• Zandvoort: Pride at the Beach

    2023年7月31日, オランダ ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Before departing Rotterdam, we placed our luggage in storage at the hotel to explore a bit more of the city. J was adamant he needed a hair cut, since more than a month has flown by since Malaga, when it was done last.

    A suggested a Barber school nearby, but they were fully booked for the week. We stopped in at a nearby salon on our way back. J had a great experience with his stylist as she was very thorough and meticulous. A on the other hand had a speed cut 😲, and didn't dare move due to the stylist going so quickly. A's stylist also gave him a complimentary ear hair removal blow torch treatment...🤯Needless to stay, A left the salon mildly traumatized.😓

    It was a quick train to Zandervoort Aam Zee station . Arriving around 3pm, we were welcomed with the start of their Pride Parade. Our walk to the accommodations took us along the parade route, so we were able to see all the floats; ironically, the Durex condom van brought-up the rear... 🤣 Surprisingly the weather was cooperative for the event; although not sunny, at least it wasn't raining and gusty.

    From the outside, the hotel looked fairly unassuming. However, stepping into the building was a whole different feeling🫨. We were first met with a musty smell. Then, the entry opened into the very-very quirky lobby with its seaside decor and retro furniture. They really liked their pastels and wooden cloud cut-outs (both for decoration and hiding cables), and fake dune grasses. Our room was on the top floor, and the stair case leading up was very steep and narrow; not at all easy to convey large cumbersome luggage... The general feel was that of a movie set combining "Amelie" and "The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel".

    Our room continued with the quirky aged theme only with framed formula 2 racing photos. At least the bathroom had been updated, once you got past the 3" step. Though it's more of a built-in toe stubber for the unexpecting 😭

    We decided to head to the village square where they had a stage setup with music and performances. The celebratory energy and festive spirit was very evident. While walking around the streets you could see many pride flags and banners, and the store fronts all had rainbow themed displays while boasting their wares.

    A found an Italian restaurant near the square, so we were able to dine and enjoy the event. J ordered a "spaghetti with muscles", and A, a pizza. The pasta dish arrived without any muscles, only clams🤔, and you had to pick out the shrapnel of broken shells with mediocre sauce. As usual we shared our meals, but it was A that regretted it most as it gave him a sleepless night and caused his stomach much discomfort for the next 48 hours...

    After dinner we ventured over to the stage and watched the performances while sharing a churros dessert. The performances were great, especially the guest singer. He had a delightful voice and energy, and was great with the kids that joined him to dance on stage.

    We eventually did walk over to the beach, and the wind was insane; felt like walking in a sand blaster at times. A lady and her husband with ice cream cones were attacked by a flock of gulls 🐦. They were successful in toppling her cone and happily devoured the fallen remains. He quickly raced to the cover of a nearby building, saving one of their treats to enjoy 😲
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  • Rotterdam Cycle

    2023年7月30日, オランダ ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Started the day with a leasurely run, and a quick self-serve breakfast at the hotel. We picked up a couple bicycles from the hotel and set out for our day's adventure. Although the hotel was nice enough to provide a tour map, it felt a bit too contrived, so we threw it out the window. 🤠

    J had found a museum on the history of Genever, and this took us over to town of Schiedam. The trip was not long, about 20 minutes on bicycle, but there were some good gusty head winds to overcome. Is that the virtual Dutch hill? The museum building used to be one of the many Genever distilleries, but it required a lot of repair work to bring it back to its glory. The lower level retained the original stills. It was quite fascinating to learn the history of the spirit, how it shaped the area, and how world events affected its trade. We also learnt that milling was very closely tied to the production of Genever, and a separate sister museum was near by, and part of the entry fee! Strangely, no samples as part of the tour 😕
    https://www.jenevermuseum.nl/

    Once we finished reading about the spirited history of the area, we stopped by the windmill museum. It was quite fascinating to find out these mills were built extra tall to rise above the buildings. There used to be 20 mills (now only 7), and they were dedicated to milling grains only for the production of Genever! They had run 24 hours a day, as did many aspects of the genever industry. The mechanisms are primarily wood, with a few metal parts, and the top of the windmill can rotate 360 degrees on rollers to follow the wind. The resident Miller has been working in windmills for 45 years, and very passionate in thier operation.
    https://www.jenevermuseum.nl/museummolen.html

    We headed back along the route we rode earlier, but ducked in to Lloydkwartier, where we had a late lunch by Schiecentrale in the shelter of the building as the wind was impressive. The original building used to be a power generation station that is now an eight building complex of commercial and residential sections, and has some very eccentric perspectives...
    https://schiecentrale.nl/

    Peddling by the Euromast, we found our way to the Maastunnel Noord Fiets- & Voetgangersingang, a pedestrian and bike route tunneled under Nieuwe Maas to the Charlois district. It felt like a trip into a movie set, see the video attached.

    We followed the canal edges to the Katendretch area where the SS Rotterdam, a decommissioned Holland-America cruise ship is permanently berthed as a hotel, restaurant and event space. A local historical group had a display on in the lower deck as part of Holland-America's 150th anniversary. We were lucky as it was only on exhibit for two weeks. They had gathered decades of private memorabilia to showcase.

    The final segment of our bike loop tour took us across Erasmus bridge and around to Markthal. Markthal is a very impressive open building with closed glass ends and many vendor stalls, similar to Grandville island market. We caught a glimpse of the unique Kunstkubus building (yellow cube building).

    The varied architectural elements around Rotterdam are very unique, but not all eye catching in a good way, nor are some practical. Atleast your eyes won't get bored of the many juxtapositions of old and new!

    With the weather looking more and more dreary, decided to return the bicycles, and head out for a hearty dinner. A found a nearby Argentinean Steakhouse, but they were full, so we enjoyed Japanese Ramen and currey instead.
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  • Nederland 🇳🇱 gebonden

    2023年7月29日, オランダ ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The translates to, Netherlands bound 👍

    We were up early to pack the remaining few things and get ready to head to the Netherlands. J took Dubi for a quick walk while A tidied the apartment up. We walked over to the Waller train station, a short 15 minute walk away. The weather cooperate without the forecasted rain. Being a Saturday morning there were definitely larger crowds at Bremer HBF, where we transfered from the regional train.

