• Diane A
Apr – Jun 2022

Diane’s Camino Frances

A 57-day adventure by Diane A Read more
  • Fromista to Leon

    May 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    I spent a nice morning having numerous coffees with people I have met over the last few weeks. Said a sad goodbye to Lesley. We came into each other’s lives at just the right time and were able to cheer each other up and keep each other company for a few days.

    I was so lucky to be in a town with a train station. I caught the midday train to Palencia which was interesting and busy. Then the 4pm train to Leon. My hotel for the week is right in the centre of town and I am hoping my foot recovers enough in a few days to see everything.

    It was sad to rush through the countryside from Fromista to Leon but I am very keen to get back walking on the weekend.

    Hotel via Leon
    7 kms
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  • Leon

    May 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    It’s been a surprisingly good day. I walked a short distance for breakfast and passed the Gaudí Museum, Botines House, and hopefully I will be able to visit it later in the week.

    I made an appointment to see a physio who specialises in pilgrim injuries and who was luckily just around the corner from my hotel. She was excellent and feels that I will be able to begin again on Saturday but doing not more than 20kms a day for a while. She showed me the correct way to strap my foot and I was able to video it so that I can do it correctly myself next time.

    I ended my day outdoors by having lunch right outside the cathedral which is also near my hotel.

    I am feeling much more positive now and am back to planning the next part of my Camino.

    Hotel via Leon
    5 kms
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  • Leon

    May 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    A quiet day in Leon resting my foot.

    But it was great to catch up with Sandra for an Italian meal opposite the Cathedral this evening.

    And also bumped into lots of others that we started with weeks ago - it’s a small world on the Camino.

    Hotel via Leon
    5kms
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  • Leon

    May 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I have had a really enjoyable day today. My foot was feeling good this morning so I was able to look around the city a bit more.

    I visited Gaudi’s Casa Botine which I really liked. Lesley arrived at my hotel this afternoon so we wandered around until it was time to meet Sandra for dinner.

    A great way to spend a day in Leon.

    Hotel via Leon
    11kms
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  • Leon ….. still

    May 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    I had another visit to the physio today and I am hoping I will be leaving Leon in the morning to restart my Camino.

    I had breakfast and then lunch with other pilgrims near the Cathedral. Five days of sitting and resting and eating in Leon was not what I had planned but it’s been a nice break. But I am looking forward to tomorrow!

    Hotel via Leon
    3kms
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  • Leon to Villar de Mazarife

    May 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    At last I have left Leon! To shorten the walk today I caught the local bus to the outskirts of the city and began walking from Virgen del Camino.

    The first half was like walking along a fire trail in the National Park. Long red tracks with low scrub and bright yellow wildflowers. It then changed to wheat fields and poppies - we are getting close to the end of the meseta.

    I am in a lively and large albergue, at the moment there are a group of locals downstairs playing a surprisingly loud game of dominos.

    My foot held up well, I rested it a lot on the way. And I’ve iced and elevated it since I got here but it is now feeling very sore. I will wait and see what tomorrow brings.

    Albergue de Jesus
    16kms
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  • Villar de Mazarife- Santibáñez

    May 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    It was a bit of a noisy night as the heavy wooden bunks were loud whenever anyone rolled over in bed. But I was still up early and on the road by 6.30am. My foot takes a while to stop hurting when I begin but once I get moving it’s pretty good.

    It was 10kms to the first town and as it is Sunday I wasn’t expecting anything to be open. The first thing I saw was a water fountain and I was very happy with that. Then as I rounded the corner there was a cafe open. And then as I got closer there was Lesley talking to the couple who helped me up when I sprained my ankle! So it was great to catch up with them all. Onwards through Hospital de Orbigo which would have been a good place to stay - lots of open bars and cafes and that great bridge as you enter.

    But I kept on to my albergue in Santibanez de Valdeiglesias. I am in a room with three single beds with sheets and blankets already made up and a real towel and toiletries. When the owner saw my sore foot she gave me a bed that had an electric device that raised the foot and to keep my leg elevated. And made me some lunch because everything in town is closed. There is another Australian staying here, Nicole from Brisbane. And she’s a physio! So a great day!

    L'Abilleiru Albergue Rural
    18kms
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  • Santibáñez to Santa Catalina

    May 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Our albergue last night was one of the best so far. The owner couldn’t have been nicer.

