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Camino

September - October 2023
A 52-day adventure by Sarah Read more
  • 44footprints
  • 5countries
  • 52days
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  • TravelerCamino
    Day 14

    Rest day in Pamplona

    September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    It was wonderful this morning to wake up knowing we could have a lie in and rest our slightly tired legs even though they have a long way to go!
    We had a late breakfast , pastries cafe con leche and a freshly squeezed orange juice which they do beautifully over here. Then it was find a laundromat and let the men set to work. Lee took over the laundry duties where he was making new friends in the laundromat as you do.
    Jane Brian and I walked the old walls and city of Pamplona , visited a slightly strange art exhibition and enjoyed a quiet Sunday morning strolling through the parks and streets .
    We all then went to a famous Pamplona cafe Iruna where Earnest Hemmingway wrote his books and its a totally beautiful cafe. We decided to splurge out on a $50.00 per person 3 course meal with 2 bottles of Spanish wine. So after a long lunch enjoying the food wine and ambience it was decided we had to find an Irish bar to watch the Aus Fiji game. After walking for 30 minutes we finally found the bar to discover that they would not be playing the rugby! Big sighs all round but managed to get back to the hotel to find a bar just along and where Brian persuaded the bar men to change the channel from Football to rugby!
    What a game and in the end most of the bar were watching it with us!
    Now it's early bed with a 25 km walk tomorrow and quite a climb ahead. All in happy spirits. Buen camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    11
    Day 15

    Pamplona to Puenta La Reina

    September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today we were once again up early and setting out of Pamplona at 730am in the semi dark. It was a great walk out passing parklands and the grounds of Naverra University. Pamplona waterblast and sweep their streets every morning so a nice time to walk!
    Once we had got out into countryside it was a long uphill walk with a nice cool breeze to ease the climb. We had walked about 6.1 km
    before having a much needed coffee and something to eat!
    We carried on climbing until we reached the top named Alto del Pardon. It has huge wind turbines and a row of wrought iron ancient pilgrims looking quite spectacular with views of the valleys all round.
    The farm land below was all ploughed up and sown with grass seed and big piles of freshly harvested hay. Not one stock unit to be seen. The land is clay and rock.
    After the joy of getting to the top..altitude 780 metres we then had the not so joyous descent on rocky steep paths. Again our walking poles were a godsend.
    On we walked with not much protection from sun and through a couple of sleepy little towns where the locals were probably looking out their window thinking silly fools walking in the heat of the day!
    We found a great bar 5 km before our destination and lovely to be in the shade having a cold beer but it did make the last 5 km a long way home.
    Puenta LA Reina is a cute medieval town famous for its Roman bridge. The hotel is also quaint and the restaurant looks to be serving great food so will be enjoying that soon. We keep seeing the same pilgrims and we haven't mentioned the rugby to the Aussie couple. Brian has just been down at the bar with the Welsh man comparing notes. A couple of us pilgrims are sporting blisters but we just taking 1 day at a time. I had to don the socks and sandal look for part of the walk today! We will surely sleep well tonight    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    12
    Day 16

    Puenta la Reina to Estella

    September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After a great dinner last night at the very busy restaurant below where we were staying we headed to bed ready for another early start. For dinner I had the lamb mid loin chops as did Lee and they were so delicious. Our favourite meal to date!
    We set off early this morning to a blue bird day full of energy (sort of!) and the thrill of another new day not knowing where we would be going. Getting our feet prepared for a long day of walking is quite a rigmarole. First it's rubbing them with vicks vaporub,then applying any blister plasters or toe gel protection and then the socks and shoes. Thankgoodness we have shoes a size bigger then normal as there is a lot of foot to fit in!
    The day was the hottest to date but we set off 730am in the cool of the day and had quite an uphill climb to get the heart going. Beautiful though with old roman bridges,grape vines laden with grapes,olive trees laden with olives and rolling hills with the odd castle on top.
    The funny thing is that all the dear villages you are aiming for to get refreshments are always up on top of a bloody steep hill! I guess the Romans needed to sit high up to guard against the enemy. They were not thinking of us baby boomers walking the Camino needing a drink. The drink we are loving is the freshly squeezed orange. Almost beats 🍷.
    So again up hill and down dale we walked 21km and in the heat. We passed some amazing vege gardens and note the size of the pumpkins! Finally we got into Estella at about 230 pm. Estella is such a pretty city with the river running through,beautiful old buildings and a wonderful centre square where we dined. The little children all playing in the square with old and young promenading and the church bells ringing. So warm and a beautiful meal and wine to boot. We even had Lee reciting Sam Hunt poetry so we were not feeling too homesick!
    Home now and tired but great to tick another day off. Today I saw on my watch I had done 33000 steps. Time for bed.
    Love all your messages and feel like you are with us all the way! Buenos noches    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    1
    Day 17

