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Heading north and outback

August 2018 - May 2024
No idea where we will end up, still unsure about heading to the coast or staying inland. That’s the beauty of not having to be anywhere at a specific time - we can chop and change our minds as we go. Looking forward to seeing more Aussie outback! Read more
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  • TravelerHeading north and outback
    Day 20

    The famous Nindigully Pub

    September 8, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Well, today may very well be a record for the shortest number of kilometres driven to our next overnight stop - a total of 34km down the road from Thallon to the nearby Nindigully Pub.

    We’d heard you could camp at the old pub situated on the banks of the Moonie River and we were keen to find a spot along the river bank and go to the pub for happy hour, some live music in the beer garden and a feed at this iconic pub.

    While we didn’t eat the famous 5.5kg road train burger (said to feed at least six people) we did get through large serves of a parma and a chicken carbonara.

    The Gully as it’s commonly called among locals, has the honour of being Queensland’s oldest continuously licensed pub since 1864. Prior to that the building was the original shearer’s quarters for Nindigully Station.

    We found a perfect spot along the river, away from the big red dusty car park next to the hotel and spent the afternoon enjoying the sunshine and the tranquility of the river and chatting to some of our fellow camping neighbours.

    I was in the mood to bake so after putting a pizza into the Weber I baked some choc chip chocolate muffins and a honey cake. Tomorrow is Jewish New Year and although we are far from home we feel that eating some honey cake tomorrow evening and some apple slices dipped in honey well help to symbolize the beginning of what will hopefully be a sweet new year - for us and for all people across the world.

    Around 5ish we headed up to the beer garden at the pub with some of our neighbours and enjoyed some delicious white wine as we ate and listened to local artist Scott Troutman sing soulfully and play guitar as the afternoon sun faded away and was replaced by twinkly fairy lights around the garden.

    And to cap off another lovely day on the road, as we were leaving the pub to walk back to our caravan down on the river, we looked up into the inky black sky and marveled at the millions of stars that were visible up above. Even the Milky Way could be seen clearly against the charcoal backdrop.

    G’night xx    Read more

  • TravelerHeading north and outback
    Day 21

    Just another day at the Gully

    September 9, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We’ve decided to stay put for a few days as we are loving being right on the bank of the Moonie River with the iconic Nindigully Pub just a stone’s throw away with important facilities like wine and food, as well as clean toilets and free hot showers provided for campers (gold coin donation requested for the RFDS).

    Today we lazed around, starting with scrambled eggs and toast made in the Weber, which we ate by the river’s edge in the lovely dappled sunlight.

    Gadi went for a kayak and I worked out details on the phone with my mum and our son for their impending visit to Cairns in October where we will have a mini holiday with them for nine days.

    We spent some time in the afternoon sitting in the beer garden with our neighbours listening to singer Loren Ryan (who appeared on The Voice last year and sang a duet “Bootilicious” with Kelly Rowland) belt out tunes accompanied by her partner (and last night’s singer) Scott Troutman.

    Tonight, in our little home on wheels, Gadi and I celebrated Jewish New Year, with a sticky sweet homemade honey cake (yes, baked in the Weber) and some apple slices dipped in honey to symbolize the start of what will hopefully be a sweet start to the Jewish New Year.

    Missing our family particularly tonight (as we usually celebrate with our kids, my mum, sister and family), we made phone calls home to Melbourne and to our family in Israel. It helped to bridge the gap and make us feel a little closer to our loved ones, here and abroad.

    At least we will see our boy and my mum in just a month’s time.

    Night night xx    Read more

  • TravelerHeading north and outback
    Day 22

    More chilling at the Gully

    September 10, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today dawned bright and sunny with a perfect forecast of 27 degrees, with a lovely light breeze. We are very happy to be staying here for another day, especially as we are waiting for a parcel we have had sent to the Roma Post Office and it hasn’t arrived yet, so we’d rather hang around here than hang around closer to Roma in a spot nowhere near as pleasant as this one.

    We said goodbye to our neighbours we have been chatting to the last couple of days, and settled down to relax outdoors. I baked a loaf of bread in the Weber (kneading it by hand by the riverbank) as we’ve now run out of bread and wraps.

    Gadi went for a long kayak down the river and Cadbury and I walked along the river bank enjoying the serenity and bird life.

    Tonight we are relaxing in our little home on wheels; we’ve packed up the outside awning and put away the extra table and chairs in readiness for moving on tomorrow. We are heading to Roma and after that, Carnarvon Gorge.

