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Camino
  • Sarah Naylor

Camino

En 52-dags äventyr från Sarah Läs mer
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  • Resans start
    4 september 2023
    Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär

    Alert to bunions

    26 juli 2023, Nya Zeeland ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    I am trying out this travel blog to document our
    travels on the Frances Camino which we begin on the 13th September.
    Hopefully after each day I am not too tired to write up the day!
    I am sure it will be an adventure for better or worse. At present we are trying to do as much walking as we can but life has a habit of getting in the way! Most days on the Camino we walk an average of 25 km so its not a doddle for our aging feet, knees and hips.
    So how did I talk Brian into this adventure! After years of a bad knee Brian finally had the knee replacement which has been hugely successful so hopefully the knee not a problem. Then this year after 45 years of Optometry Brian retired so after hearing about our good friends Jane and Lee were doing it this September, we thought lets do this! Are we crazy , well possibly . But one thing we sadly learnt last year with the loss of our Jack ,is that you never know what life will throw at you.
    Its not long now and lets hope the heat waves and the fires in Europe are well over.
    I havent used a travel blog site before so this is a dummy run but if anyone out there is interested in following us on the way then this is the platform I will be using. Today it is blowing a gale in Waikanae and we were to walk Hemi Matenga but the weather was so atrocious I came home and made chocolate self saucing pudding! A great alternative occupation.    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär

    Pengi on the Camino

    21 augusti 2023, Nya Zeeland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    It is 2 weeks today that we leave for Paris with 2 nights in Muscat enroute.
    Our 3 year old grandson Ollie has kindly given me his little penguin toy "Pengi" to take on the Camino which is fitting for our finding Penguin blog! I just hope Pengi is not lost on our travels as he is very well loved.
    The walking regime is going ok but August in NZ not a great month to entice us out into the muddy outdoors !
    We are now just looking forward to letting the adventure begin!
    Next stop Muscat!    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    1

    Off off an away

    4 september 2023, Nya Zeeland ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Waiting to board plane to Sydney . All very exciting and lovely to be with Pilgrim 1 and Pilgrim 2. Let the adventures begin!

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    1

    Muscat to Paris

    8 september 2023, Oman ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    We have had an interesting couple of days in an exotic city and a far cry from Palmerston North .
    After a wonderful spring day in Sydney wondering around the Rocks and harbour /Manly Bay area we boarded the plane to Kuala Lumpur with a few hours stop over and then on to the Mystique of Muscat in Oman.
    Oman is like UAE in that it is very wealthy due to oil and gas. Muscat the capital city is surrounded by jagged rocky hills and the Arabian sea. It is late summer here and incredibly hot as in 35 degrees.
    It is run by the Sultan of Oman who is worth an estimated 1 billion American dollars. Yesterday we had a great tour with Mohammed a devout Muslim and who was very handsome in his spotless white Omani traditional long tunic. Don't think I could cope with all that white!
    Mohammed was great and we saw the amazing Grand Mosque with a 9 ton chandelier made in Italy of 600,000 pieces of crystal. Not your everyday dining room light fitting. We were very pleased that the mosque was air-conditioned and I am sure the worshippers are too ,as they are called 5 times a day for worship. We were taken to meet an Imam after seeing the mosque and had an "interesting discussion" about the Islam faith. Lee the lawyer amongst us added quite a bit of light hearted debate to the chat which the Imam enjoyed. All the while we were eating delicious fresh dates and sipping on their wonderful coffee.
    Other highlights of the day was the beautiful opera house built and gifted by the old Sultan. We went to the market with of course a very exotic array of stuff so have bought my been to Oman pashmina ( from India) We saw the Sultans 2 ships berthed at the harbour and ended the trip in a great Omani Cafe having a lunch of lamb biryani. We were thankful for the hotel in the afternoon and out of the heat.
    We ate in at the hotel for dinner and realised after we had ordered that there was no alcohol allowed which certainly didn't hurt us. The previous night we had had cocktails at an amazing hotel Chedi on the shores of the Arabian sea watching the sun set. The joy of it all was slightly diminished by the costs of the drinks. $25.00 for a beer! For the first time ever I had a mock tail!
    We leave today for Paris and are hoping to catch most of the rugby game. Let's hope it's not quite as hot as here but it's been a great stop over and not a place on your normal radar. The people seem to be gracious gentle and friendly.
    Go the All Blacks... hopefully they won't be gracious and gentle!    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    211

