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Tasmania - April 2024
  • Daniel Giffney
April 2024

Tasmania - April 2024

A 17-day adventure by Daniel Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 12, 2024
  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Gundagai

    April 12, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Whilst the kids were at the last day of school for Term 1 we prepared for the trip to meet the Spirit of Tasmania in Geelong.
    The car has been decked out with tour stickers and the quintessential Jack Jumpers membership sticker (the JJs are in their third season and are the 23/24 NBL Champions).
    Our plans to leave when the kids got home from school didn’t go to plan, but we eventually fitted in all our gear and the four of us piled into the car (and a squadron of mosquitoes) and headed for Gundagai for the first leg of our trip.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler
    1📷 Claire

    Geelong

    April 13, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today we drove from Gundagai to Geelong. 920 odd kilometres since we left home and we come across our third set of traffic lights in Geelong!
    Arriving in Geelong at 2:30pm we needed to kill time until 9:30pm to board the Spirit of Tasmania - which was late coming into port. We’re expected to board at 11pm.
    We spent the afternoon along the waterfront, which has some curious art installations.
    We had a late lunch at a cafe where nearby a helicopter did 4 minute joy flights for $95. The sweet potato fries were great but was nothing compared to Fiona’s cupcake.
    A walk up and down the wharf before we decided for an early dinner. Not being too hungry we decided on a Mexican restaurant where the paella wasn’t too bad.
    With little else to do we headed to the wharf early to line up for the Spirit of Tasmania - it seems that everyone else was keen too!
    We boarded just before 11pm but it wasn’t until after midnight we set sail as we stood outside on the deck with a drink to toast the start of the Tassy adventure!    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler
    White's skink (Liopholis whitii)

    Devonport to Bay of Fires

    April 14, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had a fairly smooth ride across on the Spirit of Tasmania. At some stage during the night there was some swell but it wasn't too bad.
    Arriving in Devonport at around 10:30 we headed to Launceston to visit Cateract Gorge. But before we got there we pulled into the Christmas Hills Raspberry Farm Cafe where we picked up a couple of cups of berries before continuing onto the Gorge. The berries were delicious!
    Arriving at the Gorge we found a rather tranquil park with a 50 metre swimming pool, chairlift and bushland.
    We headed over on the chairlift before exploring some of the trails. We walked quietly so as to not spook the wildlife and was rewarded with a lot of birds and skinks and the occasional wallaby.
    We headed into Launceston for a quick late lunch before heading off to Bay of Fires for the next few days. We're sharing a house with the McDermotts - bit of an upgrade from caravans!    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler
    Elephant Rock

    Bay of Fires

    April 15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A busy day of driving around North East Tasmania.
    We headed off to Eddystone lighthouse - an interesting structure but is dwarfed by the alluring rocks nearby and the white sand beaches to the south.
    We explored the rocks for a while before heading to the Little Blue Lake - a former tin mine with the water blue from the aluminium in the water (it isn’t safe to swim in)!
    A drive through some scenic rainforests and over some impressively large mountains we arrived at Pyengana Dairy for lunch and then a little down the road we shared a beer with Priscilla, the beer drinking pig at the Pub in the Paddock.
    About 5km further down the road was the St Columba Falls - a 90 metre drop with rainforest surrounding. Scrambling over rocks we found some different angles to photograph from.
    About half an hour drive back to our accommodation, but we scouted a few locations for another morning shoot, but decided to check them from the air instead.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Bicheno

    April 16, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Last year we were in Cervantes, Western Australia where we snorkelled with Sea Lions and sat down to have a seafood platter at Lobster Shack. Today, we're in Bicheno and found our way to the east coast version of Lobster Shack.
    We had booked a table, something they don't normally do, (just like the Cervantes version) and ordered the seafood platter. So how'd they rate? The atmosphere in Cervantes was much better, but the lobster and the prawns were far better in Tassy!
    We had a few stops on the way to Lobster Shack to take in the view of the north east coast of Tasmania, looking out into the abyss of the Tasman Sea.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Binalong Bay to Carlton

