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  • Hari 70

    Valley of the Temples, Sicily

    2 Juni 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We sadly departed Ortigia to drive to our next location. We have heard lots of bad stories about driving in Sicily and we were pleasantly surprised with our drive today. The roads are so much better than we expected however the Sicilians do not obey the speed signs - EVER. They are just there for decoration. We are just hoping there won’t be a speeding ticket for us when we get home as it was keep up or get off the roads.

    On our way to Selinunte we stopped at the Valle dei Templi, Valley of the Temples, an archaeological site in Agrigento. It is one of the most outstanding examples of ancient Greek art and architecture, and is one of the main attractions of Sicily.

    The Valley includes remains of seven temples, all in Doric style and were all established in 5th century BC. Once again we have been blown away by the history of this country, the fact these temples are still standing and that we can have access to them. With the brilliant blue sky, the temple remains stand proud and the site has been well laid out and is very informative.

    In front of the Temple of Concordia is the Statue of Icarus, donated by the Polish sculptor Igor Mitoraj. The statue represents the fall of Icarus, who disobeyed his father Daedalus, flew too close to the sun, burnt his wax wings and fell into the Mediterranean. It is similar to the one in front of the Tower of Pisa, but this one of the full body of Icarus, in all his glory. A group of older female tourists lined up to have their photos taken next to his appendage. It is quite an odd site considering the location. The statue seems fitting but not the photo opportunity it presents.

    We didn’t have time to do the full site but managed to see a few temples and other historic sites before hitting the road for our next destination. This is such an impressive site and one of the reasons we chose to hire a car and drive. We are so happy with our decision to do so.
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  • Hari 69

    Lazy Lunch in Ortigia, Sicily

    1 Juni 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We had a lazy day today as we know we will have a few busy days ahead once we hit the road. We wandered the streets some more, I bought some lovely ceramic cacti (I am obsessed) and I even bought a fabric cactus in a pot. Not sure how to get it home but I will. We came across a traditional horse and cart decorated in its finery. While it was spectacular I did feel for the horse as I heard one of the tour guides say the head wear was too heavy for the horse. Poor thing.

    We tried a brioche con gelato and brioche con granita that we had seen on a lot of ice cream boards. I was the winner with my choice of brioche with gelato as the cherry and coconut flavoured gelato went very well in my brioche “sandwich”. It is an unusual concept but a delicious one too. Brad’s choice, however, was a bit of a fail. He chose pistachio granita and it was like green sludge in a cup and a dry brioche bun. At least we ticked another item of the “must try” list.

    We then ventured into the Vecchio Pub which had a lovely secluded garden out the back, away from the street traffic and noise. They have created such an inviting space, both inside and out. For lunch Brad enjoy a plate of mixed grilled seafood, which he loved, and I had my first Italian pizza on this trip. I chose one with very random toppings - eggs, artichokes, ham, olives and PEAS! And it was delicious. Not something I would ever think about putting together but it worked.

    This afternoon we walked into Siracusa to pick up our hire car for our road trip tomorrow. With tomorrow being a public holiday here, we had to get it early. With the parking situation on Ortigia being quite difficult we have left the car at the car rental office to collect tomorrow and be on our way. We can’t wait to see the rest of what Sicily has to offer and it has certainly been a wonderful start in Ortigia.
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  • Hari 69

    Cathedral of Syracuse, Ortigia, Sicily

    1 Juni 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After a siesta and a break from the sun, and once the crowds had died down, we went to see the Cathedral of Syracuse, which dates back to the 7th century. It is built on the remains of the Greek temple of Athena from the 5th century BC and several columns from those times are clearly seen.

    It is amazing to be able to walk through a building, marvelling at the towering pillars knowing that people were walking the same cobbled floor almost 2500 years ago. This is one of the things we love about visiting towns with so much history, just being in awe of where we are standing.
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  • Hari 68

    Teste di Moro - Moors Heads of Sicily

    31 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I, like many people, have fallen in love with one of Sicily’s icons, the Teste di Moro, the Sicilian Moors Heads. These are one of the most ornamental attributes of this land, often present in the form of ceramic decorations adorning the balconies, steps and window bays in the old villas of the island.

