L’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022

Italy is calling us home. And home is where the heart it. It has been way too long. Lue lisää

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L’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022 Matkaaja
Afternoon Drinks with a View, Orvieto
9. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
After a very quick unpack we ventured out to reacquaint ourselves with one of our favourite towns. I was quite concerned Covid would have hit the smaller towns in Italy quite badly, but that was not the case here. Orvieto is thriving and there are even more cafes, restaurants and shops than when we were here in 2019. It is great to see.

Of course our first stop must be the Duomo di Orvieto, Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta (Orvieto Cathedral) and it needs to be seen to be believed. This church is one of my all-time favourites, especially the facade. The detail in the mosaic tiles that make up the facade are breathtaking. The skill and the craftsmanship are hard to fathom, considering construction began in 1290AD. I think we stopped and took photos every time we passed it while we were here.

We sat and had a few drinks in the Piazza with the Duomo as our view. We are so happy and lucky to be here again.

We then had a wander through the streets before our daily gelato treat. It has been a big day. After leaving the heat and crowds of Rome, we feel like our holiday has now begun.

P.S. Vale Queen Elizabeth II.Lue lisää
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Streets of Orvieto
10. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Today was a day of wandering, taking in the sights of Orvieto and tasting the local food, wine and beer.

First up for breakfast we had Lumachella, meaning small snail, which is a traditional pastry prepared with flour, water, olive oil, lard, pecorino cheese, pepper, salt and bacon. It is very tasty and a great kickstart to our day.

Unfortunately we couldn’t resist and also had coffee and croissants. Lucky we are getting in plenty of steps or we mightn’t fit in the plane to come home.

Late lunch in the Piazza del Duomo at the Osteria Wine bar consisted of a tasty selection of local meats and cheeses. We’ve been to this place before and the charcuterie never fails to please. The local white wine and beer helped wash it down.

In amongst all the eating we did manage to find time to enjoy the views from Orvieto’s high location, as well as the wonderful streets and laneways. This town is a very pretty town with its delightful wooden sculptures, lovely window displays and greenery and flowers adorning the steps and window boxes. It is a vast difference to the hustle and heat of Rome.Lue lisää
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Il Labirinto De Adriano, Orvieto
10. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
We had the most amazing experience tonight with an extremely delicious dinner at Il Labirinto de Adriano, Restaurant of the Labyrinth. We thought we’d have local dishes tonight, so Brad had rabbit wrapped in porchetta and I had Guinea fowl. Our meals were beautifully presented and tasted just as good as they looked.

This restaurant gets its name from the labyrinthic structure below - a series of wells, caves and underground rooms that were discovered in the 1970s by the owners while renovating their upstairs pastry shop.

We were able to go down via a steep flight of stairs cut into the earth for a look around. There were sculptures, earthenware and remains of what life would have been like for the inhabitants. There are fossils in these caves that have been dated to 250000 years ago.

It was like an ancient “Swell”, the yearly Gold Coast sculptures on the beach event. It blows my mind that it was buried underground for centuries and what an amazing discovery. So far this is one of my favourite sites of our trip.Lue lisää
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Military Parade at the Duomo, Orvieto
11. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Today is our last day at Orvieto, this magical hilltop town we first visited in 2018, and it still has me captivated after our third time here.

We had a late start this morning before watching an Italian military ceremony in the Piazza Duomo. The soldiers were wearing uniforms representing the history of the Italian military and it was very interesting seeing all the different eras and weaponry.

As it was all in Italian and my Italian lessons haven’t been going that well, we still don’t know exactly what it was in aide of. The only part I understood was “Viva L’Italia”, long live Italy.Lue lisää
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Last Day in Orvieto
11. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C
After the Military parade we realised we had skipped breakfast so bought some Italian pastries on our way back to our apartment where we probably broke two Italian rules:

1. No drinking wine before midday

2. Don’t drink wine with cannolis

It was worth breaking both rules as we enjoyed our Italian pastries and the complimentary bottle of wine our host had left for us. This ended up being our breakfast and lunch.

We headed back out in the afternoon for our last Orvieto gelato, after a walk out to the fort for one last view of the surrounding countryside, and more photos of the stunning duomo.

After fasting most of the day we were looking forward to dinner tonight at Il Dialogo, a traditional restaurant just a short walk from our apartment. I had forgotten our previous experience with pizzas with four topping and ordered a pizza quattro stagioni again. When they say four toppings they mean a different topping in each quarter. Brad had pappardelle with wild boar ragu. The food here is so delicious.

