The Åkes do Europe 2016

May - June 2016
A 47-day adventure by Jason and Danielle Read more
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  • Day 24

    Bremen, Germany

    May 26, 2016 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Day 23:

    We lucked out again (as we knock on every accessible wood surface) with the weather on the way to the train station. A light drizzle was actually quite refreshing, plus Danielle got to use her sweet moose scarf from Norway. When we made the reservation for the train a couple days ago, the man at the window recommended that we go first class. And he was right! We had wide, lumbar-supporting seats in a section with only 6 seats *read: no screaming children* A 5 hour ride to Hamburg isn't bad when you're comfortable. What we weren't expecting was the train to board a ferry to travel between Denmark and Germany. That was a pretty neat experience. We had to get off the train while crossing, which gave us a chance to get some fresh air and stretch our legs. Then from Hamburg to Bremen, we had a proper coupé that we shared with an old German couple.

    Feeling pretty fancy arriving to the station, we decided to walk past the famous Park Hotel into Der Bürgerpark. It had to be over a square mile of wild grasses and oak trees, with streams and walking paths passing through. We sat on a bench there and relaxed for probably an hour before moving on to our next airbnb. Which, side note, we have LOVED using! Our host is an alternative medicine healer in a 100 year old house. We were greeted with a friendly tour and hazelnut chocolates on our pillows. We were so excited!

    Since we're in a less touristy city, we figured we'd go out to the most obnoxiously traditional German restaurant. Based almost solely on the name, we ended up going to Edel Weiss. There was a pretzel tree inside, so suffice it to say we were not disappointed. Danielle got about 3 pounds of porkschnitzel on fries, mushrooms, and bacon, and Jason got white asparagus with porkschnitzel, potatoes, and hollandaise. One of, if not THE, best meal we have ever had at a restaurant. Apparently we tipped well, because our waitress said "one moment" and brought us shots of apfel schnapps after we paid. We didn't complain.

    Danielle noticed a sign that said there was a bier fest in Bremen that just so happened to be from May 26-28. What a happy coincidence. After listening to an Australian band at the train station for a little bit, we wandered to the city center, following the music. Dozens of beer tents were out (including Stone Berlin!) and a German country music band was playing. We were able to try beer from a Bremen-based brewery that we really enjoyed!

    It may not be at the top of the travel list for most people, but 2 days may not be enough here for us.
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  • Day 25

    Bremen, Germany pt II

    May 27, 2016 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Day 24:

    Today we were able to sleep in a bit and picked up some pastries (which were nowhere near the quality of Scandinavian pastries... but they were from a train station, so we'll have the difficult task of tasting more) and coffee before heading into town.

    We don't even know where to begin with the sights in Bremen. Its such a small town, but its packed with our favorites: stunning old buildings and open parks. Just the train station alone was built in the mid 1800s and looks magnificent. First on our list to visit was the St Petri Dom, a massive 2 tower cathedral that's on all of the souvenirs from Bremen. But of course, on the way we get excited by the sight of a huge tower and decide to follow that to be slightly disappointed. It led us to the Gemeinde Unser Lieben Frauen Kirche, which we're sure is beautiful, but was under construction and covered in scaffolding and plastic. Thanks to our dear friend, Google, we're sort of bummed that we didn't get to see the church. The first church on the site was built in the NINTH century! But of course war destroyed the building, then it was rebuilt, just to get burned down again, over and over. So its hard to know when the actual parts that remain were put in place, but still... that's just baffling.

    Continuing on, by which we mean taking 15 or so steps, we narrowly avoided being pushed in front of a tram by an old couple and entered the Marktplatz. Our backs were to the Bremer Rathaus (town hall), and we were facing, get this, Handelskammer Bremen - Industrie und Handelskammer für Bremen und Bremerhaven. Yes. The most German name possible for the chamber of commerce. The building itself, Haus Schütting, and the "IHK" have vast histories in and of themselves, but we can't go THAT deep into a history lesson... but the building is from the mid 1500s and has awesome gold detailing. Inside the marketplace was the statue of Roland, a stone figure built in 1404 depicting one of Charlemagne's bossiest warriors, said to be guarding the city.