    April 17, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Today we bid farewell to the North Eastern corner of Tasmania - an area characterised by the large coastal rocks with red lichen, contrasting the fine white sand and blue waters.
    Nearby to Binalong Bay is Saint Helens - the nearest town centre. It seemed fitting and possibly wishful thinking that Helen should get a lottery ticket before we left (so far Michael scratches up $3, but the million dollar draw is tomorrow night!)
    Driving south we went to Freycinet National Park where we trekked the 3km to the lookout for an amazing view. The water below looked tempting with the idyllic turquoise water and white sands, but the 1000 steps down (and same back) was not enticing!
    Whilst in the park we also went to Sleepy Bay where we saw Yellow-Tailed Black Cockatoos and Cape Tourville lighthouse, where we came across a very friendly Bennet’s Wallaby.
    After a quick stop in Coles Bay for lunch, we continued south, stopping at Milton Cellar door and the Spiky Bridge as we drove past many sheep filled paddocks, vineyards and beaches.
    We arrived just on evening in Carlton for our second stopover, but after a long day we decided to go to Dodges Ferry Hotel for dinner.
    One thing we really want to experience whilst in Tasmania is the Aureus Australis - the Southern lights. Last night, whilst we had rain overnight in Binalong Bay, the rest of Tasmania apparently experience an amazing show. So tonight we ventured to Carlton Surf Club and posted the lens southward. A few experiments and we were able to capture a very small and insignificant aureus… we hope for more during the week!    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Port Arthur

    April 18, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Today we travelled to Port Arthur, the site of one of Australia’s harshest penal
    settlements- Van Diemens land has a worse one in Macquarie Harbour before.
    The settlement operated between 1830 and 1877, the same time period that my Great great great grandmother was also a convict in the Cascade Women’s Factory.
    Her son-in-law, Matt Higgins was a guard in Hobart gaol in 1877. In 1916 he wrote “The majority of those prisoners were quite harmless, and if one only gave them a kind word they were pleased. Most of them were transported from England, Ireland, and Scotland for very tritling offences, such as shooting a hare or a rabbit on some rich man's land, or a row at a fair, or a brawl in a public house, for which at the present day a light penalty is inflicted. For these offences they were sent out to one of the penal settlements in Australia. It is a mistake to be too severe on prisoners, as it only makes men more hardened and more difficult to reform afterwards. I don’t believe any man could be reformed by cruelty, and very often an act of leniency has a good effect upon them. The prisoners who were removed from Port Arthur did not like the change, as they had more freedom there, and those of industrious habits often saved money that was allowed them for growing vegetables.”
    Knowing that family walked the same streets 150 years ago makes Tasmania just a little more interesting.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    MONA

    April 19, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    This morning we headed into Hobart to catch the ferry to MONA - the Museum of Old and New Art.
    But before that we tried to see the old Hobart Gaol (Convict Penitentiary). We parked next to TCA Ground in Glebe, high on top of a hill and started to walk down to Hobart town. As we walked it seemed familiar. A quick search and we were one street away from one of the houses of Matthew Higgins (c. 1914) in Service St. So we walked there first.
    Then onto the Gaol, but it was only booked tours and we didn’t have time today. The Gaol is on the corner of Brisbane Rd which also has one of Matthew’s homes (c.1931). We walked the length of the street to find it!
    Afterwards we found a fantastic cafe on Argyle St before joining the others for the ferry to MONA.
    MONA was interesting. A bit unsettling. Very much confusing. And in some circumstances, makes one question what is art and what is social commentary or a science experiment. Claire loved it. It grew on Michael.
    Afterwards we went to The Drunk Admiral for a seafood platter.
    Returning home I noticed that the Aurora indicators were going off. Despite the overcast weather we headed out and caught just a glimpse of colour.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Aurora australis

    April 20, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    I woke up at 3:30am and looked out the window and could see clear skies and some colour. A quick picture with the phone confirmed that there were lights.
    Tempted to go into the backyard and get some shots, but then I realised the tripod was in the car, so I decided on going to the beach and see what I could capture.
    It was freezing cold, but I was happy with the results!

    Auroras are the result of disturbances in the magnetosphere caused by the solar wind. Major disturbances result from enhancements in the speed of the solar wind from coronal holes and coronal mass ejections. These disturbances alter the trajectories of charged particles in the magnetospheric plasma. These particles, mainly electrons and protons, precipitate into the upper atmosphere (thermosphere/exosphere). The resulting ionization and excitation of atmospheric constituents emit light of varying colour and complexity. The form of the aurora, occurring within bands around both polar regions, is also dependent on the amount of acceleration imparted to the precipitating particles.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Margaret Cusack

