Was heading for Dun Laoghaire but ended up in Scotland Read more
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  • Day 31

    Home Sweet Home

    June 29, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    At 06.30 Brian tried to drown me!

    He thought it would be a great idea to wash the mud from last night off the aft deck.
    A great idea but he forgot the hatch was open and I was sleeping below it, so I had an unexpected shower.

    With both of us now fully awake we decided to get going and we started the engine to lift the anchor.
    It's never a good idea to use the windlass without having the engine going as well, the batteries would not be happy.

    Surprisingly the anchor came up clean as I thought after last night that I'd be bringing up half the seabed with all that sticky mud. The chart was right after all, the bottom must have been sand.

    We set off at 07.15 and hoisted the sails once clear of the bay.
    Unfortunally the wind disappeared after an hour and on came the engine again.
    Two hours later the engine was off and the main was up but we kept the genny furled as it would have been smothered by the main as we were almost on a run.

    With the wind changing direction direction slightly we had to gybe to hold a course in the general direction of Cork and finally about 10 miles east of Roches Point we had to drop the main due to lack of wind and motored up to the entrance of the harbour where we were able to hoist sail again. Brian who had the helm, sailed us gentle into the harbour and up to East Ferry where we tied up at the marina at 16.15.

    The marina was full so George, the owner, could only allow us berth to unload the boat. Seeing that we were at the fuel berth we took the opportunity to fill the tank before we brought Eureka the final few meters up to the mooring, 31 days after I had left it.

    Home Sweet Home.
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  • Day 30

    A change of plan.

    June 28, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Brian of course was up and about early even before the skipper was even thinking about getting up.
    Eventually I moved and we both headed for the showers and then back to Eureka for breakfast.
    It was nice and sunny and warming up very nicely. All was looking good for our last day. We're hoping to be tied up in East Ferry this evening.

    We left the harbour at 10.00 and found outside that there was less wind there than in the shelter of the harbour.
    The forecast was for light Easterly winds near the coast between Dungarvan and Cork so I decided to stay offshore hoping they would be stronger winds away from the coast.

    We were more or less on a run which Eureka doesn't like in light winds so we had to make a course further south than we'd have liked in order to keep the sails full. In the afternoon the wind changed direction a little which allowed a more westerly course.
    Most of the time we were only making 3 to 4 knots but in the right general direction.

    At 15.30 I decided to close on the coast as we were about 15 miles off and checked our ETA for East Ferry.
    At the speed we were doing it was now going to be midnight if not later before we arrived so we decided to head instead for Youghal.
    The wind wasn't helping and the genny was getting smothered by the main on this point of sailing.

    I asked Brian how he was about getting back to Dublin and he had no problem adding a day onto the voyage so I decided to make for Dungarvan instead so that we'd have time for a run ashore for a pint or two.

    I had never been there before but knew it was shallow and we wouldn't get to the town's quays but saw from the sailing directions that there was a deep pool inside the entrance to the bay, off a pier near Ballynacourty, better know as the Gold Coast.

    We were now on a reach and had a nice sail into Dungarvan Bay dropping our sails before motoring in.
    We found the channel buoys which were quite small and slowly motored in following the sailing directions, found the pool and anchored off the pier at 19.40.

    We immediately blew up the dinghy, attached the engine and went ashore.
    We had to mind ourselves at the pier as children were jumping off the end and having great fun. We didn't want one landing on us. Luckily we were able to tie the dinghy a little future up the pier from them so we didn't interfere with their fun.

    We walked the short distance to the Gold Coast Hotel and eventually got our pints from a hot under the collar barman. It looked like he had a long day and was no longer in the mood to be of service.
    The sun was still strong and we sat outside soaking it in as it slowly quietened down a little as people headed home bringing their noisy kids with them.
    We ordered dinner and Brian insisted on me having desert. Oh, ok so!

    We headed back to the pier at 23.00 and found the tide was out.
    We carried the dinghy to the water but discovered that what we thought was sand was in fact mud, very sticky mud.
    We almost fell a few times trying to lift our feet out of the mud and took off our shoes before climbing out of the dinghy and tried to wash the sticky mud off our feet. We had a good laugh about the whole thing as we travelled out to Eureka. When we saw our shoes next morning, at least one pair were quietly retired.
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  • Day 29

    Finding Ciúnas

    June 27, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Brian was up first and headed for the showers while I sat in the cockpit watching the river flow by as I ate my breakfast.
    I later took my turn in the showers and we were ready to get going at 11.00.