    Once we had a chance to turn around and see the Rathaus, despite some construction, it was an incredible gothic building from the early 13th century. Through some of the coverings, we could see figures of different emperors and other important people, making another call to the Holy Roman Empire. That starts to put into perspective how massive the empire really was, before any modern transportation. Completely insane.

    Right around the corner, we got our first look at what brought us to the city, the St Petri Dom. Its easy to see why that is the trademark of the city, it seriously takes your breath away. And that was just the outside. Inside, the detail and preservation was impressive. They even had the original hand carved wooden doors displayed on a wall. 3 sets of massive pipe organs, open halls, and a dungeonesque room of silence in the basement that seriously looked fake. Like something at Medieval Times. Its impossible to describe, and even harder to capture in a picture the scale of everything, yet if you look closely, the details are all so fine. And to think, it was built in 789. A THREE digit year! It was built closer to the time Jesus was on earth than us. Of course, being built in the middle ages, it was burned, smashed, ransacked, and pissed on for hundreds of years, leaving the earliest parts still remaining being from about the 11th century.

    Next, we went to Böttcherstraße, this weird, artistic street built in the 20s. It was definitely interesting, but very strange. Bricks stacking out from the walls, twists and turns, and everything is made in an expressionist style. Funny fact: the entrance has a large golden art piece called the Bringer of Light. It was built to represent Hilter, but he disagreed with their love of the Nordic people so he never accepted it. Which is probably why the art piece still exists today. So we can thank the Nordic people again!

    We were in need of some of Bremen's finest, and we knew we were near another iconic street, so we made our way to Schnoor. It was originally the poor end of town in the middle ages, and ironically is the best preserved portion of housing from the era. Being a historically poor area made Schnoor a less than prime target during the world wars, which, history lesson, was the worst for a community in Germany. Essentially taxes had to be paid for NOT having your house destroyed. So the residents moved out of the already dilapidated houses and were replaced by restaurants and businesses that now sell goofy souvenirs to tourists. But the area is amazingly preserved as exactly what you would imagine as classic German houses.

    Leaving Schnoor, we came across the Propsteikirche St. Johann. Its a 14th century monastery church. Of course it was beautiful, of course we touched the bricks, but the crown jewel of the church is said to be the pipe organ. Unfortunately, with the upturn in the economy, everything under construction. We don't mind, because that is preserving these beautiful buildings for future generations, but we would've liked to have seen the inside. We then wandered upon the Sankt Martini Kirche. Story time. Basically, the citizens of the town said they were sick of everything in the city being militaristic and they wanted more churches. So whatever head of the church set out plans to build. It was the early 13th century, and most of the original building remains. There was a docent there when we went through the church, and he was so enthusiastic about everything that we just couldn't break to him that we didn't understand a word he said. ...other than detailed, which it definitely was.

    As we made our way back to the city center, we caught something we had lost in the awe of everything, the Bremer Stadtmusikanten. Its a relatively new sculpture depicting the characters of a fairy tale called, of course, the Town Musicians of Bremen. The characters in the story at no point were in Bremen, but it was written by the Brothers Grimm, so they can do whatever they please... After all, the did write Cinderella, Sleeping Beauty, Snow Qite, Hansel and Gretel, Rapunzel, and any other classic Disney film you could think of. We rubbed the donkey's hoof to have a wish come true, and moved on. Its fun to see iconic sculptures such as those, but no need to linger.

    We had seen that Am Wall was a sight to see, as well, but we got distracted by the park along Am Wall street and ended up taking a nap on the grass next to a huge windmill. Turns out the windmill was actually built on top of an old gate tower, from when the city was surrounded by ramparts. We didn't end up looking at the houses on Am Wall, partially because we didn't really look in depth into what was special about them. They are houses built on and integrating the medieval wall. We're not sure how apparent that it, but its still a pretty cool fact.

    We went to the Bier Fest again, but instead of country, it was some pretty crazy rock band. We ended up talking to an older German couple who were very passionate about American craft beer and apparently make a biannual trip to California.