    April 20, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    It was another early start today as we headed into Hobart to get to the Salamanca Markets. 19 years ago we finished our stay in Hobart and bought our salt and pepper grinders here - still the same markets, but a lot more people!
    After spending what felt like the National debt of a small nation, we walked back to the Penitentiary Prison for a tour.
    When we arrived we looked around for a while before being let into one of the former wings of the Church, which was converted to the Supreme Court of Tasmania.
    Sitting in what were the witnesses boxes our guide Angela, asked if anyone had convict ancestors. I put my hand up and said that I also had an ancestor who had worked at the prison.
    She then stated to talk of some of the convicts and how they suffered and the impact upon their life expectancy and then said that her grandmother’s grandmother was a convict named Margaret Cusack and she lived to 103. Well you could have knocked me over with a feather. I just said “we’re related”.
    After the tour we spoke for a while and exchanged details so we can keep in touch and can find out more - her elderly aunt has done some family history work.
    My convict heritage knowledge only started 19 years ago when I dispelled the family myth of being related to Charles Dickens. Interestingly Angela said that her family lived opposite a penal facility (Cascades maybe) for 20 years unbeknownst to them that Margaret had been a convict.
    We wanted to make the tour at the Cascades Female Factory so had to Uber back to our car, grab some lunch at the markets on the run through and race to the Cascades Female Factory.
    Not much remains of the original buildings - demolished as part of the push to remove the convict stain. Three of the five yards still exist with the original high boundary walls but the remainder are marked out with various materials, including the tiny cells that women like Margaret lived in.
    The stories we heard were for the earlier days of the place, Margaret arriving in the later years. She had a child whilst in the Factory, who is listed on a wall of children born in the factory. The overwhelming majority of babies died - Stephen Cusack was one of the exceptions and live until his 70s.
    After Cascades we drove up Mt Wellington just in time to catch sunset.
    Dinner was at the Cascade Brewery.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Southern Edge

    April 21, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Today we headed south to Bruny Island - a short ferry ride across the D'Entrecasteaux Channel to the 362m2 landmass.
    There are two islands, joined by a narrow, sandy isthmus which has a lookout and memorial to Truganini, one of the last native speakers of the Tasmanian languages and one of the last individuals solely of Aboriginal Tasmanian descent.
    The isthmus is also home to a colony of Little Penguins. Michal was hopeful of seeing one and we managed to spot one which was hiding in its burrow.
    We made our way to Adventure Bay for a jet boat tour down the south coast, along the Bay of Islands, past Tasman Head and into the Great Southern Ocean to The Friars island group to watch seals with Pennicott Wilderness Adventures.
    We darted into and out of sea caves, shot between rocks (twice) and watched a “breathing” rock which sucked water in before spraying it out (and over us!)
    Once we started heading back we were facing the sun and going with the swell… perfect conditions for a quick snooze!
    Back on land we had a late lunch at the cafe.
    Michael had wanted to see one of the albino wallabies on the island (no doubt a result of inbreeding and no predators). We quickly searched the back roads (on advice of some locals) and found one in the distance but then another with an albino peacock!
    It was time to head home. We pulled into the chocolate shop and got way too much chocolate, then a beer, bread and cheese place just before they closed and finally “Get Shucked” for a very nice half dozen fresh oysters and a glass of Janz for Helen.
    With only one way on and off the island there was a queue of cars to board the ferry - it took us about an hour to get over (3 full
    ferries).
    Cheese for dinner tonight before packing to start our journey west tomorrow.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Western Wilds

    April 22, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today was a driving day, leaving Hobart and heading to Strahan.
    After a brief stop in Nee Norfolk to check lottery tickets (we didn’t win except for $3 on scratchies) e stopped at a picturesque spot along the banks of the Derwent River for a drone shot.
    We headed west along the Lyell Highway, with a detour along a dirt road (a shortcut) that took us through some amazing forestry regions - some native, some plantation.
    We arrived at Lake St Clair and had a very brief walk in the bush to the edge of the lake (you can walk all the way to Cradle Mountain). Taking a heap of photos of some of the finer details of the plants in the region, and one Black Currawong that was obviously up early!
    Just down the road is The Wall in the Wilderness. One man’s interpretation of Tasmania beautifully hand-carved in a beautiful shed. Unfortunately he also requests no photos, which is a shame… but google it!
    We set off again for Strahan, stopping to get a few photographs of a mountain (with glorious yellow vegetation in the foreground and clouds passing the peak) and spectacle waterfalls in rainforests. We walked along a swing bridge over the Franklin River.
    Driving through what is supposedly 99 bends, but felt like 999 bends we arrived at Queenstown, a copper mining town. The hills are denuded and sharp jagged rocks. A while ago I read about the first convict colony in Tasmania and the story of some of the convicts who tried to escape, having their clothes shredded by the bush and bodies cut up by the sharp rocks. Another indication as to how desperate some of the convicts became to escape their wretched time in Macquarie Harbour.
    In the evening we went to see The Ship That Never Was. A play based upon true events that has been showing for 30 years. A great show, with full audience participation.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Franklin-Gordon Wild River National Park