    More photos

    10 september 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär

    Beautiful Bordeaux

    13 september 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We arrived in Bordeaux yesterday and it seemed a nice change from Paris and not quite as hot!
    The trip to get to Bordeaux was not for the faint hearted as we had to navigate the metro at peak hour in Paris and then try and understand the workings of the Montparnasse train station..a major challenge and began to wish I had concentrated more in my french classes at school as not a word of English to be seen. We caught the fast train down to Bordeaux and it only took 2 hours so it was a very relaxing ride.
    We had done the day before in Paris a 4 hour cycle ride through the so called off the beaten tracks part of Paris but it didn't always seem that off the beaten track and we decided our bikes were quite wobbly..of course nothing to do with the riders. We did see some amazing places including a beautiful park Place des Vosges where Victor Hugo lived. We wobbled our way over the Seine and biked through the Botanic gardens. It is design week in Paris so masses of beautiful design and antique stalls. The heat was intense and cold beers were very much appreciated. The poor Notre Dame is still under repair and will not be ready for the Olympics but all the usual sites looked magnificent even in a heat wave. All the french are so gracious when they know we are kiwis and half apologise for beating us. You certainly know the RWC is on and the Irish nearly drank Bordeaux out of beer last weekend. By chance we banged into Sam Whitelocks parents in Montparnasse station so had a coffee with them and tried not to talk too much about the rugby!
    Today we went on a great trip out to St Emilion with a young french guide, gorgeous accent, twinkly blue eyes and red curls with an incredible knowledge of wine. The town of St Emilion is so old and so pretty and like Bordeaux ,all the buildings are made of sandstone. The wine harvest is to start in 3 days and we had a wine tasting of course! An acre of land in St Emilion costs approx 1 million euro so there were no life style blocks out there just rows and rows of grapes.
    So tomorrow we head to St Jean Pied de Port and start the walk on Thursday, walking 24 km with a climb of 1500 metres so no doubt the next blog will be from a very tired walker with 3 very tired walking companions.
    We have loved our time in France even if tres expensive and hot but so so chiq and stylish.
    Photos of the Chateau Montlabert where we went through the winery. Even the cellar was designed by an award winning architect and some of the walls were made of cork. Brian who loves Cathedrals saw his first one inside today at St Emilion
    Due to user malfunction and wonky wifi more photos coming separately!    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär

    St Jean Pied de Paul to Roncesvalles

    14 september 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    So today was our first day actually walking the Camino.
    26 km with a climb of 1400 meters. It was tough hot and amazing! Easy to say that when we now have had a couple of hours to rest in our quaint hotel with a rose and beer under our belts! We were up at 6am and breakfast at 630 consisting of a baguette jam and a coffee. Hard case proprietor who thought we all crazy and wished us luck as he crossed himself!
    It was dark and cool when we we set off and was a steady and steep climb. But in the words of our Jack you just have to walk at your own medium pace! You just climb into the mist with the noise of cow bells and sheep bells and the odd horse! It reminded me of the land around Wanaka where they filmed Lord of the Rings. The border between France and Spain that we walked through is signified by a cattlestop and an overflowing rubbish bin!
    Onward we slogged meeting all sorts of interesting walkers, a whole contingent of Irish from Galway, a lovely Sth Korean man who wanted a photo of Brian and self! An American couple who now live in Equador in a fishing village and a hard case Welshman who was worried he wouldn't get a beer at the monastery he was staying in! Lots of baby boomers walking and although we got in at 3 pm some were still walking in at 6pm! Beautiful day here and off soon for a pilgrim dinner. So so pleased we have the first day under our belt and in the words of Ed we knocked the bastard off! Buen Camino    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    311

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    15 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After a fun pilgrim dinner last night with copious spanish wine and feeling very pleased with ourselves to have day 1 under our belt, we were up early for our pilgrim breakfast. As someone who loves muesli yoghurt and fruit in the morning it's a bit hard to adjust to big chunks of bread, croissants and ham and cheese. The coffee is pretty good though.
    We walked 21 km today and was not nearly as tough as yesterday. We walked through countryside with cows horses and even a couple of donkeys. We passed the hotel where Earnest Hemmingway stayed probably writing his morbid book on the Spanish Civil War! It's fun to walk through little villages all offering food and drinks to the pilgrims. We all felt our calf muscles today and although we walked through pretty beech and pine forests the descent into Zubiri was pretty slippery on grey slatey rock. Thankgoodness we have poles as I surely would have been a over k.
    As I write this I can hear cow bells ringing in the distance and a little stream flowing outside our window. For $60.00 per couple we have just had a 3 course meal and a bottle of red wine so we at the late time of 8 pm are heading to bed. We continue to meet interesting people as we walk along and talk for awhile then they or we move on. It's never boring!
    Tomorrow we walk to Pamplona.
    Buenos noches    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär

    Zubiri to Pamplona

    16 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    So I awoke to this morning with my dearly beloved slapping himself and hearing the words of " take this you fkn bastards! I thought oh dear this is a very aggressive way to start a new day on the Camino but it turned our he had been attacked by the Zubiri mossies all night and had had the worst night ever with no sleep. Anyway we started our walk in the semi dark and climbed out of Zubiri with bells ringing , horses grazing and the Arga river running beside us. We could have been walking up the Hinemaia river.
    However it's day 3 and our bodies were starting to feel a little weary. I got my first blister at the base of a toenail but my fellow pilgrims were doing OK. Main problem was tight calf muscles
    Anyway the walk of 21 km proceeded in pretty warm conditions. We walked 5 km before we had breakfast and the hard case cafe owner wanted to know when he heard we were kiwis how the ABs were going...this is in Spain! We then met a German couple whose son didn't suit the "" German schooling "so sent him off to Otaki college in NZ. He loved meeting us, especially when we said we had a house at Waikanae.
    So on and on we walked the 21 km but it seemed a long way walking into Pamplona especially going through the poorer areas but then the old walls of Pamplona appeared and we walked through into the buzzy old city part and was amazing. It's Saturday night here and the town is humming. Have had an amazing meal of tapas in a bar hanging with parma hams.
    We will certainly sleep well tonight and thankfully have a rest day tomorrow.    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    Iruna cafe

    Rest day in Pamplona

    17 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    It was wonderful this morning to wake up knowing we could have a lie in and rest our slightly tired legs even though they have a long way to go!
    We had a late breakfast , pastries cafe con leche and a freshly squeezed orange juice which they do beautifully over here. Then it was find a laundromat and let the men set to work. Lee took over the laundry duties where he was making new friends in the laundromat as you do.
    Jane Brian and I walked the old walls and city of Pamplona , visited a slightly strange art exhibition and enjoyed a quiet Sunday morning strolling through the parks and streets .
    We all then went to a famous Pamplona cafe Iruna where Earnest Hemmingway wrote his books and its a totally beautiful cafe. We decided to splurge out on a $50.00 per person 3 course meal with 2 bottles of Spanish wine. So after a long lunch enjoying the food wine and ambience it was decided we had to find an Irish bar to watch the Aus Fiji game. After walking for 30 minutes we finally found the bar to discover that they would not be playing the rugby! Big sighs all round but managed to get back to the hotel to find a bar just along and where Brian persuaded the bar men to change the channel from Football to rugby!
    What a game and in the end most of the bar were watching it with us!
    Now it's early bed with a 25 km walk tomorrow and quite a climb ahead. All in happy spirits. Buen camino    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    11

    Pamplona to Puenta La Reina

    18 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today we were once again up early and setting out of Pamplona at 730am in the semi dark. It was a great walk out passing parklands and the grounds of Naverra University. Pamplona waterblast and sweep their streets every morning so a nice time to walk!
    Once we had got out into countryside it was a long uphill walk with a nice cool breeze to ease the climb. We had walked about 6.1 km
    before having a much needed coffee and something to eat!
    We carried on climbing until we reached the top named Alto del Pardon. It has huge wind turbines and a row of wrought iron ancient pilgrims looking quite spectacular with views of the valleys all round.
    The farm land below was all ploughed up and sown with grass seed and big piles of freshly harvested hay. Not one stock unit to be seen. The land is clay and rock.
    After the joy of getting to the top..altitude 780 metres we then had the not so joyous descent on rocky steep paths. Again our walking poles were a godsend.
    On we walked with not much protection from sun and through a couple of sleepy little towns where the locals were probably looking out their window thinking silly fools walking in the heat of the day!
    We found a great bar 5 km before our destination and lovely to be in the shade having a cold beer but it did make the last 5 km a long way home.
    Puenta LA Reina is a cute medieval town famous for its Roman bridge. The hotel is also quaint and the restaurant looks to be serving great food so will be enjoying that soon. We keep seeing the same pilgrims and we haven't mentioned the rugby to the Aussie couple. Brian has just been down at the bar with the Welsh man comparing notes. A couple of us pilgrims are sporting blisters but we just taking 1 day at a time. I had to don the socks and sandal look for part of the walk today! We will surely sleep well tonight    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    12

    Puenta la Reina to Estella

    19 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After a great dinner last night at the very busy restaurant below where we were staying we headed to bed ready for another early start. For dinner I had the lamb mid loin chops as did Lee and they were so delicious. Our favourite meal to date!
    We set off early this morning to a blue bird day full of energy (sort of!) and the thrill of another new day not knowing where we would be going. Getting our feet prepared for a long day of walking is quite a rigmarole. First it's rubbing them with vicks vaporub,then applying any blister plasters or toe gel protection and then the socks and shoes. Thankgoodness we have shoes a size bigger then normal as there is a lot of foot to fit in!
    The day was the hottest to date but we set off 730am in the cool of the day and had quite an uphill climb to get the heart going. Beautiful though with old roman bridges,grape vines laden with grapes,olive trees laden with olives and rolling hills with the odd castle on top.
    The funny thing is that all the dear villages you are aiming for to get refreshments are always up on top of a bloody steep hill! I guess the Romans needed to sit high up to guard against the enemy. They were not thinking of us baby boomers walking the Camino needing a drink. The drink we are loving is the freshly squeezed orange. Almost beats 🍷.
    So again up hill and down dale we walked 21km and in the heat. We passed some amazing vege gardens and note the size of the pumpkins! Finally we got into Estella at about 230 pm. Estella is such a pretty city with the river running through,beautiful old buildings and a wonderful centre square where we dined. The little children all playing in the square with old and young promenading and the church bells ringing. So warm and a beautiful meal and wine to boot. We even had Lee reciting Sam Hunt poetry so we were not feeling too homesick!
    Home now and tired but great to tick another day off. Today I saw on my watch I had done 33000 steps. Time for bed.
    Love all your messages and feel like you are with us all the way! Buenos noches    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    1