That’s a wrap for this part of our holiday, as tomorrow we pick up a car and head to Montepulciano for the next six days. Brad has been watching this weekend’s Italian F1 Grand Prix for tips on driving over here! Wish me luck.

Thank you Orvieto, you have been amazing and we are so happy we returned.Lue lisää
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Iconic Tuscan Scene
12. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
While we were sad to leave Orvieto, we were excited for the next part of our trip, exploring Tuscany. We picked up our hire car and spent the day exploring the gorgeous Tuscan hills before checking into our next location, Montepulciano. The first stop was a view point for one of the iconic Tuscany views used for lots of advertising and media. While it was disappointing the hills weren’t lush and green, it was still a great photo op stop.Lue lisää
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Montalcino
12. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Checking out the amazing scenery of Tuscany made us a bit peckish (any excuse for an Italian meal) so we stopped at the small hill town of Montalcino. Settled since the Etruscan times, this town boasts amazing views of the valleys of Tuscany with the rustic small-town vibe.

We found a fabulous restaurant with seating in the lush gardens, perfect for a pit stop. I had the best ravioli I have ever had, ravioli with pecorino cheese and pine nuts, and Brad enjoyed tagliatelle with asparagus tips and prosciutto. Accompanied with a very delicious bruschetta and a beer for Brad and a fishbowl of Prosecco for me, it was a wonderful experience.

Once we refuelled, we were ready to hit the road again, towards our next location.Lue lisää
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Cipressi di San Quirico d'Orcia
12. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
Next photo op stop on the way to Montepulciano was another iconic Tuscan view, the famed Cypress trees around a contemporary hilltop sculpture, with views across the rolling countryside. It isn’t even the sculpture here that is the highlight, it is the cluster of majestic Cypress pines standing tall and isolated on the empty hillside. Once again the fields have been ploughed leaving the surrounding fields clumpy and not as picturesque as the images I have seen, but it is still an iconic view.

We also managed to stop a few more times to photograph the beautiful scenery. I love the way properties line their driveways with rows of Cypress pines. They are striking against the smooth rolling hills. This really is a stunning region of Italy and I feel so lucky that we have been able to explore it and appreciate it.Lue lisää
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Montepulciano
12. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
After our day touring the Tuscan countryside in our zippy little left-hand drive Ford Fiesta, we finally made it to Montepulciano, with me only having to remind Brad once to drive on the right side of the road.

Montepulciano is our home for the next six days while we explore more of the Tuscan region. Montepulciano has been dated to the 2nd and 3rd century BC and in Roman times was a garrison guarding the main roads in the area.

It is a very hilly and steep town (something I didn’t think about when booking) and the views from the town and our apartment windows are amazing. While we have a gorgous view, it also means we have a lot of steps to climb as our apartment is four flights of stairs up and we are at the top end of a steep town. However, our apartment is amazing - so well equipped and filled with Italian charm. I don't know that we will want to leave here.

After a brief walk through town we were exhausted, so we decided on dinner in our apartment and an early night so we can get up and explore more tomorrow. Our brief glimpse of Montepulciano does have us wanting to see more.Lue lisää
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Sunrise at Montepulciano
13. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ 🌙 14 °C
For some reason we were both up early so we decided to venture out and watch the sunrise over the hills of Tuscany. Walking the empty streets filled with history as the sun rises on a new day is a very special feeling.

Even before the sun rose the sky was awash with soft pastel hues changing to a vibrant sky of oranges and blues. Mother Nature at her finest and an amazing way to start the day.Lue lisää
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Assissi
13. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
After the sun had risen and photos had been taken, we hit the road for Assisi. This town is stunningly gorgeous and might be one of my new favourite towns. It is definitely a town I would love to revisit and stay in. We usually prefer the smaller towns but Assisi won me over with its pretty streets and laneways overflowing with flowering plants and charm, and so many picturesque settings.Lue lisää
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Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi
13. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
First up was Assisi’s most prominent church, the Basilica of San Francesco d’Assisi. I think it has to be one of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen, and there have been a few over here that have blown my mind. The frescos are so vibrant, and detailed, and amazing, and I just can’t think of the right adjective to adequately describe them. I could sit for hours just in awe of them.

Apparently, we were not allowed to take photos in the church and while I obeyed, Brad did not, hence the car failing us later that day. God smote him down and I had to suffer too as I was secretly glad he snuck some photos.

