Spain
Vilanova de Arousa

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    • Day 16

      CP Day 13 Morning Boat Ride

      September 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

      We left our lovely apartment in the dark so that we could make it to the boat on time. (There is only one boat per day.) The pilgrim boat took us up the Ria de Arousa to the Ria Ulla, which is the route taken by the men who carried the body of James The Apostle, after he was martyred in Jerusalem. There are 12 anchored crosses along the river, marking the maritime path.

      The skies were amazing. We were late to arrive and so were seated on top, and although we were cold, oh! the views!

      They served coffee and bread on board, and most everyone was jubilant. The women on the boat sang along with songs from ABBA and Gloria Gaynor😂
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    • Day 14

      Off to the seaside👏👏👏

      May 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      After a very simple, but very nice supper of cheese and ham bocadillas, with added olive oil, then cake and jam, accompanied, of course by a bottle of the local Albariño, we settled down for the night.
      Sid, Marcel, Mouse and Mog had their own little adventure and had a go at swimming and sunbathing whilst we were eating! 🙄😂
      We were being picked up at 0730ish so made sure we were ready that evening. The owners turned up just as we were packing up, armed with a loaf of bread and lots of pre-packed croissants and cakes - how lovely of them! They asked us if we wanted a lift back to the Monastery the next morning, but we'd already asked our lovely taxi driver to pick us up, so we declined, telling them we'd walk instead. 🙄😂
      It was a good night's sleep, and the taxi turned up to take us a) back to the Monastery, and b) 7.5km further on to Os Castaños, where Julie and I would begin our walk.
      There were a few pilgrims ready for the off when we arrived in Armenteira, but Luke and Ray headed straight off and, knowing their speed, they would have left them far behind!
      Ray was determined to take the bread our hosts had left us and attached it to the back of his rucksack. Luke was thrilled, listening to it swinging to and fro for 5 hours. A true pilgrim! 😂
      As soon as we reached Os Castaños in the taxi it began raining, so we put our waterproof jackets on. This route is known as the Stone and Water route as you spend quite a lot of time walking beside a river. It was beautiful but would have been even more beautiful if the sun had been shining (we'd had to stop to put our waterproof trousers on, too, as it was raining quite heavily). A first breakfast was consumed along the way, just one of the pre-packed goodies, and Sid made a new friend 🧡
      After 6km or so, we reached Puente Arnelas, where we stopped for our second breakfast - this time, it was a tortilla bocadilla 😋😋😋. As we left the café, Luke and Ray walked across the road! They'd walked 13+km in the time it had taken us to walk 6.2km and eat breakfast 😂😂😂.
      We walked the rest of the way, about 11km, together, through small villages and past farms and lots of vines, presumably the Albariño grapes. The sun had turned up by now and it was a great walk.
      A stop for our celebratory beer, with about 4km to go, was a little previous, but it was very welcome, and a visit to a local church, where we lit a candle for Nigel, gave us a little rest before the last few kms.
      Conversation in the bar turned to buffs (the things you wear around your neck), but neither Luke nor Ray understood what I was talking about until Julie said, "buffs"! There followed quite a protracted discussion (still ongoing) about how we should pronounce the letter U in words such as buff, buffet, puff (as in pastry!🙄😂), Buffy (The Vampire Slayer) etc. It developed into the 'oo' sound as in book, look, etc. Of course, being a northerner, I'm absolutely correct in my pronunciations, but it's caused a lorra laffs!😂😂😂
      We're now in Vilanova de Arousa, in the most amazing apartment that overlooks the water, and it's from here we take another boat journey in the morning (Marcel can hardly contain his excitement 😀), this one for about 90 minutes.
      Luke and Ray have been foraging (hunter-gatherers, if you can say it correctly!) and we've enjoyed a delicious pasta pesto with chicken and salad (with wine, of course!)
      The boys can come again!
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    • Day 15

      Vilanova de Arousa

      May 5 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Rain turned into sunshine! Tho very muddy, a beautiful morning on the walk of stone and water portion of the camino. The rivers are overflowing and loud, many old abandoned stone millhouses alongside. View from my window out to the sea.Read more

    • Day 8

      Our digs

      April 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      We got an apartment with a huge terrace on the beach because we could. Yes, it was awesome. We are basking in the sun and soaking in the luxury because we will be staying in a mixed bed dorm (albergue) in Santiago de compestela which will be the opposite of this...Read more

    • Day 16

      The Way of Stone and Water

      June 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      A 2 km warmup walk from our hotel back to the trail sets us off onto my most anticipated segment yet of this journey.

      The Ruta de Pedra et de Agua is a magical forest walk along the Armenteira River. A happily bubbling brook to the right accompanies us along the trail which features many remnants of old water mills. All the way there is evidence of the ways water has historically been diverted towards the grinding stones. It's impressive, this ancient use of controlled energy. It's fantastically peaceful here, and we slow accordingly.

      I'm reminded of a myth I read about the nearby Armenteira Monastery. The story goes that the Abbot Ero has become mired in doubts surrounding the afterlife. To contemplate this problem, he goes walking in the forest beside the monastery. He wanders, he ponders, until a birdsong wakes him from his contemplations. He returns to the monastery only to find that 200 years have passed.