    Night night from the Nindigully Pub xx    Read more

  • TravelerHeading north and outback
    Day 23

    Moving On & Battery Testing

    September 11, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today we finally moved from our lovely riverside pub stay at Nindigully Pub. We made our way to St George where we filled up water at the visitor Centre (causing a scuffle of grey nomads who thought we’d pushed in front of them - actually we’d been waiting before them but not on a good angle for swinging in to the tap so we drove out and in again, much to the disgust of the anxious nomads waiting).

    After filling we walked along the river front and then visited a indigenous art gallery and got a personal guided tour of the paintings by the artist as well as an introduction and explanation of the didgeridoo. He played several words in his local tongue using the didgeridoo and then played us a story of a kangaroo hopping along, stopping on alert but eventually being overcome by a wild dog. It was very special to have this one on one tour.

    Next, we crossed the Main Street and visited the Unique Egg, a museum (almost shrine) to the carving of emu eggs by one man, Stavros, who migrated to Australia from Greece many years ago snd settled in St George. He is the only person in the world who makes these carvings, after many years ago picking up an emu egg and discovering the many layers to the shell, which he began gently carving with home made whittling tools. Carving the eggs has become a labor of love and a legacy, as he doesn’t sell them, but is happy for people to view them in his museum. Each egg has a different image carved into it, many celebrating big world events such as Olympic Games, centenaries, presidencies and marriages. He has given gifts of an egg carved specially to Barack Obama (and received an official letter of thanks), among others.

    After a quick stop at a bakery for lunch we filled fuel and discovered there was an auto electrician in town where we spent the next couple of hours having the car and caravan batteries tested (we’ve been having trouble keeping them charged) and an Anderson cable drilled in readiness for our new inverter we are still waiting to arrive at the post office in Roma.

    Cadbury and I went to sit in the shade across the road and waited...and waited...

    Eventually after 5pm (and an invoice for waaay too much money, but we won’t talk about that!) we were finally on our way, albeit very late to be driving on country highways as sunset was almost upon us - and this is the time kangaroos like to stay close to the road as it retains the heat from the day.

    We drove very carefully to the next small town of Surat and made it to the free camp just on dark, both weary from being on kangaroo alert. We drove in, set up the satellite dish (some people are addicted to Survivor!) and heated up leftover chicken curry for a quick dinner.

    That’s all for today. Good night from Surat, Queensland xx    Read more

  • TravelerHeading north and outback
    Day 24

    To Roma and Beyond!

    September 12, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    We left our campsite in Surat this morning and made our way first to the Shire Hall offices where they have free (and clean) hot showers. Feeling fresh we took it in turns to visit the Cobb and Co Museum (one of us had to stay with Cadbury outside) where we learnt about the history of the surrounding area when the Cobb and Co horse and carts were the life blood of rural outback towns such as Surat. They brought mail and goods, and transported travelers throughout the outback towns, stopping every 25km at various ‘change stations’. These change stations were usually an outback station where the driver could exchange his horses for fresh ones, and travelers could partake of a home made meal made by the lady of the house.

    Next we headed to the large town of Roma. First stop, yes you guessed it - the visitor centre! Behind the centre is the Big Rig (a display including a giant mine shaft headframe explaining the exploration of oil and gas in the region) and nearby is a fully preserved historic hand built miner’s cottage that housed a family of 11.

    We ate salad sandwiches, honey cake and chocolate muffins sitting in parkland along a creek with ducks napping in the sun close by.

    We also visited Roma’s largest bottle tree before it was time for me to do some serious shopping at Woollies. Gadi took Cadbury for a walk and ended up finding a hairdresser to tame his wild hair.

    Putting the shopping away in an already half full fridge was no easy feat! We put it away as quickly as possible, anxious to get on the road again before it got too dark.

    We made it to our next stop at the small town of Injune, just 2 hours away from Carnarvon Gorge. We pulled up to our chosen free campsite at the Injune Rodeo Grounds at around 5.15pm. Enough time to set up, prepare dinner and enjoy a pretty sunset.

    It was still hot when we got here, and for the first time on this trip mosquitoes came out in force. It’s now cooled down nicely and we should have a comfortable night’s sleep.

    From Injune in Queensland, g’night xx    Read more

  • TravelerHeading north and outback
    Day 25

    On to Sandstone Park at Carnarvon Gorge

    September 13, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We were lucky enough to have water at our free camp so I took the opportunity to wash my hair and a few small items, as we won’t have any water while staying at Carnarvon Gorge for the next few days, other than what is in our tanks (about 180 litres) plus another 20 spare in the car plus 20 litres of drinking water.