    It was another very busy day, with a whole bunch of walking. Luckily, our bodies are getting used to the walking, so its just funny to look at the step counter when we get home, saying we walked 10 miles!
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  • Day 26

    Zaandam, Netherlands

    May 28, 2016 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Day 25:

    This morning we went to the Findorff Markt, a farmer's market for the small part of Bremen we were living in. Our host said it was a small farmer's market, however, it was massive. There were multiple cheese places, butchers, vegetables, fruits, knife sharpeners, flowers, and of course Danielle found the pretzel stand. Basically the best farmer's market of our lives.

    In the afternoon, we boarded our train to Osnabrück, Germany, then caught a connection to Amsterdam, Netherlands. In the second train, we were in a coupé with an older couple who were on their way to Amsterdam for a cruise down the Rhine River. We were pretty jealous! Once in Amsterdam, we parted ways from the frat guys who, from the sound of it, were very big fans of Dutch coffee and pastries, and boarded a regional train to Zaadam. Its a smaller, slower town just outside of Amsterdam that we thought would fit us better, concerning both stress and budget. We found our next place in an awesome old house along a stream.

    We were figuratively starving, so Danielle found an Egyptian restaurant just down the street. PHENOMENAL lamb shawarma. And our server liked us so much. He asked us where we were from, and after we gushed about the shawarma, he told us we were their guests and ended up giving us a round of beers on the house while we were watching the football game! We felt so at home in such a foreign place. On our way home, we went to this little bar that was going crazy to watch the end of the game. But it was a travel day, so we are exhausted.
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  • Day 27

    Zaanse Schans, Netherlands

    May 29, 2016 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Day 26:

    I think its fair to say that we are a little intimidated by Amsterdam. Our original plan was to come to the Netherlands to see Amsterdam, when made our reservations, we decided to stay in a town outside the city and travel in to visit. Today was supposed to be that day. But instead, we followed the canal we are on north to an outdoor museum representing traditional Holland in the 17th and 18th centuries. Yes, we mean windmills.

    It was overcast today, but that didn't bother us much at all. It was over an hour walk, and parts we passed through were very industrial, so we experience a strange variety of smells... Anyway, we turned our last corner and immediately came upon one of the windmills, sails spinning!

    But before we get into those 8 beautiful beasts... history time. Hundreds of years ago, during the Eighty Years' War, the Spanish were basically pulling on the Dutch what the English pulled on the American colonies 200 years later. Taxes, forcing religion, being jerks, etc. So the Dutch started revolting and the Spanish beat them down pretty soundly at first, but in North Holland they stayed feisty. In the Zaan region, they built a series of sconces to slow down the Spanish. Kalver Schans was the one at that location, and was one of the few to never be overrun. There are no remnants of the bastions or any sign of the sconce, other the name of the park. After those times, the region became the first insustrial site in the world, housing over 500 windmills, all serving different purposes.

    Now that we're back to the windmills... As modern industry made the windmill all but obsolete, most were taken down and their materials harvested. Starting in the 1960s, remaining windmills from around the region were transported to Zaanse Schans, along with houses from the same era. Some of them still function to this day, others house modern equipment inside, and others are simply preserved models. They all have their own character, history, purpose, and name. On the site they have De Os (1663), Het Klaverblad (2005. Foundation to build, run, and maintain a sawmill in traditional methods), De Huisman (1786), De Gekroonde Poelenburg (1733, kind of), De Kat (1646), De Zoeker (1672), Het Jonge Schaap (replica of 1680) and De Bonte Hen (1693). 3 sawmills, 3 oilmills, a dyemill, and a mustardmill.

    We loved the sound they made when the sails would rush by. We put off going into one of the few you can climb up and look around until we saw all of them and picked our favorite. Unfortunately, they all closed by then, so we didn't get to go inside any. Despite that, we are so happy to have been able to see original windmills in Holland!

    The houses were small, beautiful, inhabited by people living real lives, and just adorable. There were little "islands" created by the system of streams and canals, some of which had houses, others had sheep, and others had goats. And of course they were all connected by the cutest little bridges. Jason discovered an ability to communicate with sheep. Unfortunately, he scared a lamb who ended up crying to his dad...