    Estella to Los Arcos

    20 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This may be a short blog as the internet here is very dodgy and I am feeling very tired. Another blue bird day which is another way of saying a very hot day!
    Our first stop along the way was a fountain that provides free red wine for all the pilgrims. Although it was 8 am we had to try it out. Maybe not what you would order for the table but ok and of course free!
    Then we had a great walk through Holly oak tree forests, almond trees and wineries. Along the way we were eating almonds, beautiful sweet grapes and blackberries which were not quite up to the standard of Hatepe but pretty good.
    We stopped in yet another pretty village for cafe con leche and then onwards we trekked! It was a long last 8km with no shade from the relentless Spanish sun and no cafes to stop at.
    Eventually after long and winding roads we reached Los Arcos which is very small with a beautiful Church ( of course) . We staying in a plain hotel with dodgy wifi and a bossy receptionist but that is the Spanish way.
    We met up again with our gorgeous piligrinnos from Wexford. 2 friends who are dairy farmers from Wexford farming 80 cows. One of them David and his wife caught the bus today instead of walking and Lee quipped back to them"that is why the Irish won't win the World cup." But they are good craic.
    We are now back from dinner with again a very bossy waitress but at least she could have a laugh. Tomorrow is a 28 km walk..hope it's not as hot!    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    1
    1

    Los Arcos to Logrona

    21 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We were up early this morning to start off a big day of 28.5 km. After a terrible sleep I was happy to be up at 545 am and start walking 630 am with head torches on . The first part of the walk we were going at a great pace bur suddenly realised we were being eaten alive by mossies so although the sun was rising over the hills we could hardly stop to photograph due to mossie invasion on steroids. It was beautiful rolling countryside and we got to Sansol supposedly a pretty wee place but a mossie retreat +++. Not a long stop there as we came across another pretty town with super good coffee and the most beautifully baked fresh bread filled with omelets and tomate! Alot of the cafe employees have obviously been to a non charm academy of hospitality where you get grunted at and almost feel they are over us pilgrims making their days far too busy. Bur as long as the coffee is great we don't care.
    So on we went with some steep climbs but pretty countryside and new sown grass. Finally we came to Viana a beaut city with an old church and very medieval. We had an amazing lunch of garlic mushrooms on bread.
    So totally refreshed we set off for the last 11km.
    Luckily the rain had started to fall lightly which was far more pleasant then the relentless sun of yesterday. ⁸ So on and onand on we walked through the1 rioja wineries eating bunches of grapes.on the way. Logrona loomed in the distance but as usual the last few kilometers went on forever. Finally walking through the beautiful city of Logrona we found our comfortable hostel! The taking off of shoes at the end of the day and hopping in the shower is pure bliss!
    Who knew but there is a wine festival and the town is heaving. Unfortunately as responsible pilgrims ;we are not dancing.the night away but after a few drinks of the local rioja wine and tapas we are tucked up in bed. We have a 29 km walk ahead tomorrow so good sence prevailed
    . No blisters yet but.feet very sore at end.of day.
    It's amazing to think.that on the this walk all we focus on is our feet our muscles and where the next.good toilet and coffee will be??.
    Their is a lot of partying out so hope we get a good night's sleep    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär

    Logrono to Najera

    22 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After a very lively noisy night outside our windows we blearily got up and set off again in the dark for another long long day of walking. People of Logrono were still partying from all the wine festival celebrations and the street cleaners were out water blasting the streets.
    It seemed quite a mission to get out of the city but it is a very pretty city , with a big river and is the capital of LA Rioja . It is a big university town, hence the feeling of being in party central!
    We finally found our way out of the city and it was pleasantly cool. We walked through more wineries helping ourselves to the bunches of grapes as hasn't had breakfast. After about 12km we walked into Navarette high on a hill (of course) . The boys had hearty bacon and eggs and us girls had delicious croissants which we felt we thoroughly deserved. We all felt a bit weary today so we just plodded along clicking off the kilometers.
    As you walk you do meet different people and today was Pamela from Indiana wearing a short skirt with huge strong legs! Lots of interesting chat with her, then a young Sth Korean boy who had terrible blisters so gave out advice on that problem. It's amazing how simple life becomes on the Camino, Rather then worrying about the leaders debate or the rugby world cup we are focusing on where the next cafe and toilet will be and what the state of our feet are. I must say I am very proud of my bunion afflicted feet! They do the job and none of our 8 feet have blisters!
    So on and on we walked with a headwind but at least it was cooling. They were harvesting the vineyards by hand and so lots of activity. We lay beside a vinyard and rested for awhile having nuts and lollies for lunch plus more grapes!
    Finally after a long hard slog through some not so pretty scenery we walked into Najerra with a quaint old town section where we are staying and it's so lovely and quiet! As we sat at a bar having a beer on arrival, Jane and I were laughing at our appearances of the delightful socks and sandal look ,but did we really care after walking 29 km ( 44,000 steps) , not at all and boy the beer tasted good! Off out soon to dine by the river and feeling rather hungry.
    I hope the awful weather in the South stops and the Warriors win! The rioja wine awaits!    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    71

    Najera to Santo Domingo

    23 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was a 21.3 km walk which we were pleased to be doing after the previous 2 long days.
    Before I begin the account of today's walk I will describe our dinner out last night.
    So all 4 of us are pretty tired but we staying in a gorgeous wee hotel/ airbnb . We get the recommendation of a nice restaurant catering for pilgrims, meaning it opens at 7 pm and not the normal Spanish time of 8 to 9 pm.
    For some reason the boys left Jane and I outside the restaurant waiting for it to open and along came a Frenchman called Alan and a young Texan called Barrett so as nice friendly pilgrims that we are , we invited them to dine with us. So our husbands arrived back to find 2 strange men sitting with us. It didn't take long for Jane and I to realise we may have made a mistake! As Lee ( who is sporting a slightly Donald Sutherland look!) commented later that all he was wanting was a quiet meal but instead he had a fog horn in his ear. The fog horn was Barrett who we decided was incredibly bright but a bit off this planet and there was nothing Barrett hadn't done including been a counter intelligence spy and currently a day time trader of options. So as he got louder and Lee's face grew more pained we were also coping with Alan talking to us in french/ English and laughing at his own stories of which we understood very little. What had happened to our quiet genteel meal after a long hike. In the end I asked Barrett to use his inside voice!
    So this morning we set off after a yum breakfast of breads pastrami cheese and coffee with a spring in our step knowing it wasn't to be such a long day. The sun was rising over yet more grape vines and recently ploughed red earth with the path rolling out before us.
    We had coffee in a cute village Azofra and caught up with different pilgrims we have met. On we walked and after a long hill climb there was a stall selling drinks and fresh fruit but then along came a pilgrim with a ukulele. This was too much for Brian so out came five foot two , much to the delight of our fellow walkers, but the funniest thing was who came along to join the fun but Barrett! You will see him in the video below wearing a kilt!
    On we walked Lee making sure Barrett was far ahead and we came upon the most luxurious golf club in a desolate place with a great cafe. Beers were drunk and lovely platters of sardines and olives were eaten and the local chorizo sausages.
    Finally we arrived at Santo Domingo another delightful Spanish village.
    It's been a great day and now we have the problem of trying to find coverage of the Sth Africa Irish game.
    Sorry this blog has been a tad long. Santo Domingo was the patron saint of civil engineering!    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
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    2

    Santo Domingo to Belorado

    23 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was a very tiring day especially for our male walking companions. Maybe it was to do with the excitement of finally finding a bar last night in Santo Domingo that would play the SA v Ireland game! After a very tasty meal at the hotel we were staying at and meeting a SA born kiwi named Anne, we all except sensible Jane headed off to watch the rugby. I think the boys felt it necessary to buy rounds of drinks so the rugby stayed on! So after an exciting game we headed home and were up at 7am to start the 22.4 km walk. Surprisingly Lee and Brian were in cheerful spirits and Lee even sang Ireland's national anthem as we headed out. Maybe the Irish Baileys was still cursing through his veins!
    Today's walk in the cool morning air was quite stunning with "fields of gold" coming to mind. The rows of sun flowers stood in rows with their sad faces waiting to be harvested. The ? wheat fields have been ploughed and the paths were dry and dusty. Hot air balloons were floating nearby so it was all quite idyllic. BUT..we had thought we would have breakfast after 7 km which was very much needed but today is Sunday and hardly anything is open. On we walked through small sleepy villages with the occasional cat or dog to greet us. When I say small , imagine Mangaweka with a Spanish facade. We did share a banana some nuts and jubes for brekky. A feast for Kings!
    We walked through the border from Naverra into Castille so no more grapes to feast on.
    The 2nd half of the walk was much plainer and a bit of walking beside the highway with no shade and it was hot! Finally 5 km before we reached Belorado we found a cafe so it was the freshly squeezed orange juice and empanadas. It tasted so good.
    The next 5 km continued to be hot and dry but you have to imagine those ancient pilgrims in their sack tunics rope sandals and bearing crosses on their backs. No hot showers and wifi for them back in the day!
    Once again we met and talked with different people on the way so the kilometers just tick over.
    Belorado is a pretty wee town and famous for ancient cave dwellings up behind the town. I think it will be an early night.    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    2