    There are a few legends surrounding these with the legend surrounded by mystery, romance and revenge the most accepted. The story unfolds in the Arab quarter of Palermo in the little town of Kalsa during 1100AD when the Moors had conquered Sicily. During this time, the Moors built ceramic workshops all over the island while introducing new techniques consisting of new shapes and colors of majolica to the local Sicilians.

    As the legend goes, there lived a beautiful young maiden with silky black hair and eyes the color of the sea of Palermo who spent her days cultivating and caring for the plants of her balcony. Young women were unable to go out alone at this time in Sicily, so the balcony served as a glimpse of freedom. One day, a wealthy young Moorish merchant noticed the young woman and instantly became captivated by her rare beauty and declared his love for her. Flattered and moved by his passion, she surrendered her love and virtue to him. Dishonored and stripped of her virtue, the young maiden soon learned the Moro would return to his country where his wife and children waited for him. Blinded by rage and heartache, the young woman waited until nightfall for him to fall asleep. She crept into the kitchen and returned to the bedroom with a knife, where she decapitated her beloved so he could never leave her again. The morning after, she turned his head into pot, filling it with basil, a symbol of passion and royalty, where it adorned her other plants on her balcony. The “pot” grew lush, so as to arouse the envy of the local residents who ordered the construction of similar vessels, in the form of dark brown.

    Today these ornamental vases, worked in ceramics and hand-painted by master craftsmen, are a very auspicious symbol for the residences of the Sicilians and they come in so many different styles and sizes. Ranging from over €600 to more affordable prices, they are certainly eye-catching. I just love how they are all very unique and adorn so many of the town’s walls, buildings and stairs. I love them.
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  • Hari 68

    Sunset Cafe, Ortigia, Sicily

    31 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Afternoon exploring the lanes and streets some more, I just love how pretty and inventive the shops and cafes are with their decor and displays, we stopped for a drink overlooking the water. We did make the mistake of falling into the tourist trap but the view was worth the drink prices.

    Feeling the heat we opted for arancini back in our air conditioned room followed with a siesta. We do love the Italian way of life.

    This evening we had a few drinks at the Sunset Cafe while waiting for the reputed beautiful sunset. But at 6.30pm with the sun still beating down, a quick weather check indicated sunset wasn’t to occur until 8.30pm. We knew the sun set later here but a server at a bar this afternoon told us to be out for the sunset at 6.30. We realised later she just wanted us back there to buy more drinks while we were waiting. Thankfully we chose somewhere else as their drinks were very expensive or it would have been a costly afternoon waiting.

    Not wanting to get 3rd degree burns waiting for the sunset we decided to head home with more arancini for dinner. We do love the Sicilian arancini and with different flavours and even styles, there are a lot to try here.
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  • Hari 68

    Exploring Ortigia, Sicily

    31 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    After the markets we explored more of the streets of Ortigia, just wandering down interesting laneways, following the fountains, admiring the shops fronts and buildings. It is such a pretty town and it is so nice not having to rush anywhere and just take it all in.

    Ortigia is a town of artists and the streets and lanes display their work. There are so many unique pieces and I so wish we had pieces like these back home. From cute and quirky paper mache sculptures and lamps, traditional Moors heads, ceramic and glass fish inspired pieces to the bold and modern ceramics and unique jewellery, this town has it all. It is a feast to the eyes and photos just can’t capture it all.
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  • Hari 68

    Markets and More, Ortigia, Sicily

    31 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We had an easy day today wandering around town. We visited the fresh food markets which are always so interesting. The different fruits and vegetables always intrigue us and the many different types of seafood. Sometimes the smells can be a bit much not being a huge seafood lover but it is interesting to see, especially when you get to see a local carving up a huge tuna like it is no big deal.