    I shared a taxi with Nicole to Astorga to rest my foot a bit with a shorter day. As we turned the corner into the town, there was Lesley again! We all had a second breakfast and Nicole very kindly restrapped my ankle in a more supportive way.

    Lesley and I visited the Palacio de Gaudi - I don’t think there is anything Gaudi left for me to do now.

    My foot went well with the new strapping but I will see how the next few days go when we get to rockier paths, I will probably need to adjust my plans a bit.

    I walked in to my albergue a few towns on which is my first donativo and it is very different to anywhere else I’ve stayed. It was very bohemian looking and the dormitory was a bit rough. But the communal dinner was great and then a few guests and the host picked up the instruments and we had music and singing. A unique experience!

    La Boheme
    11kms
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  • Santa Catalina de Somoza to Foncebadon

    May 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    I left early this morning after a sleepless night (not sure is it was the spicy meal or the cask wine or the sheetless and lumpy beds without pillows). And it was freezing! I had shorts on and my long pants were in my bag that was being sent on. I was lucky I had my fleece and rain jacket with me as I needed both, and my buff, as we climbed up the hill.

    I managed the first half well as it was nice and flat but once we got to the very rocky path it was so difficult to watch each step so I didn’t twist my foot.

    It was a relief to finally arrive at my albergue. It is nice and warm in here and after icing my foot and showering I had lunch in the local pizzeria.

    I have decided not to walk tomorrow as the entire way will be steep and rocky and with sheets of shale. I don’t want to risk any injury when I am so close to the end (well about 250kms). So I will get a taxi to Ponferrada and have a rest day.

    El Convento de Foncebadon
    18kms
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  • Foncebadon to Ponferrada

    May 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I caught a taxi this morning for the 22 km drive to Ponferrada (It was 27 km on the Camino). As we came up and down and down the mountains I realised that I had made the right decision - I couldn’t have walked it, especially with the very rocky paths.

    But the views were spectacular and it would have been a great walk under different circumstances.

    The upside was that I was able to spend time visiting the Templars Castle and wandering through the local street markets which were on today.

    Hostal San Miguel
    9kms
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  • Ponferrada to Trabadelo

    May 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I caught the bus this morning to Villafranca del Bierzo. I then walked to Trabadelo. It was a bit of a climb and alongside a road but the path was flat.

    And then after two years of anticipation I arrived at Casa Susi and immediately burst into tears when I saw Sue and Fermin. As many of you know it is a beautiful albergue. The house is so pretty and comfortable.

    After a shower I went down to the river to soak my sore foot in the cold water. I am here for two nights and I hope I will feel refreshed and more able to continue on.

    We had a delicious communal dinner with lots of really nice people. A perfect end to the day.

    Casa Susi
    12kms
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  • Trabadelo

    May 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I spent a very relaxing day at Casa Susi. I had coffee and muesli in the kitchen with the other pilgrims who were walking today. Then a second breakfast upstairs with Susi and Fermin and Peter from Queensland (of the cards and calendar gofundme).

    I relaxed in the hammock and by the river and met another group of interesting pilgrims in the evening at dinner.

    A perfect few days!

    Casa Susi
    5kms
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  • Trabadelo to O’Cebreiro

    May 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    It was very sad to leave Casa Susi. It has been the perfect way to regroup and rest. The food and company has done a lot to lift my spirits.

    I took a taxi to O’Cebreiro as I wouldn’t have been able to climb that mountain. We are now in Galicia and almost finished with the steep climbs.

    I went to my first pilgrim’s mass and blessing this evening. The theme was ‘hope’ and I will take that with me over the next six days as I head towards Santiago de Compostela.

    Casa Campelo
    4kms
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  • O’Cebreiro to Triacastela

    May 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Well I did it - I walked a full day!

    I left O’Cebreiro as the sun was rising and the mountains were full of mist. There were a few very big climbs and then a very, very long and steep descent. But the paths were reasonably flat and there were some beautiful shaded areas which made it much easier. There were a few delays as we had to wait for the cattle to walk down the road in a number of villages.

    Triacastela is a lively place with lots of restaurants. I had my most delicious Menu del Dia so far and then back to my bunk for a siesta.

    It’s a great feeling to be back walking.