    Our first leg was on a newer speed train to Osnabruck, reaching speeds of 200km/h! The second leg from Osnabruck to Amsterdam was an older, more spacious, and comfortable train, with speeds up to 130km/h. We sat in the last car, and appreciated the relatively quiet 4 hour journey, although it was mildly stuffy with minimal cool airflow... The last leg between Amsterdam and Rotterdam was a bit grimy, felt like being on the late night drunk bus in Vancouver. 😵‍💫 Not because anyone was noticeable intoxicated, just it was in dire need of a power washing!

    On our arrival to Rotterdam we were greeted with a full-on Carnival festival outside the station; drums, loud music, festive feather costumes, and large dense crowds. We managed to find a spot to cross the parade to get to the hotel. J had read about the festival, but wasn't aware we would be staying so close: two blocks! Even on our 18th floor room we could hear the heart drumbeat of the procession below.

    The afternoon was gorgeous and sunny, so off to explore we went. We briefly entertained the idea of festival street food, but the lines were very long and the crowds too busy, so we moved on. Finding our way to Witte de Withstraat, brought more crowds of a different type. The street had a similar feel of Whyte Ave in Edmonton, but much narrower. We ended up settling on burger joint called Hamburg that J had noticed earlier. It was a cafeteria-eatry style service, pumping out early 2000s tunes.

    Later we headed out to Ferry, one of the many gay bars in Rotterdam. We arrived fairy early, so the line up was short and quick. The clientele was quite diverse, and many seemed to be reviving fashions from the late 80s and 90s.

    On our "early" walk home around midnight we were surprised to see multiple groups of young adults, from the street parade, darting around as if running away from something(police?). A few waves passed us and we were on alert if needing to get away from a mob/riot ⚠️😵‍💫 (Our thought 💭process was likely linked to a shooting 🔫 that happened earlier in the day.)
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  • Bremen

    2023年7月26日, ドイツ ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had a restful week to reorganize and plan after an intense 16 days of self-guided motorcycle riding. A previously found an accommodation in Bremen to dog sit through Trusted House Sitters. Our companion Dubi is an short older male mixed breed, with quite the personality 🙃 He’s described by his owners to be more of a cat stuck in a dog’s body; but more cuddly and at times needy. J explored the immediate neighbourhood through the multitude of daily walks with Dubi.

    Compared to the the recent weeks of travel, Bremen was cooler and had a varied mix of sun, cloud, and rain. We signed up for the local bikeshare to explore more of the city. One trip took us to the downtown Schnoor historic district. There are definitely some tiny and twisted old buildings there, with varying width streets. On the way back we needed to take refuge from a sudden rain shower. A couple days later we biked through some of the city’s forested parks, and around the university; again, had to find cover from another afternoon sky burst. This time our return took us along the river, passing the Weser weir.
    https://second.wiki/wiki/bremer_weserwehr

    We mostly stayed around the Waller area, and found a few neat restaurants. Our first night in Bremer we went to a West African restaurant called Mataa’s Kitchen and shared the two person platter, and opted for the grilled tilapia. We also found Restaurant Almaz serving Persian and Afghan cuisine.

    On our second to last day we ventured to find local roasted coffee. Four locations later we were successful! Llyod coffee has been roasting for 85 years. Bremen was also import for the coffee trade back in the day. Also the beginning of decaf!

    https://www.bremen.eu/tourism/activities/behind…
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  • Schnoor explore

    2023年7月24日, ドイツ ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We signed up for a month's bike-share pass (10€). It's a great deal if you even use it a few times and figured during our week's stay it would be well worth it! Part of the fun is getting to the next station to swap bikes within the free 30-minute window. We soon discovered that though there are many stations, there are not many bikes 🧐 They unfortunately are also poorly maintained 😕

    We ventured to the tiny historic area of downtown. It doesn't take up much space, but also most buildings are tiny. Dating back to the 1600s, I suppose the people weren't that large either 🤣.
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  • Alps Tour - Tirolean Finale

    2023年7月22日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Edelweiss Hotel provided a very delicious and hearty breakfast spread. Once fuelled with goodness and caffeine, we headed out on the last day of our motorcycle tour through the Alps around Austria.

    We thought it’d be nice to head further south to the end of the Pitz valley and capture a glimpse of the Kaunertal glacier. Unfortunately, not even a kilometre away we encountered a toll booth and decided to head north instead!

    We zipped along a fair segment of the roads we had covered the day before, including the Hatntennjoch pass, but in reverse this time. The vistas were just as fantastic a second time, and it was nice to experience the full 360 view of the area. We pulled over briefly for some photos, and put some space between us and some slower moving motorists.

    We left the Lectal (Lech valley) at Stanzbach, and headed east into the Nameloser Tal, boasting more spectacular scenery and views, very peaceful and quiet too. Eventually we had a minor descent into the Rotlechtal that had a well-developed ski area around Berwang.

    Once back at the main highway we regrouped and realized the next section of the trip would be ending soon, so A added on an additional loop just south of where we were to return the motorbikes. Our path eventually lead us off the main road back onto the small side roads, and eventually through Fernpass. As we approached the turnoff to Fernpass we noticed the eastbound traffic was backed up as far as we could see. Not sure what was causing the massive traffic congestion, but it was backed up all the way into the pass. Our lane came to a stop a couple of times, but that was due to on-coming motorists doing a u-turn from their lane. Fernpass was pretty, but not as epic as other passes we traversed, or as leisurely with all the congestion...

    We did eventually come upon the more touristy part of the pass where hikers and bikers alike were enjoying the trails, and lots of campers getting settled. We got a glimpse of (Schloß) Fernstein Castle, built in the 11th century, and further developed in the 12th century.
    https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burg_Fernstein

    Turning east once again, though the Oberinntal, we noticed another hilltop castle, Burg Klamm (https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burg_Klamm).

