Portuguese Pamino 2023

Our evening in Faramello was quite enjoyable, although we were all ready for an early bed 🙄 and had bagged ourselves a small (doorless) room just for 4 on the second floor of the albergue. That was one of the reasons I wasn't supposed to book this albergue - the stairs! 😱🤣 But we passed a pleasant evening and were all tucked up in bed at stupid o'clock (something like 8.45pm!)
There was practically no snoring from our other dorm friends but then, at 4.30am, the Germans decided they were leaving 😱😨. Quite why they wanted to leave in the middle of the night, when there were only 15 more kilometres to walk, we couldn't work out! So our sleep was disturbed, and we woke again just before 6.00am to pack up and try to get to Santiago before noon.
Fortunately, it had started to lighten by the time we left so we were soon confidently on our way and found a small truckers café after 3km, so we had breakfasted and were back on track by 7.30am! The way led us through more woodland, farmland and small hamlets, and past what is thought to be the oldest cross on this particular route. I really can't describe the feeling of walking through ancient woodland with only birdsong for company 🥰🥰🥰, it's definitely beyond description!
With only 15km to go, we soon found ourselves on the outskirts of Santiago and surrounded by flats, offices and even the university (although I'm sure we were probably a little early to disturb the students😅). We still had a couple of hours to go before reaching Santiago but trudged on underneath motorways and through larger housing areas until we reached the long, straight road towards our final destination, the cathedral!
We stopped with just 2km to walk and enjoyed our first taste of Tarta de Santiago, which was gorgeous (although I reckon mine's better🙄🤣), before heading off on the final slog.
We were in good time for the Pilgrim's Mass at noon, so OurJan and I decided to register for our certificate of completion, or Compostela. We not only registered, but picked up our Compostelas and got to the cathedral for Mass, with time to spare!
Mass was in Spanish and OurJan was able to translate a few bits for me - the enduring love of Jesus, and the importance of sharing our faith with family, friends and workmates. We both went up for Communion and it was quite special, to feel a part of that massive Pilgrim family, even if we didn't understand everything that was said!
We returned to our places (standing room only!) and the 'Men in Red' appeared! These are the men who swing the Botafumeiro, and it only happens on 10 days each year, unless it's paid for privately (currently at a cost of €300!) We were really happy to have arrived on a Feast Day (organised by missing a rest day on our camino!) and it was certainly something to cherish!
Following Mass we found a spot for lunch. It took a while to arrive, but we had to remind ourselves we were in Spain, where everything happens 'mañana! We found ourselves sitting next to 3 Irish men, one with a ukulele. They were Christians from Cork and called themselves Soul Survivors, inviting us to their 'gig' at 10.00pm that evening. One of them was just short of his 90th birthday and put us to shame with his energy🤣. When they found out we were from Liverpool they gave OurJan and me a rendition of Liverpool Lou (Steve and Anne had made a sharp exit by this time!) followed by an Irish blessing. It was really special and they were a great laugh. No way we'll be down there at 10.00pm though 😱🤭😅.
After a few hours browsing the shops (and eating ice cream), a beer and an evening meal that included chips was called for. Then bed it was, ready for the bus to take us back to Porto tomorrow morning. We're spending a couple of nights there to rest our weary feet - maybe...🙄Okumaya devam et