Tui Snider
Inquisitive world traveler who writes books, gives talks & leads tours through historic cemeteries. My homebase is Texas, where I share a goth/tiki castle with my mad scientist husband & tabby cat. For my newsletter & more visit: TuiSnider.com Read more🇺🇸United States
  • Forgetful Friend Returns

    February 27, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean

    Our missing friend returned during our final day in Cape Town, but he did not want to talk about the situation, claiming that the entire thing was, “entirely intentional.”

    Nor did he want to hear about all the angst and trouble he caused the ship along with the start and his friends here. Some part of him must be aware of all these things, but he is too embarrassed to admit it.

    As Larry put it, “If I thought Michael did this intentionally I’d be mad at him, but he really couldn’t help it.”

    Instead, all Michael wanted to do was bluster on about how “lovely” his stay was in, “Oh, where was it? Port something, I think?”

    Nor could he remember how he found a hotel or restaurants during his stay, even admitting that, “I don’t actually recall how I found a hotel, but it was gorgeous, like a palace.”

    Nor could he tell us how he booked his flight to Cape Town, “But I sat beside a woman who works for the ship. She’s absolutely beautiful. I think her name starts with a C.”

    We finally wheedled a few important details from Michael. Somewhere along the line, his son contacted him. “He gave me a sheet of instructions to follow so I could get a cab and catch my plane.”

    All I can say is that after all the horror stories we heard from passengers who were robbed in South Africa, Michael must have one hell of a guardian angel!
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  • Dinner & Shows

    February 26, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    One thing Larry and I love about cruises, is that every night is like a date night, with dinner and a live show.

    Food has been good on every cruise line we’ve tried, but Costa outshines the rest. They often feature homemade pasta and cheeses, such as mozzarella.

    That said, the way Larry’s arancione was plated last night kinda made us laugh because it looked as if it had been dropped with a splat!

    As we make our way around the world, the ship takes on local foods, as well. We’ve been enjoying a lot of exotic (to us) tropical fruits along the way.

    After our visit to South Africa, the ship added local wines to its larder. Last night, they served us a tasty pinatage, which was a hearty red.

    Last night’s dance troupe featured some amazing break dancing. I actually had time to open my purse and fumble with my camera while this guy was on his hands.

    On this cruise, every dinner is also a Romanian lesson for me. I’m able to make basic small talk now. Constantin and Maria are such a sweet couple, and our dinners are filled with laughter.

    Shipboard sunsets are another treat we enjoy while cruising. Even though it was cloudy last night, Venus and Jupiter still managed to greet us last night as a fuzzy orange sun simmered on the horizon.
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  • Shark Spotters

    February 25, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    I almost didn’t see this Shark Spotter shack because the sign warning about baboon attacks caught my eye first!

    Between rogue baboons and the traffic, we were not allowed off the bus here.

    The beach below here is too big for them to implement shark nets. For this reason, shark spotters watch the waters from above in order to keep swimmers and surfers safe.

    Even so, our guide told us that, “A fair number of shark attacks still occur every year, people getting their arms bitten off, or worse. I would never swim here.”
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  • African Penguins

    February 25, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    In 1982, a pair of African penguins decided to nest near Simon’s Town, South Africa. Since then, the colony has grown to 3000 birds!

    Boulders Colony certainly lives up to the name. Penguins were sprinkled all over the beach which is covered with granite boulders.

    Humans are allowed to observe the penguins from a boardwalk. We had so much fun watching them. Some were sitting on chicks, while others were turning eggs.

    One pair was busy building a nest; as one bird dug a hole, its partner would bring over sticks and even seaweed.

    I’m so glad that the conservation efforts here are succeeding!
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  • Seals & Dolphins

    February 25, 2023 in South Africa

    We took a boat to Duiker Island to see the Cape Fur Seals. The “island” is really just some granite boulders where adult males wait until they reach breeding age, which is around 8 to 12 years old.

    The seas are too rough for the seals to use the area as a breeding colony. When we visited, waves were knocking them around and seals were diving right into the waves. It looked like rowdy seal fun to me!

    On our way back, a huge school of dolphins surrounded our boat. I’ve never seen so many at once; we guessed that there were around 200 of them.