    We passed Mötz and continued south, meandered our way over the Silzer Sattel pass. This added section of switch-backs and views made up for lethargic (traffic congestion) Fernpass. We passed a number of locals harvesting and cleaning up the dead fall from the earlier wind storm. Even then you could see whole slopes denuded of trees as we descended the steep gulley.

    We finally reached the end of the trip by early afternoon, and began to strip the bikes of belongings, and repack our luggage. We called a local taxi, suggested by Edelweiss Bikes, and caught the regional train from Mötz to Innsbruck. Innsbruck has two stations... so we may have briefly got off at the first one 🤣, and hopped on to the next train to get to the correct station.

    Not wanting to venture too far with all our luggage we settled on a piecemeal dinner at MPRES grocery store, in the train station. Talk about interesting people watching, akin to what your might see at Walmart...

    Once we finished enjoying our beers, salad and half of a BBQ'd chicken, we made our way up to the platform and boarded our Nightjet train to Hannover, and on to Bremen, Germany for our next adventure.
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  • Alps Tour - Back to Austria

    2023年7月21日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Our day started like most days on the trip, with the exception that it was raining in bursts. Thankfully the overpowering scent of the spread manure had been washed away.

    The hotel breakfast selection was very impressive and the seating area quite grandeur. Most guests were in their mid-70s to mid-80s.

    For the first time on the trip, we started off wearing our rain gear, and wore it all day. It stopped raining early on, but between the cool overcast weather and damp roads we figured it more practical to leave it on.

    Leaving Oberstdorf around 9:30, we snaked our way further north through the light rain and various construction zones. The first pass of the day was Oberjockpass. Definitely a windy section of road up, but not much elevation gain. We took it easy due to the very wet roads. Nothing makes a day slower than an incident 🙃

    Eventually we started heading west with a quick stop at a view point over looking market-town Nasselwang. Soon we were back in Austria, and found our way to the town of Ruette where we zig-zaged back towards the mountains.

    Another quick stop, this time for fuel in a little town of Elmen, just before the turn off to the next mountain pass of the day. This time there was definitely more elevation gain. Not too many vehicles on the road heading in our direction, but lots of oncoming traffic. We enjoyed the winding switchbacks up to Hahntennjoch pass. The clouds were high enough up that we were able to see a decent glimpse of the area.

    The decent was as fun as the accent with all the twists and turns down in the the far valley. Passing through the town of Imst, traffic was a bit more choatic, but we managed to navigate through it.

    We carried on through to the wooded nature park to the village of Kaus where we noticed a couple of castles. One was across the valley, much farther west, on a rocky spine of a ridge; Berg Laudegg. We drove by the other, Burg Berneck, built in the early 13th century.
    https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burg_Berneck_(T…

    Finally arriving in Feichten im Kaunertal by mid-afternoon. The Edelweiss Hotel was a lovely find after a lot of searching for something last minute without a big cost.

    On our ride in we spotted an impressive set of stairs above town, by a waterfall. Our riding gear swapped out for walking shoes we went to check it out. To our surprise there was a turnstile for admission! No coin-operation here, it was a QRscanner and instructions how to by the ticket online 🤣. Not to be out done by technology, A stumbled through it. The hotel didn't mention about a tourist card like other hotels offer, which provided a discount. Imagination for the required 9-digit code was successful 👍 the walk up was nice, and we enjoyed the loop back down on a quiet gravel road. A quick sauna and steam at our hotel before dinner was in order.

    The family run Pension shows the love and efforts. The dinner offering was delicious and wonderful service even with the language challenge. They didn't seem to mind that we had started with the salad bar instead of doing it mid-course. To cap off the dinner we sampled a splash of the proprietor's Gin. It was nice but not delicious enough to purchase a bottle for the road.
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  • Alps Tour - Northwards to Germany

    2023年7月20日, ドイツ ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Although the storms seemed to have moved on, and the sun was out, it was by no means warm. We headed out at 9:30 in a fresh 15C.

    Winding our way into the first pass of the day towards St. Christoph am Arlberg, with a height of 1793m.
    https://www.stantonamarlberg.com/en/the-region-…

    The section of road leading to the Flexen pass, towards Zurs, was mostly constructed on the edge of the mountain through numerous tunnels and snowsheds. It appeared the snowshed retaining walls were quite old, and the roofs constructed later, either way they emitted an intreguing mustiness.

    We passed at least a half dozen ski areas, some towns were bustling with multi-season purpose, while others were quite literally shuttered for the summer.

    We reached Warth and took a spur route east, just for the ride. The valley towards Steeg was magnificent, and a u-turn near Kleinburg sent us back to Warth, and on our way deeper into Bavaria.

    Being such a brisk morning, we decided to stop for a quick coffee, and enjoy a warm homemade apple strudel in Schrocken. With the temperature still around 15C, decided to add the jacket liners as the chill was setting in.

    Finally reaching the far valley, we meandered along the highway till we intersected with Schnepfau, and took a narrow winding road over to Bezau before getting back on the highway.

    Another side route took us into Scharzenberg, were we fueled up the bikes, and removed the extra layers added earlier; it was now quiet warm out, around 20C. A helped an older gentleman whom was having issues with the self-pay at the pump. Though language was a barrier, enough button mashing did the trick. He happily went on his way, including the open flap for his filler 🤣

    Getting nearer to our night's destination, we rode through Riedbergpass. The road resembled more of a mildly accordioned snake with its back-to-back curves slithering through the gulley along the mountain's edge. There wasn't much traffic, and it was so much fun, we decided to do the eastern section twice, by doubling back!

    Finally arrived in Oberstdorf mid-afternoon. Once checked in, unpacked, and rested, we went for a short walk to explore the downtown area. There was a fair bit of bustle and activity, and looked as though an upcoming event was being set up.

    Back at the hotel, we enjoyed the late afternoon sun in solitude by the outdoor pool.

