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Exploring Europe 2023
  • Debi Shaw
  • Debi Shaw

Exploring Europe 2023

Our hearts belong to Italy, but with so many other amazing countries to explore, it is time to spread our wings and fly outside our comfort zone. Europe - here we come. Lue lisää
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  • Debi ShawExploring Europe 2023Matkaaja

    Ronda, Spain

    18. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We had an early morning start to catch our two trains to our next destination, the town of Ronda. The landscape has changed so much and now there are fields of gold and rows of olive trees. Very picturesque.

    I first saw Ronda on an episode of The Amazing Race and the town looked like it has a lot to offer, so here we are. Ronda is known for its cliffside location and a deep canyon that carries the Guadalevin River and divides the town.

    We arrived before check-in so quickly grabbed something to eat before having a quick look around where we are staying. Lunch was a toasted sandwich followed with a Spanish churros with hot chocolate. We had to tick that of our “foods to try” list. They are not was sweet as the ones from home and are so much lighter. And of course we found a bakery for Brad to feed his cake obsession, which of course I benefit from too. The cakes looked amazing and we were very happy with our choices to have later with a cup of coffee.

    Unfortunately it does not seem that our good weather has followed us from Madrid and the rain started and poured all afternoon. Thankfully we were able to check in early and we spent the time researching dinner options. Thankfully the rain let up long enough for us to make our way to Taperia La Flamenka where we had some amazing tapas dishes and delicious sangria. This is “up there” with one of the best meals we have had on this trip. So delicious. We have told ourselves that we will try other places to eat while we are here, but this place will be hard to beat.    Lue lisää

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    Sunset over Ronda, Spain

    18. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    With dinner done and the sky still light we decided to have a brief stroll through town before calling it a day. We are still trying to get use to the long days here, where restaurants don’t open until 8pm and the sun is still up. The beauty of this though is that our after dinner walk resulted in us capturing the sun setting over the hills and valley of Ronda, at 9.30pm. Unheard of in Australia. It was lovely having a walk around the edge of town with the beautiful sunset as the backdrop while we got our first glimpse of what brought us here in the first place, the Puente Nuevo or “New Bridge of Ronda”. Spectacular. We can’t wait to properly explore tomorrow.Lue lisää

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    Alameda del Tajo, Ronda

    19. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We continued our walk back up through town to the Alameda del Tajo, a wooded promenade and botanical gardens. It is obvious this town has a bit of money as the maintenance on these gardens is amazing. From the decorative tiled pathways to the many fountains and manicured flower beds, this space is a tranquil reprieve. We strolled along the long promenade overlooking the valley below. It was so peaceful and the countryside reminds us of Tuscany. I did not expect to see this type of landscape and it is just beautiful.Lue lisää

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    The Streets of Ronda, Spain

    19. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    From the gardens we continued our walk through the streets of Ronda, admiring the architecture, the scenery, the piazzas and the stores. I love how different every town has been, from the colours and the shapes and curves of their buildings, the way their piazzas are presented, their shops and what and how they display things, everything is unique to each town, which is what makes exploring new towns so exciting.Lue lisää

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    Tapas Tour of Ronda

    19. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Spain is the country of tapas and that is certainly the case here in Ronda. After our successful tapas dinner last night we thought we would try some more taps for lunch and do a bit of a tapas crawls in lieu of a pub crawl. Thank goodness we didn’t decide to do the whole thing at our first stop as it wasn’t the best.

    Our first stop was at La Taberna de Antonio and we ordered what we thought were going to be meat dishes anda mushroom dish. We didn’t realise the meat dishes were just the piece of meat on a bun. Very dry. Thankfully we have ordered one mini burger so managed to get a bit of salad with it. Thankfully the sangrias were good, so much nicer that the versions we have at home in Australia.

    Our next tapas stop was at Bar Casa Moreno which has been operating since 1969. This place was packed with locals which is always a good sign. There are no bells and whistles here and it is fabulous for it. While we still ended up with a couple of mini burgers the meat was moist, the grilled prawns delicious and the drinks refreshing. Still not as good as our dinner the night before but our bellies are full.

    With another storm rolling in we retreated for the afternoon before heading out for dinner, back to Taperia La Flamenka from the night before, for more of the delicious grilled squid, prawns, croquettes and mini burgers. Our host was thrilled to see us return and we reassured him that he has the best tapas in town.    Lue lisää

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    Plaza de Toros, Ronda

    20. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This morning we did a tour of the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballeria de Ronda, the bullring of the Royal Cavalry of Ronda. The defence needs of the territory in 1572 resulted in the founding of the Real Maestranza de Caballeria de Ronda and it was necessary that a space was built for the handling of the horses and their exercises.