    Typical! Nice bit of wind as we headed downriver but once we had room to play with the sails, the wind had almost disappeared.
    We sailed along doing about 3 knots for 2 to 3 hours. We were going to miss the tidal gates further along the coast unless we speeded up so we had to turn on the engine.

    As we approached Rosslare, the inbound Stena ferry crossed our bows about 4 miles distant. Shortly afterwards the 'Oscar Wilde' was beginning it's journey to France just as we about to cross the shipping lane.
    I kept an eye on her as we crossed the lane and increased speed to get fully across before she got too near. All was looking good and then she turned . . . . towards us!
    We increased speed again but she didn't get any closer than a mile and we slowly pulled away on slightly different courses.

    We turned west at Carnsore Point and the wind picked up at last. We unfurled the genny and motorsailed towards St. Patrick's Bridge between the Saltee Islands. The tide had turned against us and the currents were shaking Eureka from side to side as we approached the gap, just like it does in East Ferry.

    We furled the genny and soon after dropped the main as we headed north west towards Kilmore Quay.
    We hung fenders off both sides as we didn't know what side we'd be tied up.
    Once inside the harbour we saw we'd have to raft up and I picked a nice big yacht that looked like it wasn't going anywhere soon to tie onto. We were able to step ashore by 19.50.

    The harbour office was pointed out to us and we caught the Harbour Master just before he went home and handed over our life savings..
    We walked up the road to Keogh's pub for pints and food and both offerings were excellent.

    We headed back at closing time and had a wee drop of port for medicinal purposes before hitting the sack. The Jura whisky was staying sealed until I got home.

    Oh! . . . . Ciúnas??
    Well Ciúnas was my first yacht. She is a Splinter 21 and I bought her in East Ferry back in 1988. I wasn't living in Cobh at the time and I think my first visit to East Ferry was to view her.
    She then crossed the harbour to Drake's Pool until 1993 when I moved to Cobh and ended up back in East Ferry for a second time.

    At the end of the 1995 season I put her up for sale and she disappear, I believe to Kinsale for a while but I hadn't seen her since she was sold.
    There were two Splinters in Dun Laoghaire and Brian and I were surprised at how small they were now that we had got used to bigger boats.
    But as we walked up the marina towards the exit I saw another one with a blue hull, Ciúnas's was red and I said to Brian, "we haven't seen a Splinter for years and now we've seen three in the last few days, look she even has mushroom vents where Ciúnas had them".

    It slowly dawned on me that I had put those vents on Cíunas. I went around to the stern and saw the name Ciúnas was still there. It was MY Ciúnas.
    I left a message for the new owner on her and took a few photos. Amazing, twenty three years later and there she was.
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  • Day 28

    Two mates and a boat

    June 26, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another lovely hot morning. I chilled out around the house while Brian was out walking his dog.

    It was about 41 years ago that Brian took me out in his family's sailing dinghy in Monkstown, Co. Cork and got me hooked on sailing and off we were going again all these years later.

    Brian thought that it might be a good idea to visit the supermarket before heading to Dun Laoghaire. He was going to do the cooking onboard so who was I to interfere?

    At the marina we filled the water tanks and went to the fuel berth to fill up, then we waved goodbye to Brenda and headed out.
    We hoisted the main but the winds were very light so we headed south under engine without unfurling the genny.

    After three hours the wind increased and we were able to unfurl the genny and turn off the engine but it wasn't to last and after an hour or so the genny was furled again and the engine was back on. We tried to fool ourselves by leaving the main up but we reached Arklow without using it for its intended purpose, to drive the boat.

    We tied up at the last free berth on the pontoon in Arklow at 20.00 and headed ashore and just made it just in time for last orders in 'Christy's'.
    The staff were great and very understanding in feeding two hungry sailors when they should probably have been going home.

