Spain
Viloria de Rioja

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    • Day 14

      Day 14: Belorado

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

      Today we’re feeling the grind of back-to-back hiking days. A foot injury prompted Allan to send his backpack ahead with mine this morning, but it was still painful for him to walk 23 1/2 kilometers to our albergue in Belorado.

      Much of today’s route paralleled a busy highway, so traffic noise was a frequent companion, too.

      On the plus side, today’s routes took us through several small villages where we stopped for coffees and sparkling waters. We also left Rioja and entered León y Castilla—and haven’t seen a vineyard since.

      Walking in to Belorado, we were charmed by several large murals.

      After waiting in line for a bit to check in at Albergue Cuatro Cantones, we showered, dropped off our basket of dirty laundry to be washed and dried, and strolled up the street for a light bite to eat at a local bar. We’ll have a communal dinner at the albergue at 7:30 tonight.

      Tomorrow, we’ll walk 27 1/2 kilometers to Agés, with much of that being uphill. We expect to have many rest stops along the Way!
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    • Day 13

      Azofra to Viloria

      October 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Started early again and was rewarded with the first fine sunrise.
      Viloria is a hamlet past Grañón and I picked it for a non crowded night. There is NOTHING to do here, not even a church. Relaxing for the afternoon. Hope you like the pictures.
      I've added some shots of an Albergue I stayed at in 2018. A mat is all you get, but the atmosphere is great. You basically sleep in a church attic.
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    • Day 24

      Temps rature la chaleur

      May 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Froid accompagné de vent pour un chemin plus monotone qui longe l'autoroute et les terres agricoles qui fait a cette époque que les plantations sont au stade début donc difficile d' en connaitre quel est le produit qui sera récolté à
      l 'automne.

      La partie de l'Espagne que nous traversons depuis les trois derniers jours semble avoir été affectée par l'économie, les maisons sont moins bien entretenues, l'entretien de la ville sur la retenue, le chemin de compostelle pourrait devenir un moteur de croissance si des investissements orientés vers la restauration et l'hébergement de meilleure qualités et mettre l'emphase sur les monuments et les églises bâties depuis plusieurs siecles.

      La diminution des vignobles et l'augmentation des terres agricoles y sont aussi peut être pour des sources de revenus moindre.

      L'opinion d'un profane guidée par ses propres impressions, le sourire et la gentillesse des gens que l'on rencontre est peut être que pour eux l'eau qui vaut de l'or,
      Qui sommes
      nous pour conseiller, puisque le sourire
      qu'on te fait lorsqu'ils nous souhaitent buen camino n'est pas basé sur le commerce et pour eux n'a pas de prix !.
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    • Day 15

      Cirueña to Viloria de Rioja 21km 6.5 hrs

      September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Day 11 on the Camino. The last couple of days we have walked through small villages that are almost deserted, ghost town like. I think it is the Camino that keeps them alive. When we walked through the larger village of Santo Domingo this morning, 3 men walked through the streets playing instruments to announce the beginning of a festival. It seems there is always a party going on here. We walked a bit with Orin from Ireland.
      Dinner tonight at our albergue will paella. Yum

      Just a side note….This morning we left a little later than normal so we were the last pilgrims out of the albergue. Our friend Cécile discovered that someone had taken her shoes. Can you believe they were the same shoe, same size just the sole was worn differently. The day was spent trying to find the people who were in our albergue last night. We think we have found them in a town 7km down the road …. Stay tuned.

      UPDATE: Cécile took a taxi and found her shoes from a reluctant pilgrim who accidentally took the wrong shoes. Quite a story! Well done Sleuth Cécile!!
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    • Day 14

      Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Tosantos

      April 5 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      I'd heard lots about the Catalan independence struggle, but nothing of Castilla y Leon, the "largest autonomous region in Spain with an area of 95,000 km² (11 times the region of Madrid) but a population of only 2.5 million (less than half that of Madrid)." Today took us into this region, where it sounds like we'll be for some time.

      Most of the day was spent adjacent to a highway undergoing significant roadworks, so not the prettiest stretch but still enjoyable, and the warmest so far - I think it got up to 27 degrees, with a beautiful breeze coming into Beldorado.

      The trouble with walking east to west is the sun starts behind you and sticks on your left the whole walking day. I'm going to look like I've been grasped firmly by my right hip and dip-dyed in fake tan by the end of this. I forgot how easy it is to tan here, and that UV can even be 0.

      I met and walked for about 5km with Matt, some sort of investment person from Sydney, to the extent that I comprehend the notion of 'raising capital' and $100m deals. Apparently we started from SJPP on the same day, but haven't seen each other as he spent one night in an albergue and was so disrupted by a snorer he's been in hotels since.

      We found ourselves in agreement on three things in particular.

      1. The Americans are incredibly annoying and lack any self awareness whatsoever.

      2. The landscapes of the last few days in the Rioja have been incredible, and appreciated slightly more than Navarro because of their difference to home.

      3. We dunno what to do about the Metesa - the sparsely populated, flat, arid, (sotto voce) boring, eight day/150km stretch between Burgos and Leon. We might have worked out an approach, more on it later, and he gave me his number and told me to let him know.