    Estella to Los Arcos

    September 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This may be a short blog as the internet here is very dodgy and I am feeling very tired. Another blue bird day which is another way of saying a very hot day!
    Our first stop along the way was a fountain that provides free red wine for all the pilgrims. Although it was 8 am we had to try it out. Maybe not what you would order for the table but ok and of course free!
    Then we had a great walk through Holly oak tree forests, almond trees and wineries. Along the way we were eating almonds, beautiful sweet grapes and blackberries which were not quite up to the standard of Hatepe but pretty good.
    We stopped in yet another pretty village for cafe con leche and then onwards we trekked! It was a long last 8km with no shade from the relentless Spanish sun and no cafes to stop at.
    Eventually after long and winding roads we reached Los Arcos which is very small with a beautiful Church ( of course) . We staying in a plain hotel with dodgy wifi and a bossy receptionist but that is the Spanish way.
    We met up again with our gorgeous piligrinnos from Wexford. 2 friends who are dairy farmers from Wexford farming 80 cows. One of them David and his wife caught the bus today instead of walking and Lee quipped back to them"that is why the Irish won't win the World cup." But they are good craic.
    We are now back from dinner with again a very bossy waitress but at least she could have a laugh. Tomorrow is a 28 km walk..hope it's not as hot!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    1
    1
    Day 18

    Los Arcos to Logrona

    September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We were up early this morning to start off a big day of 28.5 km. After a terrible sleep I was happy to be up at 545 am and start walking 630 am with head torches on . The first part of the walk we were going at a great pace bur suddenly realised we were being eaten alive by mossies so although the sun was rising over the hills we could hardly stop to photograph due to mossie invasion on steroids. It was beautiful rolling countryside and we got to Sansol supposedly a pretty wee place but a mossie retreat +++. Not a long stop there as we came across another pretty town with super good coffee and the most beautifully baked fresh bread filled with omelets and tomate! Alot of the cafe employees have obviously been to a non charm academy of hospitality where you get grunted at and almost feel they are over us pilgrims making their days far too busy. Bur as long as the coffee is great we don't care.
    So on we went with some steep climbs but pretty countryside and new sown grass. Finally we came to Viana a beaut city with an old church and very medieval. We had an amazing lunch of garlic mushrooms on bread.
    So totally refreshed we set off for the last 11km.
    Luckily the rain had started to fall lightly which was far more pleasant then the relentless sun of yesterday. ⁸ So on and onand on we walked through the1 rioja wineries eating bunches of grapes.on the way. Logrona loomed in the distance but as usual the last few kilometers went on forever. Finally walking through the beautiful city of Logrona we found our comfortable hostel! The taking off of shoes at the end of the day and hopping in the shower is pure bliss!
    Who knew but there is a wine festival and the town is heaving. Unfortunately as responsible pilgrims ;we are not dancing.the night away but after a few drinks of the local rioja wine and tapas we are tucked up in bed. We have a 29 km walk ahead tomorrow so good sence prevailed
    . No blisters yet but.feet very sore at end.of day.
    It's amazing to think.that on the this walk all we focus on is our feet our muscles and where the next.good toilet and coffee will be??.
    Their is a lot of partying out so hope we get a good night's sleep    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    Day 19