    We decided against doing the hotel buffet dinner; still a little scared from the last buffet dinner... So we wandered in to town to see what was available. Weirdly enough a couple of the places weren't even open for dinner service, and most looked like tourist traps. Settled on a place near the hotel that A had reviewed earlier.

    As the sun faded and the evening descended, we were met with the rising strong and overpowering odor of freshly applied manure (commonly used to top dress the surrounding fields) in our hotel room... 🤢 We had left the windows open for fresh air, and were basically suffocated by the aroma. Wee!
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  • Alps Tour - Landlocked Cruise Ship 🛳️

    2023年7月19日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After our breakfast experience at this resort hotel, we determined it was basically a landlocked cruise ship: trapped in the mountains! Sub-par quality marketed as luxury 😔. Italy is known for its coffee, well not here... Up to this point we've occasionally had coffee from an automated machine, but you always heard the grinding of fresh beans. Here the main ingredients were instant coffee, likely powdered milk, and water 😭. We were very happy to be leaving after only one night's stay.

    For the most part the morning was looking promising with the sun making an appearance. However, after retracing the few kilometres back to the main road, we noticed the sky was very, very dark to the west. 🌫️

    Stopped in one of the many villages for fuel, and A decided he wasn't adequately caffeinated after the crap coffee at the hotel, which we couldn't even drink. Pretty nice when a gas station cafe trumps the four star resort. With the impending rain, we hurried on. Barely making it to the outskirts of Merano, we took refuge in the cover of an underpass to put on our rain gear. Another couple riders passing by took our cue to do the same. Unfortunately for the one friendly fellow from South Africa, he didn't have much with him let alone rain gear. What do you expect when you choose to ride in a tank top and Jean shorts 🤣

    The rain abated before too long, and we were able to enjoy the remainder of the Passeier valley, and up to the Timmelsjoch pass between Italy and Austria. The clouds cleared enough to get some great photos. A few hairpins and a short tunnel later we were in Austria again.

    An intense storm must have passed through the southwestern area of Austria as small pocketed swaths of trees were layed flat all over the place. We encountered a number of construction zones with crews removing downed trees along the road. The forest carnage looked very similar to Stanley Park (Vancouver) in December 2006...

    Eventually we rode in to St Anton am Arlberg for our evening stay. The ride was a bit longer than expected due to an unexpected road closure detour. Our accommodations at Landhaus Albert Murray was very cozy and quaint (with some modern flair) historical 100 year old B&B.

    We noticed a waterfall across the way and ventured for an after hike. This included following goggle map directions and needing to J-walk on a recently decommissioned crosswalk over the main road/highway🚶🙃

    For dinner we found a restaurant with a small but varied menu close by. While enjoying dinner on the patio, the local marching band, performing Wednesday nights during the summer, passed by. They were lucky to wrap thier set up in the square just before the rain stayed to fall again.
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  • Alps Tour - Tunnels, dams & passes

    2023年7月18日, イタリア ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Another gorgeous morning, and a cozy breakfast in the hotel dinning room. On the the road by 10:30, leasurely following the Lago di Livigno reservoir into Switzerland. Livigno must be where all the athletes train for the road: multiple groups of cyclists, speed walkers, and joggers.

    We realized, again after the fact, that our route was taking us through another tolled tunnel, Mautstelle Munt La Schera Tunnel. This time the tunnel was single lane, and traffic light🚦controlled. Luckily we didn't wait too long, but there was a fair line of opposing traffic waiting upon emerging. It felt like we were going into a war era bunker, but thankfully there was a wee light in the distance that finally grew larger 💡

    Loved the wide sweeping roads that lead through Fuorn Pass (Ofenpass), and along the southern portion of the Swiss Alps. Eventually we arrived in Santa Maria where we headed south to Umbrail Pass, and back into Italy. A short climb east took us to Passo Stelvio. It appeared to be a full on festival of some sort with a market set up, and people all over the place; pretty chaotic to navigate through the crowd. We stopped a couple switchbacks later for photos and to enjoy the distant glaciers and vistas.

    The following decent was pretty epic with so many tight switchbacks and corners. We didn't get held up too often by slow moving vehicles, and managed to find a few good passing locations. Zoom!

    We could definitely feel the increase in temperature, from our preferred mid-20s in the mountains, as we neared the lower wide open valleys. Initially it was 30C,but at the afternoon wore on it got up to 34C. Just before the final stretch to the hotel, we stopped for a few food and drink items. We got turned around a few times due to more construction and detours, but eventually got back on track.

    As we rode deeper into the mountain valley, the darker the clouds became. We felt a few rain splatters and heard distant thunder with the brewing storm. No sooner had we arrived and unpacked the motorcycles, the storm broke. It was a complete deluge, with visible waves within the rain dancing down from the sky.

    The hotel wasn't much to look at from the outside, but the interior had been recently updated. Our stay also offered a lot in the way of cultural experiences. For one we recieved a lot of intense stares and looks, especially in the pool when we where unaware of an unspoken rule to wear water caps in the water! A very disgruntled man came over and gave us attitude until the lifeguard informed us we needed them🤷‍♂️. The pool is free, but cap rental 3€ 🤣.

    So we left, then tried out the spa area for a hot soak and sauna, again, more stares and looks... Oh, and they wanted us to wear swimware in the hot tub, but not in the saunas, and please sit on a towel; an interesting unisex quasi-nude affair. It would be less confusing if we just used our birthday suits everywhere 👼

    Dinner was just as "entertaining." We arrived at 7pm for the start of the buffet service. Everyone gets a reserved table, and ours was off in the corner, next to the actively accessed service closet where the servers were getting water and wine refills. It was also apparent that personal space isn't observed, as on numerous occasions at the buffet, people would reach infront of you to grab a plate or food item.

    With so many people, the dining area got quite warm and stuffy. We decided to go for a walk to get some fresh air to cool down and walk off some over indulgence. It was very nice outside after storms had passed.