    As was traditional in Spain in the Middle Ages, dexterity games with bulls were included. The bravery of the bulls when attacking horses and riders served as unparalleled training for the knights and became an exciting spectator the entire population. In the 18th century bullfighters on foot take over from the knights in the games with the bulls and bullfight continued from there along with the expansion of the bull ring.

    While I think bull fighting is not a nice sport and very cruel I can’t help but admire the pageantry that goes with it, the vibrant colours, lush materials, the artistry of it all. It leaves me with very mixed feelings. The long history is interesting and the feeling standing in the bullring is hard to put into words. It was worth the visit.    Lue lisää

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    Beneath Puente Nuevo, Ronda

    20. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After the bullring tour we were able to visit the first level under the New Bridge and see things from a different angle. Inside was a small display outlining the building g process undertaken in the building of the bridge.

    Once we had finished exploring Ronda (it isn’t that big a town), we decided it was time for lunch and we were all tapas-ed out. We wanted a proper meal. We stopped at La Giralda and I ordered grilled chicken and vegetables and Brad ordered pork. We had no idea it would arrive at our table on a grill still cooking. It was delicious with the meat so succulent and the vegetables so full of flavour. It was a unique and delicious last meal in Ronda. We have loved our time here and are glad we fit it into our schedule.    Lue lisää

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    Sunset Coctails - Santa Cruz, Seville

    21. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Once unpacked we ventured out again to see a bit of the city at night before finding a rooftop bar to end our first day in Seville with some cocktails while enjoying the view of the cathedral tower. The late sunsets mean we have more daylight hours to explore and we certainly plan to take advantage of that here.

    We already love Seville and can’t wait to experience more. It was the perfect first day experience.    Lue lisää

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    Seville, Spain

    21. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We farewelled Ronda and a two and a half hour bus ride later we have arrived in Seville. The scenery on the way was lovely with fields of sunflowers and golden grasses. Spain is so much more than I expected.

    And Seville has exceeded my expectations already. What a vibrant, colourful city! While waiting to check in we found a seafood restaurant (one of many here in Seville) and sat and enjoyed noir delicious lunch while sat on the main street of Old Town. For lunch I had the freshest salad of fruits and marinated cuttlefish while Brad enjoyed his linguine with seafood. I tried a new cocktail here, tinto de verano, a mix of Spanish red wine and Fanta limone (lemon Fanta) and fruit. Lighter than sangria and way too easy to drink. It is very refreshing. We even shared a cherry cheesecake for dessert - which actually means Brad ordered as I said I didn’t want dessert but then I helped him eat it anyway.

    We walked off our lunch by exploring the nearby streets before checking into our home for the next few nights.    Lue lisää

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    Conventi de San Leandro, Seville

    22. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    First up today was a visit to Convento de San Leandro to buy confectionery from nuns. The nuns sell their homemade sweets here to help them maintain their maintenance and live in the monasteries with the money collected. Many monasteries are forced to close because they cannot pick up the money to continue.
Fifty years ago, Seville had 41 monasteries, of which only fifteen are left. Many have been abandoned or forced into offices, museums or evenementenruimtes. By buying these homemade sweets from the nuns, we get the chance to support them. The recipes they use have been passed on for hundreds of years and are really typical authentic Spanish desserts.

    At this convent we enter a small room with a lazy susan installed in the wall. There is a price list beside the lazy susan with the amounts listed for the quantities available. As there is only one sweet available you just have to decide how much you want and put the exact amount of money on the lazy susan. You then ring the buzzer and turn the lazy susan so the money disappears behind the wall. You never see the nuns as they avoid contact with the public and after a few minutes the turntable will turn again and we are presented with a lovely wrapped box of sweets.

    The sweets they make at this convent are called yemas de San Leand, yolks of San Leandro, and consist of egg yolks baked with sugar. They are a traditional sweet made by the cloistered nuns from a very old recipe.

    They have great fame in the city and have been praised for their delicate flavor and recognized outside the local sphere, they are one of the products described in the book 1000 Foods To Eat Before You Die: A Food Lover's Life List (a thousand dishes to eat before you die). We saved these until we got home to try them. They have a very unique texture and flavour and even with Brad loving his lollies we didn’t eat them all. they must be for those with an elevated pallet.    Lue lisää

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    Casa de Palais, Seville

    22. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    From there we went to La Casa de Pilatos, an Andalusian palace which has around 150 different 1530’s Spanish glazed tiled walls. With construction starting in 1483, it has one of the largest collections of azulejo (Spanish glazed tiles) in the world.