    There were workshops for different traditional trades in Holland around the museum. We were able to see a demonstration of how clogs are made, which was fascinating. They use wet, young wood, so after he was done carving out the shape he blew air into the shoe and water literally gushed out of the wood and shocked everyone. Another trade respresented was cheesemaking, gouda being the specialty. There was one for chocolate making, where people could sign up for a workshop to make their own chocolate bar! Another was for baking, with a small museum in the back with all sorts of baking tools and recipes, where we got hot stroopwafels! It was great to see people so passionate about traditional trades, producing great products the way they have been made for generations.

    On our long journey home, needing something other than the traditional pastries, chocolate and cheese, we stopped at our Egyptian restaurant again. Our server was excited to see us again and wanted us to make friends with his son.

    We will definitely sleep well again. Amsterdam tomorrow. For real this time.
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  • Day 28

    Amsterdam, Netherlands

    May 30, 2016 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Day 27:

    Amsterdam. Not our favorite city, by any means. And not exactly sure how to sum it up, but it definitely was not what we expected it to be. On one side, its a beautiful 700 something year old city, bursting with history. On the far opposite side, it is a semi-circle of frat guy-filled hell.

    We enjoyed seeing Amsterdam Centraal, Dam Square, Vondelpark, Westerkerk, De Nieuwe, and the Amsterdam Cheese Museum was pretty funny. We truly wish we had the opportunity to see Amsterdam when it was great, but think that time has passed. We would have loved to have taken a relaxing ride down the canals, ride bikes to the shops, have coffee at a streetside café, and have dutch pancakes at a bakery. Unfortunately, it has reached a level of tourism that made it feel like an amusement park. Truly sad.
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  • Day 29

    Köln, Germany

    May 31, 2016 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Day 28:

    Back in Germany, away from the unbiasedly offensive Dutch language to the mildly angry sounding German language. Yes, you read that right, German sounds less abrasive the Dutch.

    At Amsterdam Centraal, we knew what train we were going to take, and what time it left. But while waiting at the track, we noticed a little message at the bottom that translated to surcharge train. We decided that we would go get reservations, just in case. But since reservations technically aren't allowed to be last minute, we thought we would have to go on the next one 2 hours later. The lady at the desk told us she could put us on the one that was leaving in... 4 minutes. On the complete opposite side of the train station. And she said, "you're young, you can do it. And its the last car, so it'll be easy". So we jet for what we took to be the last car that would be easier for us to catch. Turns out we were at the wrong "last car". So it was an adventure walking through thin aisles with our massive bags on. After that, we had a painless train ride of just under 3 hours. But just as we were approaching the city... you know the clouds that come over Pride Rock after Mufasa gets killed, Scar takes over and Simba goes away? Pretty much those exact clouds completely covered the city. After that ominous experience, we pulled up to the train station, got out expecting it to be bitterly cold. Nope, perfect temperature. Oh, and we were also greeted by the tallest twin spired church in the world. Absolutely our favorite church so far. We were stopped in our tracks for a good 3 minutes. We thought St Petri in Bremen was going to be our favorite, but it just lost its top spot.

    While on this trip we haven't done too much on travel days, and this one was no different. We made dinner at home and, being in the home of the Kölsch, picked up a local beer. We also made a new friend and subsequently named him Meeko because he has a racoon tail.

    Thunderstorms are expected for tomorrow, so fingers crossed that we can still make it around to see the sights. I see quite a bit of potato soup in our future!
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  • Day 30

    Köln, Germany pt II

    June 1, 2016 in Germany ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Day 29:

    So lets take a small journey into our accommodations here... Last night we went to put the blackout shades down, and I don't know if they're doomsday preppers or what, but they weren't as much blinds as 2 levels of huge wooden blocks on the outside of the window. But no complaints here, they kept out the light... as well as any stray zombies. Also the beds. We slept in separate beds last night. Not because we are fighting or one bed was too small. Because the double bed is perched 2 meters in the air on a homemade bunk bed. Danielle drew the short straw (meaning was brave enough), and slept on the top bunk. But we made it through the night, and that's what matters.

