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Anglesey

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    • Day 27

      Caernarfon Castle

      April 23, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

      Got another castle in! This one is larger than Conwy, but more touristy and is set up accordingly. Definitely worth going to, especially for all its neat history and expansiveness, but Cowny Castle is a more evocative ruin. Nice to be able to compare them, though. Each castle I've visited so far has had its own vibe, so that's been a lot of fun to be immersed in.Read more

    • Day 32

      Caernarfon

      September 6, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Caernarfon is a royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales. It has a population of 9,852 (with Caeathro). It lies along the A487 road, on the eastern shore of the Menai Strait, opposite the island of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is 8.6 miles (13.8 km) to the north-east, while Snowdonia (Eryri) fringes Caernarfon to the east and south-east.

      Caernarfon Castle is a medieval fortress in Gwynedd, north-west Wales. The first fortification on the site was a motte-and-bailey castle built in the late 11th century, which King Edward I of England began to replace with the current stone structure in 1283. The castle and town established by Edward acted as the administrative centre of north Wales, and as a result the defences were built on a grand scale.
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    • Day 20

      Always looking for an opportunity to improve on being ‘stingy at Stonehenge’, today definitely was our day.

      First of all was the excellent (free/ included) full breakfast at our 500 year old politically incorrectly named ‘Black Boy Inn’ accommodation.
      We then immediately headed off in the direction of Llanberis (20 mins) to catch our train to the top of Snowdonia - the highest point in Wales.

      The backpack was carefully loaded with provisions/ water / spare clothing / frozen lamb roast etc. as we knew this could be an epic climb of Himalaya proportions.
      The first job was to park and of course pay for that very privilege.
      There was a parking area right near the train station at £11 for the day, but by a quirk of GPS input error, we ended up at another parking area - fully 90 seconds further walking distance away - for just £6 for the day. Chalk up a win.

      Heading in to the ticket office, I got our two pre-paid tickets - and then a partial refund of the ticket prices! It turns out that the train can only go up to the 3/4 station of Clogwyn as there is still trackwork happening on the last section.
      “If you want to get to the summit, you will have to walk up the last section” I was told in a curious mix of Welsh and English. (Note: At this point I was congratulating myself on having almost mastered the Welsh language, as last night I downloaded and partially studied the free version of the ‘Welsh For Dummies’ App I had found online.)

      No problem, I thought - we are all set for a good summit-push today, having acclimatised accidentally over the last 2 days by somehow managing to book accomodation at ‘Black-Boy’ many floors above ground level with no lifts.

      The day was partially cloudy. From the train station, our summit target looked to be just above cloud base height up there in the jet-stream. Potentially challenging, but we were well prepared for what the mountain might throw at us.

      We began our ascent on the cheapest ride of the day (The early-bird 9am in the diesel powered train - later trains, or the steam powered train cost more. Yet another win.)
      We eventually arrived at the stratospheric heights of Clogwyn station where the air was noticeably thinner. Before we left for our summit attempt, I wanted to check with the train driver if we could come back on any train once we had descended back to Clogwyn.
      Our friendly train driver explained to me in Welsh that it would be fine for us to do exactly that - or so I thought.
      (My understanding of the free ‘Welsh for Dummies’ course led me to believe that when a Welshman shakes his head, he means ‘Yes’. Perhaps in hindsight I should have upgraded to the paid version of the App as it would seem that the ‘free’ version could have been misleading.)

      We loaded up the backpack, checked all our mountaineering equipment was in order and climbed up into the swirling mists that now enveloped us. Like a latter-day Mallory and Irvine, we made steady progress up the Western Cwm, then traversed across to the Hillary Step, the South Summit, picked our way along the last stretch of the summit ridge and then finally - we were on top. Was that Tibet we were now looking down into?

      In 1984 Greg Mortimer and Tim Macartney-Snape were the first Australians to summit Mt. Everest without supplemental oxygen - now Loss and I had summited Snowdonia in a similar fashion. Amazing. I have sent details of our climb to the Guinness Book of Records and am awaiting their confirmation of our epic feat.

      Now the task was to make it back down to the safety of Clogwyn station and our promised ride back down the mountain from my Welsh speaking train driver. On arriving there, we saw a sign (in English) that clearly said you could only go back down on the same train you had gone up on - and unfortunately ours had left long ago.

      I approached the train driver - not my Welsh speaking friend - standing beside his shiny STEAM engine - and in very plain English he told me if we wanted to ride down the mountain on HIS train, it would cost us another £22 each as we had missed our preassigned train.
      Clearly my crash course in Welsh was not as thorough as it should have been, but being determined to make this one of my stingiest days yet, we shouldered our loads and down-climbed the 8km foot track to Llanberis far below.

      Next it was off to a FREE museum just up the road - the National Slate Museum. Sounds fascinating, doesn’t it? Well, it was actually very interesting. Wales produces some of the world’s finest quality slate, with the best quality being turned into roofing shingles which currently sell for about £4.50 per shingle.

      Of particular interest was a demonstration on slate splitting and cutting. We got chatting to the craftsman after his demonstration and he told us an interesting story of how ‘Sydney saved his bacon’ when he used to work as a slate cutter in a commercial quarry.