    We had two pints each before we headed back to Eureka where I had to put Brian to bed suffering from the latest case of fresh air sickness and I found I had a mild dose of it as well.
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  • Day 27

    A day off

    June 25, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    I didn't wake until the alarm was ringing in my ears at 08.30!
    I was meeting Tom for breakfast at 09.30 so I had to get move on.
    He was waiting for me at the marina reception and we headed towards Dalkey in his car on a scenic spin and a climb up to the obelisk on the top of Killiney Hill. The climb wasn't as bad as Tom described, luckily he was struggling just as much if not more than me by the time we got to the top.

    How with an appetite built up it was time to eat but the restaurant he was intending to bring me to was closed so it was back to his house where we had a bbq fry up. It tasted great as we sat in the sun chatting away.

    Tom dropped me back about 13.30 and I paid for my extra night on the marina, fixed the bilge pump and tidied the boat before Brian had a chance to give out about my lack of domestic skills.

    Once everything was shipshape I got the dart into the city before changing at Connelly station for the train out to Coolmine where Brian picked me up. Obviously he didn't trust me to find my way to his house, a five minute walk up the road.

    Back at Brian & Brenda's I had my second BBQ of the day and we were joined by my cousin Máire and her husband Noel who are also good friends of B & B.
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  • Day 26

    Dun Laoghaire and an unexpected surprise

    June 24, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Woke up at 06.15, had a quick look outside and went back to bed. Too chilly!
    I didn't go back to sleep so told myself not to waste the day and by 07.00 I was on deck and started going about the work of unhooking from civilisation, disconnecting shore power and untieing the ropes etc.

    I did say hello to the blond who stepped off the gin palace near me but was ignored. She was probable half asleep.
    A Frenchman stuck his head through the hatch of his yacht when I started the engine. I gave him a wave which was returned before he disappeared down below again. I cast off at 07.45.

    I maneuvered slowly away from the marina, took in the fenders and once out of the harbour I pointed the bow south and set Seóirse (George) the autopilot on a course. I sat back and picked up Paddy Barry's book 'So Far, So Good', I couldn't have said it better myself!!

    It was flat calm when I left but I was hoping I'd get a sea breeze as the land heated up and by 11.00 it obliged.
    I hoisted the sails and was soon making 4 knots heading SSW, not perfect but at least I had the tide with me.

    Later in the morning it was hot enough to change into my shorts which normally chases the sun away but today was an exception.

    By 13.30 speed has increased to just over 5 knots and a slight change in wind direction helped me steer a more southerly course and it looked like I'd make Howth Head without having to tack.

    Unfortunally off Rockabill the wind forced me future east so I tacked out away from the coast and motorsailed for 3 miles to get a bit of room and when I tacked back in I was able to sail past Howth Head where I furled the genny for greater visibility as I crossed the busy shipping lanes into Dublin port. Ulyssey and the Dublin Swift fast ferry were heading inbound.
    I motorsailed across the shipping channel and began sailing once south of them with stronger winds the rest of the journey to Dun Laoghaire.

    I tied up at 20.00, helped by a man in a 34 footer who was just about to head south himself. I returned the favour in helping him cast off.

    Tom Savage had visitors so couldn't meet for a drink so I headed ashore for dinner and a pint and on the way back rang Brian Shannon just to let him know where I was.
    We had a nice chat and five minutes after we had hung up, he rang me back to tell me he'd be joining me for the rest of the voyage to keep an eye on me! Also I was invited to stay with them tomorrow night.
    Now that I was closer to home, I was less homesick as the end was now in sight.
    This was my 27th night on Eureka and I was ready to try a berth on dry land again. I immediately took him up on the offer.

    Maeve, when I rang her was delighted I'd have company for the rest of the voyage and I headed back to Eureka (the other woman) to tell her about the unexpected change in plans.
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  • Day 25

    Sleepy Ardglass

    June 23, 2018 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    It was about 01.00 as I began to cross Belfast Lough which was very busy with two outbound ferries and one inbound, this time they were well lit. The cruise ship 'Marco Polo was also well lit as it headed north up the Irish Sea but that was well off to my port.

    It was beginning to get bright when I was passing Rigg Bank, just south of the lough but the traffic was not finished with me. I had to charge course to keep out of the way of a container ship heading north and there were also a few trawlers around just to keep things interesting.