    It was raining when we woke up, with no signs of halting. Throughout the day, it probably completely stopped 3 times. But luckily for us, it wasn't too crazy for most of the day. We wandered our way through the city, following old buildings, most notably being the Kölner Rathaus, Groß Sankt Martin Kirche, and of course, Kölner Dom.

    We do have to note that Köln is the first town we have seen that has tangible signs of how devastating the World Wars were. Beautiful old buildings were reduced to rubble. The only ones with the financing to be rebuilt were the chuches, but you can plainly see on the buildings where the original walls end and the 20th century replacement begins. Being completely honest, not much was left from the originals. Luckily, the World Wars happened after photography, allowing them to rebuild with accuracy. It gives a slightly skewed view into the past, either way.

    The Kölner Rathaus is the oldest documented city hall in all of Germany, with records back 900 years. The building was expanded upon in he succesive centuries with our favorite gothic styling. We did get rained on by rain coming from the mouth of one of the gargoyles, and for some reason we loved that fact. It was a little bit of a bummer hearing that the Great Saint Martin's Church was built in the latter part of the 20th century, but it was started in the 12th, so I think we might just stick with that.

    The Cologne Cathedral stands alone in its sheer size. Despite rain, we stood staring again. Inside was even more breathtaking. The ceiling was indescribably high, there were medieval tapestries, massive stained glass windows... I feel like we may have peaked as far as churches are concerned. Just amazing. Its such a ridiculous story behind the church, though. Churches existed on the same area since the 4th century, including what was known as the oldest catherdral. They tore down the old cathedral to build this one in the 1200s. The initial building lasted 200 years, then was halted, with towers topped by cranes, for 400 years, before completing it after another 50. So with that 400 year hiatus, it makes sense that it really overshadows the rest of the cathedrals from its era.

    Next, we went to Früh to have lunch and beer. They are one of the original brewers of the style designated solely to the region, the Kölsch. This was our first experience with a restaurant that replaces your beer without you asking. Sort of a shock at first, but at 18cl each, nobody should get into any trouble. The food was a beautiful mess of pork, potatoes, mushrooms, heavy sauces, and one tomato slice. It was just what we needed.

    We wandered our way home just before the rain went completely insane. We were more than happy to hear the madness from the safety of the inside.
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  • Day 31

    Bonnevoie, Luxembourg

    June 2, 2016 in Luxembourg ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Day 30:

    Today was a little rocky for us, but had its upsides too. We woke up late again because of those fortress style blackout curtains and had a hearty breakfast. Then, to make sure we got to the station as efficiently as possible, we left our directions to Google Maps. Who proceeded to add over a mile and half an hour to our journey by having us zig zag our way to the city center. After finding out we didn't need reservations for our trains, we decided to stick to our plans and check out the cathedral again. We checked our bags into a storage locker and headed there.

    We went inside the church again, and yes, its just as awe inspiring the second time. This time we were able to go behind the altar and see The Shrine of the Three Kings. Its the whole reason the church was built, and said to contain the remains of the three Magi. It was delivered, with a huge medieval precession of course, to the city of Köln in 1164. It sort of isn't worth trying to describe, so best bet would be to google it. Its this golden, shining box that contains the remains of men who were already old enough to be kings going on long, stargazing journeys at the turn of the.... not century, not millennium... era? So these fellas were born in fill-in-the-blank BC... crazy.

    We bought tickets to both climb the tower (why we would do this again is confusing) and the treasury. The tower climb was very cool and we had amazing sights of the Rhine River and the whole town. The tower is known for having the largest free swinging bell and we saw that beast! But again we found everyone around us huffing and puffing as we were just unreasonably scared. Luckily, we were contained inside for all of it, though. Its nice to take a minute and just think about where we are and how many people have been in the towers over their time. Speaking of numbers, realizing that you're 98 meters above ground also gives you a certain feeling...

    Then we went to the cathedral treasury. We are so sad that we weren't allowed to take pictures, because the items in there were beyond words. There were items from as far back as 300 AD, perfectly maintained coins, other things that we don't exactly know how to describe since we're not Catholic, and even the remains of an ancient Roman plumbing system from a building built on the site prior to the cathedral. The detail that people were capable so long ago is truly impressive.