    April 23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today we boarded another river cruise, but this one was a little bit different.
    We joined the Gordon River Cruises for a 6 hour cruise out through Devil's Gates into the Southern Ocean and then along the Franklin-Gordon River, into a World Heritage Area.
    We heard about the engineering to create a faster water flow to ensure that the mouth of the river didn't get silted up and the treacherous stories of the ships coming into the Harbour. The Harbour, which is larger than Sydney Harbour has very little industry around it - but one of the activities is fish farming, a big change from the days when the mighty Huon Pine was felled and floated downriver for milling.
    The Pine is a very slow growing tree, taking around 100 years to become around 20 centimetres thick. But it had great properties, including being resistant to rotting so it was almost harvested out of existence.
    We sailed into the Franklin-Gordon Wild River National Park, entering a UNESCO World Heritage area. As the diesel motors were cut and we went under electric power you could hear a chorus of bird song, including the Glossy Black Cockatoos.
    We stopped at an elevated boardwalk for a walk amongst the rainforest. We noticed so many of the smaller details of the rainforest, such as the mosses and fungi.
    Once back on board we had a smorgasbord lunch as the boat set sail for Sarah Island - the site of a former penal colony and one of the harshest to have existed in Tasmania (or anywhere else for that matter).
    We toured the island with Lyle from the Round Earth Theatre Company whom we had seen perform the night before.
    At the end of the tour the adults booked into 42º Restaurant for a smorgasbord of wonderful seafood, salads, hot food and deserts whilst the kids had chicken rolls and chaos back at the accommodation. Everyone seemed to enjoy themselves that night!    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Journey to the Edge of the World

    April 24, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Another day of driving through some breathtaking landscapes - from rainforest on the side of mountains to lush green hills filled with cows and out to the Edge of the World where the red jagged rocks cut through the thunderous waves as they roll in from Argentina.
    Overnight in Strahan there was heavy rainfall, but we awoke to blue skies. As we moved north we got to experience the true roaring 40s winds - so much so that the drone couldn’t handle some flights!
    The wind were so send that when we arrived in Stanley, the chairlift to the top of The Nut (a was not operating. We could have opted to walk to the top (143m) but we may well have been blown off!
    We headed an hour west to Arthur River, otherwise known as The Edge of the World - where it is the longest continuous stretch of water before hitting landfall - Argentina, some 20,000 km away. The rocks are jagged, the waves relentless and the beach and surrounds littered with driftwood from around the world.
    We headed back to our digs for the evening, a house with a spectacular view across to The Nut and the open water of Bass Straight - Victoria being on the otherside.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler
    1

    Stanley to Cradle Mountain

    April 25, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We had an easier start to the day, although Helen did get up for sunrise. The kids had a play on the beach, checking out the various rocks before we headed east.
    We drove through Wynyard and then onto Ulverstone and went past the basketball stadium (where Daniel did a National Championships in 2009) and over the bridge where Daniel took a photo in 2009.... but the bridge has changed and the photo wouldn't be possible today.
    We headed back to Penguin to meet up with the others. When we arrived the ANZAC Day service was just getting underway. We listened to the speeches and paid our respect to those who have served to enable us to enjoy our way of life. Whilst the service was happening I saw a Vietnam Vet in bike leathers. He kept moving around and looked uncomfortable. At the end of the service he was getting his gear together to ride off. I approached him and asked if he was okay. We chatted for a while and we wished him well before he rode off.
    We then went to the Penguin Beer Company, just a few metres away from the service - having a beer paddle to sample their product and hamburgers for lunch.
    Then it was off to Cradle Mountain - some amazing sites along the way - steep and winding roads.
    Tonight we went to see Tassy Devils and Spotted Quolls being fed... tomorrow we climb Cradle Mountain!    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler
    1