      Today's stage technically ends 22.4km from Santo Domingo, in Beldorado. I decided to push on a further 4.8km to Tosanto (pop. 60) so I could do the same overshoot the following day, leaving less to walk on the day I get to Burgos and therefore more time to explore it.

      It's my first time staying off stage, and my first time in a 'donativo' an experience which will get its own post.
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    • Day 13

      Day 12, Santo Domingo to Belorado

      June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      This morning began chilly and misty. When we set out at 7am there was still a little rain in the air and I wore my poncho for the first 5km. Fiona walked ahead with Rachel, our English friend who sets a cracking pace and I dawdled with Janice from Winnipeg who told me how her 85 year old mother walks 3 miles every morning and cycles 6 every evening. Before she goes to bed she phones her best friend, a 100 year old in the same apartment block, so they can check up on each other.
      We stopped at a disappointing refreshment van about 6 km in but Fiona’s craving for caffeine wasn’t satisfied by the coffee we drank there. Today there were precious few opportunities for food and drink so we were grateful for a most unscenic bar by the side of a busy road where we eventually found breakfast. Today we entered Castile, leaving Rioja behind us. Despite walking alongside roads for some of morning, this was another day of spectacular views, intersected by tiny medieval villages which looked as though they had seen better days. And, as always, there were wonderful churches in the midst of lifeless streets.
      Near the end of our walk we stopped in a shady picnic area to eat some cherries and drink some water. However, we were so bullied by a local cat who was determined to eat whatever food we had that we we had to eat our cherries standing up!
      Our destination this afternoon is Beldorado and today is a local festival with lots of life in the main plaza. We found a quiet if quirky garden for our celebratory beer/wine to mark the end of the day’s walk. From there we could see a stork’s nest on the roof of the church - this seems to be a very common sight in these parts.
      We’re staying in a hostel which boasts a small pool in a greenhouse! Contemplating a dip as I write.
      The task I’m dreading but hoping will help with blister pain is the threading of small piece of thread through the two blisters on my heel which I have been advised should ease the pain. Am both hopeful and slightly alarmed by the prospect of this procedure but tomorrow is our longest walk to date and I would love to do it without flinching.
      Since writing this have carried out the threading procedure - so far no discernible improvement.
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    • Day 22

      To Viloria de Rioja

      May 2, 2023 in Spain

      Walked with our new friend Dirk from 70 km outside Cologne. Separated from the mother of his children, quitting his job and not much use to his 15 year old daughter or 19 year old son, he's looking for a new direction. Kind hearted soul, warm and open. Easy but hot walk with several coffee stops to get here. Lunch stop in ugly truck stop just outside Castildelgado. Lost Sal for little while in Castildelgado while we tried to find the cafe. Scary. We won't separate out to reconnoiter again. We could have gone on as we felt fine (Dirk did), but the auberge is lovely and homely with a rumpty floor and uneven steps up to the rooms. And it's so quiet - delightfully so. And our feet are thanking us. Met Lise the Colombian- just divorced and just lost her job. Only 33 so too young for Dirk!Read more

    • Day 13

      Day 12 - Viloria de Rioja -> Espinosa

      May 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      This morning Eva was not feeling well. In fact she had begun to feel bad the day before, when Orietta gave her some medicine. Because of this, we were in no hurry to leave. In fact we were the last to get up and leave.
      The original idea for the day was to walk a longer distance, but considering that she was not feeling so well, we sent a message to Mark and Sonja asking if they could try to find a place for us in the same albergue that they had already reserved. As they found us a place, we walked only 17 km to Espinosa del Camino.
      Even with the short distance, we did not arrive until about 4pm. It was very nice to have Mark and Sonja waiting for us there. Sonja had already talked to the owner and arranged all the details for us.
      After a shower and a some rest, we spent the time before dinner with Mark and Sonja. Mark and I enjoying some wine.
      At 7pm, we joined the other pilgrims for dinner, with more wine, good food and company. At one point during dinner, I heard a man speaking in English, and I could tell by his accent that he was Brazilian and also the specific region of Brazil he was from. In this case, Minas Gerais. It was funny.
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    • Day 12

      Viloria de Rioja

      May 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      An old house over 200 years old, run by a warm couple, made up of an Italian woman and a Brazilian man. This is the refuge of Acacio & Orietta. A place to stay and rest, after a day of walk. But it is also a place where you can live and share the pilgrim spirit.
      Eva and I arrived at the Acacio & Orietta Refuge around 2 pm. The place was simple but warm. With many details that make you feel comfortable.
      After checking in and taking a nice shower, we took the opportunity to enjoy the place. There was a cozy living room with comfortable couches.
      But the best moment it was the dinner, when we shared the table with all the other pilgrims and, of course, with our hosts, Acacio and Orietta. It was a wonderful time, to get to know the other pilgrims, to share our experiences so far, to talk about plans and expectations, and also to discuss what the true spirit of the pilgrimage is. It was a very special time for me.
      And at the end of this beautiful day, an amazing double rainbow, as we can see in the photos.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Viloria de Rioja, 09259

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