    It was time to decide where I going to tie up.
    Ideally I'd like to have kept going until the late afternoon. Howth was still about 15 hours away. While it would still be light when I'd arrive, it was too far. Carlingford was another 10 hours but the entrance was only passable at the right state of tide and my timing would be wrong this time.
    So instead seeing I was beginning to feel a little tired, I decided cut the day short and to head for Ardglass which was about 4 hours away.

    It appeared that Ardglass was still asleep when I arrived but as I approached the marina I saw a couple sitting having breakfast in the cockpit of a nice wooden yacht and they interrupted their breakfast to assist me in tieing up at 08.00.
    It turn out he was Dutch and she was a Dub and they planned to head to Dublin later in the morning.

    Even though it was lovely and sunny even at that hour, I headed down below to get some zzzzz's and didn't wake until noon.

    I headed up to the office to report in, pay and have a shower before going for a walk.
    I found a nice restaurant called 'Blue Donkey' close to the marina and had a coffee and cake followed by a visit to the supermarket for milk and bread.

    Back on Eureka I sat in the sun and checked the tides and made a passage plan for tomorrow's journey south. I planned to make the next stop Dun Laoghaire.

    I cheated a bit on dinner. It was one of those pasta meals, just add water, then I had an early night before an early start tomorrow.
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  • Day 24

    An overnight to another country

    June 22, 2018, Inner Seas off the West Coast of Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    It was nice and calm this morning so I decided to delay my departure slightly and see if I could get bottle of whisky.
    My good friend Donal O'Driscoll would be distraught if he knew there wasn't a bottle of whiskey aboard Eureka. Port doesn't really do it for most sailors. Mind you it would have to be Irish.
    The distillery had been closed when I went ashore yesterday so fingers crossed for better luck this time.

    At 10.30 I went ashore and this time the open sign was up on the door.
    After tasting a few different samples , I bought a bottle of 'The Sound' which had only the barest hint of peat in the taste unlike many others Scottish whiskys . Unfortunally the bottle is the wrong shape for Eureka drinks cabinet but I wouldn't want to spoil the crew anyway. I'll bring it home for a tibble on special occasions. (It lasted to October 2023)

    Seeing that I was ashore and the weather was nice, I decided to walk along the shore by a terrace of houses and went as far as the cemetery which was a bit future than I expected.
    Why, I hear you ask? Just because it was signposted I wanted to be able to say I had a half decent looks around this part of Jura.
    I returned to the jetty, stopping off at the shop to get a few things and to pay for the mooring.

    Back onboard I got ready for sea and left the mooring at 13.40.
    Yes I know, I should have left at 12.00 but you should never rush these things.

    I hoisted the main before leaving the harbour and quickly saw that one of the batten cars was not attached to the mast. Back down came the sail as Eureka motored around in circles in the harbour and I soon had it back up again.
    Hoisting heavy sails more than once a day is a great way to keep fit.

    Once I was outside the harbour I unfurled the genny and picked up a nice breeze.
    I sailed down most of the Mull of Kintyre on a reach cutting through the water at 6 plus knots with at least another knot of tide doing my way.

    When I reached the traffic separation the only vessel in sight was a yacht sailing in the opposite direction to me and I quickly crossed to the Northern Ireland side of the channel.
    I left Kintyre behind by 19.00 and was almost at Glenarm at 22.00.
    I had already decided to keep going and hopefully do an overnight sail as I still felt rested and alert.
    Unfortunally around this time the wind died and I had to drop the sails and motor for the rest of the night.

    At midnight off Larne I was surprised by a ferry that left the harbour with very few lights.
    It was only when I noticed a few moving lights and a dark shadow against the background of all the lights ashore that I saw it for what it was. It crossed about two miles ahead of me. A bit close for comfort but I had been keeping a good lookout as I was expecting ferry traffic crossing to and from Scotland from Larne. It had been busy as I was heading north and I expecting the same on the way south.
    Normally ferry are lit up like Christmas trees, why this one was different is anybody's guess.
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  • Day 23

    There do be gales

    June 21, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    After hearing todays forecast I won't be leaving the shelter of Craighouse Harbour which was as expected, so no surprise.