      There had been a slump in demand for slate shingles in 1999. The bosses wanted them to keep producing, as they were on a very rich vein of high quality slate. The finished product was being stockpiled on a scale never seen before, and when after a few months of this the boss called all the workers in for a meeting, they thought they were going to lose their jobs.
      “Good news, lads” he said. “You’re not going to lose your jobs. We’ve just sold the entire stockpile last night. It seems that Sydney in Australia has just had a massive hailstorm and they need every last one of our slate roof shingles”.
      So, all those blue tarpaulins on roofs in the Eastern suburbs many of us remember gradually gave way to new, job-saving slate tiles from Wales.
      Every cloud has a silver lining.

      In addition to this, he gifted Loss the little coaster he had hand fashioned during the demonstration. This saved us buying one in the gift shop at a cost of £12 - how many wins can you have in one day?? At least one more, as it turns out.

      We decided that we would economise on dinner tonight and cook for ourselves in our kitchenette. We stopped at the grocery store on the way back to Caernarfon to purchase the ingredients, which came to the grand sum of £11. This was another significant saving, compared to last night where we had eaten at the restaurant across the road which advertised their ‘2 meals for £12’ special deal.

      Can a day of frugality get any better than that?
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    • Day 5

      2 Newborough Warren

      July 5, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Heute habe ich die Wanderstiefel gegen Barfußschuhe eingetauscht und habe im Nordwesten des Nationalparks eine beinschonende Wald- und Strandwanderung gemacht 😀
      Auf der Tour lag die kleine Insel Yinis y Bendigaid - die Insel der Liebenden mit viel Geschichten aus dem Mittelalter und noch weit davor.
      Da die Flut die Insel vom Festland abschneidet, muss man auf Ebbe warten, um hinüber laufen zu können.
      Die halbe Stunde Wartezeit habe ich damit verbracht, meinen heute sehr gelungenen Porridge zu vernaschen ... yammy 😀 und bin dann durch das knietiefe Wasser rüber.
      Am Schluss der Tour bin ich ein wenig vom Weg abgekommen, so dass sich auf der Weide die Frage stellte: die Kuh oder ich ... ich bin dann über den Zaun geklettert, um wegzukommen ... 🤪 gut, dass das nicht auf einem Foto festgehalten wurde 😉
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    • Day 137

      Earth night 2023

      September 15, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Nicht vergessen, heute Abend um 19.00 Uhr werden alle Aussenlicher für eine Nacht reduziert bzw, abgeschaltet.
      So setzen wir alle ein Zeichen gegen die zunehmende Lichtverschmutzung auf der Welt. Jeder kann mitmachen 💡Read more

    • Day 6

      Rhosneigr & Holyhead

      April 16 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 48 °F

      Heading to the port of Holyhead today, I got off the train in a little town on the west coast of Anglesey to explore the coastal route. Rhosneigr is a sleepy little beach town which is popular with surfers. I wandered along the coast for more than an hour and then took a bus to Holyhead. If you want to learn about local life in a UK town, get on board one of the local buses. As we meandered through the narrow roads my focus shifted from the lush green landscape and dotted with sheep to what was happening right on board. There were only five of us when the bus left Rhosneigr, but at each stop there was a new addition until we had a nearly full bus on arrival in Holyhead. The remarkable thing was how everyone seemed to know one another. Each new person was met with a big welcome and then joined in on the conversation that the whole bus was having as a group. They were all speaking Welsh, so I have no idea what they were actually saying, but I could tell it was directed at the moms who brought kids along or toddlers in strollers. There was a lot of oohing and ahhing from older ladies and proud smiles from the young moms. There were a couple of guys who would chime in once in a while causing everyone to crack up. This was obviously either a clever remark about the kids or else it was a wisecrack about me, but either way it created quite a party atmosphere. The bus driver did a really kind thing for me. When I boarded, I had told him the name of my hotel to ask about the nearest stop. I was preparing to walk a bit from the town center, but, when we were near the end of our route, he pulled up right in front of my hotel and just gave a yell for me to get off. “Here you are, mate! That’s your hotel. Now you don’t have to walk.” This is so unusual in the UK, not because the bus driver was friendly (they’ve been cheerful and pleasant just about everywhere), but the official bus stops are sacred. To stop somewhere in between seems to be a rare occurrence. After checking in, I went walking in town and I was stopped by one of the jokester guys from the bus who wanted to know if everything went ok with my hotel. I wasn’t expecting much. I knew I had booked a cheap place with a shared bathroom, but I was shocked by Holyhead. It may be the ugliest place in Wales. It’s a shame, really. The setting is amazing — similar to Bangor or Greenock — but something went wrong here. It’s about as charming as the Port of Bayonne (not the French one). The port itself is huge and there’s a large railroad yard. Obviously it’s a vital shipping port, but the town is poorly planned. From what I can see, they made the mistake of creating strip malls just south of the peninsula that creates the port and where the town center is located. Big box stores, fast food, national brand retail, and grocery stores can all be found in these strip malls with huge parking lots. This seems to have shifted all of the commerce from the city center, so when you arrive in the center of town, things are run down, stores boarded up, and beautiful buildings are deteriorating. There’s no there there. I walked the whole peninsula. There’s a promenade on the north end with a marina and a yacht club, but, other than that, the town is a waste of a beautiful coastal setting. Because of this, I had to call an audible and change up my reservation a bit. I had booked two nights here because I figured I’d explore the northern coast of Anglesey, but I just wanted out. It felt like Algeciras way back in December in Spain, but at least there I had a balcony. Anyway, it was an easy fix. I went over to the ferry office and just switched my ticket and then I added another night to my hotel im Dublin. So I’ll be on the 9 am ferry to Dublin tomorrow morning. It looks like this will be goodbye to the UK for this trip. I’m glad I had such a good stay in Bangor.Read more