The Basilica is the mother church of the Roman Catholic Order of Friars where Saint Francis was born and died. It is a Papal minor basilica and one of the most important places of Christian pilgrimage in Italy with building commencing in 1228.

Brad actually sat in on mass which is different for him, but he said it was very uplifting. Although he did skip out just before the collection plate passed around. Maybe another bad strike from the karma gods.

It is a stunning and impressive church, both inside and out. In front of the church is a bronze statue of Saint Francis on his horse with both horse and rider bowing their heads. It is said to be of the moment in 1204 when Saint Francis heard the voice of God telling him to leave the war and return home. I love the history behind these places and these pieces.Lue lisää
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Chiesa di Santa Maria sopra Minerva
13. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
The church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva is housed in the ancient Roman Temple of Minerva and was the next place we visited. Built in 1539, it was renovated in Baroque style in the 17th century. The temple itself was built in the 1st century BC and it was thought to be dedicated to Minerva after a female statue was unearthed. However, a dedication stone to Hercules has been found, and the temple was likely dedicated to this male demi-god.

At the age of 25, Francis renounced his vast inherited wealth from his father by symbolically stripping naked in front of the Bishop Guido and a great crowd, in front of this temple.

It is such a surreal feeling walking in the steps where such significant historic events took place, where religion and politics determined the shape of this country.Lue lisää
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Assisi Cathedral
13. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
After a delicious lunch in the Piazza del Commune Assisi we made our way to the Assisi Cathedral, known as the Cathedral of San Rufino. This is a major church and is the third church built on the same site to contain the remains of bishop Rufinus of Assisi, martyred in the 3rd century. Construction started in 1140.

This cathedral has been important in the history of the Franciscan order as it where Saint Francis of Assisi was baptized in 1182 and Saint Clare in 1193.

The interior of this church is much less elaborate that the Basilica with the majority of its ceiling and walls unadorned. The altars and naves that were adorned were beautiful and intricate. There is also a hallway of paintings of the pope. The detail and realism of some of these is amazing and it is always interesting seeing modern art pieces in such historic sites.Lue lisää
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Car Troubles
13. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Once we had finished exploring Assisi we hit the road thinking we would visit one of the nearby lakes. That didn’t end up being the fun afternoon we envisioned as the zippy little Ford Fiesta died on us, and we only just survived.

First the battery warning light illuminates, then we lose air-con on a stinker of a day. We finally manage to find a place to stop (bonus was it was overlooking a lake) and we then called Hertz and were told to drive it to next town, 40km away.

Onto the highway where the speed is 130km/h. We had the windows down to keep cool and then we lose the radio and clock. Next to go is the ABS and airbags. We were crossing everything that we would make it. And quietly blaming Brad for not obeying the rules in the Basilica of Assisi as we are now paying the price for his disobedience.

Then with 10km to go, we lose power steering and all instruments, including the speedo. Due to the loud noise of wind and horns and cars flying past we try to put up the windows, but lose all electrics and windows stay down. We somehow roll into the Hertz yard, stressed, hot and anxious. What was so amusing was the options we had – 1. We could wait for a car to be driven from Orvieto to where we were which might be a couple of hours or option 2. We could take a car from their office. As if anyone would want to wait in the car hire office for hours when you have the option to get a replacement car then and there. Of course we took option two and finally made it home. It certainly was an eventful way to end the day.

P.S. This is not our replacement carLue lisää
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Trattoria di Cagnano, Montepulciano
13. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
After a big day exploring Assisi and then the car troubles, we realised we had eaten very little so made sure we tried one of the restaurants our host had suggested, Trattoria di Cagnano. It is a lovely restaurant and I think we were lucky to get a table. For once I decided to forgo my usual pasta selections and try the local Tuscan beef with a salad, something I usually don’t eat. I even had my meat medium-rare and not “dead” like I usually have it. It was a nice meal and I enjoyed having a salad after so many carb heavy meals (not that I am complaining about them). Brad finally got to have his first seafood pasta and he was very happy with his meal.