    It serves as the permanent residence of the Dukes of Medinaceli and is an example of an Italian Renaissance building with Mudejar elements and decorations. It is a beautiful place with so many surfaces tiled with beautiful ceramic tiles. The mix of patterned and colours is not something we would think would work together but it does here. It is amazing.

    Several films have been shot in the Casa de Pilatos, including four Hollywood blockbusters: Lawrence of Arabia in 1962, Ridley Scott's 1492: Conquest of Paradise in 1992,, and Kingdom of Heaven in 2005. At the end of 2009, Tom Cruise filmed the movie Knight and Day with Cameron Diaz at the palace.    Lue lisää

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    Plaza de España, Seville

    22. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Next stop was the Plaza de Espana.
    In 1929, Seville hosted the Ibero-American Exposition World’s Fair and the entire southern end of the city was redeveloped into an expanse of gardens and grand boulevards. Plaza de Espana was a principal building built on the Maria Luisa Park's edge to showcase Spain's industry and technology exhibits. It is a mix of 1920s art deco and Spanish Renaissance Revival, Spanish Baroque Revival and Neo-Mudejar styles. It is a huge half circle with the buildings accessible by four bridges over the moat, which represent the ancient kingdoms of Spain. In the centre is the Vicente Traver fountain.

    Many tiled alcoves were built around the plaza, each representing a different province of Spain.

    Today the buildings of the Plaza de España have been renovated and adapted for use as offices for government agencies. The Plaza de España has been used as a filming locations for scenes from Lawerence of Arabia, Star Wars: Episode II - Attack of the Clones and a few tv shows.

    It is a vast space and I’m sure would look even more impressive against a bright sky. The tiles used to cover the surfaces, the bridges over the small canal, it is a very lovely site. We did think it would be lined with cafes so we could take a break but that wasn’t the case. Instead we got to watch a flamenco dancer here performing a segment of the show they offer. It was amazing how fast they dance and very impressive.    Lue lisää

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    Restaurante San Marco, Seville

    22. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    To finish our day we had a late lunch at Restaurant San Marco Santa Cruz, built in a preserved Arabian bath from the 12th century. Amazing building matched only by our delicious lunch. For once we had an entree, main and dessert, something we very rarely do but the food looked so delicious.

    Brad had a parcel of cheeses and fruits for entree while I had a garlic bread. Of course we shared and the they were both so delicious. For mains Brad had a roast lamb and vegetables and I had a very delicious ravioli stuffed with ricotta in a pesto sauce. We couldn’t resist, even though we probably should have, and we ordered dessert, which of course we shared.

    We think we probably should have shared one dessert as we were ready to explode. It was a fabulous meal in an amazing location.    Lue lisää

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    Cerveceria Internacional, Seville

    23. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja

    Today was yet another overcast day and as we are saving the “main sites” for a sunny day (fingers crossed it is forecast for tomorrow), we decided to just wander the streets today, walking some of the non tourist back lanes and alleys and just taking it as it comes. We came across this fabulous bar, Cerveceria Internacional that I suggested we stop for a drink at and while Brad was a bit unsure, we ended up spending a couple of hours here enjoying some drinks, tapas and the atmosphere. Sometimes it is the small places away from the main tourist track that give you the best experiences, and this was one of them.

    This place focuses on BEER, but thankfully had a very delicious whole Spanish wine on offer too. The amount of beers on display and available to drink was simply mind blowing. The menu had over 300 to choose from. So we stayed for a few beers and wine and some simple, authentic tapas. Everything was delicious and we enjoyed a chat with a local and the bar staff and had a fantastic afternoon.

    After an afternoon siesta, which we needed, we went to El Pasaje, a tapas restaurant we had passed a few times and heard a guide tell his group it was the place to try as all the locals went there. Sadly it did not live up to the hype and we were very disappointed with the whole experience. We were sat at a table by ourselves at the edge of the laneways and the food was not good. Unfortunately that is all part of trying somewhere new, done will be amazing and done will fall short.    Lue lisää

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    Parade Day Seville

    24. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We woke to blue skies and that was all we needed to get out the door as quickly as possible. While Seville has been wonderful we have really been missing the clear blue skies. Grey clouds get depressing after a while. We could also hear some bangs and bells coming from the plaza in front of the Cathedral, and had seen a few men in traditional dress on horseback ride up our street, so first stop was to investigate what was happening.