    After our revisit of the cathedral, we headed towards Luxembourg. Unfortunately, we made the assumption that regional trains in Germany wouls be similar to those in Scandinavia... not so. We rushed to the station and were hard-pressed to find seats with any storage above, but finally did in the bike section. Everything was peachy for about 4 stops. Then the electricity shut off and it simply (in German) said get off the train. Apparently they were leaving several of the cars behind, and we had to scramble up to the front 3 to continue. So we stood for a couple of stops before seats opened up. After situating ourselves, a herd, yes, herd of a family came on and took over the whole section. They were loud, smelled awful, and were moving around the entire time. Time came for our switch and we had to just short of run to to reach the next train on time. We felt a sigh of relief after that.

    A short-ish walk later and we got to our next place to stay. Then we went to the only place serving or selling food within a half hour walk, a Thai place. We ended up having to run back after our meal because when they say rain in Europe, they mean RAIN. Not a slow start, not a trickle, like heavens opening rain. Somehow between goofy running and an awkwardly created bouquet of weeds and trees, it was a good night. Let's see what tomorrow brings.
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  • Day 32

    Luxembourg City, Luxembourg

    June 3, 2016 in Luxembourg ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Day 31:

    About a minute out the door this morning, we were in an open grassy field that we thought was the most magnificent thing we would see all day. 30 second's walk after some mild frolicking, we were in a deep forest. The forest floor was still damp from the rain last night, ivy had grown up the trunks of the trees, there was such a deep green to everything around, and birds were singing everywhere. It was majestic. Then a few steps up the path and we were in Luxembourg suburbia. As we passed through, there were wide expanses of fields, far beyond what our first little field was like. We followed a switchback road through what felt otherworldly, like rain forests in jurrasic park (for nerdy reasons we don't need to get into), then up switchbacks to the top of a mountain.

    Atop this mountainous hill sat Fort Thüngen. Like many in Luxembourg, there is a sad story for this fort. It was built in the early 1700s as an awesome fortress to protect the Redoute du Parc, atop a large hill. Unfortunately, in the latter part of the 19th century, it was forced to be demolished to basically prove that Luxembourg truly intended to remain neutral. Fast forward to WWI, the desire to remain neutral meant very little to the Germans, and without any defenses, they were railroaded (literally and figuratively) very quickly. Fortunately for us, the fort has been restored to its former glory, but unfortunately for us, now awkwardly has a museum of modern art integrated into it.

    Hungry and desiring some of these promised French pastries, we fumbled our way into the city center. A couple bonjours and mercis later, we had pastries, sandwiches, and cookies. One of which was a pain de chocolat et vanille that must translate to unicorn tears. We ended up sitting in front of a turn of the century building that turned out to be the relatively uninteresting Cercle Municipal for about an hour, enjoying a saxophonist play Phantom of the Opera.

    After relaxing, we somehow avoided seeing a couple of the more noteable buildings in the city center and moved on to see the Cathédrale Notre-Dame. No, not the one containing a hunchback, but it was still quite nice. It was an interesting mix of styles, probably pointing to the fact that it took three and a quarter centuries to finish the building... we have definitely been spoiled by churches so far, but this one was special.

    Across the street stood the Monument du Souvenir, or the "Golden Lady". She has a history of her own, from after the first World War to present day. The Monument of Remembrance was originally built to honor the over 1% of the total population who volunteered in the French army to fight German occupation. Then WWII came around and the Germans came in again (despite pledged neutrality) and tore down the monument. It took half of the 20th century to build it back up, but it is a beautiful reminder of the brutality of war.

    Unfortunately for us, the Aldolphe Bridge was completely under construction, so we could not see any of it. That's a tough thing to miss considering it is seen as a national symbol for Luxembourg, but that's fine. Especially because we were able to see the Passerelle, just to the east. Slightly older, so we can convince ourselves its the better one.

    After a short, but tiring day, we headed to the central station to reserve our next train. As a foreward to this part of the story, we avoided going to France on this particular vacation because of, well, the French. But that didn't stop those dirty little frogs from messing up something... French trains are on strike. A common phrase around these parts. So double the connections and add a few hours... thanks for confirming our initial thoughts to not visit.