It was a nice way to end our big day and thankfully the restaurant wasn’t situated too far from the apartment so we didn’t have too steep a hill to hike back up to home.Lue lisää
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Caffe Poliziano, Montepulciano
14. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
After yesterday’s exciting day out exploring Assisi and our car failing us, we chose to spend today exploring the steep streets of Montepulciano. One thing I realised this morning is that we actually didn’t need to leave the apartment at the crack of dawn to watch the sunrise yesterday - we can see it from our kitchen window. I will add that I do have to be on tiptoes to see it and I do get a much better view with one foot on a chair and the other foot in the sink. This is the only way I can manage to get my phone and camera out of the window to take photos of the view and not lose hold of my phone or camera entirely. It is worth the effort, believe me.

Anyway, we are starting to fall into the Italian way of things - breakfast at 11 after a lovely lie in (well for Brad. I was standing in the kitchen sink taking photos as the sun rose). We ventured out for breakfast at Caffe Poliziano where we enjoyed a very delicious breakfast while sat on a tiny balcony with stunning views of the Valdichiana. We certainly put our trust in the supports for the balcony and I was still a bit concerned that the karma gods might still be annoyed with Brad. Thankfully it seems we paid the price yesterday and we survived our beautiful breakfast location.

We spent the rest of the day strolling the laneways and streets of Montepulciano, admiring the beautiful historic buildings, tasting some local wines, buying a unique piece of art, oohing and ahhing over more expansive views before succumbing to a siesta. With an overcast day it felt just right to embrace the Italian way even more.Lue lisää
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Enoteca Palazzo Contucci, Montepulciano
14. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
Our wine tasting was at the historic Enoteca Palazzo Contucci, a wine bar where we could try the Contucci wines while enjoying a snack or two, sat overlooking the Piazza Grande. The Contucci family have lived in Montepulciano since the 11th century and have been making wine since the Renaissance. We also got to walk through the maze of tunnels under the palazzo, where the wine is stored in huge wine barrels. It is amazing how far underground the tunnels go, and they are everywhere, even in the shops.

One thing we did forget to do today was have our daily gelato - and we were doing so well. I don’t think we could walk the steep street again for our gelato fix. Our afternoon siesta carried over to a night in and to be honest we were just too lazy to get dressed and venture out again. Probably a good thing for the diet.Lue lisää
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Comune di Montepulciano Tower Climb
15. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
We decided to start today with a climb to the top of the tower of Montepulciano’s Municipal building in the main square, Piazza Grande. This is still their working offices and we actually had to walk through their office and storage spaces to access the steps to the tower. Now that would never happen in Australia. We walked though all their city files dating back many years. It is so bizarre how relaxed they are over here.

So what did I learn today - do not wear a dress on a windy day, especially when climbing to the top of tower where it was blowing a gale. And two, I have discovered my fear of old stairs has increased causing a minor panic attack as we were climbing century old, crumbly, extremely narrow stairs. I was almost frozen halfway up. Problem is I love the views and am not afraid of heights, it is just the getting there that scares me to death.

The view from the top was spectacular and would have been even better had the skies not been so hazy and overcast. I am glad I managed to get to the top though.Lue lisää
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Tempio di San Biagio, Montepulciano
15. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
After surviving the steps for the tower climb, we decided to take the short 15 minute walk to the Tempio Di San Biagio, a 16th century Tuscan Renaissance church just outside the historic city centre. From the top of the tower it didn’t look like it was too far away and would be an easy walk. The exterior of this church is more impressive than the simple interior, especially compared to others we have seen, and to be honest I don’t think it was worth the walk. While the walk DOWN to the church was steep and not too stressful on the knees, the walk/crawl back up felt even steeper, and my knees were no longer communicating with me. They did not enjoy the LONG walk back up to town. As we passed by the cemetery I did wonder if that was where I was going to end up. I was too tired to even walk through the cemetery, and I love exploring those as much as I love checking out churches.

Once I had finally slowed the heart rate, wiped off the sweat and cleaned myself up a bit, we wandered a bit further (God, Montepulciano is a town of hills) and found a great place for lunch, Il Teatro Cucina Toscana, where I finally got to enjoy my first gnocchi of this trip. Accompanied with a glass or two of delicious Italian wine and followed by a gelato. I think my body may be forgiving me for what I did to it today and at least I feel like I earned my gelato.Lue lisää
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Pienza
16. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Today we awoke to stunning blue skies so headed out to the nearby town of Pienza. And wow - Pienza is Pretty with a capital P. It is a stunning UNESCO-listed town and is known as the first Renaissance town in Italy. It was the brainchild of Pope Pius II. While it may be small it certainly had a lot for us to see and love. The beautiful laneways were filled with potted plants and flowers in bloom, with beautifully staged window displays and shop fronts enticing us in. It is the perfect “strolling” town.