    I spent the morning doing various bits and pieces as well as checking the tides for tomorrow. Basically it's a choice between midnight or midday.
    The wind is blowing 22 knots and seems to be increasing. I won't be going ashore anytime soon either, I'd hate to leave tomorrow without having set foot ashore but by 13.30 it was gusting almost 30 knots.

    I'm reading Paddy Barry's book 'So Far, So Good'. It's entertaining and a proper sailors book. Paddy was well known for his travels on his Galway Hooker 'St. Patrick' which unfortunally was wrecked in Glandore on the rocks just under the house where Maeve and I got married. We had nothing to do with it, I promise.

    Some boats that were moored in Craighouse overnight left early this morning, the rest of us are in no hurry to go anywhere.
    One boat did come in, obviously looking for shelter. It was well reefed when it arrived and the crew looked tired. Anyone who would want to go out in this is mad.

    In the late afternoon I went on deck to lower my flags and found it was too late for my Moody Owners Assoc, burgee which had shredded its tail.
    Strangely ten minutes later at about 17.50 the wind died down fairly quickly, I might get ashore after all.

    At 18.30 I got the dinghy ready and attached the outboard. I went ashore twice. Well, almost. The first time I got half ways there before I had to go back to get my bag and phone.
    Crews from the other boats seemed to be all going ashore at the same time. Cabin Fever?

    I went to the hotel and had dinner in the bar and got talking to the two gentlemen who were on a Contessa 32. One informed me that he had previously cruised to the west coast of Ireland.
    Another couple were touring on BMW's and were seasoned motorcyclists having been to South America and Nepal etc.
    I wasn't short of conversation but I had a long voyage tomorrow so I had to get back to the boat and finally made onboard by 23.00.

    I turned on the engine as the batteries needed charging and so did my phone as the 12v system wasn't working so I needed the inverter for mains electricity.
    I read for a while before shutting down everything and closing my eyes at midnight.
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  • Day 22

    Jura for whisky

    June 20, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I woke at 05.00 with the wind whistling in the rigging.
    I checked the wind speed indicator and it was reading much less than it sounded but even so I left out more chain just in case and went back to sleep.

    I got up at 07.00 and to see what the weather was like and had my breakfast as I checked.
    Now it seemed to be a Force 4 and the sun was trying to make an appearance but I decided with the present overcast weather and especially tomorrow's forecast to leave a visit to Iona for another time.
    I needed to find shelter for tomorrow and a stop at Iona would mean I'd not have enough time ashore to do justice to Columcille and might also be reaching a sheltered very late tonight. Add to that, I was also a bit worried that the wind might strengthen while I was ashore so I decided to go straight to Craighouse on Jura with its sheltered harbour.

    I brought the dinghy aboard and headed out into the sound at 08.40.
    A tall ship, the 'Royalist' was anchored off Iona.
    The wind was about 12 knots and I briefly had second thoughts about anchoring for a visit but the iffy forecast for tomorrow made up my mind and I kept going.

    There was a big reef to the south of the sound so had to head east before I could go south again. There was plenty of isolated rocks between there and Colonsay to keep my full attention on my navigation.

    I headed down the west side of Colonsay. I'd have preferred going to the east but I'd have been on a dead run and I was afraid of a gybe and the wind was now 16 - 18 knots.

    Once past Colonsay I headed ESE for the narrow Sound of Islay.
    I was now on a reach and I was having a great fast sail doing 6 - 7 knots but I also had 4 knots of a tide under me. Top reading on the plotter I think was 10.3 knots as I flew along shortening to distance to Craighouse as the wind continued to increase.

    I passed two distilleries on the coast of Islay, easily recognisable as they have their names painted in large lettering on the walls.
    Once out of the sound I turned NE towards Craighouse. I now had turned into the wind so I dropped the sails and motored the remaining short distance to the harbour where I picked up a visitor mooring on my second attempt at 16.00 and had a wee drop of port to celebrate an exhilarating sail.

    Once I had my breath back I put on the dinner and later spent the evening reading and listening to Johnny Creedon on longwave.
    The wind was whistling outside and the Eureka was pulling at the mooring but all was ok onboard.
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