    Albergue-Pensión Complexo Xacobeo
    23kms
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  • Triacastela to Sarria

    May 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    I had a great night’s sleep - everyone was happy to have the window open and what a difference it makes to have fresh air in a crowded dormitory! The bar opened early so I was able to have breakfast before starting. This really helps because ibuprofen is keeping me going and you can’t have it on an empty stomach. Unfortunately it wears off after about 4 hours and it’s too soon for the next dose. So the last bit starts to become painful again, but manageable.

    It was a very long climb out of Triacastela and a very steep descent towards Sarria. But today was one of the prettiest walks so far. It was like walking through a rainforest, lots of shade and mossy banks. Really beautiful. We also went through lots of tiny villages where the people have dairy farms. There weren’t any services for about 7 kms until a vending machine suddenly appeared in a very unlikely place. A Coke and a packet of chips has become a regular snack. And then around the next bend was a donativo stall with fresh hard boiled eggs and fruit. You never know what to expect. We were very lucky with the weather as the roads in Sarria were very wet but we had only the slightest drizzle. I have a private room tonight so will have an early night as tomorrow will be another hilly day.

    El Bordon de la Casa Batallon
    20kms
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  • Sarria to Portomarin

    May 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    I had an early start with the sun just rising again. The first hour was hard while my body woke up and I argued with myself whether I could do this or not. But then things got easier and I began to enjoy it.

    I think some of it may have been the large and noisy groups (even at 6am) racing past me. There are so many who began their Camino today and I felt old and slow and dusty beside them. But they did slow down as the kilometres added up and their feet began to hurt like the rest of us.

    I had a delicious pizza for lunch when I arrived and I’ve got another private room which is bright and airy.

    Unfortunately I’ve developed a reaction to the strapping tape and my calves are a bit of a mess. But luckily I met up with Nicole the physio from Brisbane this evening and she had a few ideas for me to try.

    It’s raining now and the forecast for the next few days is rain. Hopefully they are wrong but we are in Galicia now so it is to be expected I guess.

    Albergue-Pensión Manuel
    23kms
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  • Portomarin to Palas de Rei

    June 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    I had another early start but it was very foggy so there was no beautiful sunrise. It was quite a climb for the first few hours but it was still so foggy that you couldn’t see what you were climbing or where you’d come from.

    After about 5kms we reached the top of a hill and there was a van and some tables set up with fruit, juice and coffee. But unfortunately it wasn’t a donativo, it was the breakfast for the large tour group that had been walking alongside me. Very disappointing! Fortunately there was a real breakfast stop around 7 kms and I sat out in the sunshine with my bacon and eggs, fresh orange juice and coffee.

    Soon after the fog lifted but the sky began to darken. And then it poured. And it poured. And it poured. The first rain I have had on the whole Camino.

    Palas de Rei isn’t as vibrant as the last few stays. I had an big lunch and some ice cream for dinner and then an early night.

    Albergue Mesón de Benito
    20kms
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  • Palas de Rei to Arzua

    June 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    It was a long and noisy night. And so airless. Everyone came in yesterday afternoon wet and tired and closed the door and windows of the dormitory - by morning you can imagine how it was!

    My foot was particularly painful today and I wondered if I would be able to go on. The path was so crowded and loud. It is so different to the last month - a totally different experience.

    Luckily Johan and Tony are staying in this town too and we caught up for a few drinks this afternoon/evening. Because my walk has been so disjointed I have lost track of most of the people I’ve met on the way and it was so good to be with some familiar faces from home. I feel a lot better and am looking forward to tomorrow.

    A Casa do Lajueiro
    10kms
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  • Arzua to O Pedrouzo

    June 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    I had a good night sleep in a really comfy room and was on the road very early. Again it was foggy for the first half and so I couldn’t see the sunrise.

    It was a shaded walk through forests and farmland and lots of small villages with cafes.

    It’s my last night in an albergue and I have a bottom bunk with a bit of space around me. I ate a Menu del Dia outside a restaurant and sat for the last time with absolutely nothing that needed doing, that is something I will miss.

    And finished up the day having dinner with Johan and Tony.

    Albergue Mirador de Pedrouzo
    20 kms
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  • O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

    June 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Well I did it! Not the Camino I had so carefully planned but the Camino that I had. I left very early this morning so that I could catch up to Sandra who was staying 7 kms ahead of me. It was not as foggy but it was very overcast so it was dark for some time, especially in the forest. I did eventually catch Sandra and I was so glad we could walk into Santiago together. It was very emotional. We also caught up with Tony and Johan - the odds of the four of us arriving there on the same day are unbelievable.

