Spania
Villar de Mazarife

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    • León to Villar de Mazarife

      9. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      The city of León was partying all night near our hotel in center of town. There were people singing and shouting in the street till about 7:30am.

      We got up at 7 and were out the door about 8. There was a great cafe operating not far away so we had very good juice (fresh squeezed as always), fresh croissant and coffee there before rejoining the Camino trail. It was a fairly pleasant walk out of León toward the west, passing the magnificent Parador hotel on the way. It’s a converted monastery and features in the film “The Way”.

      There followed some slightly grimy dormitory suburbs along the train line. Not far out of town we met our friend Chris from Utah. Then in Virgen del Camino, really an outer suburb of Leon, we had a 2nd coffee and bought a big ham sandwich, in case pickings were slim on the trail ahead on a Sunday. We also ran into our Danish friends there, Jens and Kristin.

      Just after Virgen del Camino the Way forks and we had booked a room along the more scenic side so we left our friends at that point. Pretty soon we were in open scrubby country with a few trees. It could have been outback Australia or Brazil. Red earth, blue sky.

      Conditions were cool (64F/17C) sunny and dry, often with a breeze, but the sun had induced quite a thirst in us when we entered the tiny village of Oncina de Valdeoncina. There was no bar to be found but the owner of a new albergue, Domus Oncinae, invited us in for a cold drink. The place looks very nice there and we enjoyed a rest stop and a Kas Naranja (orange fizzy drink). The next 5k or so were the best of the day. Wide open countryside, some farmed, most not, on a wide soft dirt track, with a nice breeze. That brought us to the village of Chozas de Abajo. Not expecting much we found a capacious bar with a large shaded veranda where we ate our ham sandwich, washed down by more iced Kas Naranja, and a delicious tomato tapas thing accompanying the soft drinks.

      After lunch and a foot airing it was a 4km trudge along a paved road to our destination of Villar de Mazarife.

      21.5km was our tally for the day, in excellent walking conditions.

      We checked into Albergue San Antonio de Padua: $85 for twin room, dinner and breakfast for 2, all very new.
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    • Dag 23

      Day 21 walking!

      30. mai, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      We started the walk in relatively nice temperature and were welcomed by the sound of a cuckoo as we started down a quiet country road. There were ditches on either side with water and lots croaking frogs! They seem to have an irrigation system rigged up to water the fields, perhaps from the snow-topped mountains that we’re walking towards! We passed by agricultural land and a farmer ploughing his field with a stork taking advantage of the overturned soil behind the tractor!
      We stopped for refreshments in Villavante and either there, or en route encountered many of the other Peregrinos from our Albergue!
      We also sort lots of nesting storks en route and can’t help by photograph them!
      We walked into historic Hospital de Orbigo across very old long bridge and under lots of unusual flags. It transpires that the town is hosting a jousting tournament this weekend and the flags all had heraldic symbols and we walked past the field for the event. We stopped here for lunch and it was starting to get very hot, and as we had walked about 17km, I elected to get the bus to our next destination while Fiona continued to walk. Think it got up to about 27 degrees …. bit too hot for walking comfortably…. but my toe seems ok so far 🤞
      Tonight we’re in private room (hooray!) in Hostal Juli in San Justo de La vega, about 3.5 Km before Astorga, after which we head into a mountainous area. We left the Meseta behind several days ago and so far the way has just been undulating, but it will get steeper again very soon!
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    • Dag 38

      Day 28 - Villar de Mazarife

      4. oktober 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      Back at it, 13 miles today. I did not want to get up today, let alone go walking for hours. However, after we got started I got back into walking.

      It is funny, I am so ready to come home, but at the same time I do not want this journey to end. Enjoy the update, I had to make two videos today.Les mer

    • Dag 38

      Day 28-Villar de Mazarife

      4. oktober 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      We didn't want to leave the Parador but it was time to hit the road. I stood on the balcony at 7am wishing the passing pilgrims a Buen Camino then we went downstairs for breakfast. First things first, we each snuck a ham and cheese sandwich for later. Pat said it was like a rich kid who shoplifts...they don't need to but they do it for the thrill. It turned out we really needed the sandwiches because when we were hungry, nothing was open.

      We had to walk through a couple busy suburbs before we got to the alternate route turnoff to Villar de Mozarife. It was a pretty walk in nature with little shade so I used my umbrella to keep cool. It's funny how towards the end of the walk I'm tired, hot and want it to be over but after a shower and cool beverage, I'm rejuvenated.