    Belorado to San Juan de Ortago

    25 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Today was an early start for our 24 km walk . We left at 630 am in the dark and it was quite chilly. ( Brian loves it cold). We walked as day was breaking passing again fields of spent sunflowers but the sun was rising behind us and we were all feeling fresher then yesterday morning! After about 5 km we came across a cafe for a much needed coffee and the waitress had also been to the Spanish no charm school. However it was good to eat some breakfast..beautiful baguettes with pastrami and tomatoes and then Brian couldn't resist the sugar donuts!
    We carried on in the cool morning air but it was starting to warm up and luckily today there was lots of shade until near the end. We passed through a couple of pretty villages, one which had a beautiful old well that was meant to take all your tiredness away! We were tempted but it was pretty chilly.
    We stopped at Villa Franca for lunch ( pastries filled with chocolate or custard) So although we must be burning some calories with all the walking we are certainly consuming some!
    After leaving Villa Franca we started the ascent of Montes de Oca which is a climb of 200 metres over 3 km and it was hot! Maybe those pastries weren't a great idea. At the top of Montes de Oca there is a monument dedicated to the victims of a massacre during the civil war. The inscription reads " Their death wasn't in vain, their execution was"
    On we walked through forests of oak and pine and was great to be in the shade. The forest is meant to have wild boar, deer, badgers and wolves but luckily it was too hot for them to be out and about. We had a couple of stops in the shade and a lady had a stall with loud Spanish music playing.
    It's always the last 3 or 4 km that are the killers and by then the sun is hot and the shade had gone.
    Finally we got to San Juan which is a tiny wee village but our accommodation is great with even a clothes line! And guess who is in town, Barrett the fog horn. Lee is thrilled.
    We are all in good spirits, still no injury or blisters although the best part of the day is taking your shoes off.
    Love all your messages and it's starting to seem a long time since we left NZ. .    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär

    San Juan to Burgos

    26 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    A later post tonight as we have hit the city lights of Burgos. What a contrast to San Juan where the only noises were roosters and cow bells!
    I must say though that last night we had the best meal. Black pudding, pork loin chops and salad. All for about 35 per person that included 2 bottles of red wine. Burgos region is famous for black pudding made from pigs blood! Best we don't know.
    So we had a very early night and then up early and on the road by 645 am with head torches on. We walked about 5 km and came to a cafe in Ages, tiny village and had our coffee and croissant fix.
    On we walked with the sun rising and saw our first lot of sheep in ages. Even heard bird song which has been a rare sound.
    Climbed a pretty steep hill and walked through forests but the the fun part of the walk was over! After another stop at a roadsidecafe we walked and walked along roads and crossed major highways until we walked into the industrial area of Burgos.
    We tried to find the alternative route via a river but alas it was never found!
    It was hot and I guess we were getting hangry but on we trudged. I guess it was a good reminder to us that Spain is not just about cute little villages and pilgrim walks!
    We did pass on our way the site of some of the first human relics found at Atapuerca and is now a world heritage site.
    Finally we arrived at our destination but the hostel didn't open until 4 pm so what were 4 tired pilgrims to do but have a long Spanish lunch under the shade of plane trees.
    Burgos is such a contrast to the quiet villages we have been staying at and tonight it was warm and so many out and about. We witnessed the Burgos rugby club being cheered on in the square for winning the Spanish rugby championship and apparently 2 kiwis are in the team
    The women here seem very stylie and our rather crumpled pilgrim clothes seemed a bit out of place.
    Rest day tomorrow and our legs need it so we will do relaxing sight seeing and laundry! 26 km walked today
    Buenos noches    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    2
    2

    Burgos rest day

    27 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    How nice was it this morning to not have to wake early and then prepare our feet for the day of reckoning when we put our shoes on!
    Instead it was finding a laundromat which happened to be right beside a cafe and all was well.
    We spent the morning walking around Burgos with our tired legs but lots to see and a few necessary items bought.
    Then we visited the Cathedral here in all its Gothic magnificent . Cathedral de Santa Maria. It's almost too amazing to describe but just incredibly beautiful and so so old.
    After our cultural and religious experience we retired to our rooms for a siesta.
    Out later into the amazing buzz of Burgos ( considering it was a Wednesday night)we enjoyed drinks in the warm evening air and had one of our best and most expensive meals to date. Black pudding for me as a starter and then a partridge salad. Lee was in 7th heaven as he had his new find of the Camino.. garlic soup which Brian also enjoyed and then beautiful tiny lamb chops. All were happy and to bed we go.    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    131122