    Our day's tour:
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-XrgM755BTU
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  • Passo Dello Stelvio

    2023年7月18日, イタリア

    We were surprised to see some photographers in a couple corners taking everyone's pictures. Their website name was posted and we downloaded them 👍

  • Alps Tour - Tirol to Lombardy

    2023年7月17日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The most fabulous breakfast spread in the very contemporary restaurant of the hotel! All in all a very enjoyable and comfortable stay at the Steiner! Already you could feel the heat at 9:30 as we rolled out for the day's journey.

    We meandered south for a bit in between vineyards and orchards (skinny trees, row after row, closely planted) before hitting the next valley over and traverse more northward. The whole area is very productive with acres on acres of cultivation.

    We noticed a few Medieval ruins that dotted various hillsides. The ruin that really stood out was an old castle on a rocky jut in Ossana, Castel San Michele o Castello di Ossana.
    https://it.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castello_di_San…

    It was a very noticeable difference between South Tirol and Lombardy provinces. For one, the building style was very much what you'd expect to see in Italy. Many of the buildings in the more rural and mountain villages were between three and five stories of rough unfinished rock exteriors, and the only colour was the painted shutters and flower pots. The other difference was the lack of a police-state feel with confusing speed zone signage, and radar enforced speed zones.

    As we moved more north towards Switzerland in Lombardia, you could see the Swiss-German influences of the alpine villages once again. The resort town of Livigno, where we arranged to stay for the night, had a very energetic and open feel to it; it was busy enough, but not chaotic or too crowded. Quite a mixture of mostly older historic buildings, with the newer ones blending in. The hotel conjoined two older buildings with a blended modern contemporary look mixed with the rock and wood of the old. Our room was tiny, and situated in the attic of an older wooden building; very cozy, and a bit nostalgic for J as it reminded him of the old ranch house back home.

    After taking a moment to rest and decompress, we decided to go for a walk down the main street and see what culinary delights were available. A had his heart set on pasta, and found La Mirage, near the end of the street. The food was delicious, but again, a very heavy on the salt... We also enjoyed a good helping (1L) of the house white wine with dinner 🍷 https://maccarivini.it/it/prodotto/3591/

    Our day's Tour:
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-ydEhPkIJJ3
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  • Alps Tour - Napoleon Dolomites

    2023年7月16日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We left our hotel in Keins by 9:30. Another police car was setup in the same spot as the day before, and randomly pulling vehicles in. Quick stop for some fuel in Bruneck, then off to explore the Dolomites!

    Traffic was pretty dense again, and it was a slow roll. Between summer holidays and the fact it was Sunday probably didn't help. We eventually got off the main road, and things began to moved along at a more enjoyable pace.

    We stopped for a photo at Durrensee, it was a pretty amazing view, very similar to Jasper Park. A young Italian couple pulled up on a motorcycle next to us. He couldn't have been more than 5'6", and was barely stablizing the bike on his tip-toes as she climbed off and on. He didn't even pull off the road to park, even using a bit of a crosswalk 🤣.

    We traversed three of the four Dolomite passes. Lots of twists, switch-backs, and vistas to be had. Surprisingly, the roads are only open May through October, but there were a few sections under repair with single lane controlled traffic. On one of the valley straightaways we noticed a police jeep in the distance... Surprise, surprise, we got flagged over! They were very polite, and wanted to see ID and registration this time. Soon we were on our way again. The whole area is quite developed, and a multitude of chairlifts and gondolas criss-crossing the valleys.

    Eventually we had to leave the mountains, and head for the valley leading towards Bolzano. It was a crispy 36C, and felt like driving into a hair dryer.. 🥵

    Thankfully the final stretch of our route took us on a goat trail of a road into the forest and over the mountain, and away from the congested traffic of Bolzano.

    Our hotel in Leifer was pretty swanky, and contemporary. A was quick to get the A/C in our room going, but it never really had the cooling effect we were hoping for; definitely better than nothing!

    We decided on a quiet evening, and located a pizzeria just a couple blocks away, so we ordered take-out using whatsapp! A five minute walk in the heat was all we needed. Upon our return to the cool hotel room we devoured the two flavours with some local red wine, and a movie on the iPad; it was too hot to be outside on our large balcony...

    Our ride,
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-3g2r6BDkMF
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  • Alps Tour - Austria ➡️ Italy

    2023年7月15日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Another gorgeous morning awaited us. That said, even in the mountains we could feel the heat start to build. Just a quick trip north into Bruck for fuel and we were on our way for the day.

    We had previously passed through this section of highway on the start of our Alps tour, but we veered south at Mittersill, bound for Italy this time. Unbeknownst to us, our route included another tunnel through the base of a mountain range to pass between Salzburg and East Tyrol provinces, with a length of 5.3km! Only this time there was a toll on the other side 🤷‍♂️

    https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Felbertauerntunnel

    We spent a lot more time on highways today. Eventually, we headed east away from the holiday and weekend traffic on the Defereggentalstraße. The main road stayed mostly in the valley, with the exception of a side trip up the north valley side. Eventually our route took us through a section of switch-backs and into the alpine of the Staller Saddle, then Italy. The Italian side of this pass is single lane, and traffic controlled with alternating directions every 15 mins. We lucked out being the last motorists heading down before the light changed. We had the whole decent to ourselves as we did not catch up to anyone else!

    The Italian side seemed very reminiscent of the Austrian side; all the signage is in German, and the architecture is very similar in style. This is not surprising as many locals feel the region was wrongfully annexed by Italy in 1919 after the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Apparently world powers at the time decided to appease the Italians, who wanted control south of Brenner pass in the Alps. For the better part of a century political coercion and cultural bullying occurred until the region of South Tyrol was given autonomy in the 1970s.

    We tootled along our route, being careful to watch the multiple speed zone changes. Suddenly we were flagged to pull over by the local police waiting on the side of the road. Not much occurred other than them asking to see our ID, and send us on our way!?🤔 This wasn't a surprise to A, only that it hadn't happened earlier in the trip.

    The last few kilometres to get to the hotel were a bit agonizing due to a snail's pace high traffic volume through an inactive construction zone. The heat made it that much worse, so we leap-frogged a couple times to get the air flow.