    In fact, there were so many dolphins that from a distance it looked like white caps creating a rough patch of sea.

    Back at the docks, I finally got a nice photo of a cormorant. Soon after, as we rounded a corner along the waterfront, I was startled by the sight of a large seal in the middle of a crowd.

    Some locals had lured him ashore by feeding him fish. I don’t think this is safe or legal, but that didn’t stop several people from posing for photos with the beautiful animal.
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  • Scenic Drive in South Africa

    February 24, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    We enjoyed a scenic drive up to Chapman’s Peak near Cape Town.

    Along the way, we saw a series of mountain peaks known as “the 12 Apostles.”

    At the overlook, I bought some hanging wooden birds from a friendly woman. She lives in Cape Town, but is originally from Zambia.Read more

  • Blackouts & Barbed Wire

    February 24, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Why is South Africa so crime ridden? For starters, the unemployment rate varies from 25 to 44% throughout the country. Many people are desperate.

    Everywhere we go, houses and apartment complexes are ringed with electric fences, barbed wire, and security plaques warning of an “armed response.”

    Although SA sells electricity to seven other African nations, they don’t have enough electricity to meet their own needs, and despite the abundance of sun and wind, they remain dependent on coal and Russian oil rather than gain energy independence by embracing solar and wind power on a large scale.

    As one guide put it, “South African people do not have the government that we deserve. They tell us it is too expensive to shift to green energy, but really it’s because certain politicians line their pockets at the expense of citizens. It is a very corrupt system.”

    SA’s energy situation translates as rolling blackouts for its citizens. Today, for instance, our guide informed us that electricity would be cut from noon until 2pm, 6pm until 10pm, and again from midnight until 6am.

    The electricity outages vary from neighborhood to neighborhood and from day to day. The exact schedule can be found on an app.

    Shopkeepers find this frustrating, of course, especially the ones who can’t afford generators or solar panels. They lose a lot of business, obviously, and,”When the power is off, it makes them ripe for criminals.”

    A hairdresser told our friend that she hates living here now because of how bad the crime has gotten. Even some of our tour guides quietly told us that while they love their country, they would move away if they could.

    Even though America is far from perfect, it certainly makes me aware of how lucky I am to live in the USA. Travel is a good eye opener.
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  • Cape Town

    February 24, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Of the three ports we visited during our time in South Africa, we like Cape Town the best.

    For one thing, the city is much cleaner than Durban and Port Elizabeth, nor did we hear of any passengers being scammed or mugged.

    It feels safer here, although you can still see a BIG difference between the haves and the have nots.

    A marimba band greeted our ship this morning. They were even letting people try out the instruments. I was whisked off to a tour bus before I could play with them, alas.

    The legacy of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu can be seen throughout Cape Town, but I was surprised to learn that the world’s first heart transplant took place here in 1967.

    Although South Africa has 11 different languages, signs around town are in three languages: English, Afrikaans, and Zulu.

    Each day at noon in Cape Town, a canon is fired. This tradition started in the 1800s when ships in port would look for the smoke from the canon in order to set their clocks. Sailors needed accurate time in order to navigate.
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  • Table Mountain

    February 24, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Everywhere you go in Cape Town, Table Mountain looms in the distance.

    Some mornings, a cloud layer forms over the flat looking crest of Table Mountain. According to one legend, this is due to the devil and a mountain man having a pipe smoking contest.

    At dusk, Table Mountain makes her presence known with a sharp silhouette standing guard over the city.

    Next time I’m here, I’d like to take the cable car up to the peak of Table Mountain. Some of our friends did so and said the view was incredible.
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  • Missing Friend!

    February 23, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    We got back to the ship shortly before it was time to leave. As we showered and changed clothes, we heard an announcement over the ship’s loudspeakers.

    Long story short: They were trying to find our friend, Michael!

    Michael is a gregarious Australian guy who sits with us at dinner. We met him several years ago on a different ship.

    This time around, however, it quickly became apparent to us that Michael’s cognition is on the decline.

    He asks the same questions several times each meal (Where will we be tomorrow? Is there a show tonight?) and hardly ever takes the diabetes medicine that he needs.