    Logrono to Najera

    September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After a very lively noisy night outside our windows we blearily got up and set off again in the dark for another long long day of walking. People of Logrono were still partying from all the wine festival celebrations and the street cleaners were out water blasting the streets.
    It seemed quite a mission to get out of the city but it is a very pretty city , with a big river and is the capital of LA Rioja . It is a big university town, hence the feeling of being in party central!
    We finally found our way out of the city and it was pleasantly cool. We walked through more wineries helping ourselves to the bunches of grapes as hasn't had breakfast. After about 12km we walked into Navarette high on a hill (of course) . The boys had hearty bacon and eggs and us girls had delicious croissants which we felt we thoroughly deserved. We all felt a bit weary today so we just plodded along clicking off the kilometers.
    As you walk you do meet different people and today was Pamela from Indiana wearing a short skirt with huge strong legs! Lots of interesting chat with her, then a young Sth Korean boy who had terrible blisters so gave out advice on that problem. It's amazing how simple life becomes on the Camino, Rather then worrying about the leaders debate or the rugby world cup we are focusing on where the next cafe and toilet will be and what the state of our feet are. I must say I am very proud of my bunion afflicted feet! They do the job and none of our 8 feet have blisters!
    So on and on we walked with a headwind but at least it was cooling. They were harvesting the vineyards by hand and so lots of activity. We lay beside a vinyard and rested for awhile having nuts and lollies for lunch plus more grapes!
    Finally after a long hard slog through some not so pretty scenery we walked into Najerra with a quaint old town section where we are staying and it's so lovely and quiet! As we sat at a bar having a beer on arrival, Jane and I were laughing at our appearances of the delightful socks and sandal look ,but did we really care after walking 29 km ( 44,000 steps) , not at all and boy the beer tasted good! Off out soon to dine by the river and feeling rather hungry.
    I hope the awful weather in the South stops and the Warriors win! The rioja wine awaits!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    71
    Day 20

    Najera to Santo Domingo

    September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was a 21.3 km walk which we were pleased to be doing after the previous 2 long days.
    Before I begin the account of today's walk I will describe our dinner out last night.
    So all 4 of us are pretty tired but we staying in a gorgeous wee hotel/ airbnb . We get the recommendation of a nice restaurant catering for pilgrims, meaning it opens at 7 pm and not the normal Spanish time of 8 to 9 pm.
    For some reason the boys left Jane and I outside the restaurant waiting for it to open and along came a Frenchman called Alan and a young Texan called Barrett so as nice friendly pilgrims that we are , we invited them to dine with us. So our husbands arrived back to find 2 strange men sitting with us. It didn't take long for Jane and I to realise we may have made a mistake! As Lee ( who is sporting a slightly Donald Sutherland look!) commented later that all he was wanting was a quiet meal but instead he had a fog horn in his ear. The fog horn was Barrett who we decided was incredibly bright but a bit off this planet and there was nothing Barrett hadn't done including been a counter intelligence spy and currently a day time trader of options. So as he got louder and Lee's face grew more pained we were also coping with Alan talking to us in french/ English and laughing at his own stories of which we understood very little. What had happened to our quiet genteel meal after a long hike. In the end I asked Barrett to use his inside voice!
    So this morning we set off after a yum breakfast of breads pastrami cheese and coffee with a spring in our step knowing it wasn't to be such a long day. The sun was rising over yet more grape vines and recently ploughed red earth with the path rolling out before us.
    We had coffee in a cute village Azofra and caught up with different pilgrims we have met. On we walked and after a long hill climb there was a stall selling drinks and fresh fruit but then along came a pilgrim with a ukulele. This was too much for Brian so out came five foot two , much to the delight of our fellow walkers, but the funniest thing was who came along to join the fun but Barrett! You will see him in the video below wearing a kilt!
    On we walked Lee making sure Barrett was far ahead and we came upon the most luxurious golf club in a desolate place with a great cafe. Beers were drunk and lovely platters of sardines and olives were eaten and the local chorizo sausages.
    Finally we arrived at Santo Domingo another delightful Spanish village.
    It's been a great day and now we have the problem of trying to find coverage of the Sth Africa Irish game.
    Sorry this blog has been a tad long. Santo Domingo was the patron saint of civil engineering!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    1
    2
    Day 20

    Santo Domingo to Belorado

    September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was a very tiring day especially for our male walking companions. Maybe it was to do with the excitement of finally finding a bar last night in Santo Domingo that would play the SA v Ireland game! After a very tasty meal at the hotel we were staying at and meeting a SA born kiwi named Anne, we all except sensible Jane headed off to watch the rugby. I think the boys felt it necessary to buy rounds of drinks so the rugby stayed on! So after an exciting game we headed home and were up at 7am to start the 22.4 km walk. Surprisingly Lee and Brian were in cheerful spirits and Lee even sang Ireland's national anthem as we headed out. Maybe the Irish Baileys was still cursing through his veins!
    Today's walk in the cool morning air was quite stunning with "fields of gold" coming to mind. The rows of sun flowers stood in rows with their sad faces waiting to be harvested. The ? wheat fields have been ploughed and the paths were dry and dusty. Hot air balloons were floating nearby so it was all quite idyllic. BUT..we had thought we would have breakfast after 7 km which was very much needed but today is Sunday and hardly anything is open. On we walked through small sleepy villages with the occasional cat or dog to greet us. When I say small , imagine Mangaweka with a Spanish facade. We did share a banana some nuts and jubes for brekky. A feast for Kings!
    We walked through the border from Naverra into Castille so no more grapes to feast on.
    The 2nd half of the walk was much plainer and a bit of walking beside the highway with no shade and it was hot! Finally 5 km before we reached Belorado we found a cafe so it was the freshly squeezed orange juice and empanadas. It tasted so good.
    The next 5 km continued to be hot and dry but you have to imagine those ancient pilgrims in their sack tunics rope sandals and bearing crosses on their backs. No hot showers and wifi for them back in the day!
    Once again we met and talked with different people on the way so the kilometers just tick over.
    Belorado is a pretty wee town and famous for ancient cave dwellings up behind the town. I think it will be an early night.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    2
    Day 22

