Tunisia
Roman Amphitheatre El Djem

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    • Day 6

      Amphithéâtre de El Jem

      September 3, 2019 in Tunisia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      Après manger (hôtel Le Kasbah à Kairouan), on reprend la route pour El Jem, pour visiter le colisée en très bon état.
      C’est une réplique de celui de Rome, 3ème plus grand du monde (les 2 autres sont en Italie) - capacité de 35.000 places à son apogée. Comme la plupart de la conquête romaine, l’histoire n’est pas glorieuse: environ 10.000 berbères sont morts dans ce colisée la première semaine de son ouverture, dur d’être un gladiateur sans expérience face à des lions et tigres affamés...
      Les vestiges sont impressionnants néanmoins. Enzo aime bien monter tout en haut pour admirer la vue. Il a repéré des chameaux qui se reposent en bas! On va leur dire bonjour avant de reprendre la route du retour.
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    • Day 7

      Eljem

      July 22 in Tunisia ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

      Erstes Ziel heute das Amphitheater in Eljem.
      Mit einem Fassungsvermögen von 35.000 Zuschauern ist es das nach dem Koloseum von Rom  und dem römischen Amphitheater von Capua drittgrößte Amphitheater des Römischen Reiches. 
      Es wurde 238 unter Proconsul Gordianus gebaut, jedoch nicht von den Römern, sondern von den reichen Einwohnern von El Djem. 
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    • Day 3

      Day 72: El Jem Roman Amphitheater

      March 22 in Tunisia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

      Determined to visit the Sahara Desert on Gap Year (yaaas Dune), our research told us Tunisia had the best travel logistics and cost for visiting. Driving in South America and Africa is a different experience as lanes, shoulders, side walks, stoplights, and waiting your turn does not matter. However, we took a chance and picked up our manual rental car and navigated out of the city. Kieran took first shift and did fine with the motor bikes, drivers, and toll booths.

      While most men think about the Roman Empire, they can’t imagine the full reach they had in Europe to West Asia and North Africa. We drove to the city of El Jem and visited one of the largest and most preserved Roman Amphitheaters. The atmosphere was perfect as a mosque nearby rang out afternoon prayers. We grabbed a kebab and continued our trek into the desert country side.

      We stopped in Gabes for another Iftar with lamb and squid couscous. The owners were extremely kind and welcoming even though we didn’t have a reservation. We drove on to Matmata for our hotel, which is nestled in the desert mountainside. Stay tuned for our next post which will invoke memories of nerds everywhere.

      Hotel: Maison d'hôtes Dar Driss
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    • Day 2

      Monastir und el Jem

      January 29, 2023 in Tunisia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Am nächsten Morgen ging es ins benachbarte Monastir, bekannt für sein beeindruckendes Rabat (Festung) und das Mausoleum des Staatsgründers Bourgiba.
      Danach fuhren wir nach El Jem, was quasi nur aus dem römischen Colosseum besteht, dem größten Afrikas und erstaunlich gut erhalten.
      Übernacht blieben wir dann in Kairouan.
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    • Day 66

      El Jem

      February 18 in Tunisia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Today started with an early morning to watch the UFC. It was a big card with two Aussies running the co-main event. Everything started off great when Rob Whittaker scraped by in a win vs. Paulo Costa, putting him back in contention for the title. But, to ruin my day before it started, Volkanovski got knocked out in the second round by Ilia Topuria. It is gutting. He has been the undisputed champion for years, and I didn't want to see his reign come to an end. After composing myself, I eventually dragged myself to the train station where I would board to El Jem, a significant reason for my visit to Tunisia. It was a long and uncomfortable train journey, and this ignores the fact that I managed to sneak into first class. When I disembarked the train, I was shocked at the sight of the enourmas amphitheatre instantly standing out along the city scape. I say the city scape, but it is something much more reminiscent of a tiny desert town as opposed to a city. It was amazing to witness, though. The quaint rural town was very eye-opening to walk through. Tiny markets and cafes line the whole main road that takes you straight to the entrance to the Tunisian colloseum. The town does not match the grandure elicited by the monument in its centre. Yet, despite the first impressions, this was once an emourmas bustling city of the Roman Empire. It even fostered an emperor. As you approach, the size only grows and grows until you look up the 30m tall ancient ruin. It's an emposing structure on an otherwise quite humble town. I did a full lap of the outside to take it all in before stopping for a coffee and eventually continuing inside. When inside you were blown away by the condition it had managed to find itself in, the outside facade still has the Corinthian columns. It had its original stairs (in some places), arches, and walkways, all despite being 2000 years old. Unrestricted access meant that you could walk through the old halls, wander the underground sections, and even climb the buildings' ancient walls. After I had done my rounds of all the different sections, I sat in the sun along the modern stairs and enjoyed some sun while taking in the view. After some time, I continued to the next site. It was a small town, but there was a museum that seemed worth exploring. This was much more informative than the amphitheatre and gave a much better backstory to the city. I explored the beautiful mosaics, saw the ancient statues, and then wandered through the streets of the former residents of the city. It was well worth the money. As I headed out, I stopped at the final site, the original amphitheatre that stood many centuries before the one previously visited. But, when I arrived I was bitterly disappointed. It was nothing more than rubble and a place for locals to dump their rubbish. As such, as I began to enter, a very rough stray dog began to bark, as though protecting his land, and I submitted and went to the train station. It may have been a blessing in disguise, however, as when I arrived, I learned that there was only one train going back today, and it left in about half an hour. I bought my ticket, grabbed a quick feed, and waited for the train. When it arrived. It was well and truly full already, but there were another 50 individuals looking to board. As such, I got stuck standing in the smoker's section of the train for well over an hour. My lungs hurt as much as my knees in the end. But eventually, I arrived and could finally get my legs moving a bit. As such, I explored the town of Sousse some more before heading back and enjoying the last bit of sun for the day while I read my book.Read more

    • Day 4

      El Jem and the chaotic public transport

      March 6, 2023 in Tunisia ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

      The original plan was to take the earliest train from Sousse to El Jem, to see the amphitheater there and take the afternoon train to Tozeur but everything went differently.