    Finally arrived at our destination, only to find that A/C wasn't available in our room. Luckily the room was cool enough, and a reprieve from the outdoor heat at 34C. We also faced east, and the wind was blowing intensely.

    The half-board that came with the stay was fantastic. The usual salad bar, then the starter of zucchini and shrimp risotto, followed by English roast beef, and a strawberry and chocolate rotolo dessert. One of us may have happily accepted the offer of a second plate of the roast beef 😜
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  • Alps Tour - Großglockner & Nockalmstraße

    2023年7月14日, オーストリア ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Our breakfast was a similar experience as our dinner; not entirely sure how much was supposed to be self-serve, and what actions would cue the server to offer something. All in all a nice yet quirky stay.

    All packed up and headed for the Nockalmstraße pass by 1030. We lucked out as our hotel stay provided a complimentary local activity-pass card. Turns out, it included the toll for our first road, bonus!

    The trip through Nockalmstraße was definitely worth it, the distant vistas and scenery were fantastic. Nice that the road wasn't too busy despite a number of tourists about. We also saw lots of cattle grazing along the way.

    The trip over the mountains didn't take too long. We then weaved our way through the country side to the Großglockner pass toll road. Weirdly enough, we noticed a lot of patches of dead trees along the valley, similar to the pine beetle kill back home...

    Our activity card we used earlier didn't get us a free toll pass, but we did get a slight discount. There were a lot more people on the road here, and there was quite a range between slow and fast drivers. At one point we just pulled over and let a large group of motorbikers pass prior to the toll booth. It is strange being passed in the left of our lane with no prior warning. ⚠️🤔

    Took a minor detour over to see the Pasterze Glacier and it was definitely worth it. Some of the mountain peaks were hidden behind cloud, but otherwise it was clear and sunny, offering a lot of great photo opportunities.

    The Pasterze Glacier is the largest and longest glacier of the Eastern Alps, and the
    ninth-largest of the Alps overall.
    At an average speed of 15m per year the ice in this valley glacier takes about 560 years to travel the total length of 8.4km, while covering an altitude difference of about 1,600m.

    We hadn't had any luck securing our evening accomodation, so thought to play it by chance. On the way to the glacier view point we noticed a few places that might work. We enquired, and only one had availability. A got suspicious as to why it was so quite and such a great price. Quickly checking the reviews said it all, and we drove off...

    The rest of the Großglockner pass was just as magnificent. Lots of twisty roads, view points to pull off on, and tunnels to traverse. Many road cyclists too!

    It was close to 6pm by the time we emerged on the other side of the pass, and settled on a hotel in Fusch. Luckily they weren't too pricey. Later we found out the area had been a gold mining area, but rapid advancing of the glaciers in the 1850s pushed the industry out.

    We took some time to relax, and got right into planning tomorrow's adventure: off to Northern Italy! Soon after, we headed down for dinner at the hotel restaurant where A enjoyed a grity/sandy salad with delicious breaded chicken strips, and J had the roasted boeuf with spatzle and very salty beans.

    As the sun finished its course of the day we enjoy the darkness enveloping the cozy valley.
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  • Alps Tour - Here Comes the Rain!

    2023年7月13日, オーストリア ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    After a simple breakfast we were out and on the road by 9am. We wanted to get ahead of the promised impending storm. Decided to take the fun route instead of the direct route to Villach, where we had found a laundromat!! Yes, there are not many anywhere in this country 🙃

    It was a brisk and fresh morning(16c), with sun for the most part, but gradually darkened with the clouds moving on. For the second day in a row we took things easy, as the roads were quite damp and a lot of debris and gravel from the early morning thunderstorm.

    More meandering roads through mostly forests and valleys. Some road sections were pretty rough, and in dire need of repair. Early on in the day we passed through the town of St Lambrecht and noticed a very large church complex that turned out to be Benedictine Abbey of St. Lambrecht, founded in the 11th century.

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Lambert&#03…

    Somewhere around this time J noticed a burning sensation on the upper-inner thigh. Turns out a bee had hit him, and managed to sting through multiple layers of cloth, including his riding jeans!

    Although Villach is the 7th largest centre in Austria, navigating through town was much more relaxing than previous city centres. Managed to find the laundromat without too much trouble, and enjoyed a coffee and tiramisu at the next door cafe while the laundry washed.

    Arriving at the alpine resort town of Bad Kleinkirchheim, and not a moment too soon, as a sudden rain burst happened right after we unpacked the bikes and were inside. The rain didn't take too long, but we continued to hear thunder in the distance for a while.

    Since we decided to bypass the ridiculously priced dryers at the laundromat, we proceeded to drape the damp clothing about our room. The hairdryer did a fine job to assist the process, so proceeded to dry our clothes that way. 🥳

    Our hotel booking included the half-board, three course dinner. Definitely an interesting cultural experience guessing how they do the service. Turns out you need to get your own soup and salad from the buffet (which A is not a fan of because of the germs...), then you are asked if you'd like the next meal plating. 😂🥗

    With a full belly, we decided to relax in the spa area and take advantage of the special late night saunas and pool.
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  • Alps Tour - A Good Hare Day

    2023年7月12日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We were awoken in the early morning by a thunder shower. Finally, after a couple evenings of menacing clouds, the fury of the heavens was finally released. Luckily by the time we roused for the day the storm had passed. J enjoyed watching the birds hop and bath in the puddles outside the hotel window.

    The hotel breakfast spread rivaled that of the hotel in Grein, and set the day with sufficiently full bellies.

    The day's route headed south, and flirted with the foothills in Slovenia. Any deeper would have added hours to the journey through rugged mountain ranges.

    A quick stop for fuel turned in to a wardrobe change as the clouds returned, and unleashed more showers. Nothing too violent, but enough to cause a good drenching, but we were dry.

    Our day started and ended in the Styrian province of Austria, while briefly entering Carinthia. It is interesting to note that the church steeples in Carinthia are much simpler, as with the bell ringing, than in Tyrol and the other northern Austrian provinces.