    So we hit the streets to see what the commotion was and shock, surprise, there was a festival going on. We seem to be experiencing a few of these now. We still aren’t sure what this one was for but the plaza was filled with decorated wagons being pullled by bulls with their handlers dressed in their traditional attire. There were also lists of signoritas and signoras in theirs beautiful Spanish dresses. We made our way into the crowd and ended up front row as a procession started. Thankfully not as long as what we experienced on Valencia, but just as bright and a lot more lively. After not too long a vestibule of silver was carried past, and then the wagons and bulls followed. It was such a wonderful surprise to witness. Once again as soon as the animals had come through and the procession was over in can the street sweeping trucks to clean up all the horse and bull excrement. They take such pride in how clean their town is and it is something we both commented on numerous times.    Lue lisää

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    Setas de Sevilla, Seville

    24. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Procession over we hit the streets again to see everything else on our “must see” list. First up was a walk to the Metropol Parasol, now known as Setas de Sevilla ("Mushrooms of Seville"). It is a wooden structure located in the old quarter of Seville and was designed by the German architect, Jurgen Mayer and completed in April 2011. It has dimensions of 150 by 70 metres and an approximate height of 26 metres and claims to be the largest wooden structure in the world. Its appearance, location, delays and cost overruns in construction resulted in much public controversy. After seeing this on tv I wasn’t sure what to expect. It certainly was interesting and eye catching with its curves and angles. And seeing it against the old buildings is once again quite a juxtaposition. We could have gone for a walk on top but at €15 each we decided it wasn’t worth it. We have a tower climb this arvo where I’m sure we will see more of the city. Photos taken we made our way to the next site, the bullring.Lue lisää

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    Plaza de los Toros, Seville

    24. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballeria de Seville is the site of one of the most well known bullfighting festivals in the world. With its 12 000 capacity bullring it is a part of the Real Maestranze de Caballeria de Seville, a noble guild established for traditional cavalry training.

    Construction began in 1749 of a circular ring on Baratillo Hill to replace the rectangular bullring that was previously located there. In 1761, the construction began to incorporate ochavas (each ochava being equivalent to four arches). The inner facade of the plaza (called the Palco del Príncipe or Prince's Box) was completed in 1765. This 'box' consists of two parts: the access gate through which the successful bullfighters exit, and the theater box itself, which is reserved for the exclusive use of the Spanish Royal Family. In 1786 bullfighting celebrations were prohibited and construction was ceased with only one third of the plaza completed at that time. The plaza was eventually completed in 1881 and is still in use today.

    Even though we have walked though the bull ring at Ronda, we decided this was worth going through it - and thankfully it was. There was a museum displaying many costumes the matadors have worn, the decorated spears and lots of artwork and sculptures. Even though I don’t agree with bull fighting it was interesting seeing it all and understanding the history. And my inner artist just loved the colours and pageantry of it all.

    We walked around the ring, the stables and chapel, following the steps the matadors would take. Although I do struggle supporting the industry by visiting the bullring, we really enjoyed this experience and photographing this stunning site added to our enjoyment.    Lue lisää

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    Rest Stop for our Weary Feet, Seville

    24. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Next we made our way to the banks of the Guadalquivir River for a stroll in the sunshine, admiring more of Seville as we did so. With time to kill before our scheduled time at our next location we found a cafe to sit and enjoy a drink and rest our feet. We have certainly covered some ground this morning, especially when Google maps keeps taking us the long way to locations. Although we haven’t minded the misdirections as we have been able to see so much of this beautiful town.Lue lisää

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    Sangrias in Santa Cruz, Seville

    24. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    With time to kill before our next tourist site we opted for lunch in our street, eventually managing to grab a table at Bar Patanchon where I enjoyed another lovely fresh salad and Brad had grilled octopus. Thankfully it was another enjoyable meal washed down with one of our favourite Spanish cocktails.

    I have really enjoyed the Sangria here in Spain. It is so much lighter than what I have tried at home. Ours seem to be so much heavier. I will have to experiment when we get back to find the perfect mix.

