Georgia & The Carolinas

May - June 2017
A 14-day adventure by Chrissie Read more
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  • Day 10

    Charleston – Middleton Place

    June 1, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Thursday 1st June
    Carlisle apologised again for our room not being serviced and reduced the price by $25 per night which we were grateful for. After checking out of Thomas Lamboll house and before setting off for the Inn at Middleton Place, the plantation we are staying at we did a tour of Nathaniel Russell’s house in Charleston. His house has been restored and preserved so you can see how he and his family and descendants lived from the mid 18th Century onwards. Another very interesting tour which we recommend.

    Middleton House is only 13 miles outside Charleston so it didn’t take long to get there, after stopping at ihop for brunch. Middleton House is absolutely fabulous, it’s the sort of place we treat ourselves to one or two nights on holiday. We are kicking ourselves now we didn’t stay here instead of Thomas Lamboll. We did the house tour this afternoon which explained that the original house and most of the original buildings were burnt down in the American civil war. What remains is the rebuilt wing of the house and outbuildings. A lot of the contents of the building was looted or burnt by the Unionists. Back in the day the Middleton family owned several plantations and many slaves. They were an extremely wealthy and influential family, one of the main families in the area and abroad in Russia where a descendant was a Governor to the Tsar before returning home. There are vast grounds attached to the house, and the terraces where rice was grown – for that was what the slaves grew and harvested for export to Britain via Charleston, are still clearly visible. The house and its grounds are next to the river Ashleigh which is a tidal river and was important for the rice harvesting. There are several lakes in the grounds as well, which again were controlled to assist the rice crop. Walking alongside the lakes we saw several alligators of varying sizes from 3’ to 6’ basking on the grass banks of the lakes. As we got close they raised themselves up and slowly slid into the lakes. Some just lay and watched as we walked behind them – quickly! There is so much to see here it won’t be possible to see it all in the little time we have. We did get to look around the farm which has various breeds of animals that would have been on the plantation; goats, sheep, horses, water buffalo, guinea fowl, and 1 cow which people were allowed to have a go hand milking. Obviously, I volunteered to have a go and did rather well as did Peter. Lots of information and products from the various occupations that were used – blacksmith, pottery, weaving and spinning, tallow candle making, cooper and carpenter. It was fascinating. Tomorrow before we leave we want to look round the extensive gardens. After the tours and walking we felt very hot and sticky so went for a dip in the pool which is set next to the river in the woodland. It was delightful and very refreshing. All around the grounds hammocks are slung between trees and benches are strategically sited with excellent views for guests to use. This was another establishment that did hors d’oeuvres – wine, beer, cheese and meatballs. We went along and joined in, it was delicious. We could get very used to the hors d’oeuvres hour!
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  • Day 11

    Middleton Place to Savannah

    June 2, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Friday 2nd June
    We were sad to wave goodbye to Middleton Place, it was a very relaxing place that was also educational about the history of the plantation and slavery. Quite shocking what was considered acceptable and normal in times gone by.

    Since we have had the Mustang the rear passenger tyre slowly deflates over 2 days to around 14lb when it should be 31lb. We have been managing it by pumping it up but today it went down in a day so we may be changing it tomorrow – don’t want to be stuck with a flat on the way to the airport and miss our flight!!

    On the way out of Charleston we stopped at the only American Tea Plantation and had a tour of the plantation and the factory. It was very like those we have seen in Africa and Sri Lanka but more mechanised and cleaner. After tasting some tea we bought a few tins for home then carried on our journey to Savannah.

    Arriving at Savannah around 5pm on a Friday night our first priority was to find a room for the night. We stopped at the visitor information, but the only deal they had was on a hotel 20 miles outside town. We wanted to be closer than that so looked up a few local motels and set off to take a look. The first one, De-Luxe Inns, looked a bit basic from the outside but we stopped and I went to ask about availability. I was a bit put off by the handwritten notices stuck on windows in reception and the counter glass saying that under no circumstances would any refunds be given, very unfriendly. The reception was a shabby place which stank of curry. The counter had a ceiling to counter glass partition with a little hole, like at a bank, into which you could put money or whatever to pass to the person behind the counter. The room wasn’t expensive so I asked to see a room, the Asian man behind the counter said the only vacancy had a broken door lock but they could get it fixed. The room we were shown had ceiling to floor mirrors on 3 walls with a big king sized bed with dark brown covers, it was dark and pokey and stank of smoke. I felt deeply disturbed and uneasy about the whole set up and returning it to the man at the counter said we would think about it. We looked at a Quality Inn next, which was much better but in the end settled for a Best Western with laundry facilities and breakfast included. We like Best Western, having used them many times before. It feels much safer and a million miles away from the weird set up at the De-Luxe Inns.
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  • Day 12

    Savannah

    June 3, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Saturday 3rd June
    The laundry facilities at the Best Western are situated right outside our room under a sort of car port affair. Strangely two guys did a big load of washing and tumble drying at 03:00 I sneakily peeped out and they seemed very agitated but were not making any noise so I went back to bed.