    As we drove the scenery once again was completely different to what we’d seen the last few days. We could see escarpments of the Gorge and the passing fields seemed greener and irrigated.

    We arrived at the campsite (part of Bandana Station) early afternoon and found a spot to settle with a bit of shade and close to the portaloos. What breath taking scenery of the Gorge from every angle, and several wallabies were grazing within meters of our caravan.

    Later in the afternoon we went to a talk in the park about Indigenous history of the area by Indigenous elder, Milton. In his soft spoken (difficult to hear) voice he spoke about his own connection to country, his upbringing and his people, as well as giving us guided information on what to look out for while walking in the park. Finally, he left us with his view, which we found similar to those of the elder we did a guided tour with in Brewarrina, NSW) - that his people do not own the land but rather they belong to it. He spoke of differing views among indigenous people when native title took place, with the younger members pushing the elders aside, saying they did not have the education to negotiate in the white man’s world. He said these younger people were only interested in financial gain, and this has caused deep long-held dissension among his people, and indigenous people from other areas too.

    After the talk we finished off setting up our site and prepped dinner before taking in a lovely sunset against the bare rock face to our west.

    A chat to our neighbours followed by dinner of chicken fillets marinated in sweet chili and kejap manis on the Weber, with quinoa and a salad. Oh, and some indulgence in some chocolate cheese cake (thanks Sara Lee!) and a slice of chocolate mud cake (thanks Woollies Roma!).

    And time to call it a night and make preparations for Gadi’s long day of hiking in the park early tomorrow.

    Sweet dreams from Carnarvon Gorge xx    Read more

  • TravelerHeading north and outback
    Day 26

    A Day to Chill, a Day to Hike

    September 14, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Gadi woke up early so he made some sandwiches for breakfast, packed his lunch and left before 7am, heading into Carnarvon Gorge for a full day of hiking.

    Meanwhile, I was awake so went to sit outside with my coffee, contemplating the serenity of the early morning and the magic of the surrounding cliffs, different in every light.

    While sitting outside, Cadbury by my side, I saw what i think were two eagles soaring high above the gorge. They swooped and seemingly floated on air, searching for prey. They got closer and closer to our end of the campsite until they were right overhead. I felt quite spooked and held Cadbury tightly by his collar, well aware of the stories that they can take small dogs.

    I spent the day relaxing, reading, re-organizing some of our cupboards - I have no idea how we accumulate so much stuff in such a small space!

    Cadbury and I walked around the camp site and were lucky enough to have a mother and baby wallaby spend the entire day just across from us, and later in the day they even made their way over by our caravan, where I got some good photos of them.

    Gadi finally got back around 5.30pm, totally exhausted and barely able to walk (his arthritic toe was obviously bothering him) but he’d had a great day and walked over 25km, making it to the very end of the Gorge (which he was told hardly anyone makes it so far).

    While Gadi collapsed on the bed needing a quick nap, I turned on the Weber and barbecued dinner, sitting outside under a million star, inky black sky.

    Good night from Carnarvon Gorge xx    Read more

  • TravelerHeading north and outback
    Day 27

    Last day at the Gorge

    September 15, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    This morning was my turn to head the 5km into the Gorge to enjoy the beauty of the dramatic landscape and do some of the shorter walks.

    I started at the visitor Centre and read many of the displays about the park. Outside, I walked around the parklands nearby, enjoying the green, shady oasis. Suddenly I heard a small rustling sound among the fallen leaves and I was lucky enough to see an echidna trying to bury its face into a nearby log. I sat nearby and waited until the echidna felt confident enough that I wouldn’t hurt it and it began to shuffle away, slowly walking along the pathway under the canopy of tall trees.

    After my wildlife encounter, I set off to walk to the Rock Pool, the only place in the whole gorge where you are allowed to swim. The pool was lovely and deep, albeit very cold. I sat awhile in the shade enjoying the dappled light and sound of the flowing river.

    Next I walked to Baloon Cave along a dry creek bed to a cave with ancient Indigenous carvings and paintings.

    I headed home around lunchtime and then Gadi drove back to the park to finish off the walks he didn’t get to do yesterday.