      This seems that sort of magical forest, it feels like a place outside of time. The constant murmer of water over rock is so soothing, it lulls you into almost a dreamlike state.

      I wonder, I used to admire the rock, for it's solid implacability. Now I think I rather more admire the water, which always finds a way, and lends its energy to further others goals along the way. All the while steadily, slowly, wearing down the stubborn rock.

      So easy to lapse into contemplation in this tranquil environment. But the Camino remains the Camino, we are not alone here and we come by other pilgrims. We've met Bijan and Sheila, Iranian and South African friends walking together. Sheila lives in Malta, and her eyes light up when we say not only do we know it, we got married there! Bijan is a retired neurosurgeon...we've met so many doctors on this path! He's wearing a cap with Switzerland on it, and it turns out he was hiking in the Lucerne area last year.

      We hopscotch along the rest of the trail with them, meeting up again as they leave the riverside lunch spot we're entering.

      The trail has changed after lunch, and we now are walking along grapevines bursting with the promise of a heavy harvest. Tiny green tendrils reach out to us as we pass, and I think even their delicate grip might be enough to reel me in. This part of Spain is spectacular.

      However, as the day wears on and the sun beats relentlessly down it becomes a grind. A completely unnecessary mountain is situated between us and our goal, Vilanova d'Arousa. It's over 28 degrees and late in the afternoon before this couple of sweat soaked stumbling walkers gratefully find our nights beds.

      As always, shower and change and drop the packs, and we are refreshed enough to venture out. We need to book a boat ride for tomorrow, up the inlet to Pontecesures. Accomplishing this with minimal fuss, we're off to wander when who do we see but Bea. So a beer together turns into dinner, where we are joined by the passing Bijan and Sheila!

      So a lively table spontaneously arises yet again. I can't describe the joy of this easy camaraderie that marks the Camino. People share. Their stories, their lives, themselves. It's become a most prized part of this experience for me.
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    • Day 5

      Cuarto dia

      May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Da Armenteira a Villanova de Arousa. Il nostro cammino è il cammino espiritual. In pochi lo percorrono. La natura ci ha fagocitati. Boschi e ruscelli ovunque disseminati da mulini antichi. Fiori bellissimi e vigneti che producono Albariño.Read more

    • Day 14

      Day 13 - 24 km to O Milladoiro

      November 1 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      A short walk to the marine terminal. A 1.5 hour boat ride to Pontecesures. A short walk through town and 3 km more to Padron. It’s a lovely historic town and I was thinking I would stay the day and finish walking tomorrow but today is ‘the day of death’ in Spain, a holiday, so everything was closed. So, I paid respects at the Church of Saint James, found an Americano and a toilet which perked me up (nothing worse than 15+ pds pack putting pressure on the belly when ya gotta go) and I started walking.

      I wasn’t sure how far I’d go today. Lots of pilgrims were finishing today. I thought maybe getting to Santiago but by mid afternoon I’d had enough. In keeping with my commitment to be kinder to myself, I stopped. Tomorrow will be a very short day with only 7 km to go to finish.

      Today was my least favourite walking (scenery and terrain not as beautiful as past two weeks, it was hot, little shade). Tonight I’m at a super modern hostel. I’ve met some lovely English speaking (yeah) pilgrims. I’m planning to turn in early.
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    • Day 8

      Walk to coastal town Vilanova de Arousa

      April 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      11.5 miles in 6 hrs. Last night we feasted on manchego cheese, potato omelette and moorish skewers then this morning our hotel made pilgrim to go bags with breakfast & lunch, so we're eating pretty well right now. We traveled the rest of the way down the mountains to the seaside where we booked our pilgrim boat to Padron tomorrow. We were stopped by a woman named Debora who ushered us into a pilgrim chapel where she sang the pilgrim blessing to us with her guitar then passed out much appreciated hugs. She reiterated that the pilgrimage is a metaphor for the personal baggage we carry every day, and that it is a time to reflect & let go of the things weighing us down. Food for thought on our stroll down the mountain. We agreed that if our personal baggage truly is a metaphor for the extra weight we carry, we're solid. Our bags were well planned and we don't carry more or less than we need. I get tired just looking at other hikers bags. Looks more like penance. 🤣😲Read more

    • Day 12

      Day in Vilanova de Arousa

      July 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      As no boat available, today was planned as a rest day.. After a casual walk around the town to find breakfast. I must have asked for something incorrectly as I was served squashed and toasted croissant 😂. After a lazy breakfast and more exploring, I decided to visit the Illa de Arousa, so popped back to the hostel to reclaim my shoes. I'd misread a sign thinking it was only 1.9km to get to the island; it turned out that that was the length of the bridge! My rest day ended up as a pleasant, but longer than intended, 17km.
      It was to be a day of misunderstanding as I had been invited to join a young Danish couple for dinner, but they weren't at the restaurant I thought they had named. Ended up eating alone, nice dish of garlic prawns but very garlicky. We arrived back at the hostel around the same time and laughed about the error.
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    • Day 6

      Bateas de mejillones

      October 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      Vilanova de Arousa is famous for their mejillones, aka mussels. Sadly, the restaurant where we had dinner the night before did not have any. 🫠

      There's literally hundred of these bateas where they cultivate mussels, and we witnessed one being harvested. Then I started thinking as to why we can't have these kinds of things in the Philippines.. 🤔Read more

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