    Belorado to San Juan de Ortago

    September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Today was an early start for our 24 km walk . We left at 630 am in the dark and it was quite chilly. ( Brian loves it cold). We walked as day was breaking passing again fields of spent sunflowers but the sun was rising behind us and we were all feeling fresher then yesterday morning! After about 5 km we came across a cafe for a much needed coffee and the waitress had also been to the Spanish no charm school. However it was good to eat some breakfast..beautiful baguettes with pastrami and tomatoes and then Brian couldn't resist the sugar donuts!
    We carried on in the cool morning air but it was starting to warm up and luckily today there was lots of shade until near the end. We passed through a couple of pretty villages, one which had a beautiful old well that was meant to take all your tiredness away! We were tempted but it was pretty chilly.
    We stopped at Villa Franca for lunch ( pastries filled with chocolate or custard) So although we must be burning some calories with all the walking we are certainly consuming some!
    After leaving Villa Franca we started the ascent of Montes de Oca which is a climb of 200 metres over 3 km and it was hot! Maybe those pastries weren't a great idea. At the top of Montes de Oca there is a monument dedicated to the victims of a massacre during the civil war. The inscription reads " Their death wasn't in vain, their execution was"
    On we walked through forests of oak and pine and was great to be in the shade. The forest is meant to have wild boar, deer, badgers and wolves but luckily it was too hot for them to be out and about. We had a couple of stops in the shade and a lady had a stall with loud Spanish music playing.
    It's always the last 3 or 4 km that are the killers and by then the sun is hot and the shade had gone.
    Finally we got to San Juan which is a tiny wee village but our accommodation is great with even a clothes line! And guess who is in town, Barrett the fog horn. Lee is thrilled.
    We are all in good spirits, still no injury or blisters although the best part of the day is taking your shoes off.
    Love all your messages and it's starting to seem a long time since we left NZ. .    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    Day 23

    San Juan to Burgos

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    A later post tonight as we have hit the city lights of Burgos. What a contrast to San Juan where the only noises were roosters and cow bells!
    I must say though that last night we had the best meal. Black pudding, pork loin chops and salad. All for about 35 per person that included 2 bottles of red wine. Burgos region is famous for black pudding made from pigs blood! Best we don't know.
    So we had a very early night and then up early and on the road by 645 am with head torches on. We walked about 5 km and came to a cafe in Ages, tiny village and had our coffee and croissant fix.
    On we walked with the sun rising and saw our first lot of sheep in ages. Even heard bird song which has been a rare sound.
    Climbed a pretty steep hill and walked through forests but the the fun part of the walk was over! After another stop at a roadsidecafe we walked and walked along roads and crossed major highways until we walked into the industrial area of Burgos.
    We tried to find the alternative route via a river but alas it was never found!
    It was hot and I guess we were getting hangry but on we trudged. I guess it was a good reminder to us that Spain is not just about cute little villages and pilgrim walks!
    We did pass on our way the site of some of the first human relics found at Atapuerca and is now a world heritage site.
    Finally we arrived at our destination but the hostel didn't open until 4 pm so what were 4 tired pilgrims to do but have a long Spanish lunch under the shade of plane trees.
    Burgos is such a contrast to the quiet villages we have been staying at and tonight it was warm and so many out and about. We witnessed the Burgos rugby club being cheered on in the square for winning the Spanish rugby championship and apparently 2 kiwis are in the team
    The women here seem very stylie and our rather crumpled pilgrim clothes seemed a bit out of place.
    Rest day tomorrow and our legs need it so we will do relaxing sight seeing and laundry! 26 km walked today
    Buenos noches    Read more

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