    Cradle Mountain

    April 26, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    When on a tight schedule you don’t get to pick the weather when doing something like the walk around Dove Lake at Cradle Mountain.
    Dove Lake has a 6km track around it. The lake was carved out by a glacier, the scars of which can still be seen on some of the granite rocks. The adjacent mountains creates a unique microclimate with clouds often circling the peak of the adjacent Cradle Mountain.
    The entire time we were there the clouds encircled different parts of the mountain resulting in not being able to see it all at once. In our travels we came across a photographer who had waited for hours yesterday and was going to wait a few more hours today to capture “the shot” of the mountain. It never occurred whilst we were there.
    Instead of wide angle landscape shots, we focused on macro again. The leaves of unique plants, including the yellow leaves of the only native birch tree. Again we found some mushrooms and mosses everywhere. The walk took us about 4 hours (usually 3 for those not photographing everything!)
    We left the mountain and went to nearby Rory Flats, which is the start of the Overland Trek - a 5-7 day hike back to Lake St Clare. Just on the short bit of the trek we did we came across around 10 wombats - none of which came too close.
    Back to the cabins to relax before dinner at nearby Peppers Bistro.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Relished

    April 27, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    On our second day in Tasmania we had lunch at Pyengana Dairy where we had a really nice tomato relish.
    We bought a jar of it and have had it on the trip often.
    On our last day in Tasmania we’ve finished the jar! 😭Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Cradle to Coast

    April 27, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Our last day in Tasmania. We started the day with fantastic blue skies. From the visitor centre we could see Cradle Mountain, free of clouds - unlike yesterday.
    We drove to the ranger’s station but could go no further in our car. With bus tickets valid for 3 days we jumped on the bus and headed to Dove Lake to capture the photo that alluded us yesterday.
    When we got to the Lake we raced to the water’s edge and started taking photos.
    The water was still and reflected the mountain. Clicking away with various setting and angles as quickly as possible.
    And then the sun started to warm up the surrounding land and the wind started to create ripples on the water.
    We raced around to the boat shed and got some more photos before jumping back on a bus.
    Our next stop was Sheffield - small town with a lot of charm and at least 3 cafes. We explored the shops before having lunch in a cafe.
    Heading north we once again saw Bass Strait - our “highway” back to the mainland later tonight.
    Stops at Speyton Cider, Ghost Rock Wines, Anvers Chocolate Factory, Southern Wild Distillery, Mersey Bluff Lighthouse and Beer Street before dinner at the Molly Malones Irish Pub.
    Tonight we board the Spirit of Tasmania at 9pm for a 11:30pm departure.    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler
    Bye Tasmania

    Wangaratta

    April 28, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Overnight we sailed from Devonport to Geelong, arriving at 9:30am. We were parked on the bottom deck and with one ramp out of service it took until 11am for us to disembark.
    The kids have been reading all trip but have read everything so a visit to a bookstore was required. They paid for their own books and were had a quick breakfast before heading north to Wangaratta.
    The roads are straight. The land is flat. And there are no steering winds. We’re not in Tassy anymore.
    We traveled to Brown Brothers Cellar Door and tried a wide range of their wines before moving on to a nearby cheese maker (but their tastings had ended for the day) and then onto Sam Miranda King Valley cellar door where we picked up some more wine.
    We checked into the motel then walked to Masala Corner, an Indian restaurant that we tried on or east through in January. Worth the revisit!
    And so our trip will end tomorrow. We’ve thoroughly enjoyed our time away and sharing it with Macca and Fiona and family. Next trip is already booked for January 2025!    Read more

  • Daniel GiffneyTasmania - April 2024Traveler

    Home

    April 29, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Reality set in this morning - we needed to get home to make it to tonight's basketball games... so we left Wangaratta at around 8am with just a brief stop to change drivers at a truck stop somewhere 2 hours from Wangaratta and again at Pheasants Nest, arriving home just after 3pm.
    Whilst travelling with friends and seeing this great country is fantastic, we have to pay the bills somehow.... work and school tomorrow and preparation for the KLLAC AGM and Presentation Day next Sunday.

    Who knows when the next adventure will be - for now, it is Port Lincoln in January 2025.

    Stats: 17 days - 5,200 kilometres (3.6k km by car, 559 km by ferries (including Spirit of Tas), 25 sea miles (jet boat at Bernie Island), 22 km by bus (Cradle Mountain), 30 km hiking and 4 km walking, 8,415 photographs (dSLR), and lots of beer, wine, spirits and cheese!    Read more

    Trip end
    April 28, 2024
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