      We took the train at 8.50am from Sousse to El Jem and arrived there around 10 am. In El Jem there is literally nothing to do and see than the amphitheater. We took a ticket and visited the amphitheater very slowly. Our train was supposed to come at 1.30pm so after we still had plenty of time.

      While having a coffee I talked to a local and he told me that he doesn't know from any train which goes directly to Tozeur therefore we went around noon to doublecheck about the train.

      At the train we found out that our train is for 4 hours minimum delayed. We decided then to go to Sfax which got recommended by locals and try to take a louage from there to Tozeur.
      Easy said but not done.

      We went to the louage Station and the drivers told us that there are only louages to Sousse. We definitely didn't want to go back there as it is not even on the way to Tozeur. We waited with the hope that a driver might come from Sfax which didn't happen. They called the louage station in Sfax to find out if any driver left for El Jem but it seemed like nobody is on the way.

      We got recommended to check if there is a bus from the train station. So we went back and luckily the guy on the counter was really nice and he even walked us to the bus station, which we wouldn't have find without him as it doesn't look like a bus stop at all. It's just a small kiosque.

      Normally a bus was supposed to come around 1 pm but came 50 minutes late. That seemed to be normal as all the locals appeared after 1.30 at the stop.

      We arrived in Sfax around 3 pm and all the louage drivers were trying to get us into their cars. They didn't care about our plans. One of them convinced us to go with him to Gafsa and to take a bus from there to Tozeur, seemed to be logic as Gafsa was on our way. Around 7 pm we arrived in Gafsa, it took waaay longer than expected. We found out there that we have to wait till 9.30 pm for the bus. We just wanted to arrive but seemed to be impossible.

      While waiting there we met a young guy from France who went through the same chaotic ride as us. He was trying to take the same train from Tunis. He waited there for 2 hours and the train never showed up and no information was available so he decided to take a louage and they recommended him as us to get first to Gafsa and take from there the bus.
      Around 9.50 pm the bus came and we arrived in our accommodation in Tozeur around midnight. What a ride.
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    • Day 2

      El-Jem • Amfiteatr w Al-Dżam.

      May 12, 2023 in Tunisia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      To trzeci pod względem wielkości na świecie (po Koloseum i Kapui) rzymski amfiteatr. Liczącą 138 metrów długości i 114 metrów szerokości i wysoką na 30 metrów arenę w El Jem wybudowano w 238 roku. Sprawia wrażenie monumentalnego, ze względu na silny kontrast z podupadłą miejscowością i pudełkowatymi domkami Tunezyjczyków. Leżał na otwartej przestrzeni. Zachował się w bardzo dobrym stanie.Read more

    • Day 2

      El-Jem i królowa Al-Kahina

      May 12, 2023 in Tunisia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Pod koniec VII wieku tereny te zamieszkiwali Berberowie. Al Dżamm służył im jako ostatni bastion przed inwazją Arabów. To właśnie z murów amfiteatru obroną kierowała słynna królowa Berberów, Al-Kahina. Po utracie większości ziem królowa nakazała swym trzem synom poddać się i przyjąć islam, a sama ze swoim wojskiem wycofała się do amfiteatru w Al-Dżamm. Walki trwały długo, aż Arabowie zdobyli budowlę. Ponoć samej królowej udało się wydostać z tunezyjskiego koloseum podziemnymi korytarzami prowadzącymi do morza. Legenda głosi, że jeszcze sporo napsuła krwi Arabom, prowadząc z nimi wojnę partyzancką i dożywając 127 lat.Read more

    • Day 2

      El-Jem • Starożytna rozrywka dla mas

      May 12, 2023 in Tunisia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      W szczytowym okresie mieściło się w nim 30-35 tys. widzów na trybunach trzech pięter i jak to w czasach rzymskich główną atrakcją dla ludu były krwawe walki gladiatorów czy wypuszczanie chrześcijan na pożarcie lwów. Tunele i klatki do dzisiaj zachowały się w najniższych partiach budowli i robią kolosalne wrażenie.Read more

    • Day 17

      Ewige Baustelle

      August 22, 2022 in Tunisia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

      Eine Besonderheit in tunesischen Orten ist die Vorgehensweise die Häuser nur Stück für Stück zu bauen. Die erste Etage wird noch fertig gebaut, alle weiteren werden in Etappen, wenn wieder etwas Geld vorhanden ist weitergebaut. So sieht alles wie eine permanente Baustelle aus. Für unsere europäischen Augen kein schöner Anblick. Eilig hat es niemand, meine Tochter sagt seit 5 Jahren hat sich an manchen Häusern nichts verändert. Heute gab es zur Abwechslung mal Kamel.Read more

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    Roman Amphitheatre El Djem

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