Casa Luz. It is wonderful. Admin quickly completed, I was out the door for something to eat.
    I caught up with Carlos and Ankel. We had a traditional Zamora meal of pasta soup and indescribable parts of pig. I was so hungry I ate everything put in front of me.
    Tomorrow, I have taken the decision to take a train to Ourense and relax for a few days to get my leg rest and heel. I will then carry on to Santiago.
    And that was my 19th day on the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Puebla de Sanabria to Ourense

    October 9, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Puebla de Sanabria to Ourense

    Rest Day

    I had around 10 hours sleep last night and felt very rested. The Albergue was very cosy.
    My band of peregrinos all set out at 7 am in the freezing cold. I will miss them but that is the way of the Camino.
    I left around 8.30am for the train station. I was hoping that I could have a coffee whilst waiting for my train to Ourense. There was a cafe but it was closed.
    Caught the train and the journey was a pleasant experience.
    I arrived in Ourense around midday. I have booked a room in a hostal directly across the road and also on the Camino route.
    As I was early, I left my rucksack and walking poles at the hiostel and wandered (well hobbled) into the city center. I crossed the ‘new’ roman bridge and found the plaza mayor.
    I just wandered around the streets, visited the cathedral. Special rates for peregrinos again. It is a very impressive and wealthy cathedral.
    I stopped in a small restaurant full of locals and had lunch.
    The remainder of my day will be sorting clothes, feet and generally sitting with a bag of ice on my leg reading and watching movies.
    Thank you all for your kind and some weird comments.
    That was my 20th day on the Via de la Plata/ Camino Sanabres.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne
    1

    Ourense - Rest Day

    October 10, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Ourense - Rest day 2

    Distance walked 8kms

    Rested yesterday evening with a bag of ice on my leg. Had a good night’s sleep and woke this morning to my leg feeling better.
    I found a laundrette around the corner so while I washed everything other than I was stood up in, I had chocolate and churros for breakfast. Yum!
    I explored more of the old city. It is very compact. Nearby, I visited the thermal baths in the city centre. I found thermal spring water fountains.. The water was very hot. Wandered through the market area and stopped for a cafe con leche.
    I fell upon a Decathelon store and bought some better gloves for the cold mornings and some better walking socks as my current ones after 500kms are threadbare.
    I stopped in a little bakery and bought the most delicious curried chicken pasties. The lady laughed aloud when I delighted in my first bite.
    I decided to visit a famous monument called the Monastery of St. Francis. The Albergue is next to it. As I approached it, I spotted a familiar figure because of the hat he was carrying. It was my fellow peregrino Ruadhri from Donegal. He had caught a train from Zamora to Ourense and intends to carry on walking to Santiago tomorrow. We will no doubt walk together. While I visited the cloisters in the monastery, Roraigh went to register at the Albergue only to be told that as he had not walked into Ourense today that he would have to wait until 4pm. Fair, I suppose, based on the fact that some peregrinos will have walked big distances today.
    So, we went for lunch and caught up with news of our Camino and the other peregrinos we had walked with.
    This evening, I have another bag of ice on my leg and relaxing.
    I have walked 8kms today and the same yesterday.
    I will be back in the Camino Sanabres tomorrow. I will be walking at a slower pace.
    And that was my 21st day on the Via de la Plata/Camino Sanabres.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Ourense to Cea

    October 11, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Ourense to Cea

    Distance 23 kms ( 5.5 hours)

    This morning was very wet. Heavy rain persisted as I left the city at 7.30am. The route out was not very clear.
    My leg and feet felt good. I took my time and eventually came to a tunnel under a train line. You had to press a pedestrian priority button to pass through a 200m tunnel. Unfortunately, the cars seem to ignore the pedestrian warning. As I walked through, I made sure that oncoming car DID wait as I deliberately held the points of my walking poles out to my side. Apparently, none of them wanted a BIG scratch down the side of their cars.
    I then had a 200m steep climb. It was hard work but thankfully the rain stopped.
    I really concentrated in slowing my pace and by 9.00am, I stopped at Casa Caesar. This is a well known site on the Camino. Caesar, a retired truck driver, welcomes pilgrims in for coffee, drink and his fantastic cakes. I was the first peregrino of the day. He really gave me a warm welcome. We chatted away in Spanish and after coffee and cake, I sampled his wines and spirits at 9.00am!
    I carried on until my fellow peregrino Ruadhri caught up with me. We walked the last 10km together. We found a fallen tree across the route and had to do some cross country waking to get around it.
    We arrived at the Albergue at 1pm and quickly did our admin before going for lunch.
    The next few days will be only 17kms. My leg felt good but I have no intention of pushing my luck.
    And that was my 21st day on the Via de Kate Plata/Camino Sanabres.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneVia De La Plata 2018Mick Byrne

    Cea to Castro Dozon

    October 12, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Cea to Castro Dozón

    Distance 15km (3 hours)

    I had a relaxing evening in the Albergue. There were about 25 peregrinos overnight. As predicted, there was a snore fest. I did not participle and managed to have a great night’s sleep with the aid of my ear plugs. At 6.30am, a music alarm tried to walk everyone up. Everyone ignored it and lay on. I eventually got up, had some fruit for breakfast and generally relaxed.
    I finally left the Albergue at 8.30am. Sunrise was at 8.40am. I passed some peregrinos who seemed to be waiting for someone to lead the way out of town. I happily obliged.
    It has been a cool, overcast day with drizzle. The weather is not unlike the U.K.
    There seemed to be a lot of peregrinos on the Camino. I happily wandered although and cruises up some big hills. You were right Mike about the terrain.
    I eventually arrived at the Xunta Albergue at 11.30am. The bonus to being early is that you get the three important things to a peregrino:
    1. Bottom bunk
    2. Space around your bunk
    3. Electric socket
    Simple things but they mean a lot.
    Admin completed, I have eaten lunch and will now relax for the afternoon.
    And that was my 23rd day on the Via de la Plata / Camino Sanabres.    Read more

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