    Lunch done, we explored a bit more before making our way to the Cathedral for our allocated time slot.    Lue lisää

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    Real Alcázar, Seville

    24. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    This afternoon we finally got to visit the Royal Alcazars of Seville, the Reales Alcazares de Sevilla in Spanish. This is a royal palace built for the Christian king Peter of Castile. It was built by Castilian Christians on the site of an Abbasid Muslim alcazar or residential fortress. With a fortified structure on this site dating back to the first century, the current palace has undergone many, many remodels and refurbishments resulting in a building with a unique blend of styles.

    The upper stories of the Alcazar are still occupied by the royal family when they visit Seville.

    This palace is a labyrinth of stunningly decorated rooms, gardens and courtyards. We have never seen anything like it. Photographs and words just don’t do it justice. We were so impressed with the Palais de Calios and this is so much more. Absolutely blows my mind as to how it was all created.

    So much colour, so many textures, so much history - this is one site that makes my top ten list on places we have seen on this trip. AMAZING!!    Lue lisää

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    La Giralda, Seville

    24. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    With the Cathedral being moments from where we have been staying and visible from our apartment window we were looking forward to seeing inside this impressive and massive structure.

    Before we even started exploring the Cathedral and its many rooms and chapel we did the tower climb first. The Giralda is the bell tower of the Cathedral of Seville and is 105 metres high. It is the former minaret of the mosque that stood on the site under Muslim rule, and was built in 1184. It was converted into a bell tower for the cathedral and the statue on its top, called "El Giraldillo", was installed in 1568 to represent the triumph of the Christian faith.

    I was dreading climbing stairs all the way to the top and was praying for an elevator (knowing that would not be the case). Surprisingly it was a ramp that spiralled all the way up the high tower. With views out the windows on the way we could glimpse how high we were getting. Given my phobia of stairs I loved the ramp and it was so much easier on my old knees.

    Unfortunately getting to the top was a bit disappointing with only two of the four sides accessible due to work being done. We actually saw more out the windows on the way up and back down. Although it is always cool seeing a city from above.    Lue lisää

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    Cathedral of Seville

    25. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    After our climb to the top of the bell tower we made our way back down to walk through the Cathedral and see all that it had to offer.

    The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, known as the Seville Cathedral, is a Roman Catholic cathedral and one of the largest churches in the world and the largest Gothic church. It is certainly one of the biggest we have seen in our travels.

    After its completion in the early 16th century, the current cathedral was built on the site of a 12th century mosque. As with all buildings of this age changes, repairs and remodelling have taken place through the years. The cathedral was built to demonstrate the city’s wealth and it still does that today. The interior of this church is vast and impressive. The cathedral has 80 chapels and it was reported in 1896 that 500 masses were said daily in the chapels.

    I thought we should leave a trail of breadcrumbs so we could find our way back out. This has to be one of the more impressive churches we have visited with regards to what they have on display. A lot of churches don’t display all their items of interest, their treasures for the general public to see but this cathedral has so much on display. The alters and chapels are stunning and there is so much artistry on display. It is vast, it is overwhelming with its wealth and it definitely does what it set out to do - demonstrate the city’s wealth.

    We thought we may be “getting over” looking at churches but am so glad we decided to check the Cathedral of Seville out. It was breathtaking and photos don’t come close to show how amazing and magnificent this church is.    Lue lisää

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    Last Morning in Seville

    25. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja

    With an afternoon flight to Malta and a day to spend with our luggage, we chose to find a cafe for a late breakfast, or as they call it here in Spain, our second breakfast (even though we haven’t had our first breakfast yet). Second breakfast usually consists of some type of egg sandwich dish and while our eggs didn’t look great colour wise they were delicious.

    We followed our second breakfast with some drinks and snacks while we wiled away some hours people watching and enjoying our last few hours in Seville. Seville has been amazing and has so much to offer without feeling like a crowded city. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time here and would love to return one day to experience more.

    Sadly we bid our farewells and braced ourselves for our flight to Valletta, Malta. Ready for our next adventure.    Lue lisää

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    Valletta Malta

    25. toukokuuta 2023, Malta ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    We finally arrived in Valletta, our home for the next five nights and are looking forward to visiting these streets again. Having stopped here for a day visit from a cruise in 2017, we are looking forward to experiencing more.

    We checked into our lovely apartment, in a hundreds of years old sandstone building, renovated beautifully, and with a water view of the harbour. And even better, an Italian trattoria across the road so we didn’t have to think too hard about where to have dinner. The food was amazing.

    Bellies full and eyes dropping we had a very brief walk before calling it a night. We can’t wait to really explore this town.    Lue lisää

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