    Brad tried a fresh oyster with lemon, gin and Tabasco sauce before we stopped in a cafe in the middle of the market for some brunch. Fresh orange juice, a deliciously fresh caprese salad and a platter or Sicilian cheeses was the perfect brunch sat in the markets.

    We wandered the markets some more, checking out the wares on offer. I have fallen in love with the cacti and their lovely flowers but don’t think I would be able to take one home. Brad did buy a hat though, as the sun is getting hotter as we go on.
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  • Hari 67

    Pescomare da Selby, Ortigia, Sicily

    30 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We had lunch, and later, dinner at Pescomare da Seby, a beautiful restaurant we found through an archway off the main lane through town. It looked so pretty with its vine covered canopy and private courtyard. Our very engaging waiter even made me a limoncello spritz even though our original waitress said they don’t do them. And boy did he make a strong one.

    We were sat next to the open kitchen window where the fresh vegetables and fruits were stacked and we could watch the chef cooking and taking his ingredients from the boxes in front of us. It almost felt like we were sat in their home while they cooked, it had such a great feel. We enjoyed our lunch so much we made a reservation for the same table for dinner.

    Lunch was grilled prawns for Brad and a lovely salad for me. I have been craving fresh fruits and vegetables. It was delicious.

    We returned for dinner and happened to be sitting next to a couple from Bribie Island! We laughed and talked through dinner while enjoying our pasta dishes and desserts. We’ve had a great night with new friends Julie and Charles, and a great first day in this beautiful town.
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  • Hari 67

    Ionian Sea - Ortigia, Sicily

    30 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This beautiful island or Syracuse is surrounded by the Ionian Sea and we were able to walk the perimeter of the island, marvelling at the clear turquoise waters, admiring the fortified walls and fort, and being surprised at the rocky beaches people were lying on. While the waters looked inviting and the weather was warm enough, the steps down and back up were enough to put me off. I’d need another swim to cool down once I got up the stairs.Baca selengkapnya

  • Hari 67

    Our Spiritual Home - Sicily - Italy

    30 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    And we are home - okay not our real home but my heart’s home. Italy is in my soul and even with all the amazing places we have visited I am still filled with so much joy to be back in Italy. This time we are hoping to explore Sicily more than we got to last time and first stop is Ortigia in Syracuse.

    After our very early and very quick flight from Valletta, we arrived quite early and with no option to drop our bags off early we found the Piazza Duoma, parked our luggage and sat and enjoyed our second breakfast for the day. We did have a coffee and apple tart at the airport at 4.00am this morning.

    Already we are so impressed with this town. It looks like it has lots of beautiful alleys and laneways to explore, lovely wide piazzas to sit and enjoy the view and lots of restaurants and cafes to choose from. We can’t wait to get started.

    For our second breakfast we tried a typical Sicilian pastry the waiter suggested, fresh orange juice and a coffee, while we admired the stunning cathedral across the way. As we did have some time to kill we followed our second breakfast with a pre-lunch drink. Sicilian wine for me and an Italian beer for Brad. They certainly aren’t stingy with their pours and the prices here are fabulous. And finally we are back in Italy so we get complementary snacks with our drinks. It just adds to the whole experience.

    Thankfully our host messaged to say we could drop our luggage off so we left our sunny spot and met our wonderful host. Bags dropped off and time to kill before our official check in we hit the streets, eager to see all that Ortigia has to offer. And it is a lot.

    This beautiful island is surrounded with the most stunning turquoise waters, so clear you can see the bottom. And so inviting we would love to jump in. We walked around the outer road admiring the views, wandered through some of the pretty laneways and ohhhhed and ahhhhed over so much. There is a real hive of artists here, from jewellery makers, ceramic artists, sculptors, painters and more. And their shops and their stands are all so beautifully displayed, enticing me to want it all. They really add to the prettiness of this town. So much to look at and so much to photograph.
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