    Larry’s dad had dementia and lived with us for three years, so we’ve had experience.

    Larry changes the time on Michael’s phone and watch whenever we enter new time zones, and helps him order food at dinner. I gave him an asthma inhaler when he needed one.

    We’ve been trying to keep an eye on Michael, but at this stage he really needs a travel companion. We can only do so much.

    I gave Michael’s phone numbers to the English liasson and the security team. Stephanie was able to message him on WhatsApp, and could see that the messages were reaching his phone, but not being read.

    As we worried about our friend, we heard more stories of people being mugged here in South Africa.

    We did not sleep well last night!

    This morning, however, we were informed that Michael has been found and will return to the ship in Cape Town.

    Beyond that, we don’t know what caused him to miss the ship or how he passed his time last night.

    It’s a relief, but many questions remain!

    p.s. As for the photo, it’s from tonight’s show which was the ship’s version of “Priscilla: Queen of the Desert.”
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  • “Wrongway” Crescent Moon

    February 22, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    The sky was beautiful tonight! Venus, the moon, and Jupiter were all lined up and so bright that I was able to take photos of them.
    Since the ship was moving, it made it a bit of challenge.

    What really threw me for a loop was the crescent moon! In the northern hemisphere, where I’ve spent most of my days, a waxing moon is larger on the right.

    Not so in the southern hemisphere. The moon you see here is a waxing crescent, but the sliver we can see is on the left side!

    I thought this was so cool that I blew kisses to the moon.
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  • Impala for Lunch

    February 22, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    After a nearly four hour game drive, we enjoyed a splendid lunch back at Sibuya Game Reserve.

    Barbecued impala was featured on the menu along with a lovely pumpkin and garbanzo bean salad and fresh baked bread.

    The chef was excited when he heard Larry and I are from Texas. “Aha!” he exclaimed. “The land of barbecue! Let me know what you think.”

    I told him it was the best impala I’d ever had, while Larry made some joke about how he’d once had an Impala, but then he got a Belair. (Luckily, the man got it. It took me a minute!)

    The whole meal was a treat. We washed it all down with a glass of Sibuya’s own red wine and some rooibos tea. (I drink rooibos all the time at home, but it only grows in South Africa, so I was excited to have some here.)
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  • Lions will be lions!

    February 22, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    They keep the lions in a separate part of the game reserve at Sibuya. Not only does it have an electric fence, but it has an electrified area on the ground.

    As we entered the lion section, Nick told us to speak quietly and move slowly. Quick movements might attract unwanted attention.

    “They’re cats, after all,” Nick warned. “And cats can be tempted to chase things that move quickly.”

    Just like house cats, lions sleep most of the day. They are hard to see in the tall grass, so none of us could really get a good photo.

    “Want to hear a scary story?” Nick asked.

    Of course we said ‘yes,’ so he told us about some poachers who came to a sorry end. They were after the game reserve’s rhinos, but ended up in the lion section by mistake.

    It was night, so the lions were in hunting mode. This time, however, instead of going after wildebeest or impala, they made a meal out of the trio of poachers.

    The next day when one of Nick’s coworkers drove up, he found the lions playing with human heads.

    Beyond that, all that was left of the poachers were their guns, and their shoes!
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  • The Big 5

    February 22, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Our excursion to Sibuya Game Reserve got off to a dubious start. Not only did our bus smell so strongly of urine that it made my eyes water, but instead of a guide, we were mistakenly given a Spanish translator and she was not happy about this mistake.

    So rather than hear info about South Africa, we spent an hour and a half listening to her loudly complain about this error on her cell phone.

    At least it gave me a chance to practice my Spanish comprehension. I now know all about her and her two kids. (They’re doing fine, in case you wondered.)

    It was a pretty drive, although I was surprised how deserted the roads were. We only saw, maybe, six other vehicles during our hour and a half drive.

    Much to my surprise, the terrain reminded me a lot of Texas as we passed through rolling hills, windmills, and ranchers in cowboy hats driving herds of cattle.

    Once we reached Sibuya Game Reserve, everything improved greatly. Our “photo safari” driver, Nick, was friendly and knowledgeable about all aspects of local flora and fauna.