    Sandwiches, local brews, and a backed up drain later, its bedtime.
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  • Day 33

    Luxembourg City, Luxembourg pt II

    June 4, 2016 in Luxembourg ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Day 32:

    It seems unnecessary at this point to mention that we had another late morning... the forecast was bad, but the trusty window check showed a beautiful day. We headed east and soon were reminded of the volatility of the weather here. A big cloud burst later, we came upon the Cimetière Militaire Américain. Fortunately, the clouds cleared for us to visit the monument and pay respects to Great Uncle Donald who lost his life in Luxembourg in the Battle of the Bulge. Its a sobering experience to see the graves of so many who were fighting on foreign soil and realizing that those over 5,000 soldiers never returned to America. And triple that number were brought back to be buried at home. Studying the battles in school just can't put into perspective the true sacrifice. The best we can do at this point is feel love for those who fought against oppression, not hatred or regret for the aggressors.

    After a moving experience at the memorial, we headed back to the city center. It was an hour walk, with google maps trying to murder us by putting us basically in the middle of the street for half a kilometer. Danielle made friends with a couple of donkeys, as we discovered a super cool program Luxembourg has that puts sheep and donkeys on government lands to use grazing to naturally keep the plants trimmed. We also saw a little piece of home with some golden poppies growing along the road.

    We finally came upon the "Gibraltar of the North" just before the sky opened up and rained like we have never experienced before. But before we get into that bedlam... the whole reason Luxembourg exists is because this guy named Siegfried bought these sheer cliffs bordering the Pétrusse River. They were partially inhabited from the 4th century on, but once Count Siegfried purchased them in 963 to defend his lands in the surrounding areas.

    The Bock is a natural defense as amazingly high rocky cliffs, three sides around a river, which were dug out to create an intricate tunnel system, as well as built upon to make one of the most impressive fortresses in Europe. What we went through are known as the casemates, essentially places where you can launch stuff at enemies, but they have little to no chance of getting back at you. So basically this place was impenetrable. It was attacked a lot, but never taken, and each time expansions were built along with the repairs. But remember the brilliant British idea to ensure neutrality? Yea, this one had to be scrapped too.

    Back to our extreme weather experiences... we feel rain starting, and being seasoned experts on rain, we throw on our waterproof jackets and we were good, right? Wrong. This rain literally made us laugh it was so extreme. The lightning looked like it could be hitting trees righr next to us, and the thunder was literally right above us. To the point where we could hear it roll over us as it was crackling and shaking the ground. We hid under small rock out-shoots to escape momentarily as we made our way to wherever we thought we were going. But even then, water would flood over our feet as it poured down the stairs, so we were forced to keep moving. Then, Danielle explained it best, we felt like Mary and Joseph. Each time there would be shelter, people were under it and we would look at them like "please let us in" and each time people would look back like "no room in the inn". So at this point, our waterproof jackets kept our upper bodies dry, but our pants... soaked. Like jumped in a pool soaked. After some time, we finally made it to the entrance of the casemates, and of course, the rain stops.

    After getting mildly lost in what felt like miles of tunnels, we visited Saint Michael's Church, which was the site of the Count's castle chapel, built in 987. But as we've seen before, little lasts through wars, and it went through the same destroy and rebuild as most other churches. The current one was built in the 17th century, and that, in and of itself is pretty awesome.

    We picked up some waters and headed home from there. After stopping in to grab groceries on the way, guess what... rain. That crazy rain again. The locals were all hanging out under the eaves waiting before they left. But being crazy Americans, and deservedly receiving some looks, we booked it for home. Booking it being relative, of course, because we had a 29 minute walk from there. Protecting our hot chicken wings like they were viable eggs of a dinosaur, we made it home competely resoaked to the bone. Luckily there was no further flooding, and we even had an apologetic note from our host, along with Luxembourg sparkling wine and Belgian chocolates. Something must have happened to the wine because the bottle is empty. But chicken wings, cup o' noodles, and some sweet tunes were exactly what we needed tonight.
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