    While in province Carinthia we encountered a Billy bi-colored goat crossing the road and a hare running on the shoulder of the road. In a last minuet dash the Hare passed before A's front bike tire and narrowly escaped.

    We went through a couple of interesting towns. The first being Diex where J noticed the church wasn't like the rest, it looked very old, and appeared fortified. Further readings found that it was established in the early 1100s.
    https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pfarrkirche_Diex
    The next town of Eberstein had a castle (but not the original castle) perched on a rocky mass in the middle of town called Schloss Eberstein.
    https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schloss_Eberste…

    We finally arrived in the late afternoon to Gasthof Jera which was perfectly situated in the countryside on the southend of a lake, Furtnerteich. Sadly the place looked a bit tired and in need of repairs; you had to watch your step on the balcony of the room due to broken/rotting boards... Once checked in and settled, set out for a refreshing swim. The warm water and the waning afternoon sun was a perfect combination. The lake was fairly busy with various age groups. It was nice to see such communal interaction of apparent strangers, and yet everyone was respectful of their space without being loud and obnoxious.

    To finish the day we enjoyed outdoor dining on pizza and pasta. Eventually the evening sun was blotted out by clouds, with distant rumbles of thunder...
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  • Alps Tour - Head for the hills!

    2023年7月10日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Although we went down for the Gusthof 7:30 breakfast service, our day started much later than expected. The original accommodation and route previously planned was scrapped due to the unexpected heatwave! We needed to ride to a hotel with AC, which most don't.

    Once again enjoying the cool solitude of the hotel courtyard balcony, we found a hotel with A/C and a pool, a bit further south, but near Vienna. We decided to head south across the Danube on a twisty route more in the mountains and forests to avoid the heat of the day.

    The roads were a perfect balance of twisty mountain switch-backs and sweeping forested valleys with babbling streams. We passed through a number of industrious towns separated by long stretchs of uninterrupted riding.

    We definitely felt the heat on the final few kilometres once we started to meander through the vineyards to our final destination.

    Wow, Hotel Landhaus Moserhof is a gem! A bit more fancy than we need, but the room was cool like a fridge! Once settled we headed down to the cozy garden pool to cool off and relax.

    Before dinner we explored a few blocks of old town of Gumpoldskirchen. Vineyards right next to town. A map search for a wine store revealed that they have a few vending machines, open 24/7!

    Our hotel does not serve dinner, and most restaurants near us close Mondays. We ventured for a 20 minute walk out of the old town. The BBQ restaurant was calling my name! We had a great server, and delicious food. The walk back to the hotel was much needed.
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  • Alps Tour - Charming Czechia

    2023年7月9日, チェコ共和国 ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    A much earlier start to the day today. We arrived promptly for Gasthof-Pension Silvia's 8am breakfast service, then headed on our way by 9. Our day's route took us a short ride down a twisting forest road where we were surprised with a ferry crossing the Danube River over to the village of Untermuhl. The whole area was already quite busy with droves of cyclists.

    We criss-crossed the country side through little farming villages, endless fields, and patches of forests. Most of our journey, once we entered Czechia, was along various waterways. We noticed a lot of people beating the heat by floating down Vltava river. Eventually we found ourselves in the historic Medieval town of Cesky Krumlov, Czechia. After a brief break, we eventually we wove ourselves a detour around snarled traffic including using an old road (turned pedestrian path) and past a lumber mill and back onto the main road 🙃. Onwards down to Grein, next to the Danube, for our evening stay.

    It was very refreshing when we arrived at Goldenes Cruz as the protected courtyard was shaded and cool. Once settled in, and showered, we ventured out to walk around Grein. We stopped for dinner at a restaurant next to the river; good location, mediocre food, and questionable service... 🤔

    The evening was relaxing enjoying the self-serve beverages (honor system) on the courtyard balcony, with the sparrows chirping and darting about.

    https://www.hotel-in-grein.at/hotel/
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  • Alps Tour - Fields & Forests

    2023年7月8日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Feeling well rested after the previous stressful day, A made coffee with the beans we picked at the coffee roaster in Innsbruck; delicious!

    A also discovered the update he was trying to push on to the Garmin GPS didn't complete during the night; the joys of slow rural internet... Once the updates completed, with hopes the previous day issues would be resolved, we headed down for a buffet breakfast. We also got to witness the "run of the gondolas". Apparently they put the gondolas away every night. 🤔

    Once checked out, we back tracked a bit and headed north to Salzburg. An hour later we were enjoying a coffee and lemon pastry next to the walls of Fortress Hohensalzburg!

    Venturing on, the navigation App A used for finding twisty, and off the beaten path routes, didn't disappoint! However, many of the instructed turn-offs caused some skepticism as they looked more like driveways for homes, not roadways. It was another warm day in the low 30s 🥵 Don't stop too long in the sunbeams, or its roasting.

    Venturing on, our path happened to lead us through Mattighofen, past the KTM Motohall. They were featuring a Dakar racing display. No idea that KTM was Austrian.

    We were enamoured with the endless rolling hills of corn, grains, and other agricultural productivity. We thoroughly enjoyed the occasional reprieve from the heat in the the cool forests with seemingly endless curved roads.

    A decided not to pre-book accommodations, and leave some things to chance, but always with a fall back option. Plan-B never happened, and we were very impressed with the first option. We arrived at Gusthof Silvia pension, and were greeted by Barking Deer that they farm. The room was comfortable, and dinner amazing. Very quaint and comfortable country setting to say the least.

    Amazing video for this local business:
    https://tv1.nachrichten.at/oberösterreich/sendu…

    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-iIonEDMP3l
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  • Alps Tour - Untermieming to Abtenau

    2023年7月7日, オーストリア ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    An adventure always starts out with an adventure, right?! Despite the best plans and intentions, anything is possible 🙈. As expected technology only adds to the fray…

    We woke up early to catch the bus to Untermieming to pick up our rented motorcycles. However, when all the busses have similar numbers and arrive at same time, you may find yourself going to unintended places. Luckily J was watching google maps and discovered the "errors in their ways". A quick bus ride back, and an hour later, the original plans began to unfold.