    This morning we met Savannah Dan for a walking tour of Savannah. He was recommended to us by a lady staying at the Princess Anne hotel with us in Asheville. Savannah Dan is ex army and ex police deputy sherrif, he is around 6’6” and big build, a man mountain. His tag is wearing a straw panama, a blue striped seersucker 2 piece suit and a colourful bow tie. He took us through the history of Savannah in a light-hearted and entertaining way, making it interesting and funny. Another one to highly recommend if you find yourself in Savannah.

    Our car has had a slow puncture since we got it, the nearside rear wheel slowly went down over 2 days to 14lbs, when this happens we go and pump it up and carry on. Now however it is going down a lot quicker and we got worried we might go to it and find we have a flat tyre and not be able to drive it to a garage to pump it up. So we took it to Avis at Savannah Airport and they swapped it for a black Mustang convertible. It is an older car, lower spec, with no sat nav, but the engine sounds much meatier so we think it is much more powerful – it does 15mpg! Glad we only have it for 2 days, it would be far too expensive to keep it longer. Peter is longing to open it up on a clear stretch of road, probably the interstate.

    We went to the Tangier Outlet Mall on the outskirts of Savannah and found some good bargains in clothing, footwear and Vera Bradley bags. Now we just have to fit it all in our cases!!
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  • Day 13

    Savannah to Macon

    June 4, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Sunday 4th June
    Last day of our holiday for tomorrow evening we fly back to Heathrow. We had decided to spend the morning in Savannah then to drive towards Atlanta to avoid a long drive tomorrow.

    Savannah dawned hot and steamy this morning. It was so hot it was difficult to find the energy to walk around. We walked along the river front where a riverboat steamer was moored. There were several tour buses that drove around the city offering the opportunity to see the sights without being in the scorching sun so we hopped onto one and enjoyed a relaxing ride around the city. Feeling peckish we looked round for somewhere to grab a bite to eat, I spotted a shop with Pie Society Traditional British Baking written across its window awning. Seeing ‘British’ I figured I would like this food so suggested we go there. The smells of all the pies as soon as we entered was overwhelming. I had a sausage roll and Peter had a steak and potato pie. It was the best food we have had all holiday and we had to buy some for later. Savannah is smaller than Charleston and although it has historic houses, there are not as many as Charleston. It has more green spaces, there are 22 green squares around the City as well as Forsyth Park which is a large park at the far end of town.

    Leaving Savannah we headed towards Macon which is about two thirds of the way to Atlanta. As we neared Macon lightning forked through the sky and thunder crashed, then it rained – really, really hard. We were glad we were close to Macon as driving conditions were dreadful. In town we pulled over and went in a bar where there was free wi-fi so we could find a place to stay. We decided on Comfort Inns as we have enjoyed previous stays and were not disappointed. As soon as we had arrived and checked in the heavens opened and the rain lashed down. Hopefully it will be better tomorrow.
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  • Day 14

    Macon to Atlanta

    June 5, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Monday 5th June
    After last night’s rain storms it was still overcast this morning. We finished packing, breakfasted and hit the road, giving ourselves plenty of time in case of any problems. We also planned to do a final bit of shopping. At one Mall, we found an amazing outdoor shop that had displays of stuffed animals – not sure if they were real or not, but they were in realistic woodland settings, they even had mock mountains for goats and aquariums for bears to fish. It really was a one of a kind, I have never seen a shop like this with such an elaborate display.

    The drive onwards to the airport was rather scary as the rain lashed down again, seriously reducing visibility and we had to travel on an 8-lane interstate. Peter slowed right down, but other cars and huge Big Mac arctics were roaring past, switching lanes and dodging about. We were very relieved when we finally reached Atlanta airport to return the car.

    So now we finally have settled into the lounge at Atlanta to relax before our flight home. Its been a great holiday, here are our votes for the highs and lows:-

    Favourite town – Asheville
    Favourite part of trip – Blue Ridge Parkway
    Best value motel – Comfort Inn
    Favourite hotel – tied between Princess Anne in Ashville and The Inn at Middleton Place
    Best buy – two plastic insulated mugs from Walmark reduced to $1 each – better than paper cups in hotels – if they were provided.
    Best thing we took with us – our kettle – US rooms only have coffee machines, and we DO like our tea.

    Mileage 2,032.6
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