      Now we're just sitting in the courtyard watching our clothes dry. Our hostess just picked some apples and shared them with all of us.
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    • Dag 26

      Leon to Villar de Mazarife 20km 5 hrs

      30. september 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Day 22 on the trail. Some days it feels like we have just started, other times it feels like we have been doing this a lifetime. Today we left the hustle and bustle of the big and beautiful city of Leon and returned to the quiet country side, which we both agree is our preference. There were two paths to choose from, we took the alternate which is slightly longer but more beautiful. But still very little shadows . The days continue to be sunny and very hot. It’s nice to get off the trail early and into the shadow.
      Our albergue tonight is very old school. All the old locals are here….and they all smoke. We really can’t believe how many people smoke in Spain…and they smoke everywhere!
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    • Dag 4

      Albergue De Jesus, Villar de Mazeriffe

      24. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Arrived at my destination on my first day and managed to find a bed without a booking. I was lucky! Walked with Ciska, a born South African who has been living in Australia for the last 16 years. She showed me the ropes, I am thankful! I attended my first pilgrim meal, food was delicious and a lot, pasta salad as a starter, fish with chip for main and an icecream for dessert with red wine. All for 12€. There was people from the USA, Germany, South Korea, France, Australia, Philippines and off course SA. I feel blessedLes mer

    • Dag 37

      Villares de Orbigo (16km / 495.5km)

      19. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

      Today was one of our best walks. Everything just seemed to be right. A lovely cold, crisp morning. The sun rises directly behind us so the lighting in the early morning is stunning. The beginning of the walk was dead straight - not even a hint of a curve for 6.5km!
      While we have walked through beautiful farmlands, today was really the first time we saw “farming” activity. There were actually people in the fields, tractors ploughing, spraying, planting. The irrigation systems were also full with strong running water.
      The towns were different to the others - there were strong signs of life, people living and working in the area. The farms also seemed different. Smaller and not so “perfect”. It seemed like there might be privately owned and operated whereas the others looked more business like. The towns also had thriving agricultural service businesses. There was just no doubting this was an agricultural centre.
      We walked past a large cheese factory, fertiliser sellers and countless equipment suppliers and mechanics.
      It was all so uplifting after seeing towns that had basically died due to mechanisation.
      We’ve shown pictures of the irrigation before but today it all came to life so we show more. In fact, todays pictures are mostly farming and irrigation!
      The non farming highlight was “Puente de Orbigo” (The bridge over the river Orbigo). It is a bridge and a long raised road into Hospital de Orbigo which was a lovely town and we were really tempted to stop here but had a reservation in the next village, Villares de Orbigo. We seem to be the only pilgrims in town as there is a major “horse” event in town tomorrow - a gymkhana we think. So, a very quiet evening!
      Les mer

    • Dag 36

      Villar de Mazarife (11km / 479.5km)

      18. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Today was one of our more uninteresting days. We managed a lovely breakfast in Leon before leaving and then were on our way. The start of todays walk was 7km through industrial Leon. We decided to bus it to preserve my blistered feet. I would have been horrified if you had told me before we left that I would do that, but I am pleased to say I am very happy to have done so. The bus route was pretty much along the pilgrim path. We got off the bus and visited the Basilica of La Virgin del Camino, a rather modern looking church, but it was great to start our walk with a prayer. The landscape and vegetation have definitely changed - much drier and more scrub like. We elected to do the scenic route rather than the road route which is a little longer. The little towns we passed through were very similar to a typical Karoo dorpie (small town for the non South Africans).. The village we are staying at tonight is called Villar de Mazarife. It is quite quaint but very quiet. Someone takes good care of the gardens as they are beautiful and well cared for. We are staying at Albergue San Antonio de Padua, so we feel we are in good hands.
      We had a very good quality meal including a Paella and crepes for dessert. Most went to bed after dinner but there were 2 Welsh couples travelling together who have done parts of the Camino (1 week at a time) for the last 10 years. They were well oiled and very entertaining. The other was a young German who gave a yodelling performance! Once again, the group meals provide a highlight!
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    • Dag 20

      Hospital de Orbigo

      19. august 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      The longer option wasn’t as nice as I thought- several tines I walked just straight and alone for 2-3 h with no house at all! Puhh- just saw a group of 4 Germans who gave up 2 villages earlier, as it was so hot today! But after 36 Km and 7.5 h I arrived in Hospital de Orbigo, which is really nice! A lot of nice Albergues- I chose one where Pilgrims can paint for free! The amazing results are attached!Les mer

    • Dag 21

      Home made dinner

      12. august 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      The 3 of us went shopping at the only grocery store in town, and came back with ingredients for dinner and breakfast.
      JinJu helped me with vegetable chopping and I made a risotto. Jan made a fruit salad.
      It all turned up very good and very economical. Then JinJu gave me a compliment that made my day: said it was the best meal she has had in Spain!
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    Villar de Mazarife, 24392

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