    He didn’t just point out mammals, but also birds, bird calls, insects, reptiles, and wildflowers along the way. I had fun checking off as many species as I could on the handy list they gave us.

    We also managed to see four of the “Big 5” on our game drive: Elephants, Cape Buffalo, Rhinos, and Lions.

    I was amazed at the terrain those land rovers could handle. At times the roads were so steep and bumpy that I was surprised we didn’t tip over!

    I write more about our game drive in some other posts, but just so you know, we took a different bus on the drive back to the ship!
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  • An Elegant Snack

    February 22, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Partway through our game drive, Nick stopped at a pretty overlook where we enjoyed a snack of dried mango, nuts, and some chilled white wine. I don’t usually drink white wine, but this was very refreshing.Read more

  • Chaise Lounge Mystery

    February 22, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    What’s so great about chaise lounges? Can someone please explain?

    I find them uncomfortable, yet judging by the myriad folks I see lounging in them every day, I’m in the minority.

    Sure, I enjoy kicking back with a book, but the angle that chaise lounges are tipped is really uncomfortable.

    Maybe it’s because, for whatever reason, I don’t enjoy slouching. As a teen, I was teased for sitting up straight, and I even attempted to cultivate a slouch. It didn’t last.

    Also, as you can probably guess by the shade of my skin, I’m not someone who enjoys laying in the sun to cultivate a tan. Chaise lounges seem perfect for that.

    So tell me. Am I missing the joys of a chaise lounge? Or what???
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  • Rough Seas & Broken Bones

    February 19, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    Seas were rough on the way from Durban to Elizabethtown (or Gqerbah, as it seems to be called on the maps!)

    Simply walking around the ship was a challenge as it pitched and rolled, but Larry and I didn’t mind, nor do we get seasick as some folks do.

    For some reason, our dock wasn’t ready when we arrived in Elizabethtown, so they sent us to a different dock.

    Three ambulances met the ship to cart off four injured people. One was a member of the kitchen staff who broke his arm during the rocky transit.

    Two more passengers were injured by the rocky ship, but the fourth had a medical emergency of some other kind.

    Unfortunately, our photo safari was cancelled because the tour buses were at the dock where we were originally supposed to be.

    We opted to stay on the ship today. We’ve heard so many tales of crimes from other passengers in South Africa, that it’s less than inviting to go for a stroll. We might get more of an adventure than we bargained for!

    Instead, we had a relaxing day on the ship, swimming and playing Scrabble. While we play Scrabble, I edit photos and write blog posts.

    The shore excursion folks have shifted us to a different game reserve for tomorrow. I’ll let you know how it goes.

    p.s. The photo here is a Chantilly swan dessert from last night’s dinner. Yum!
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  • A Literal Tidal Pool

    February 19, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    When I hear the phrase “tidal pool,” I think of a natural formation at low tide. Here in South Africa, it means a literal swimming pool created at the seaside.

    In addition to shark nets, this walled off section of ocean creates a safer environment for swimmers by lessening the chance of them being pulled to sea by the powerful riptides here.

    Despite these dangers, our guide tells us that an international surfing competition takes place here every year.

    I love the sea, and found a peaceful looking spot to wade. As I walked down the steps, however, a big wave came and drenched me!

    Even though I got utterly soaked, it was so hot out that it was actually quite refreshing and I was nearly dry by the time we returned to the ship.
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  • Crime in Durban

    February 19, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Of all the places we have visited in our many travels, Durban has the dubious distinction of being the place where the most people we know were mugged!

    A trio of friends went for a stroll around 10 a.m. They didn’t get far before a couple of men ran up and attempted to steal one guy’s fanny pack.

    As he struggled with his assailants, some locals came up and helped chase the attackers off.

    None of the victims were walking alone, at night, or in areas that seemed “dodgy.” One attack occurred within sight of the ship, very close to the dock.

    No one was hurt, at least, although one criminal put his hands around a woman’s neck as if to choke her. Scary!

    Meanwhile at the beach, a woman had her cellphone snatched from her hands and she relaxed in the sun.

    These are just a few of the muggings we heard about. All of them were in broad daylight!

    We took the ship’s tour today, and they only let us off the bus once. Along the way, we passed sign after sign for “armed response” security companies.