    We received our Compostella and really felt we had earned it. It was a very proud moment.

    We had an exceptional Menu del Dia to celebrate and then I went to the laundromat so I could at last have some clean clothes. I would love though to have some different clothes! We all met up for a drink and some snacks in the evening and it was a great end to a great day. I am staying in a lovely hotel right near the Cathedral recommended by Narelle and and looking forward to a lazy morning.

    Libredon Rooms (room 24)
    25 kms
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  • Santiago de Compostela

    June 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    To all you patient and supportive family and friends - thanks for following my Camino. Your comments, likes and views kept me motivated and committed to keep going when I was ready to give up.

    My trip is not over. I have Muxia, Finistere, (by bus!) Santiago and then Madrid to do so I will keep posting but will not be offended if you stop following so closely!

    Santiago, like all the bigger places I have been so far, is very noisy at night. It takes a bit of getting used to and not waking after every merry person passes under your window throughout the night.

    It was so good not to rush out this morning. Sandra and I were on the queue at the Cathedral not long after 10am and seated inside for the midday Mass at 10.30am! Fortunately for us it is Pentecost Sunday so the Botafumeiro would be used. This only happens on special days so it was a big deal. And spectacular!

    Johan and Tony were also in the Cathedral and we met up afterwards for lunch. Sandra and I then explored the Parador Hotel which was a lot of fun.

    Then I went back to my lovely hotel to rest and enjoy the sounds of Santiago from my windows.

    Libredon Rooms
    5kms
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  • Santiago to Muxia

    June 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I had another relaxing morning laying in bed and looking out of my window to the skyline near the Cathedral. Sandra and I later walked to the bus station and caught the service to Muxia, about 90 minutes away. The weather was grey and misty and the weather app predicted 100% chance of rain all day. But when we reached the coast the sun magically appeared and the sky was blue. We are staying in lovely private rooms at Bela Muxia (another of Narelle’s exceptional recommendations).

    Muxia is beautiful. There are ocean and bay views from all directions. We scrambled up a huge hill behind our accommodation and the view was amazing (my foot is finally getting better - not quite, but enough to get around more easily). We then walked along the seaside which is lined with restaurants and chose one that specialised in Galician local seafood. It was delicious and we will try another one tomorrow. Then a quick trip to the supermarket for something easy for dinner. We finished the day by watching a pair of seagulls and their three chicks on the roof across from us. Another great day!

    Bela Muxia
    9 kms
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  • Muxia

    June 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A lazy morning - what a treat it is not to have to pack up each morning and jam that big sleeping bag into that tiny stuff sack.

    We found the correct path this morning up to the cross on Monte Corpino that we tried to find on our scramble up the hill yesterday. The view from there was amazing - it is such a beautiful place.

    We went back for another seafood lunch at A Marina and was joined by Eleanor from Dublin.

    We stopped at the supermarket and the bakery for some wine, bread and cheese which we had for our dinner on the terrace this evening while we watched the seagull parents and chicks on the roofs around us. They are very entertaining.

    It has been such a relaxing and enjoyable few days.

    Bela Muxia
    8 kms
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  • Muxia to Finisterre

    June 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Another relaxing morning before we caught the bus to Finisterre.

    We were very lucky with the weather while we were in Muxia - lots of sun and blue skies. This morning was overcast and drizzly.

    We have an apartment in Finisterre with wonderful water views. We have spent the afternoon walking on the beach outside the apartment and Sandra has collected a lot of beautiful sea glass. We will walk to the lighthouse tomorrow, hopefully the weather will clear.

    We finished off the cheese for dinner and then went for a walk around town. The bays around the coastline are clear and calm, it’s beautiful.

    Apartamento Con Vistas Al Mar
    8 kms
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  • Finisterre

    June 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We walked to the lighthouse this morning and by the time we arrived around nine the mist had cleared and the views were very good.

    We then caught the bus to Cee to look around before the shops closed for siesta.

    I spent a bit of time fossicking on the beach below the apartment for sea glass - there was so much of it at low tide.

    Fish dinner on the waterfront and then an early night.

    Apartamento Con Vistas Al Mar
    14 kms
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