    • Day 4

      Penrhyn Castle bei Bangor

      October 12, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Den deutschen Text findest du unten!

      "Arriving in Wales, we declared Penrhyn Castle near Bangor as our destination for the day. The castle was built in the 19th century and reflects the immense wealth of the landlords of that time, who primarily exploited the population in the Caribbean and colonies, using slaves to work for them, especially in sugar cane cultivation in Jamaica. In essence, Rupert could claim a part of the castle for himself. I believe he would opt for the kitchen.

      Now, we're heading to Anglesey to visit our friends Shona and Chris."

      In Wales angekommen, erklärten wir Penrhyn Castel bei Bangor zu unserem heutigen Ziel.
      Das Schloss wurde erst im 19. Jahrhundert erbaut und zeugt von dem unermesslichen Reichtum der damaligen Landherren, die vor allem in der Karibik und den Kolonien die Bevölkerung ausbeuteten und Sklaven für sich arbeiten ließen, in diesem Fall vor allem beim Zuckerrohranbau in Jamaica. Im Grunde könnte Rupert einen Teil des Schlosses für sich beanspruchen. Ich glaube er würde sich für die Küche entscheiden.
      Jetzt sind wir auf dem Weg nach Angelsey zu unseren Freunden Shona und Chris.
      Read more

    • Day 2

      Bangor — Penrhyn Castle

      April 12 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

      Returning to the UK felt like coming home. I’ve spent more than three months here during this trip, so returning to fish & chips, Tesco supermarkets, Wetherspoons, organized queues, and panel tv shows brought a certain feeling of comfort. I’m on my way to Ireland to meet Joe & Sue in Dublin (and then everyone else in Shannon) so I’m hanging out this week in North Wales. The welcome I got today from Sandra when I arrived in Bangor was truly heartwarming. She runs a little hotel and Chinese restaurant near the station, and she just couldn’t do enough for me. It was her suggestion to go to Penrhyn Castle. “In spite of the politics surrounding it,” it is her favorite. She circled some spots on the map, arranged for a cab, gave me a big hug, and sent me on my way. Penrhyn was beautiful. It was a perfect re-entry to Wales with its lush green setting, fluffy white lambs in the meadow, and deep gray stones of the castle. This is slate country. In fact, its the namesake for Bangor, Pennsylvania which was founded by a man from this Welsh city who set up the slate industry there. Penrhyn Castle sits on a hill overlooking the Bangor shoreline. It was a strategic location in the 15th century when it was first built. The wealthy barons who lived in the castle in the last 200 years were on the Jeff Bezos level, according to one of the docents on the castle tour. I asked her to explain what Sandra would have meant by her comment that Penrhyn was unpopular because of its politics. In 1900, the Baron of Penrhyn owned much of the land surrounding Bangor, including the slate quarry. When the workers in the quarry unionized and threatened to strike, the baron refused to negotiate. When the workers decided to strike, he closed the quarry and then later replaced them with non-union workers. Known as The Great Strike of Penrhyn, it lasted for three years, the longest dispute in British labor history. It divided the community, weakened the slate industry in Wales, and caused great suffering for quarry workers and their families. Signs in Bangor homes proclaimed “Nid oes bradwyr yn y ty hwn” (There is no traitor in this house) to make it clear that the home did not belong to someone who crossed the picket line. And that is why Sandra was almost embarrassed to say how much she liked the castle. It holds a dark place in Welsh history, mainly because Bezos-level wealth meant that the Baron could afford to just shut down the quarry and outlast the striking quarrymen. The opulence of the castle’s interior was much less impressive after learning of its history.Read more

    • Day 3

      Beaumaris

      April 13 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

      Invaded by Saxons and Vikings and then by England’s Edward I in his 1282 campaign to conquer Wales, Beaumaris lies at the eastern entrance of the Menai Strait between North Wales and the Isle of Anglesey.Read more

    • Day 49

      South Stack Lighthouse

      October 22, 2022 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Toll gelegener Leuchtturm auf der Insel Anglesey. Über 400 Stufen .........angeblich nichts für Menschen mit Höhenangst, aber kein Problem.
      Frage mich inzwischen, warum ich so oft in Schottland und Irland war, aber noch nie in Wales!!Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Anglesey, AGY, Môn

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