    Barbed wire and electric fences were on the perimeter of every apartment and house. Many had guards sitting at the entrance.

    As we drove through the downtown, our guide said, “This is a bad part of town. Don’t go walking here.”

    After all the stories I heard today, I certainly believe her!
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  • Mauritius

    February 15, 2023 in Mauritius ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    We leisurely taxi tour in Mauritius. The town was pretty dingy, but we enjoyed the local market.

    Larry bartered long and hard with the man you see in the photo. They were having a good time, though, and other shopkeepers were chuckling over the intense negotiation, as well.

    I got a kick out of the “hipster Shiva” t shirt. There’s quite a mix of cultures here, since after slavery was abolished in the 1800s, many folks came from India to work the sugar cane fields. (Of course, even though they were not technically slaves, the conditions weren’t exactly great, either.)

    The market smelled of curry and fresh fruit. Dodo birds were a common design motif here, since this is where they once thrived.

    In fact, as part of Larry’s wheeling and dealing, the shopkeeper gave us some Mauritian currency featuring a dodo bird.

    After the market, our cabbie took us to a beach that locals enjoy. We had it all to ourselves because it was a weekday.
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  • Rainy Day on Reunion Island

    February 14, 2023 in Réunion ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    We had a mellow day on Reunion Island. The rain made it too foggy to justify a taxi tour, so we took a shuttle into Port Louis and wandered around, instead.

    We’d heard that due to the French influence here that the bakeries were quite good, but hardly any were open today.

    There was a place called “O’Tacos” that claimed to be home of “the original French taco.”

    Say what?

    At that point, however, I was holding out for a chocolate croissant, but as mentioned before, most places were closed.

    During our stroll we passed a colorful Hindu temple, but it was also closed today.

    I did buy a pair of beach sandals to replace the ones that fell apart on the Seychelles, as well as a colorful dress that was locally made.

    As I said, it was a very mellow day!
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  • Toamasina Dancers

    February 13, 2023 in Madagascar

    The people of Toamasina have interacted with sailers for centuries and it was easy to see and hear the European influence in their local culture.

    Once again, our ship was met with lively dancers. We also saw dancers during our fruit buffet, and while walking through the local village.

    It was a hot and humid day full of bright colors and new to me cultures.
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  • Toamasina Market

    February 13, 2023 in Madagascar

    Armed soldiers stood at many intersections in Toamasina, a sight that always makes me uneasy.

    The local market was big and bustling. I noticed men with t shirts labeling them as security patrolling the perimeter outside.

    When a young girl approached us with a basket of green oranges, one of the guards chased her off, while brandishing his billy club. I hadn’t planned to buy any, but I felt sorry for her nonetheless.
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  • Pangalanes Canal

    February 13, 2023 in Madagascar

    Today we docked in Madagascar’s main seaport, Toamasina, and explored the area nearby.

    “Toamasina” means “it’s salty” and there’s a funny story behind the name. Many years ago, a man who had grown up in the highlands of Madagascar visited.

    He was thirsty after his long voyage, so he took a big swig of seawater only to exclaim, “It’s salty!” Somehow the name stuck.

    Our guide for the day was a fellow named Lachaka, which means “destiny” in Malagasy.
    The first part of our tour in Toamasina was a tour down the Pangalanes Canal.

    While a man steered the boat from the stern, a third guy stood on the bow keeping an eye out for any debris that might get tangled in our outboard engine along the way. (Even so, the boat broke down a couple of times during our trip.)

    Lachaka explained that the section of the canal we were on was man made during the colonial period and that, “Many, many workers died while digging here. Conditions were very bad, like slavery.” (This is a familiar refrain for canals of the world, alas.)

    These days, locals rely on the canal for fishing and trade. For many, this waterway is their main avenue for travel.

    Lachaka taught us how to say “hello” in Malagasy. People were quick to wave and return our greetings as we floated by.

    By the way, even though people do laundry in the canal, the women holding the sheet in these photos are using it to fish.

    Other things that piqued my interest included boats with sails made from rice bags, as well as the voluptuous carving on the prow of a ship.

    And while we’d been warned to keep an eye out for crocs, I did not expect to see a pink one today!
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