Being famous for its Pecorino Di Pienza cheese, the shops are filled with all the different types. It was quite overwhelming, so overwhelming in fact that I thought I had bought a small piece of cheese to have for dinner, only to discover it was Panforte. Next time it might be useful if I wear my glasses while I am shopping.

We started our morning with our favourite Italian breakfast, croissants, coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice, sat in the main square just watching the world go by.Lue lisää
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Pienza Cathedral
16. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Of course we checked out the Pienza Cathedral, Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta Pienza, and while it is a pretty church, the most fascinating part is that it is still standing. You can feel where the rear of the church has “dropped” and the cracks in the wall are not hard to miss. Knowing that Brad has recently offended the gods, I did not spend too much time standing in the rear of the church… just in case. Restoration work has been ongoing to prevent the church from further collapse and this was evident by the supports and documentation on display in the Church of San Giovanni, which is also known as the Crypt, as it sits under the Duomo. There was also a labyrinth under the church, which although it didn’t have much in it, explains why the Duomo above has started collapsing. It was all very interesting.

I think the most surprising and interesting place we visited today was the Diocesan Museum. Usually museums are overfilled with so many pieces that they become very overwhelming. This one was perfect and had some stunning pieces of ancient art and antiquities dating back to the 13th century. It was just enough and well-spaced out so we could appreciate each piece.Lue lisää
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La Vecchia Bottega, Pienza
16. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
To end our visit to Pienza we decided to enjoy a glass of wine and a meat and cheese board. Brad somehow managed to communicate our order in sign language (as very little English was spoken here) and we were very surprised with what we received, a platter of cheese, olives, spreads and more, under a “clothesline” of different meats. It was a very unique presentation, so much so passers-by kept asking if they could photograph our food. We should have charged them for each photo so they could contribute to our lunch, especially as it was some time before we could actually eat it. Thankfully it tasted as good as it looked and we somehow managed to eat most of it. Suffering from the meat sweats (there was a lot of meat), we decided to call it a day and head back to our apartment for our Italian siesta. It was a fantastic day playing tourist and getting to explore yet another beautiful town. Pienza is another town on my list to revisit as I think it would be the perfect town to enjoy some down time. We just loved it.Lue lisää
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Ristorante Degli Archi, Montepulciano
17. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
With the weather being overcast we decided to have a relaxing last day in Montepulciano. We enjoyed a last stroll through town, checked out a few of the shops, churches and wine cellars before having lunch at the very eccentric Ristorante Degli Archi, a restaurant that has been operating for 126 years under the one family.

With amazing views overlooking the gorgeous valley, the interior is just as interesting with its bright pink walls, mismatched furniture and decor items, and a very eclectic decorating style. It is a feast for the eyes. It was such a great experience with the owner being a very engaging man with his limited English. Once he found out we were Australian he went on to tell us about the famous Australian actors who had eaten there and even pulled out his phone to show us his photos. Among the past famous clientele were Russel Crowe, Cate Blanchett, Dustin Hoffman, Jack Nicolson, Muhammad Ali, Robert Patterson (for all those Twilight fans) and Sophia Loren, who the owner said was his girlfriend, but he couldn’t tell his wife.

He also schooled me on how to hold a wine glass and I almost got a smack on the wrist for doing it wrong. He was a brilliant host and added to our experience. And to make things even better our food was amazing. It was the perfect lunch for our last day here.Lue lisää
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Chiesa di Sant'Agostino, Montepulciano
17. syyskuuta 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
With lunch over we planned to wander a bit more but the rain started and it was freezing. Thankfully the Chiesa Di Sant’Agostino was open so we could duck inside to stay dry and warm up, and of course, have a look around - you know we can’t resist a church. Sant’Agostino is the oldest remaining church in Montepulciano and building began in 1285. With its weathered stone facade I was quite surprised by its interior. It is a very simple church and with the simplicity is a touch of elegance, until you start looking at some of the art and statues. There are some weird art and statue choices, and a nativity scene that takes up a stage in a side room that just seems out of place. The fairy lights and pile of cords and plugs really don’t add to the overall look. It is unusual to say the least.

On the high altar is a wooden crucifix attributed to Donatello and even that looked too modern against the elegant backdrop. With the Duomo of Montepulciano being closed for renovations, at least we got to see one church here in Montepulciano.Lue lisää
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