    We made pizza in the Weber accompanied by leftover salad and quinoa and a cold glass of white wine. We sat outside under a big blanket of twinkly stars enjoying a light breeze which finally cooled the heat of the day (31 today, sorry Melbourne). We even played a card game of Bush rummy (well, part of a game as I got too tired to continue).

    Night night from Carnarvon Gorge xx    Read more

  • TravelerHeading north and outback
    Day 28

    Epic Day of Driving...For Us!

    September 16, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    From first light this morning a fog of dust hung low over the entire gorge making visibility difficult.

    We set off from Sandstone Park just before 11am - could have been earlier if it wasn’t Sunday (and Gadi has to watch Insiders!).

    We drove to Rolleston where we stopped to refuel and have a walk around the local park, complete with old post office (now a gallery), miner’s hut and coffee van manned by volunteers. We enjoyed a great coffee and delicious home made chocolate coconut slice.

    Continuing on to Springsure where everything was shut and then on to the large town of Emerald, where again everything, including the visitor Centre, was closed. This was annoying as it was mid afternoon and this also meant the historic houses attached to the Centre were also closed. We did get to see the giant replica Van Gogh Sunflower painting in the adjacent park.

    Given the heat and it was still early we decided to push on and get a few more km under our belts before we stopped. From Emerald we headed west along the Capricorn Highway. We passed the Gemfields, a vast area of some 900 square kilometers made up of several small towns including Yanakie, Sapphire, Willows and Rubyvale where gems, predominantly sapphires, can be fossicked. This is one of the largest sapphire fields in the world.

    We pulled over just after 5pm (and just over 400km for the day) at a free camp in Willows, along an historic old railway station, now housing a museum, lovingly put together and maintained by volunteers. Just on sunset a couple of volunteers came by to do some maintenance and kindly opened up the museum for us to look at. We learnt a bit more about the history of the area including a bad railway accident in 1960 known as the Medway Creek railway disaster (a bridge collapsed due to flooding on a passenger train heading east to Rockhampton) that saw seven people killed and 43 injured in Queensland’s worst rail disaster.

    After a quick dinner we settled in to watch some TV, thanks to Gadi’s newfound confidence in setting up the satellite dish.

    So thankful there is a slight breeze coming in the window as we settle into bed this evening.

    Night night from the Central Highlands in Queensland. Tomorrow we’ll be visiting a certain tree of knowledge - one that has nothing to do with the Bible!    Read more

  • TravelerHeading north and outback
    Day 29

    The birth of..the Australian Labor Party

    September 17, 2018 in Australia

    We packed up at our sweet little overnight stop in Willows next to the railway museum. Of course we were the last of the four caravans to leave! Before leaving Gadi wanted to try to weigh our caravan on a straight stretch of road using his new (and expensive) weighing instrument, but it proved to be difficult to get a consistent or accurate reading of both the car and the caravan.

    We stopped to refuel in Alpha and chatted to another couple of travellers heading to the Gemfields. They kindly gave us some fresh fruit and vegetables just given to them by a local policeman as they had too much - leftovers from a fundraiser event, including cherry tomatoes, strawberries, a whole pumpkin and some sweet potatoes.

    We continued on through Jericho (on the bank of the Jordan Creek) and on to Barcaldine. Home of the Tree of Knowledge - now a replica since the original was poisoned in 2006 - and a huge artwork canopy forming a tribute to what is now known as the birthplace of the Australian Labor Party.

    Barcaldine is the headquarters of the 1891 Shearers Strike and the 1892 reading of the Labor Party manifesto. The workers of the Shearers Strike reportedly met under the branches of the big ghost gum, located in front of the Barcaldine Station. After taking lots of photos and reading all the information boards, we headed to the Australian Workers Heritage Centre to learn about the history of service workers in Australia. Displays covered railway, Australia Post, health & medical, emergency services, police, electrical and women. We were the only people at the Centre, giving us uninterrupted time to explore and read the information and interact with some of the displays. Nice they let us bring Cadbury with us as we wandered around and enjoyed a picnic lunch in the shade next to a man made bore watering hole.

    After a quick supermarket stop, we continued to the local free camp after the worst of the heat of the day had disappeared. The caravan was still hot inside so we sat outside for a while and I chatted to some other travellers while Gadi set up the satellite dish.

    We ate dinner (steak pan cooked inside tonight) and settled in for the evening. We watched ABC’s Four Corners’ shocking investigation into aged care with growing disgust and anger to this vastly unregulated privatized industry.

    G’night from Labor’s birthplace in central Queensland xx    Read more

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