    Burgos to Hornillos de Camino

    28 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Today we were up early and left Burgos in the dark at 7 am. I had a terrible night's sleep so it all seemed a bit of an effort and my legs and feet seem to take on a life of their own! It didn't take long though for the cool morning air to wake me up and it was a much prettier exit from Burgos then the entrance. We passed the beautiful Cathedral and then on past the University and leafy suburbs
    Unfortunately we had thought we would find a cafe in the outer suburbs of Burgos for breakfast but that was not meant to be. Finally after 11km of walking we came to Tardajos where the coffee was good and the croissants were even better. All was well with the world!
    We carried on and met a young english chap carrying a gnome on the walk. We wished him luck. It's tough enough with a pack on your back. We think we have seen the last of Barrett who biked gaily past us in his kilt so we were slightly sad to wave farewell.
    After passing through another village we came across a dear wee church where we popped out heads into. Inside were 2 nuns who were blessing everyone and gave us tiny St Christopher pendants. It was all quite a surprise.
    On we walked with blue blue skies and freshly harvested cereal crops with windmills topping the hills and then a gradual long climb to the official beginning of the Meseta. The Meseta is the high central plateau in Spain and the soil is poor and the landscape is barren but there is something quite grand about the expansive views you get and the big sky. There is not much shade but luckily there was a breeze.
    At about 1.30pm we walked into the one street town and all we can hear is the odd chime of the church bells and the usual rooster crowing.
    Our room is old fashioned but spacious which is a luxury. There are quite a few pilgrims staying here with a very homely bar and restaurant. Enclosed is a photo of the swimming pool which is looking a tad green.
    We have had a wonderful siesta and now soon it will be time for a quiet drink and a pilgrims dinner.
    I must say it's nice to be back in a quiet villages and enjoy the peace of a little place. Buen camino    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    1
    11

    Castrojeriz to Fromista

    29 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Unfortunately we were not successful in locating a bar last night that was going to play the rugby, in fact I don't think much happens in Castrojeriz. However we did have a great pilgrim dinner and they were serving garlic soup so the boys were very happy as photo will show. Note the glasses our darling waiter is wearing! We got back to our wonderful roomy bedrooms and listened to the rugby on the RWC app which was pretty good and much healthier than propping up a bar. Great win so went to sleep happy.
    We got up at 530 and were on the road by 6.15 knowing the day was going to be hot. The mornings as usual was just beautiful with a nearly full moon lighting up the way although we did need our torches. We had quite a climb of 150 metres ascent but luckily it was nice and cool. When we got to the top the views of the surrounding valleys were stunning with the moon still up and the sun rising in the east. One thing we miss is the dawn chorus and all we heard was one lonely crow.
    Down we trekked into a valley leading us to Fromista. We crossed over a beautiful old bridge with mist coming off the river and the sun rising behind us. By the time we had walked 11 km with not much food inside us we were desperately hoping a cafe would be open and luckily Brian found a bar/ cafe . It was full of the local hombres who were enjoying some sort of liqueur drink. This was at 10 am but it was a Saturday and who are we to judge!
    We rested awhile over coffees and big bread rolls of pastrami and cheese, called bocadillos. That totally revived us so on we went for 14 more km with the day getting hotter and hotter. We passed fields of fresh cut hay( love the smell of that) and dying sunflowers. It was the first irrigation we had seen so there was a bit of greenery and a few old castle ruins. Not unsimiliar to walking through Central Otago minus the sunflowers.
    5 km from Fromista we came across another village and nothing was happening here at all . It was like walking into one of those deserted towns in a western. What we wouldn't have done for a cold drink there!
    On we walked, although my walk becomes a plod after about 20 km. Luckily we walked along a canal and even had some trees to give a bit of shade. We do have lots of chats as we walk but usually that has tapered off in the last few km! I walked and talked for a few km with Gail from North Carolina who dined with us last night and was a great person to while away a few km with.
    Finally in the heat of the midday sun we arrived at Fromista with a declining population of 840 and for a Spanish village on a Saturday it seems quite lively.
    Our hotel is quaint and our bedroom overlooks the stunning Iglesias de Martin X1 C for which Fromista is famous for. But as beautiful as the sight of this amazing church was, a more appealing view was that of the bar serving cold beers. It too had lots of locals lazily sipping the afternoon away.
    Now it's siesta time before we venture out to explore ,but as it's 30 outside it won't be for awhile.
    Just a note on the team of eight ( our feet) . None of our feet have let the team down to date and no blisters so we are very pleased as we come across so many pilgrims in terrible distress that can hardly walk, often young ones but no,
    our team are soldiering on. Long may it last.
    Siesta time    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär

    Hornillos to Castroheriz

    30 september 2023, England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Before I begin describing today's adventure I have to tell you about a very special dinner we had last night. Hornillos has a population of 20 so we had no expectations of a late night nor did we want one. But Jane ever our intrepid traveller suggested a cafe up the road for dinner that was meant to be good. We decided that rather then dine in ,where the flies were tedious we would venture out for a pilgrims dinner. We walk into the pretty small cafe and we saw the sign saying " live music". Hmmm I wondered, how is this going to be with a big walk ahead of us tomorrow! The musicians prooved to be just amazing and one in particular singing opera as a tenor. We had 2 hours of them singing ( videos uploaded) but they don't do justice to what a special night it was. Of course Brian tried to talk them into coming to sing at the Hatepe concert. As they spoke no english and B speaks no Spanish an arrangement was not made! We walked home all on a high with the full moon shining thinking this Camino adventure is quite special.
    Today we made our own breakfast of poached eggs and delicious tomatoes and set off again to a beautiful morning.
    We had 20 km today which is a good distance . It was a good constant climb up onto the Meseta plains with its expansive views of rolling hills , windmills and dusty tracks. I walked and talked for awhile with a beautiful black woman from Kenya who was using a beautiful ivory and wooden stick. She told me that her stick contained voodoo magic from her grandmother and that it would protect her!
    After 11 km we found a cute wee village for our normal coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice. There was even fresh green grass at the cafe.
    By then ( about 11am) the day was getting hot but on we walked until was came to an amazing old ruin where we dined on dates and almonds and a banana but so nice to sit in the shade. The ruins were the monastery of San Anton where back in the day they treated people with ergotism A disease from a fungi in rye bread. The treatment often was amputation of extremities! Not sure what the survival rate was!
    Finally another 3 km on we plodded into Castrojeriz (population of 500) feeling very hot and it wasn't long before we were settled at the bar with a cold beer that made the day all worthwhile. We are now having siesta time and staying in a quaint hotel with a bath! Sheer bliss.
    The big thing now on the boys minds is where can we see the AB game and I fear we may have no luck but no doubt they will have fun trying to explain what they want!
    Go the All Blacks    Läs mer

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoResenär
    11115

    Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes

    1 oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Today we decided to have breakfast at our hotel at 730 am as we were only walking 19 km but knew it was going to be another very hot day. After a delicious breakfast and the first time I could have cereal ( cornflakes!) we set off again but this time in daylight. The moon was still out and once again a chilly start to the day. The feet were all good and there was much chat as we walked the first 11km but much of it was a tree lined path alongside a river( not like the rivers we know, more a sludgy canal) We did stop in at one beautiful church along the way and even if not religious they are a haven to sit in and get out of the sun.
    Finally we came to a cute little village which is home to the magnificent Templar church of Santa Maria built in the 13 th C. Again a cool haven to sit in with beautiful music playing!
    Over the road at the cafe we enjoyed pizzas and coffee. Interestingly enough our American friend and another pilgrim were complaining about the bees hovering over their food but they were actually wasps. Do they not have wasps in Nth Carolina?
    By now the day was getting hot and we still had 5 km to go with no shade so it was basically, just get on with it. Ear plugs in, audio music and books on we kept walking along side a road but expansive views and big blue skies with the sun beating down.
    I have taken a video a km out . Luckily there was a bit of a breeze so finally about 1 pm we entered Carrion de Los Condes which is a really pretty town and even had a great sports shop. Carrion has quite a mediaeval feel and was the home of 14 pilgrim hospitals. At its height it had a population of 10 thousand but now is only 2000 and declining. It seems most of these towns have declining populations!
    A few items were purchased and we banged into a few of our pilgrim family two being the Australian father and son who are staying in a monastery. The father last time we saw him had terrible blisters and was searching for hikers wool. We did give him some but then he found a paddock of sheep so went in and plucked wool off the fence for his blisters! We couldn't help but mention the rugby but he is only interested in AFL . Jane and I then met up again with a lovely young Mexican who carries an umbrella and a shopping bag as he hikes ( photo enclosed) .
    Finally we arrived at our hotel which is 1 star but very comfortable. Before we do anything we have a cold beer so cold beers it was and even better was a plate of delicious black pudding. There we met up again with a Virginian named Bill who had a lot to chat about having lived in Botswana and Nigeria many years working for the Peace Corps and was married in Botswana ( like the Cockrells)
    Anyway the beer was cold and we enjoyed listening and when Bill told us about meeting his wife across a crowded room, Lee and Brian proceeded to sing him Some enchanted evening from Sth Pacific. Ok boys time for a siesta!
    Tomorrow is going to be a 27 km walk with little or no shade so we will set off early as it's going to be another hot hot day.    Läs mer

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