    After a much longer than anticipated time getting the bikes sorted, found numerous navigational issues uploading preplanned routes to the Garmin GPS unit. We had to pull over a number of times to verify our intended route was going to plan. We’re not sure how anyone in Europe can read the posted signage, we found it quite confusing! After a few extra detours getting through Innsbruck, and avoiding tolled motorways, we finally settled into enjoying the ride.

    We passed through many villages, and were impressed with how clean, orderly, and well maintained everything looked. And the various routes were bustling with productivity of all the local farmers. You could say the farmers were having a "hay day"!

    We made a quick stop in Strass, at the Gasthof Hotel Post for a late lunch. It's interesting ordering food as it isn't always what you think you are getting. Our order of what we thought was a bun, sausage, and saurkrat was a plater of sliced baloney with slightly picked onion drizzled in a light vinegar and a bun on the side 🤣

    Many hair-pins and straight-aways later found our way in to Abtenau, a rural resort community outside Salzburg. We arrived in time too as the kitchen closed at 8pm! Veggie Burger and Lamb chops 😋

    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-ZPG3h8Anpl
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  • Exploring Innsbruck

    2023年7月6日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Woke up to a gorgeous, fresh, sunny morning. We were surprised as the forecast wasn’t looking promising. The mountain summits were all cloaked in cloud… so there went the idea of taking the gondola up to look at the valleys beyond.

    A quick coffee at home, and we headed out to explore. First stop was the SPAR grocery where we picked up some delicious pastries for breakfast, and snacks for later. A found a motorcycle store just a few blocks away, and thought it prudent to buy rain pants to cover his vented motorcycles pants, considering all the rain we just had. Luckily they had a 15% off store wide sale, and J bought some waterproof gloves too. Not so lucky finding a wonderful pair of boots. Hope the vented boots that were packed do the trick. 🤞

    A also noticed there were bike share/rental stations around town, and they were associated with the app we signed up with in Ibiza. So we grabbed a couple bikes to explore Innsbruck. The trail system for pedestrians and cyclists is pretty extensive and impressive!

    Arriving back in the old district, Innenstadt, found our way to Maria-Theresien-Strabe, a wide pedestrian area where we found a quick late lunch. The hot kebap donair sandwiches hit the spot. As we started making our way back, a subtle shift in the atmosphere was occurring, and the sky began to look menacing. A few heavy drops had everyone scurrying for cover. We waited out the downpour with a perfectly placed bubble tea store.

    Ended our day in Innsbruck with a scrumptious meal at a less traditional fare restaurant. We were going to do a cafeteria at a fancy grocery store that reminded us of Whole Foods, but they only served lunch. So we found Glorious Bastards for burger and salad, with local brews too.
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  • Butterflies and waterfalls

    2023年7月4日, スイス ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    The last day of our Swiss experience. A pretty relaxing and gorgeous day, although the forecast mentioned some showers that never precipitated.

    Decided to go for a relaxing walk around the northern part of Zermatt, then follow the trail along the train track towards Tasch. We saw some amazing slopes, broken by waterfalls and dotted with bushes and wild meadow flowers; the pollinators were busy!

    It got warmer than expected, despite a very steady breeze. We decided to grab a few items from the grocery store for our last dinner and head back to our accommodations.

    Time to pack up for our next adventure Austria, here we come!
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  • Furi-Hangebrucke Hike

    2023年7月3日, スイス ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The day started off looking a bit dreary, but the sun soon came out. We were looking into hiking trails in the area, and came upon a loop hike near Ronda, a short train ride north. The loop included a suspension bridge, being the longest in the Alps at 494m. The logistics and efforts to get there were more than we had planned.

    So, Plan B! Luckily there is another suspension bridge much closer at Furi, just up the mountain from Zermatt. The loop in total was just over 8km, with the bridge being 100m long, and 90m above the Gorner Gorge. Along the trail we read up on some the local history on information boards. Apparently the Gorner Glacier advanced rapidly in the late 1860s during a mini ice age, destroying one alpine village, and coming very close to Furi.

    On the return portion of the loop we spotted at a convenient picnic table for a refreshing lunch picnic.

    We meandered back through town to our accommodations where we sampled different flavours of the local brew. A delectable dinner again on our monster deck 😋

    https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-ch/experiences…
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  • Gornergrat Greatness

    2023年7月2日, スイス ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    We were greeted with a gorgeous morning. The sun was up and the birds were singing. A fair bit of hustle and bustle out on the streets many were out early to go hiking, or whatever their intended day's activity.

    We woke up at our usual time despite going to bed a bit earlier than usual. Surprisingly we were not as stiff and sore as was anticipated.

    After enjoying a yummy simple breakfast, A put together a picnic lunch and we set out to explore the area a bit more. Our race passes gave us free admission to the mountain train, so we decided to head back up to Gornergrat to enjoy the views we were too exhausted to enjoy yesterday.

    The views were amazing, but we were unable to see the Matterhorn due to swirling clouds around the summit. Despite a forecast of 4C at the top of the mountain, we found the sun rays very intense. A used his jacket to cover his knees, and still they got a bit pink. The picnic lunch was perfect while we were entertained by wandering tourists 🤣

    We decided to hike down to the next train platform at Rotenboden. The landscape was dotted in alpine flowers. A enjoyed capturing it, flowers, vistas, and all.

    Once the train reached Zermatt, we headed up to CERVO Mountain Resort to use our free beer vouchers! It was a bit of a hike up but worth the trip. We sat on the terrace lounge under shade sails hoping for a view of the Matterhorn, still elusive in clouds. Their Huntsman beer and lounge atmosphere was perfect. Quite a few other runners trickled in for their brews too, though I think we were the only ones to order some fries and a second beer 🍻🍟😋

    We then walked back across town to our accommodation to prepare another cheese fondue dinner. 😁
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